Please allow me to show my ignorance.

Ed Rizk

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This Foveon thing boggles the mind. I have read a number of articles and endless posts on the forums on it. The IQ on some kinds of shots from the Sigma cameras is outstanding. Not so much on others. Many in this forum seem to shoot two brands for that reason. I am thinking of getting one of the DP cameras for that reason, but have numerous questions that I would greatly appreciate your help with.

Is it correct that the Foveon sensor is superior in bright light with bright colors?

Is shadow detail difficult with Sigma, or is that a matter of taste or my perception?

Correct me if I'm wrong. The Foveon sensor gets the correct color for each pixel. Bayer sensors interpret the color based on the adjoining pixels. The needed AA filter on Bayer sensors and the processing reduces the resolution on the Bayer images. The Foveon sensors count the pixels on each layer to get the MP which we use to compare resolution of various cameras. How would you compare the resolution of a Foveon sensor to that of a Bayer sensor?

I have read here that the Sigma RAW files are not compatible with Lightroom. Are they compatible with Aperture?

If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?

I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)

My Canon 60D makes off camera flash easy. I never thought I would use it, as I am an amateur and it seemed very technical. Once I tried it, it was easy, and I like the effects. Can off camera flash be used on the DP series cameras? How is it on the SLRs?

Well, the more I write about this conundrum, the more ignorant I sound, so I'm going to shut up now. Thank you in advance for your response any or all of these questions. Advice or verbal abuse is always welcome.
--
Ed Rizk
 
No problems with HDR. The SD15 lets you auto bracket 5 shots. The DP 3 shots. At low ISO settings the files are very clean and respond well to tone mapping and detail enhancement.

The resolution for the Foveon is about like a 10 mega pixel bayer but the contrast in the details is greater. There is a sharpness that is easy to become addicted to. The colors from the SD15 seem more accurate than most bayer cameras. Some won't agree with that but I have done a lot of tests against my Pentax K5 and I have found this to be true.

They like a lot of light and anything over 400 ISO they loses any special qualities.

I export everything from SPP software to TIFF and then work on the images in Lightroom. I export the images as JPG, delete the TIFF files and save the X3F files.
The cameras are easy to use with a very logical user interface.

I would recommend that you find a DP2 camera to find out if you like the images you can produce.
 
I'll show mine too, but I can give you some answers:
Is it correct that the Foveon sensor is superior in bright light with bright colors?
I think it's more correct to say that Sigmas are not particularly good in low light or high ISO conditions.
Is shadow detail difficult with Sigma, or is that a matter of taste or my perception?
I think it's more of a post-processing issue; the softweare used and the skills of the person doing the processing can be a significant factor.
Correct me if I'm wrong. The Foveon sensor gets the correct color for each pixel. Bayer sensors interpret the color based on the adjoining pixels. The needed AA filter on Bayer sensors and the processing reduces the resolution on the Bayer images. The Foveon sensors count the pixels on each layer to get the MP which we use to compare resolution of various cameras. How would you compare the resolution of a Foveon sensor to that of a Bayer sensor?
The general consensus is that multiplying the Sigma's 'groups of three' MP count by two gives the most accurate comparison. For example the SD-15 has 4.7 M 'groups of three' P; doubling that to 15MP gives you a 15MP Bayer equivalent. The 15 MP SD-1 is considered the equivalent of a 30 MP Bayer.
I have read here that the Sigma RAW files are not compatible with Lightroom. Are they compatible with Aperture?
Adobe's ACR supports the SD-9, -10, and -14; the SD-1 and -15 are not. I don't know about the DP series.
If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?
You can create a 'no compression' 8 or 16 bit TIFF with Sigma's SPP software. You can also use it to create .JPGs.
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
I think most of us have concluded that with Sigmas you don't need to create HDRs, you can get the same results with a single shot.
--
William Wilgus
 
Mostly Lurking wrote:
.....
I have read here that the Sigma RAW files are not compatible with Lightroom. Are they compatible with Aperture?
Adobe's ACR supports the SD-9, -10, and -14; the SD-1 and -15 are not. I don't know about the DP series.
.....

my DP1 and DP2 are supported by the recent ACR in PSElements v10 (not sure of the ACR version but it would be recent).

not sure of support for DP1/DP2/x/s whatever those 'newer' DP cameras are.

I prefer Sigma's SPP to ACR for RAW processing I've decided once again...

I have many DP1 and DP2 photos online at the flickr link below, separated out into camera-specific galleries.

FWIW I bought a Canon recently for low-light capabilities and more resolution than my SD14/DP1/DP2. I've run 2 brands for years... the Sigma as main, others Pentax and now Canon for low light (I define low light as anything over ISO800)

Best regards, Sandy
http://www.pbase.com/sandyfleischman (archival)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyfleischmann (current)
 
Actually I was in the same shoes last year. BTW I also own a Canon 7D which has the exact same sensor as your 60D.
Is it correct that the Foveon sensor is superior in bright light with bright colors?
It 's subjective. To my eyes, Foveon images are more film like. I wouldn't say it gives you accurate color or better color. However, the color and texture after post is often quite pleasing. You need to shoot RAW to appreciate the Foveon images. In broad day light, I often prefer the output of my DP2s than my EOS 7D, seriously.
Is shadow detail difficult with Sigma, or is that a matter of taste or my perception?
Yes, it 's a little especially if you need to bump up ISO. Green casts start showing up in shadows at ISO400. Sometimes they are hard to get rid of. Above ISO800, forget it, I shoot in black and white. BTW the Sigma is a great black and white camera for portraits. Love it.

On the hand, the Sigma is resilient to blown highlight. I often shoot at +0,7EV and still able to recover blown highlights in post. That helps the shadows.
Correct me if I'm wrong. The Foveon sensor gets the correct color for each pixel. Bayer sensors interpret the color based on the adjoining pixels. The needed AA filter on Bayer sensors and the processing reduces the resolution on the Bayer images. The Foveon sensors count the pixels on each layer to get the MP which we use to compare resolution of various cameras. How would you compare the resolution of a Foveon sensor to that of a Bayer sensor?
I am hearing the consensus is about 9-10 Mpixels. Resolution doesn't mean anything to me. I only care about resolving power of the whole system including the lens and the lack of AA filter. From what I see with my DP2s, it out-resolves my 8Mp EOS 20D with a EFS 60mm Macro which is my sharpest prime.

There is a white paper that talks about how Foveon comes up with the pixel number.
http://www.foveon.com/files/ABriefHistoryofPixel2.pdf
If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?
I have no experience with Aperture. I only use Sigma software. That 's good enough for me.
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
I usually use my DP2s for street photography, so HDR is not a big thing for me. Besides, I hate unnatural looking HDR. The whole reason why I got the DP2s because there 's no gimmick in the camera. It 's just a small box that captures great images. Simplicity is the virtue so to speak.
My Canon 60D makes off camera flash easy. I never thought I would use it, as I am an amateur and it seemed very technical. Once I tried it, it was easy, and I like the effects. Can off camera flash be used on the DP series cameras? How is it on the SLRs?
I think you could try pocket Wizard. The flash on my DP2s is kinda weak. However I don't use flash with my Sigma that often. When I need to flash, I usually bring my 7D + 580EX II with me. Different camera for different purpose. I also have a Fuji X10 for night and indoor events.

If the price is right, I may look into the DP1m which has the SD1 sensor and is supposed to be at least one stop better for higher ISO performance. Sometimes I 'd like to travel light. Carrying a big DSLR just draws too much attention.
 
No problems with HDR. The SD15 lets you auto bracket 5 shots. The DP 3 shots. At low ISO settings the files are very clean and respond well to tone mapping and detail enhancement.

The resolution for the Foveon is about like a 10 mega pixel bayer but the contrast in the details is greater. There is a sharpness that is easy to become addicted to. The colors from the SD15 seem more accurate than most bayer cameras. Some won't agree with that but I have done a lot of tests against my Pentax K5 and I have found this to be true.

They like a lot of light and anything over 400 ISO they loses any special qualities.

I export everything from SPP software to TIFF and then work on the images in Lightroom. I export the images as JPG, delete the TIFF files and save the X3F files.
The cameras are easy to use with a very logical user interface.

I would recommend that you find a DP2 camera to find out if you like the images you can produce.
Thanks, Guzz. I like my Canon least in bright light, so the DP could be a nice compliment to it. I know the s and m have different sensors, but is there any difference in the 1 and 2 other than the lens?
--
Ed Rizk
 
Thanks, William, I have been lurking a lot too.
--
Ed Rizk
 
Thanks, Sandy.
I have many DP1 and DP2 photos online at the flickr link below, separated out into camera-specific galleries.
Great architectural shots! Architecture and landscapes are most important to me since I sell architecture and landscapes.
FWIW I bought a Canon recently for low-light capabilities and more resolution than my SD14/DP1/DP2. I've run 2 brands for years... the Sigma as main, others Pentax and now Canon for low light (I define low light as anything over ISO800)
Interesting. Pentax then Canon seem to be the top second brand for Sigmanites.
--
Ed Rizk
 
This Foveon thing boggles the mind. I have read a number of articles and endless posts on the forums on it. The IQ on some kinds of shots from the Sigma cameras is outstanding. Not so much on others. Many in this forum seem to shoot two brands for that reason. I am thinking of getting one of the DP cameras for that reason, but have numerous questions that I would greatly appreciate your help with.

Is it correct that the Foveon sensor is superior in bright light with bright colors?
I wouldn't say that exactly, I would say it fares best in outdoor light. Colors do not have to be especially bright, as the cameras are great at capturing really small variations of color. Twilight shots can be amazing.

Here's an example of both points in action:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/5411381793/in/set-72157625963963490



That is early morning pre-dawn light, eight seconds.
Is shadow detail difficult with Sigma, or is that a matter of taste or my perception?
I think because it's so easy to pull up shadows people forget to expose to the right. I am guilty of that a lot. I think it's easier to get details out of shadows than most other cameras I have seen, which to me really seem to block up shadows (though some of that is probably also people preferring to heavily increase contrast in editing).
Correct me if I'm wrong. The Foveon sensor gets the correct color for each pixel. Bayer sensors interpret the color based on the adjoining pixels. The needed AA filter on Bayer sensors and the processing reduces the resolution on the Bayer images. The Foveon sensors count the pixels on each layer to get the MP which we use to compare resolution of various cameras. How would you compare the resolution of a Foveon sensor to that of a Bayer sensor?
The way to think about it is really this: variability. Bayer sensors by design, have varying "real" resolution depending on scene color. A part that is is all red will have substantially lower resolution than another part with more mixed colors.

Just in case you have not read it, this is a good reference to the effect:

http://www.ddisoftware.com/sd14-5d/
I have read here that the Sigma RAW files are not compatible with Lightroom. Are they compatible with Aperture?
Sadly no. I think at some point this year we'll see Lightroom support again for the newer Sigma cameras (that is wholly speculation).
If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?
I use Aperture very heavily, it's my primary sorting/editing environment.

The way I used to work is, I would batch export all my files using SPP (select all, tell it to export with zero adjustments) into 16-bit TIFF files, importing those into Aperture. I would then proceed to edit and weed out stuff in Aperture, export the master TIFF files for all images I did not like into a folder where I would then delete them - leaving the previews around and making it easy to simply re-generate a TIFF file as needed from the original X3F ( I never ever delete an X3F file).

However, I'm thinking about switching into an alternate workflow. Because the JPG output from the SD-1 is decent, I am planning to try using that as a first cut, shooting all RAW+JPG and importing the JPG into Aperture. Then the few images I really love, I would go back into SPP and save out the ones that really matter. That will save a lot of processing time and space, and also let me customize the noise reduction settings per shot more easily (a feature that was not really there in the same way for earlier cameras).
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
I think it's because there is a lot of dynamic range with the camera, so a lot of times with fill light we can get by without using HDR.

I don't like the "overdone" HDR but I am not against it wholly, and have tried to use it from time to time... I find few cases where it seems to work out really well though. There always seems to be some really annoying artifact from the conversion.
My Canon 60D makes off camera flash easy. I never thought I would use it, as I am an amateur and it seemed very technical. Once I tried it, it was easy, and I like the effects. Can off camera flash be used on the DP series cameras? How is it on the SLRs?
Well, you can use something like a pocket wizard to trigger remote flashes but if you meant TTL, I don't think the DP-M cameras will support that (the current ones do not as far as I know). The DSLR will use communicate and fire an off camera flash in TTL but the system is not as advanced as Canon or Nikon offer.
Well, the more I write about this conundrum, the more ignorant I sound, so I'm going to shut up now. Thank you in advance for your response any or all of these questions. Advice or verbal abuse is always welcome.
I thought you had a lot of great questions. If you have any followups for me please ask.

--
---> Kendall
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home
 
tourtrophy wrote:
Thanks, Tour.
It 's subjective. To my eyes, Foveon images are more film like. I wouldn't say it gives you accurate color or better color. However, the color and texture after post is often quite pleasing. You need to shoot RAW to appreciate the Foveon images. In broad day light, I often prefer the output of my DP2s than my EOS 7D, seriously.
That is what I've seen in looking at pics here and why I'm thinking of the Sigma.
BTW the Sigma is a great black and white camera for portraits. Love it.
That makes sense. Each pixel would get the full range of tones. I haven't done much B&W since film. I never liked B&W prints from color film, because color film didn't have the DR of B&W. I have seen some good conversions (mostly in digital). I guess it looks good if the DR of the scene is less than that of the sensor (or film for that matter).
On the hand, the Sigma is resilient to blown highlight. I often shoot at +0,7EV and still able to recover blown highlights in post. That helps the shadows.
That's how the pics posted here look to me. I hate blown highlights and underexpose all the time to avoid them.
I hate unnatural looking HDR.
I like it either subtile enough to look natural of sufficiently overdone to look surreal.
My Canon 60D makes off camera flash easy. I never thought I would use it, as I am an amateur and it seemed very technical. Once I tried it, it was easy, and I like the effects. Can off camera flash be used on the DP series cameras? How is it on the SLRs?
I think you could try pocket Wizard.
Once the 60D and 580 are set to "master/slave" mode, you can just put the camera on P and shoot it like your first P&S, and better than half of the shots will be well exposed and lit. All you have to worry about is the angle of the light and the framing of the shot. It's some kind of voodoo magic. Is the Pocket Wizard magic too?

I originally got my 580 just for bounce and the power to take flash shots across the room, as I did with film. I accidentally discovered the "off camera flash idiot mode" because I always read the manuals, which, I guess, makes me a metrosexual.

--
Ed Rizk
 
Thanks, Kendall.
Twilight shots can be amazing.

Here's an example of both points in action:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/5411381793/in/set-72157625963963490
Great low light shots! Definitely not typical of what I've seen in my short bit of research on Sigmas. Were they all tripod, low ISO shots?
If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?
I use Aperture very heavily, it's my primary sorting/editing environment.
Aperture rocks. Photoshop (Elements at least) is too cryptic for me.
( I never ever delete an X3F file).
I have to delete some of mine. What if someone hacked into my system and found them? They could blackmail me with my bad photographs.
However, I'm thinking about switching into an alternate workflow. Because the JPG output from the SD-1 is decent, I am planning to try using that as a first cut, shooting all RAW+JPG and importing the JPG into Aperture. Then the few images I really love, I would go back into SPP and save out the ones that really matter. That will save a lot of processing time and space, and also let me customize the noise reduction settings per shot more easily (a feature that was not really there in the same way for earlier cameras).
That sounds like an efficient workflow for any camera with a RAW file that was unreadable to Aperture.
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
I think it's because there is a lot of dynamic range with the camera, so a lot of times with fill light we can get by without using HDR.
I thought I had read that the Foveon sensor had less dynamic range. Your shots would suggest otherwise, though.
--
Ed Rizk
 
Thanks, Kendall.
Twilight shots can be amazing.

Here's an example of both points in action:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/5411381793/in/set-72157625963963490
Great low light shots! Definitely not typical of what I've seen in my short bit of research on Sigmas. Were they all tripod, low ISO shots?
Most of them, yes... in scenic stuff I prefer to leave the ISO really low. The SD-1 can hold really fine detail even at ISO 200 (possibly even 400) though so you have more latitude along those lines.
I have to delete some of mine. What if someone hacked into my system and found them? They could blackmail me with my bad photographs.
My bad shots are so bad they would hurt themselves much worse just looking at them. I think of them as booby-traps for the mind.
That sounds like an efficient workflow for any camera with a RAW file that was unreadable to Aperture.
Well any camera that does JPG+RAW, which previous cameras did not do for a while... but also JPG output from previous cameras was not a great judge of final detail, I think the SD-1 has a better JPG engine in that regard.

I am still not sure how well it will work out as I really like being able to see the final level of detail as soon as possible.
I think it's because there is a lot of dynamic range with the camera, so a lot of times with fill light we can get by without using HDR.
I thought I had read that the Foveon sensor had less dynamic range. Your shots would suggest otherwise, though.
The Foveon cameras have always had a good deal of dynamic range to offer. Even just looking across a large number of random shots on Flickr from any given camera can show that if you look at shadow details.

pbase is another really good place to look for Foveon images as a lot of us traditionally have posted there (not as much lately though, it's pretty expensive to host images there compared to other places).

--
---> Kendall
http://www.flickr.com/photos/kigiphoto/
http://www.pbase.com/kgelner
http://www.pbase.com/sigmadslr/user_home
 
I am only using LightRoom to process my Sigmaphotos. It is prepared for DP1, DP2 and SD14, but not SD15. Yet it opens SD15 and I have no problems processing the files. The WB is always equal, but there is not problem adjusting the WB in LR. But I suppose the SD1 can not be processed in LR and that is a shame.

--
My photos:
http://www.arnemarcophotos.com/
 
Thanks, Sandy.
I have many DP1 and DP2 photos online at the flickr link below, separated out into camera-specific galleries.
Great architectural shots! Architecture and landscapes are most important to me since I sell architecture and landscapes.
do you sell to agencies or directly to clients? one concern some SDx/DPx users have is that some agencies don't think the X3F RAWs are large enough! although the RAW can be printed quite large, the RAWs are smaller than what's considered by some agencies as normal... Canon and Nikon I guess.
FWIW I bought a Canon recently for low-light capabilities and more resolution than my SD14/DP1/DP2. I've run 2 brands for years... the Sigma as main, others Pentax and now Canon for low light (I define low light as anything over ISO800)
Interesting. Pentax then Canon seem to be the top second brand for Sigmanites.
I gave away the Pentax K20D and lenses to son-in-law. I'd judge Canon color and general output as 'better'... plus the resolution of the 5DII is visibly higher than my SD/DP cameras and Pentax K20D.

Best regards, Sandy

http://www.pbase.com/sandyfleischman (archival) http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyfleischmann (current)
 
I have read here that the Sigma RAW files are not compatible with Lightroom. Are they compatible with Aperture?

If they are not compatible with Aperture, do you create a TIFF with as much detail as possible with the Sigma software, or do all your global manipulation in the Sigma software and convert to JPEG?
I use Aperture, and not Lightroom. I export 16-bit TIFFs from SPP in-batch, usually with no processing. I then import them into Aperture. Works for me.
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
The lack of HDR, I think it's more a personal preference among the posters here. Me, personally, I love HDR:



http://scottag.zenfolio.com/newyorkcity/eab234e5
My Canon 60D makes off camera flash easy. I never thought I would use it, as I am an amateur and it seemed very technical. Once I tried it, it was easy, and I like the effects. Can off camera flash be used on the DP series cameras? How is it on the SLRs?
I mainly use Cactus-type (dumb) triggers with my SD15, but I've used optical TTL in the past and it's worked fine. Wireless on the Canon is optical similar to the SD cameras, so the experience should be similar.

-Scott

--
http://www.lightriverphoto.com
http://www.flickriver.com/photos/scottalangreiff/popular-interesting/
 
That sounds like an efficient workflow for any camera with a RAW file that was unreadable to Aperture.
Well any camera that does JPG+RAW, which previous cameras did not do for a while... but also JPG output from previous cameras was not a great judge of final detail, I think the SD-1 has a better JPG engine in that regard.

I am still not sure how well it will work out as I really like being able to see the final level of detail as soon as possible.
Let me know how it works out. I am thinking it might be a good strategy for even my Canon. I could keep the RAW files on an external drive but still be able to see all my shots on Aperture. I have finally filled up my hard drive, moved my old stuff to an external drive, and filled it up again.
--
Ed Rizk
 
Thanks, Sandy.
I have many DP1 and DP2 photos online at the flickr link below, separated out into camera-specific galleries.
Great architectural shots! Architecture and landscapes are most important to me since I sell architecture and landscapes.
do you sell to agencies or directly to clients? one concern some SDx/DPx users have is that some agencies don't think the X3F RAWs are large enough! although the RAW can be printed quite large, the RAWs are smaller than what's considered by some agencies as normal... Canon and Nikon I guess.
Sorry I wasn't clear. I sell the architecture and landscapes themselves. I give the pictures away. I am in commercial real estate, mostly land and retail. I use the architectural and landscape shots in promotional material to give prospects. I also give prints to landlords and builders (if they have decent properties to shoot) as closing gifts and electronic files to retail tenants as lease signing gifts.

Last year, I did have one prospect buy my snaps of his property. If I actually get out of the car to look at a deal, I try to take good enough pics that I can go from the client's office straight to generating marketing materials. As I visit the site for showings or to put up signs, I keep taking pics to improve my marketing materials. Anyway one prospect didn't give me the listing, but he offered me $200 for my pictures.

The photography has been so much more fun than the rest of my tasks, that I have spent a lot of time and money on it. Oddly enough, in my off time I still shoot mostly architecturals and landscapes. Some of my friends have suggested I make a business of my photography, but you never know if they really like the pics or just don't want the competition for the deals.

I have two pros as friends and read these forums quite a bit, so I know the business of photography is just as hard as anything else. Besides, I don't know if it would be as much fun if I had to make a living at it. I might try selling some of my prints of local landmarks at some point, though.
--
Ed Rizk
 
I don't see any HDR images on the Sigma forum. Is that because you are all purists, or is there a problem with using HDR with Sigma cameras? (Yes, I am one of those lunatics who likes HDR, but not exclusively)
The lack of HDR, I think it's more a personal preference among the posters here. Me, personally, I love HDR:
Great cityscape, Scot. Thanks for sharing. I'll bet there are a lot of closet HDR fans on the forums who are afraid to anger the multitude of purists. I am accustomed to verbal abuse, being in the real estate business, so it doesn't bother me.

One reason I am looking at the Sigmas is I think the crazy colors from the Foveon sensors would compliment the crazy colors I like form Photomatix.













What do you think?
--
Ed Rizk
 
WOA! Thats colorful.

I really like the first and the last one.

Photography? Who cares!

And I liked your galleries. You have got some style.

--
Roland

support http://www.openraw.org/
(Sleeping - so the need to support it is even higher)

X3F tools : http://www.proxel.se/x3f.html
 
They're very nice, Ed. If you enjoy HDR and it suits your purposes there's no shame in using it. I cas see that it would be very useful for art, but I'm not really into turning my photos into art. (Perhaps that indicates that I'm not a very good artist?)

Thanks for sharing your art with us!
--
William Wilgus
 

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