D7000 disappointment

Hi.

About the large focusing points....

I don't think that's the problem. I tested at single point, and 9 points. Used the AF-On button for focusing with AF-C.

If it means anything I have had several digital bodies, use a 4x5 Wista and have been actively using Nikon gear since the F2. I'm very happy with my experiences with Nikon.

By training I'm an engineer and statistician, so I've attempted to find the cause of my problems both systematic as well as trial and error methods.

I'm not saying I can't get good images. It's the camera is just as consistent as I would expect.

Thanks for the thoughts.
--
ssjackson
Single and 9 points, AF-S vs. AF-C, using the AF-ON technique, none of that matters. The big focus points will stills play a role, regardless of those settings.

Too many people here take Ray Soares' advice thread(s) on how to set up and shoot the camera as LITERAL, and the ONLY way to go. NOT true. I use some things similar, many different.

People: you don't HAVE TO use AF-C, AF-ON, etc to get great shots out of the D7000!
 
I would expect in a reasonable system that the viewfinder and liveview should be practically the same. The word practically means just that. It doesn't have to be perfect, but I should the focus should be reasonably close enough that what you focus on is indeed in focus.
No. The two use COMPLETELY different systems to acquire (or not) focus.
 
Hi.

Not a troll post at all. Just a bit of a frustrated D7000 user. But I guess if one complains, one needs to demonstrate why the complaint.

I originally bought it to give to my daughter who is in the US Navy and was going on deployment for 7 months. She wanted to use my D200, which she had been using, but I thought the D7000 would be the better ticket.

To make a long story short, she didn't take either one. I took the D7000 to India for a month along with the D300. It was there I experienced the first round of focusing issues with the D7000.

Here's the India set. A mixture of D300 and D7000 images..
http://www.ssj-photoimages.com/Travel/India

The first thing I noticed with the D7000 was I had to use liveview to get images that were in focus.

When I returned home I did a series of tests that indicated a problem with the 16-85. The fine tuning needed more than a -18 adjustment, which in my book is just way too much. So the camera went back for the first time.

After Nikon 'calibrated' it, I didn't have a chance for a month to do much with it. The 16-85 fine tuning requirement (at 85 mm) was -12. A bit of an improvement, but when I tried using the camera it was again a hit and miss thing. It wasn't technique, handholding with liveview would always give a good focused image.

So the camera went back again.

Upon that return, decided to purchase and use the Spyder. In addition somewhere in all these posts, someone mentioned the light temperature may have some influence. Crazy I know, but in my case I was suspicious. I had fine tuned in my usual way at night in my office. Worked with the D300, so there was no reason to be suspicious of it not working with the D7000. However, in reviewing the pictures, I noticed that the images I took after fine tuning, and which were taken in tungsten, were in focus. But the daylight pictures were where I found the inconsistency. Some good, some not so good.

So based on that bit of data, I proceeded to test as described.

I hope that helps. And yes, I will post some pictures.

Thanks
Steve
--
ssjackson
 
I understand they use two completely different systems. I know how each works. But a reasonable man would expect that both would give reasonably the same focus points. Note I did not say identical.
Thanks.
--
ssjackson
 
Hi again.

Seems we are both commenting past each other and I don't want to do that because I may one of your points.

I'm listening. Please clarify about 'big' focus points.

Thanks.
Steve
--
ssjackson
 
I'm starting to think I maybe should have looked for a lightly used D700 instead for any number of different reasons not relevant to this thread.

David G.
David that's exactly what I did... recently sold my D7000 and bought a lightly used D700 and omg what an eye opener that was (!). The arrival of D800 is the greatest that could ever happen to us DX folk dying to get into FX, snatch up one of those used D700s you won't regret it one bit, completely diffferent league. The D7000 may be great, but the D700 is wowowowwow! IQ is phenomenal!
It's also a wowowowow price difference. It's double the price. Your not getting double the camera.
 
I'm starting to think I maybe should have looked for a lightly used D700 instead for any number of different reasons not relevant to this thread.

David G.
David that's exactly what I did... recently sold my D7000 and bought a lightly used D700 and omg what an eye opener that was (!). The arrival of D800 is the greatest that could ever happen to us DX folk dying to get into FX, snatch up one of those used D700s you won't regret it one bit, completely diffferent league. The D7000 may be great, but the D700 is wowowowwow! IQ is phenomenal!
It's also a wowowowow price difference. It's double the price. Your not getting double the camera.
"You're", not "your".
 
Hi again.

Seems we are both commenting past each other and I don't want to do that because I may one of your points.

I'm listening. Please clarify about 'big' focus points.

Thanks.
Steve
--
ssjackson
I don't have a way to show you graphically here, but if you search this forum, one or more people (maybe Mako?) have "mapped out" the focus points on the D7K, with a contrast target background.

As an example, each individual focus point on the D7K is much larger than those on my D300 or D80. Each point on the D7K almost touches its neighboring points. This is GREAT for tracking motion, because it transfers more smoothly point to point (my theory), but can make grabbing initial focus of small, low-contrast or "busy" targets (like small birds in lots of brush) more difficult.

I, personally, believe this is MUCH of what has caused people to think they have back-focus or focus problems. It took me some time to adapt to the D7K, coming from the D300, but it's been WELL worth it. You're welcome to look at my gallery and tell me if you agree!
 
Okay, thanks. I didn't know that about the points being big enough to touch each other.

I'll have to think about that and how it could affect the testing I did. In the meantime I'm going to take a the NEF's from my testing (16-85) and post them here.

It may be later tonight.

Thanks
Steve
 
Okay, thanks. I didn't know that about the points being big enough to touch each other.

I'll have to think about that and how it could affect the testing I did. In the meantime I'm going to take a the NEF's from my testing (16-85) and post them here.

It may be later tonight.

Thanks
Steve
ALMOST touch each other. But it goes deeper than that. Bottom line is that until you learn the "feel" of the focus points, they may grab contrasty edges that you didn't intend them to, because of their sheer size.
 
Well, see it's like this. I was given my first camera in 1957 and after that made photography an on and off hobby, when in the 90's I turned it into a much more serious venture and started a business using my camera gear. Between about mid 1980 to date you can imagine that I've managed to own a few different cameras. Around the year 2000 I tried digital, mixing digital with film shots at weddings and went all digital in 2002. Since then and especially more recently, I've come to the conclusion that just about any DSLR made since the Fuji S2 can take beautiful portrait photos and many can take nice landscapes and much is up to the operator and also post processing skills. However, I've also learned in all my collected years, that there are just some cameras that fit you like and glove and you just want to be out shooting them. Others maybe not quite the same feel and others you would just as soon not bother picking up after the first try.

That said, I've certainly had my favorites, to include the Mamiya C220F, believe it or not, a favorite over the 330F. A little RF 35 rangefinder comes to mind, just wanted to be shooting it. My RB 67 for a tripod portrait and landscape camera but still not over and above that 220F ( I just loved to have that 220F along , in the car , in my hands in a camera bag or on a tripod). A little Minolta Autocord TLR comes to mind, loved to shoot scenics with it. And my D70 Nikon. Of all my DSLRs, that D70 still feels the best in the hand, followed next equal share by the Fuji S2 and Nikon D100 ( loved the D100 for wedding receptions and scenics incidentally, it was my number one choice for wedding receptions coupled to the Quantum Qflash, hell I'd shoot a reception with that rig tomorrow !). The D7000 just doesn't have that same feel and non of these have the FX sensor that will allow me to keep my studio door shut with a 100mm. lens on it ( I do portraits with a combo of lenses, one of which that is important to me is the 70-200VR1) .

I like 16MP, but don't need 16 MP, much less the 36MP of the new D800. I shoot portrait photos of families, and High Schoolers. You don't need every wart popping off the skin in a 16x20 canvas print and school shots are 4x6, 4x5 and maybe 8x10 if you sell that package. 16x20 or 16x24 is about my largest print size. The very very most popular print size for RC paper is still 5x7. But you will never never capture the same feel with DX that you can with FX in a given limited space. Never, you can make great photos, you can do stupendous work, your clients can love the work and do love the work but if that element ( of 100mm is) is missing for me and the body isn't quite a fit for me anyway, then it's time to at least allow myself to look around. No ?

It boils down to an aesthetic appeal in the images that I want or would like and a camera feel in the hand that I may enjoy more. Which reminds me of the Pentax 645 I forgot to mention above !!!!!!

Kindest regards,
David G.
It's also a wowowowow price difference. It's double the price. Your not getting double the camera.
 
Hi.

About the large focusing points....

I don't think that's the problem. I tested at single point, and 9 points. Used the AF-On button for focusing with AF-C.

If it means anything I have had several digital bodies, use a 4x5 Wista and have been actively using Nikon gear since the F2. I'm very happy with my experiences with Nikon.

By training I'm an engineer and statistician, so I've attempted to find the cause of my problems both systematic as well as trial and error methods.

I'm not saying I can't get good images. It's the camera is just as consistent as I would expect.

Thanks for the thoughts.
--
ssjackson
Single and 9 points, AF-S vs. AF-C, using the AF-ON technique, none of that matters. The big focus points will stills play a role, regardless of those settings.

Too many people here take Ray Soares' advice thread(s) on how to set up and shoot the camera as LITERAL, and the ONLY way to go. NOT true. I use some things similar, many different.

People: you don't HAVE TO use AF-C, AF-ON, etc to get great shots out of the D7000!
Well said I think...People really need to spend more time on shot disaplin as well.
From Hogan"

" Anyone opting for a Dxxxx who wants it to achieve the image quality it's capable of needs to:

1. Use good shot discipline.

2. Retire the inexpensive lenses they own that aren't up to the job.

3. Understand where diffraction begins to steal back acuity.

4. Learn how to focus accurately."


http://www.bythom.com/rightpixels.htm
http://www.bythom.com/discipline.htm
 
Hi again.

Seems we are both commenting past each other and I don't want to do that because I may one of your points.

I'm listening. Please clarify about 'big' focus points.

Thanks.
Steve
--
ssjackson
I don't have a way to show you graphically here, but if you search this forum, one or more people (maybe Mako?) have "mapped out" the focus points on the D7K, with a contrast target background.

As an example, each individual focus point on the D7K is much larger than those on my D300 or D80. Each point on the D7K almost touches its neighboring points. This is GREAT for tracking motion, because it transfers more smoothly point to point (my theory), but can make grabbing initial focus of small, low-contrast or "busy" targets (like small birds in lots of brush) more difficult.

I, personally, believe this is MUCH of what has caused people to think they have back-focus or focus problems. It took me some time to adapt to the D7K, coming from the D300, but it's been WELL worth it. You're welcome to look at my gallery and tell me if you agree!
Here is the AF sensor arrays (blue) layered on top of the Viewfinder focus boxes





It's to scale and pretty accurate. Can be layered on top of any OOC D7000 pic to see where the AF arrays FOV fell when the pic was taken (approximately).
 
Here's the India set. A mixture of D300 and D7000 images..
http://www.ssj-photoimages.com/Travel/India
Very Nice pictures. It looks like the D7000 pics may have benifited from a diffrent AF-Area mode, but they still look good
Upon that return, decided to purchase and use the Spyder. In addition somewhere in all these posts, someone mentioned the light temperature may have some influence. Crazy I know, but in my case I was suspicious. I had fine tuned in my usual way at night in my office. Worked with the D300, so there was no reason to be suspicious of it not working with the D7000.
Bad assumption. AF-Fine tune under artificial light at close distance can be problematic...especially with the Muti-Cam 4800dx AF unit.
However, in reviewing the pictures, I noticed that the images I took after fine tuning, and which were taken in tungsten, were in focus. But the daylight pictures were where I found the inconsistency. Some good, some not so good.
That's actually what I would expect with zooms fine tuned in that way.
 
+1

the D70 was my first dlsr and omg was that a mindblowing experience or what?...loved that 1/500s X-sync! Granted it was a little harsh with highlights ( the D50 eventually fixed that problem ) but the colors and sharpness were exquisite! A Nikon classic to be sure, and one that got Canon shaking just a little bit back then! lol
Well, see it's like this. I was given my first camera in 1957 and after that made photography an on and off hobby, when in the 90's I turned it into a much more serious venture and started a business using my camera gear. Between about mid 1980 to date you can imagine that I've managed to own a few different cameras. Around the year 2000 I tried digital, mixing digital with film shots at weddings and went all digital in 2002. Since then and especially more recently, I've come to the conclusion that just about any DSLR made since the Fuji S2 can take beautiful portrait photos and many can take nice landscapes and much is up to the operator and also post processing skills. However, I've also learned in all my collected years, that there are just some cameras that fit you like and glove and you just want to be out shooting them. Others maybe not quite the same feel and others you would just as soon not bother picking up after the first try.

That said, I've certainly had my favorites, to include the Mamiya C220F, believe it or not, a favorite over the 330F. A little RF 35 rangefinder comes to mind, just wanted to be shooting it. My RB 67 for a tripod portrait and landscape camera but still not over and above that 220F ( I just loved to have that 220F along , in the car , in my hands in a camera bag or on a tripod). A little Minolta Autocord TLR comes to mind, loved to shoot scenics with it. And my D70 Nikon. Of all my DSLRs, that D70 still feels the best in the hand, followed next equal share by the Fuji S2 and Nikon D100 ( loved the D100 for wedding receptions and scenics incidentally, it was my number one choice for wedding receptions coupled to the Quantum Qflash, hell I'd shoot a reception with that rig tomorrow !). The D7000 just doesn't have that same feel and non of these have the FX sensor that will allow me to keep my studio door shut with a 100mm. lens on it ( I do portraits with a combo of lenses, one of which that is important to me is the 70-200VR1) .

I like 16MP, but don't need 16 MP, much less the 36MP of the new D800. I shoot portrait photos of families, and High Schoolers. You don't need every wart popping off the skin in a 16x20 canvas print and school shots are 4x6, 4x5 and maybe 8x10 if you sell that package. 16x20 or 16x24 is about my largest print size. The very very most popular print size for RC paper is still 5x7. But you will never never capture the same feel with DX that you can with FX in a given limited space. Never, you can make great photos, you can do stupendous work, your clients can love the work and do love the work but if that element ( of 100mm is) is missing for me and the body isn't quite a fit for me anyway, then it's time to at least allow myself to look around. No ?

It boils down to an aesthetic appeal in the images that I want or would like and a camera feel in the hand that I may enjoy more. Which reminds me of the Pentax 645 I forgot to mention above !!!!!!

Kindest regards,
David G.
It's also a wowowowow price difference. It's double the price. Your not getting double the camera.
 
It's also a wowowowow price difference. It's double the price. Your not getting double the camera.
oh really? just in the better IQ with all my lenses I'm getting double the value... those super clean high isos let me shoot all my lenses in a way I never could have before, in addition to giving me improved IQ when I do!
 
But, if you look around, MANY "pro" wildlife shooters shoot DX a good portion of the time (most of them carry a DX and FX body loaded and ready to shoot at the same time).
Correct. DX is perfect for tele wildlife no doubt, I wonder if the D800 crop mode will be enough to satisfy wildlife photographers, I wonder especially about noise levels but also color fidelity/saturation and DR tractability in post, I can't wait for the first full review
 
SergeyMS wrote:

My D5100 takes ten times better pictures then D7000. Is it only my camera deficiency or not?
Considering that these two cameras have the same sensor the results under equal conditions (including post-processing and camera settings) should be as good as identical with the same lens.
 
Thank you.

I'm a bit confused between what you show and what Tom H has in his D7000 book on page 392. He shows the outer sensor to be horizontal, you show vertical. I suspect you both mean the same thing, but are just showing it differently.

I haven't yet converted the NEF's so I can post them, but I did take a copy of your mask and overlayed it onto one.

I started to explain all this, but if you are taking the time to help, I'll take the time to process and post....

So here goes....

First, in daylight daylight and viewfinder focus.



Second, the same with your mask.



Third, taken in tungsten light.



Finally, tunsten with liveview.



The method used was to set the focus to infinity, focus, move the lens to manual focus, and then take the picture. The camera was set to remote with the mirror delay on.

Processed in CS5. I apologize for this set I forgot to remove the default sharpening settings.

Thanks
Steve

--
ssjackson
 
Can't tell a thing from those. You need to check "allow download of originals" under your profile settings, so we can see them zoomed in more.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top