Was your first D5000 your first DSLR?I disagree. Went through several D5000s. Most all underexposed using Matrix. Later...tried one (refurb) and it was spot-on. You'll recall other simiilar complaints at the time. I don't think it's up to the user necessarily to dial-in - or + exp. comp. as a matter of rule. I also understand how others adapt using this and don't complain. Count me among the former. And no, this does not make me a P&S guy.
Seems like a lot more steps and menu-diving than I do.Then I can just use AutoISO and set a min shutter speed. Otherwise I use Aperture priority, lock exposure, back dial set to quick iso and turn it until I get the shutter speed I want. I only use AutoISO when I'm shooting action and then I usually use matrix metering.
Once you have the exposure locked you can change ISO, aperture, SS however you like and you'll still have the same exposure. In manual if you decide you need a faster shutter speed then you also need to change either the iso or the aperture. Then I can make decisions like "do I want to go up to ISO 3200 or do I want to try shooting at 1/250s instead of 1/500s?"
I save manual for indoors with a flash and long exposures at night where i need longer than 30s. Otherwise i prefer to not have to figure out if my exposure is f4.5, ISO 6400 and 1/30 sec, what is that at ISO 100 and f8? I can do it, I guess I'm just lazy wanting the camera to do as much work for me as it can
Yes, because the sky was an IMPORTANT part of your image. What you've neglected to mention is that you don't want to blow out something IF IT'S IMPORTANT to the final image. However, it can work the opposite for you. For example, shoot a redtail hawk perched it a tree, in shade, against a pure white sky. If you try not to blow out the sky, you WILL lose detail in the feathers because of blocked shadows and noise.Because back in the film days, uness you were shooting slide film, your exposure coulde be way off and you'd still have a reasonably good print. People didn't realize how much they were off by, the photo lab fixed everything for them.
Colour film you could probaby be off by ~2 stops and be ok, B&W you could probably be off by ~4. Sure you'd lose some detail in the shadows if you underexposed but most people didn't miss it there anyway. You were probably better off if you over exposed a bit.
Now with digital, it's the opposite, blown highlights are much more noticeabe than blocked shadows and you're better off in most cases to under expose by a bit. The result will be some increased noise in the shadows but that's preferable to blowing out the sky or a wedding dress.
If you shoot raw, you have a lot more flexibility. If you shoot jpg then you have to be right on, similary to shooting color reversal or polaroid.
Here is a photo to demonstrate how much you can under expose with digital and still maintain detail in the shadows. The top image is the ooc jpeg, metered for the sky (part of a bracketed set). The bottom image is after adjustments in LR3 and PS. Had I exposed for the shadows, the sky woud have been blown out and I would not have been able to recover many of the highight details.
No menus involved, aperture on the front wheel, ISO on the back wheel, exposure lock on the preview button. I change the Fn button to Flash off, FV lock or AutoISO depending on what I'm doing. If you're not using a D7000 then it may not be quite as easy, sometimes I forget that
but the OP has a D7000. The TLR doesn't tell you if you've exposed the film that you just advanced so you have to remember that you did that too or you'll advance it twice or have a double (or more) exposure. Operating a camera is so much easeir now.Nope, never used a Spotmatic. Sounds like a blastNo menus involved, aperture on the front wheel, ISO on the back wheel, exposure lock on the preview button. I change the Fn button to Flash off, FV lock or AutoISO depending on what I'm doing. If you're not using a D7000 then it may not be quite as easy, sometimes I forget that
I use manual when I shoot fim; the exposure lock on my SF1 sucks, there's no auto modes on my Spotmatic and my TLR doesn't even have a light meter
Have you used a Spotmatic? THAT is a lot of steps to go through
Yes, because the sky was an IMPORTANT part of your image. What you've neglected to mention is that you don't want to blow out something IF IT'S IMPORTANT to the final image. However, it can work the opposite for you. For example, shoot a redtail hawk perched it a tree, in shade, against a pure white sky. If you try not to blow out the sky, you WILL lose detail in the feathers because of blocked shadows and noise.
It has to be a balance for the composition. I think too many people (mostly newbies) worry about NEVER having ANY "blinkies" on the rear LCD, which often works against ETTR, which as we know if the best way to shoot digital.
Not the sharpest, but illustrates my point. Sky is toast. Who cares? It was boring anyway.
I do that a lot too. I can usually find a reason why I should have done something another way. I work in engineering, I'm always trying to optimize how I do something Nope, never used a Spotmatic. Sounds like a blastNo menus involved, aperture on the front wheel, ISO on the back wheel, exposure lock on the preview button. I change the Fn button to Flash off, FV lock or AutoISO depending on what I'm doing. If you're not using a D7000 then it may not be quite as easy, sometimes I forget that
I use manual when I shoot fim; the exposure lock on my SF1 sucks, there's no auto modes on my Spotmatic and my TLR doesn't even have a light meter
Have you used a Spotmatic? THAT is a lot of steps to go through
I guess we both just have different ways that are comfortable for us. I can't imagine NOT having the back wheel for SS, I use it way too much!
As long as we get the shots we're after, doesn't matter, right?
Cheers!
Me too, although AUDIO engineering. But yes, me too.I work in engineering, I'm always trying to optimize how I do something
Really. About freakin' time!
Was just curious. Sending multiple bodies back DOES sound a bit "newbie", no?
All recent consumer level Nikons have been reported to do this, especially with the 18 - 105 kit lens (no such problem with my 70 - 300). I dial in -1/3 to - 2/3 EV in the sun with this lens. I'd prefer Nikon got it right.
What would the lens have to do with it? Bar a stuck aperture mechanism I can't see how that can contribute to overexposure
