Focus Peaking

I am interested in the Nex 5 or 7. I have seen some vids of people using focus peaking, and, it looks like it works very well. However, I wanted to get the thoughts of actual users of the cameras (I think some Nex 7's have been released based on seeing images in flickr groups etc). The reason that I am interested is that I have some older m mount lenses that I would like to use. I currently have a GF1 and using the magnification method is workable but, not ideal.

Thanks for any help.

Peaking is great but not absolute remedy.

My observation is that peaking works at the resolution of the display. It thus shows you where the focus will be but it is not as accurate as you need to get tack sharp images all the time.

This said some lenses feel easier to focus well with peaking than others.

For example I own 90/2.8 Zeiss for Contax G and it is easy to focus with peaking only. Same with Sigma 28/1.8.

However I have difficulties focusing solely with peaking using a 45/2 Zeiss.

Luckily zoom + peaking is very accurate and very fast. It works like - focus roughly with peaking, press magnify, slightly fine tune, press shutter.

The trick is that peaking then indicates focus on the magnified image which is very accurate.

Now with video peaking without magnify is perfect. HD resolution is close enough to this of the display so no softness is seen in the end product.

To be honest even mis focused photos without magnification look good.

I hope this helps.

additionally, peaking works poorly if you need to focus on inner details of an object which are not rim-lighted. For example, I found it didn't work at all for focusing on a subject's eyes.

Jack A. Zucker said:

additionally, peaking works poorly if you need to focus on inner details of an object which are not rim-lighted. For example, I found it didn't work at all for focusing on a subject's eyes.

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Maybe you need to change your settings? I have it on High-Yellow, and I can almost alwyas adjust via slight motions (no magnification) so that the pupil itself is clearly yellow-as in, first the back of the hair is highlighted yellow, then the front, then the face, then the rim of the eye, then the pupil and rim of eye (and some of the front of the hair, depending on fstop), and snap . In addition, it shows when one pupil is yellow and the other is not-though sometimes I just snap the shot any way as there is not always time to be as precise as one might like.

Though, the farther away and/or smaller the object, the more likely it is that you will need 7 or 14X magnification to get a very specific spot in focus...but then again, when farther away you will also have a larger DOF in that situation, thus simultanously reducing the need to magnify.

It also important to note, however, when trying to be VERY specific in your focus, the autofocus on the kit lens will very often need some DMF adjustments...which is basically the same idea.

I think as with anything, a little practice makes a big difference, but peaking works great! was at girls basketball game (sorry, won't post any, no permission to do so) and with all manual lenses Olympus OM 55/1.2, 85/2 and Canon 135/2 all wide open and was amazed at how well I was able to keep focus. contrast detect auto focus would be befuddled with all the running girls. And I just have NEX3 that i am using with all my old glass. I don't think my Nikon AF gear could do any better job that I did with NEX in the gym.

hope that helps!

--
Let just all take more photographs!

Working with focus peeking is something that needs to be learned. Remember it only works on vertical edges and varies with lenses due to their contrast, a sharp lens with a lot of contrast works very well. I have a old Vivitar that I can't see the peeking even when turned to high.

TClair said:

varies with lenses due to their contrast, a sharp lens with a lot of contrast works very well.

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Absolutely. I have a few Pentax lenses that work great, but I have a Summar 50/2 with fantastic character, but almost nothing shows up when peaking. Hard lens to focus, but when you get it right it's worth it.

well I think it's better to try to do it with "Low" -- think of it as error bars around points on a graph -- if you use High then you may not really be getting the optimal focus as the camera is showing you a bigger region which may include out-of-focus areas. Whereas "Low" will lead you to a tighter, accurate focus (that's what I try to do at least).

Kiril Karaatanasov said:

Peaking is great but not absolute remedy.

My observation is that peaking works at the resolution of the display. It thus shows you where the focus will be but it is not as accurate as you need to get tack sharp images all the time.

This said some lenses feel easier to focus well with peaking than others.

For example I own 90/2.8 Zeiss for Contax G and it is easy to focus with peaking only. Same with Sigma 28/1.8.

However I have difficulties focusing solely with peaking using a 45/2 Zeiss.

Luckily zoom + peaking is very accurate and very fast. It works like - focus roughly with peaking, press magnify, slightly fine tune, press shutter.

The trick is that peaking then indicates focus on the magnified image which is very accurate.

Now with video peaking without magnify is perfect. HD resolution is close enough to this of the display so no softness is seen in the end product.

To be honest even mis focused photos without magnification look good.

I hope this helps.

Click to expand...

Absolutely agree with the above. I am using a 5N with a 50mm summilux and I need to use magnification for the final focusing when wide open. Though I am thinking of a Nex 7 when it is more easily available, I think 5N does have the advantage of the touch screen which can magnify the area you want to focus at your finger tip (very convenient, without the need of using the dial).

Hope that helps

tonyblair88 said:

TClair said:

varies with lenses due to their contrast, a sharp lens with a lot of contrast works very well.

Click to expand...

Absolutely. I have a few Pentax lenses that work great, but I have a Summar 50/2 with fantastic character, but almost nothing shows up when peaking. Hard lens to focus, but when you get it right it's worth it.

Click to expand...

I find it hilarious when people substitute the "soft" description of a lens, with "it has character". Mind you, there's absolutely nothing wrong with that, I hate tack sharp pictures except for landscapes and buildings, it's just funny that it has become the norm to describe those lenses that way.

Thank you all for your feedback. This is all very helpful!