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Does E-PL3 have IBIS problems like E-PM1?

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no IBIS issues whatsoever and I have tested it extensively at low shutter speeds i.e.

I can only conclude the OP is interested in creating FUD, and if there is one thing I'm uncertain about it is the longevity of lenses with OIS, .. moving elements within expensive lenses may be problematic in years to come.

Rgds, Rob
--
Give a wise man instruction and he is yet wiser !

Olympus E500, E520, E30, 14-45mm, 40-150mm, 11-22mm, 14-54mm, 70-300mm, 25mm 'Pancake' , FL36R
 
Please go to the Photography Blog website and look at the sample images from The E-PM1. Most of the images taken at 1/100 of a second are not sharp. When I look at some of them at 100% they have a double image effect. The shots taken at faster and slower shutter speeds do not seem to have the double image. It reminds me of the trouble some Pentax K-x owners were having a year or two ago. The K-x has IBIS.
 
Banger said:
no IBIS issues whatsoever and I have tested it extensively at low shutter speeds i.e.

I can only conclude the OP is interested in creating FUD,
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I have seen first hand that the IBIS can make a photo unsharp. I tried 5 times to take a photo of some plants and each one was fuzzy. As soon as I turned off the IBIS, I got a sharp photo.

So, NO , the OP IS NOT creating "FUD" as you say.

Allan
 
amalric said:
Pete_S said:
vincent filomena said:
Had the Magical EPM1 from day one: Never had an IBIS problem !

Shoot a ton when you get the camera: Don't like it return it !

Stop spreading tales of your incompetence

Boring:

Love Vjim ;)
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I trust this is "tongue in cheek" ;)

I've had quite a few cameras, both with in lens IS and IBIS, and never have I witnessed a system as non functional as my E-PM1. I say "my", as it's clearly a problem with some samples and not others; I'm pleased yours works well. Mine might as well not have IS at all, I now leave it off.

On the other hand I'm lucky with the IS on my E-PL1, it stays on all the time and rescues many low light shots whilst not affecting "safe" shutter speed shots at all, whereas I know others have very poor experience with it.

Olympus needs to get their act together, at least as far as IS goes.
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I find it surprising that you who are dissing on the Internet a brand for being obfuscating don't send you camera to assistance for a check.
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I'm not "dissing" Olympus as a company generally, just one aspect of some samples of certain recent models. Yes, perhaps I should get it checked, though I'm happy with most else and live without IBIS now.
amalric said:
Or else pay regularly your shrink for your denial problems. Making a lobby on a forum doesn't mean that a camera is faulty, it simply means that there are a lot of whiners, which is nothing new.
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Not even worth trying to reply to.
amalric said:
Am.

--
Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
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arrow501 said:
Please go to the Photography Blog website and look at the sample images from The E-PM1. Most of the images taken at 1/100 of a second are not sharp. When I look at some of them at 100% they have a double image effect. The shots taken at faster and slower shutter speeds do not seem to have the double image. It reminds me of the trouble some Pentax K-x owners were having a year or two ago. The K-x has IBIS.
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I welcome any experiment that can duplicated, in the spirit of science. Having been with IBIS for the last 4 years with a series of cameras I never noticed the problem. I also shot at 1/100 with my E-PL3 in order to see if the OP contention was true, and I saw no difference at all.

Now could it be a problem specific to the PM1? Materially the PL3 has the same body with a few buttons added, and the tilt screen, so why should it be different?

What I find surprising is that no one of you protesters had the courage of sending the camera back to maintenance for a check. Oly has very good labs and can make a check in 10 days time, at least in Germany. So what are you waiting for?

You could even have your camera refunded instead of pestering the forum with allegations that cannot be duplicated by some of the owners.

Am.

--
Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
 
But really, send it to Olympus labs. You'll do a favour to the community, instead of pestering it.

If measurable, you would probably get a refund and get a better camera.
It's a win win proposition to take action, instead of talking the walk.

Am.
--
Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
 
amalric said:
I welcome any experiment that can duplicated, in the spirit of science. Having been with IBIS for the last 4 years with a series of cameras I never noticed the problem. I also shot at 1/100 with my E-PL3 in order to see if the OP contention was true, and I saw no difference at all.
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I've demonstrated the problem on my E-PM1

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1041&message=40050225

If you're camera doesn't have this defect, then you're lucky. Many other people besides me have had this problem with their camera. Why is it so hard for you to believe that there could be a quality control problem or a design flaw?

* * *

And if you don't believe me, the review at dpreveiw demonstrates IBIS on the E-PL3 making the image blurry at 1/100 sec:

http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/olympusepl3/page10.asp

So to answer the original poster, yes the E-PL3 likely has the same problem as the E-PM1.
 
if it doesnt works for you Jim. For me, Pen IBIS works.

cheers
radix
James Pilcher said:
The first photo is nowhere near sharp, at least on my monitor. It appears to prove my point quite dramatically; Olympus IBIS does not work.

The second set of photos also demonstrates one of my points; IBIS can make things better, but never tack sharp. Looking at your side-by-side, the "sharp" one does not have the sharpness (IMO) that a tripod offers. In the end, it comes down to what satisfies the photographer. After extensive trials on three bodies, no implementation of IBIS satisfies me.

Please understand that I'm not criticizing your photos or your equipment. I'm just talkin' here about IBIS and critical sharpness.

Jim Pilcher
Summit County, Colorado, USA
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Er, I have no dog in this fight, my IS is always turned off until I need it, on any camera.

But I'd be very reluctant to lose my camera for ten days to make a point, and also in my experience if a camera can take a photo it comes back NFF (No Fault Found).
amalric said:
arrow501 said:
Please go to the Photography Blog website and look at the sample images from The E-PM1. Most of the images taken at 1/100 of a second are not sharp. When I look at some of them at 100% they have a double image effect. The shots taken at faster and slower shutter speeds do not seem to have the double image. It reminds me of the trouble some Pentax K-x owners were having a year or two ago. The K-x has IBIS.
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I welcome any experiment that can duplicated, in the spirit of science. Having been with IBIS for the last 4 years with a series of cameras I never noticed the problem. I also shot at 1/100 with my E-PL3 in order to see if the OP contention was true, and I saw no difference at all.

Now could it be a problem specific to the PM1? Materially the PL3 has the same body with a few buttons added, and the tilt screen, so why should it be different?

What I find surprising is that no one of you protesters had the courage of sending the camera back to maintenance for a check. Oly has very good labs and can make a check in 10 days time, at least in Germany. So what are you waiting for?

You could even have your camera refunded instead of pestering the forum with allegations that cannot be duplicated by some of the owners.

Am.

--
Photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amalric
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--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/acam
http://thegentlemansnapper.blogspot.com
 
arrow501 said:
Please go to the Photography Blog website and look at the sample images from The E-PM1. Most of the images taken at 1/100 of a second are not sharp. When I look at some of them at 100% they have a double image effect. The shots taken at faster and slower shutter speeds do not seem to have the double image. It reminds me of the trouble some Pentax K-x owners were having a year or two ago. The K-x has IBIS.
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Is this your personal experience or just some images you viewed on a website?

--
http://www.pbase.com/dot_borg
 
amalric said:
But really, send it to Olympus labs. You'll do a favour to the community, instead of pestering it.
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Pity you have to get personal about it. If I wanted to "pester" the community there have been a lot of IBIS threads, more than you would expect if everything was OK, that I could have posted in. I've only spoken up in a few of them to agree with someone else as far as I remember.

Forums should be a place where all views can be aired and where newcomers can come to in order to find out the pros and cons before buying something. I've never implied that all samples of the E-PM1 suffer an IS problem; I respect that many owners seem to have no issue at all. But more than usual have problems, there wouldn't be so many related threads otherwise, so it's worth talking about it and letting potential purchasers judge for themselves.

I could send mine for checking, but, cynically maybe, feel no problem would be reported. As has been pointed out by others, how do you measure the effectiveness of IS in an objective way when it seems to be so interactive with the user? I love the camera in other respects, and am holding out, maybe unrealistically, for a fw fix.

I won't be "pestering" on the subject again you'll be glad to hear.
 
I did not get to read all of your replies but one thing is clear - only use it at low shutter speeds. Does that mean that it is next to useless at long focal lengths to help with hand-held shots at medium shutter speeds?

Also, would I be better off with a stabilised lens instead of IBIS?

Cheers
 
rocklobster said:
I did not get to read all of your replies but one thing is clear - only use it at low shutter speeds. Does that mean that it is next to useless at long focal lengths to help with hand-held shots at medium shutter speeds?
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If you keep at or above the old rule then usual careful hand-holding is OK, that means try and keep at or above..... (for lenses on M4/3)......

300mm 1/640 sec (like the Oly 75-300mm or Panasonic 100-300mm)
200mm 1/400 sec
150mm 1/320 sec
100mm 1/200 sec
50mm 1/100 sec, and so on.....

Once you get below those speeds then there is an advantage to using stabilisation as otherwise the user induced wobblies at slower speeds are way worse than any small bad effect that stabilisation may add.
rocklobster said:
Also, would I be better off with a stabilised lens instead of IBIS?
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Usually lens stabilisation is claimed to work better than in body stabilisation, and that is 100% true for video. Framing can be easier at long focal lengths if the preview is stabilised.

In my experience using 150mm I do see a tiny bit of extra blur with in-body stabilisation in use, but sharper with it off, all at safe shutter speeds.

I leave in-body stabilisation off until needed, and also with the Panasonic 14-45mm lens on my E-PL1 I also leave the lens stabilisation off until needed for stills, and of course it is always needed with any video.

Regards............. Guy
 
If you have a heavy lens on it then the problem should go away.

Lens IS brings problems of its own. Isn't in every lens (my 14-45 and 100-300 have it. my other Panny lenses do not), and when it fails (which it will), if it is in the body the odds are said body will have been replaced, and if not the body will still work anyway, if in the lens I'll probably still be using the lens and I'm not sure it will be up to snuff with dodgy IS misaligning an element.
rocklobster said:
I did not get to read all of your replies but one thing is clear - only use it at low shutter speeds. Does that mean that it is next to useless at long focal lengths to help with hand-held shots at medium shutter speeds?

Also, would I be better off with a stabilised lens instead of IBIS?

Cheers
Click to expand...
--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/acam
http://thegentlemansnapper.blogspot.com
 
Yep I concur - mostly...

My EP1 was giving better results sometimes, when I delibretly made my hands shake slightly!

When the EP1 came out it was claimed 4 stops IS and a 1/4000 shutter (just like the E3).

Which also makes me suspect its shutter mech is the same as the e-3 -- nice 150,000 shutter life rating !!!!!

When the EPL1 came out it was claimed 3 stops IS and 1/2000 shutter - this seems worse and I think the rest are this lesser IS system... bar the EP1,2,3 but all the EPL1,2,3 and M1.
 
'O' for an IBIS setting that can turn it off after a cirtain FL/shutter speed ratio (basicly the clasic 1/shutter speed)! all problems would be solved!
 
I think you have a conundrum here, because some people havd trouble with ibis on the mini, and others do not. But it does sound like those who do have trouble just turn if off.

I've been shooting with the mini since end of September and I leave ibis on and have never noticed any problems with it. Exceptions are when using tripod for moon shot and when using video. Just turn it off in those scenarios.

Totally agree an auto mode for ibis would be a nice option.

Mini is small. I feel the slight shudder when the shutter closes. Or is it opens. I do wonder if it's not the camera's ibis, but the style of the user. I never think of holding the camera steady (don't wave it round either) and compose with it nearly a foot in front of me (long arms).

Just will say, I love the mini. And so do my family and friends.

My main problem is not flooding their Facebook streams with photos of my 8 month old baby girl.

Both cameras are great, so sure you will enjoy.

Cheers
 
I have not noticed any problem with IBIS on my E-PL3. However, I can see where it could be a problem under certain conditions.

I believe that the IBIS on the E-5 is more robust than other cameras. Recently I did some aerial photography. Used the E-5 on telephoto 50-200 and the 620 on the wide angle 12-60. IBIS on for both. Both shot at greater than 1/100 sec.

All the E-5 shots were sharp as a tack. In fact, incredibly sharp. All the 620 shots look like they had motion problems. Take this for what it is worth.
 
In all the ibs tests I have seen here with problems they are shot a 1/100 with less tha 100mm effective focal length. At these shutter Speeds ibis is not required so I am not concerned. I like a few others have always noticed some small loss of sharpness with IS on at safe speeds.

My question is do people have these same issues shooting at 1/100 at 300 mm effective focal length or 600? If there are problems at these focal lengths and speeds then I would agree that there is some problem happening.

But if the only problem is that IS causes unsharp pics and by turning it off you can get a sharp then I dont see the issue as you can still get the shot.
 
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