What is the essential kit for the street photographer?

I'm tired of lugging around my big dslr body and glass, and using them I feel I'm imposing myself and interfering more with my surroundings than I intend to and I'm comfortable with. I want to get back to the fun I had with my old OM system, and because of this I've almost decided to get the black Olympus E-p3 with the 17mm f2.8 kit lens. (The lens appears to be good value as included in the kit). Now, before I take the plunge, I would be delighted by whatever advice or caveats the experienced crowd in this place could give me. As the subject line suggests, I plan to use this camera in the street and in my home. I would especially appreciate comments on what extra bits and pieces would make my experience smoother/funnier/better/more interesting. I take it an extra battery, for example, is a good investment, but the Olympus OM-adapter for the M43 mount seems excessively expensive (is there any electronic bits in the adapter, or what explains the price tag?).
you can get an adapter for about $29.00, but your lenses are going to be too long for "street photography" if you mean that in the classical sense. A classic street photography rig would be a Leica M3 or M4 with a 35mm lens. Wihile the Oly 17mm is the same effective focal length, it does not have DOF scales on it so you really can't zone focus or set the hyper focal distance easily. It can be done though, sort of. You can get an optical view finder for it though. Oly does make a very nice 12mm f/2.0 lens that has AF, and an alternative manual focus mode with DOF scales, etc. on the lens and settable manually. If you are serious about "street photography" this is the set up closest to the Leica set up.
Am I making a mistake? What accessories are a must for this system? Which software works best with the camera?
The softwear that comes with the Oly cameras sucks. Anything is better.
I hope you will be able help me.
TEdollph
 
I do street photography quite a bit - I live about 30 min from NYC. For the most part, my present kit is the Panasonic 25mm/f1.4 - and the Olympus 14mm/f2.5 is always in my bag.
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Maria
 
@jeffharris: You raise two very good points. As I wrote above, I'm going to have to try getting a feel for the ergonomics of both models in the shop. Though I find the design of the regular Pens to be very attractive, the plainer looks of the EPL3 is probably often an advantage.
I've tried both the EP3 and EPL3 and the EPL3 is much smaller and lighter than the EP3. The EPL3 had a fairly straightforward menu mode with a list of relevant parameters that seemed pretty easy to navigate.
I hope to get some use out of my old Zuiko 50mm as well as a short tele, too. How is your experience with the image quality of your 50mm? Is there some sort of RAW-profile to adjust distortion and vignetting for post-processing like what is built in with the modern 4:3 lenses?
My 50mm is a Pentax f1.4 SMC Takumar (my late father-in-law bought it in the early 70s). It's really a great lens, sharp, easy to work and focus and the color rendition can be quite beautiful. I almost always carry it in my basic walkabout kit: 7-14mm, Voigtländer Nokton 25mm, Pentax 50mm and Nikon 105mm f2.8 macro.
 
Which software works best with the camera?
Give Lightroom 3 a try, it's camera agnostic ;-) There's a free 30-day demo you can download. I've just started using it in the last month or so and it's turning out to be quite good.

Granted, it's complex and a bit daunting, so I did a bunch of reading up, read chunks of the manual and peck away at the the Scott Kelby Lightroom book (Kindle ebook for iPad actually) with it's step-by-step cookbook approach.

Gradually the fear is fading and I'm enjoying working with it. I've been keywording my photos, so now I can find green bicycles, red dragonflies, pink roses, rusty metal, neon signs, spiders and turtles and squirrels... oh, my! ;-)
 
@gotompoes: I agree a tilting screen is preferable. I guess they chose not to let the E-P3 screen tilt because of the touch interface. The tilting screen would definitely allow me to be more creative with perspective, but I find I shoot mostly with the camera at about eye level. I hadn't really considered the 25mm Pana/Leica one, because I'm looking for a light, inconspicuous lens for my default kit, but it does look like a great lens. Maybe it'll be one of the next lenses to buy. I'm thinking of buying the 45mm 1.8 as my first non-kit lens.

@juansin: Aye, that combination sounds excellent. Thank you for the link to your beautiful photos. I hope to visit Santiago de Compostela soon (maybe even walk El Camino), and your photos are making the city look even more attractive and interesting. I'm wondering a bit why you get so little use out of the OM 50mm in the street. I suppose it's a partly a matter of personal style, but I've found that a short tele allows me to get a bit closer to people. On the other hand having to fiddle with both focus and aperture on the OM lens, I can understand it being harder to do candid photography with it.

@Hen3ry: Yes, it sounds like I'm going down the same road, you've been walking. Thank you for your advice. I'm definitely getting a OVF right away now. You also make a very good point about black/silver cameras. I've been in a mindset where I've thought that black is always the discrete colour, but I think you're absolutely right: Silver is the way to go to stay inconspicuous, and I'll chose that as well. I like your ingenious solution to the lacking grip of the E-PL3 a lot! No need to make things more complicated than they have to be. I also like the idea of using an elastic lanyard thing for a neck strap, now you aren't carrying several kilograms of gear around. I'll rummage around for something appropriate. Cheers!

@SF Photo Gal: Very cool setup. I plan on getting a 45mm as a second lens, too. The GF1 looks like an excellent little camera. You have to wonder why they haven't made a proper update instead of the GF3 which, qualities aside, just looks like it's an altogether different type of camera.

@pocketpygmy: Ah, temptation! I'd love to have the 12mm with its snap focus, no doubt about it, but I don't think it'd be the one I kept on the camera most of the day. What a piece of engineering beauty it is, though. Maybe some day.

@rube39: Ricoh deserves more hype. Had I been going for a non-interchangeable camera, the GRIV would've been a top contender. I love the idea of the GXR system, but it still seems a bit gimmicky to me. Undoubtly I'm being unfair. If I were coming from a M-mount system, it might've been the one to choose, but as it is the GXR system needs more third party support for it to be a system, I'd dare buy into at this point.

@JeremyT: Sounds good! Thank you for the recommendations: I'll be getting both the OVF and the 45mm. I like the look of the PM1, it really looks to be the right way of slimming down a camera without losing features (or a hot shoe!) with one exception: Don't you miss having more dials?

@Wormsmeat: Thank you for the advice. Aye, I'm moving away from using my old 50 mm as a short tele and going straight for the 45mm instead. Your photos are excellent, you're good at capturing moments that tells a story, or make you imagine a story for that moment.

@Ray Sachs: Sage advice. It's the poor craftsman who blames his tools. You make a very good point about being comfortable with the gear. Excuse me if this isn't all that well thought out, I would say that perhaps ideally the camera becomes part of you, and it might feel more personal for the subjects when you use a OVF or EVF and your camera becomes your eye and next to your face (where people usually instinctively look) instead of a tool in your hands. At least when you want a connection with your subjects.

@tedolf: The Leica M-system is out of my price range unfortunately, but I understand your point. I'm hoping the AF-system is sufficiently intelligent to get focus right even without the option of zone focusing. It's a bit strange that there isn't an option to hyperforcus in the camera, with all the camera-lens interconnectivity of the 4:3 system, you'd think it would be simple for the camera to adjust. My venerable dad has a well kept Minolta CLE rangefinder that isn't getting as much use at is used to. I might be able to borrow some of his lenses if I get me a M-mount converter, but as you point out, they all end up being teles on the m43, and even with the lovely glass I suspect I'll get as good or better results with the Oly 45mm f1.8.

@Marla: Cool, I bet you'll never ever run out of subjects or surprises in NYC. What an amazing city.

@jeffharris: The EPL3 didn't feel that much smaller and lighter than the EP3 when I handled them, but this was in the shop so it wasn't that great of a comparison. I've heard that the EP3 menu system can be daunting at first, is it really that different from the menu system in EPL3? If I can find myself a cheap OM converter, I'll use my old 50mm until I get me the new 45mm, I think. I'm envious of your Voigtländer Nokton, but I'm a bit sceptical about how much use I'd get out of the f0.95. Is it practical?

Regarding Lightroom 3, I'll definitely try out the demo, and try not to be to intimidated. Thanks for the recommendations.
 
I think the EP-3 is a very good choice. I like The thought of mating the 17mm and their OVF. I use the VF-3. It's not the pick of the litter, but it is good enough.
 
@JeremyT: Sounds good! Thank you for the recommendations: I'll be getting both the OVF and the 45mm. I like the look of the PM1, it really looks to be the right way of slimming down a camera without losing features (or a hot shoe!) with one exception: Don't you miss having more dials?
With the 17mm for street photography I tend to just use A priority and follow "f/8 and be there" so I don't bother with dials much. With the 45mm I sometimes want to shoot wide open for subject isolation (need an ND filter for sure if you intend to do that, btw) and that's when using the fiddly little wheel can be a little bit frustrating.

It's not that bad though, once you get used to it. I miss the controls of the E-P2, but the PM1 is better in every other way.
 
.. but I don't know how to get beautiful portraits... and the people goes away every time I want to take a pic from them. So, out of focus, blured photos. I like the OM 50 for static subjects, but street is moving!! it´s difficult to me.. I've to training more!

You will really love Santiago de Compostela!! As you may know, the end of the trips is Finisterre. You must go!!

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juansinponte
http://juansinponte.blogspot.com/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/juansinponte/sets/72157615036560003/show/
 
I own the E-P3 and it is a very good camera, however some prefers the E-Pl3 for street photography : it has two advantages over the E-P3 a) the flipping LCD allows you to shoot at waist level and b) its buffer allow you to shoot more pictures before the buffer is full. I got the e-P3, because it has the thumbwheel, but I'm still regretting the fixed LCD.

The 17mm is not a very highly reguarded lens, while the Panasonic 20mm is both sharper and faster. But it won't come in kit with any camera.

Another very highly reguarded lens is the Olympus 45mm f1.8 a very good value for the money and a beautiful sharp lens with a nice bokey, although a little too long for street shooting. And the most innovative lens of the year is the 12mm Olympus which comes with distance scales on the lens body and isn't focusing by wire like the other mft native lenses.

E-P3 or E-Pl3, you will love it ! And for your legacy lenses just get a Chinese adapter from EBay, you will spare a lot !

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rrr_hhh
 
EP-3 is a great choice, it gives you lots of creative options, fast response and the LCD screen when shooting can be viewed from a wide angle.

Take with you a zoom , lens a prime (about 25mm) and a wide angle or fish eye, if you are in an area where there are likely to be shooting opportunities keep your camera switched and pre-white balanced

No need for spare batteries , just bring your charger with you, when you are taking a coffee break while sat in a cafe (ask the owner if OK first, most will oblige ) re-charge your battery then.

For more fun in your street photography I suggest pin hole, holga , lens baby composer or fisheye lenses or try the art filters, technique wise be very vigilant and fast reacting for funny photos....

some micro four thirds street photos http://www.flickr.com/photos/youdidntdidyou/sets/72157625946618634/
I'm tired of lugging around my big dslr body and glass, and using them I feel I'm imposing myself and interfering more with my surroundings than I intend to and I'm comfortable with. I want to get back to the fun I had with my old OM system, and because of this I've almost decided to get the black Olympus E-p3 with the 17mm f2.8 kit lens. (The lens appears to be good value as included in the kit). Now, before I take the plunge, I would be delighted by whatever advice or caveats the experienced crowd in this place could give me. As the subject line suggests, I plan to use this camera in the street and in my home. I would especially appreciate comments on what extra bits and pieces would make my experience smoother/funnier/better/more interesting. I take it an extra battery, for example, is a good investment, but the Olympus OM-adapter for the M43 mount seems excessively expensive (is there any electronic bits in the adapter, or what explains the price tag?).

Am I making a mistake? What accessories are a must for this system? Which software works best with the camera?

I hope you will be able help me.
--
living life to the Four Thirds!
http://www.readwriteweb.com/archives/redux_the_future_of_the_camera.php
 
@jeffharris: The EPL3 didn't feel that much smaller and lighter than the EP3 when I handled them, but this was in the shop so it wasn't that great of a comparison. I've heard that the EP3 menu system can be daunting at first, is it really that different from the menu system in EPL3? If I can find myself a cheap OM converter, I'll use my old 50mm until I get me the new 45mm, I think. I'm envious of your Voigtländer Nokton, but I'm a bit sceptical about how much use I'd get out of the f0.95. Is it practical?
I use a GH2, so haven't much experience working with the Oly menu system. But, I liked the feel of the EPL3 and tried my Voigtländer 25mm on one. It's a pretty nice combo.

As for the Nokton 25mm, it's my most used lens. I do a lot of low light and night shooting, so it allows me to keep the ISO low and I prefer manual focus in general. Using the distance scale and zone focus is helpful when just walking around. It also has very close focus distance (7") so, it works for close-up and near-macro shooting. I like the general look of the images it helps me make and the feel of the lens itself.
 
My walk around "street" lens is the 40-150 Oly lens: it's short and I'm 30 feet away from any scene; with the vf-2 on my EPM1 no one knows I'm there !

See street shots in my Gallery: shot with the very sharp 40-150 !

Vjim ;)
 
I think the EP-3 is a very good choice. I like The thought of mating the 17mm and their OVF. I use the VF-3. It's not the pick of the litter, but it is good enough.
You use the VF-3 with the 17mm then? It does look like it handles better than the VF-2, being a bit smaller and with a lock. Pity it's a step backwards with regards to the resolution, but as you say yourself, it's probably good enough for most things even if it isn't the best. I think I'll get most use out of an EVF when paired with a manual focus lens like some of my legacy glass, and so it depends on how much use I get out of them, how high on my wishlist it is.

Oh, and I bet an EVF is nice for super telephoto shooting, too. Hmmm.
 
Get the EVF it is much more versatile and will show you all, I say all the information you have on the LCD. You can keep your eye on the EVF and change all the settings you need. You can adjust in the custom settings what you are seeing in the EVF and LCD separately.

As for the difference in resolution between the VF 3 and VF 2 it is almost not perceptible. So get the one with the lock is better IMO.

Paying for the OVF is a waste IMO, because the EVFs are so much better.

--
rrr_hhh
 
With the 17mm for street photography I tend to just use A priority and follow "f/8 and be there" so I don't bother with dials much. With the 45mm I sometimes want to shoot wide open for subject isolation (need an ND filter for sure if you intend to do that, btw) and that's when using the fiddly little wheel can be a little bit frustrating.
Yes, a downside of not being able to go down lower than ISO 200. How much dynamic range is there at that ISO though? How much is it possible to underexpose and still salvage from RAWs, do you know?

Talking about filters, I presume the old-fashioned linear polarizers will work since it isn't using phase detection auto focus. That's actually pretty nice!
 
EP-3 is a great choice, it gives you lots of creative options, fast response and the LCD screen when shooting can be viewed from a wide angle.
The E-Pl3 with the flipping LCD will also be a good choice allowing more insconpiscuous shots. It is as fast if not mre for burst shooting, but it lacks the thumbwheel control.
Take with you a zoom , lens a prime (about 25mm) and a wide angle or fish eye, if you are in an area where there are likely to be shooting opportunities keep your camera switched and pre-white balanced
A standard zoom could be helpful, offering versatility. A pancake would be more inconspicuous. The 25mm is more expensive and bigger. A normal angle of view is what was used traditionally (between 35mm and 55mm in equivalent focal lengths), nowadays many prefer moderate wide angle, which allows easier hip shooting and cropping. As for a fisheye, the idea just sounds ridiculous.
No need for spare batteries , just bring your charger with you, when you are taking a coffee break while sat in a cafe (ask the owner if OK first, most will oblige ) re-charge your battery then.
Well, if you are ready to wait for 3 to 4 hours, load your battery in a coffeeshop or a restaurant ! Else take a spare battery, or shoot sparingly without wasting your battery. If you start with a full load you can easily get up to 200-250 shots, unless it is unreasonnbly cold.
For more fun in your street photography I suggest pin hole, holga , lens baby composer or fisheye lenses or try the art filters, technique wise be very vigilant and fast reacting for funny photos....
Don't make an immoderate use of those tricks, after a while they get tiring.

--
rrr_hhh
 
Thanks for the advice! The E-P3 vs the E-PL3 really seems to boil down to an extra dial contra the flippable screen. But the reviews all praise the quality of the OLED screen compared to the normal LCDs? And what about the touch interface? Is it gimmicky?

I realise the Panasonic 20 mm is a great lens, but the value of the 17 mm kit lens is hard to beat. Unless I can get a bargain on either the 20 mm or on getting the PEN without any kit lenses, I'm thinking it'll be better to spend the money on the 45 mm as my second lens.

I'll start searching these forums on what brands of adapters people have had good experiences with.
 
Thanks for the advice and the link. You have a good eye for humorous subjects. I have been looking at those lens babies before, and perhaps (hopefully) it's just a matter of lack of use, but I don't have the imagination to think, "this is a place where I need a tilt lens"

I'd love a good shift lens though, but I doubt that's going to happen on a m43.
 
Aye, I guess that's a different approach to street photography. Almost like a photo safari, shooting from afar. I prefer getting a bit closer myself, but in honesty I haven't really tried shooting street photography with a tele as long as a 40-150mm can be, so I might be missing out on something.
 

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