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Do I really need a radio transmitter/receiver trigger set?

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Alexis

Alexis

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Hi,

I have been doing a lot of reading and have come to the conclusion that the set that I need is the Phottix Odin to partner my Canon 580 EXII and 430EX Canon flashguns. Up to now I have been using cheap (manual-only) triggers which I have subsequently given to my daughter.

Now that I am without any radio triggers I have decided to use the transmission capabilities of the 580EXII using the 430EX as a slave (either as the only light source or in partnership with the 580EX). I must say that I love the full automation (which I will also have with the Phottix) and I was pleasantly surprised how well the combo worked - I appreciate its not radio but there were occasions where it was not "line-of-sight" and the 580ex was still triggering the 430EX. My question is what are peoples' experiences and limitation with the built-in capabilities of the 580ex/430. If I dont need it I'd rather not spend what, to me, is a significant amount of money..

Thanx
Alexis

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http://www.alexisimages.com
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http://www.pbase.com/alexis
 
Well, you put your finger on the main drawback--line of sight. Also, distance is a factor. The speedlights need enough light to trigger.

I often use a 580EX and 550EX for environmental portraits. The slaved strobe usually doesn't fire unless it "sees" the master. Still, a very, very handy function within its limitations.

I still use the "el-cheapo manual radio triggers for hidden strobes.
 
You kind of answered your own question.

You don't "need" a radio tx/rx solution in a lot of situations. So if the built in optical functionality does what you want it to in the conditions/situations you want to use it then that's great.

Radio will work in some situations that the optical solutions wont work in.

Only you can really decide if you "need" a radio solution or not.

--
http://www.darrenbirkin.com
 
Hi,

Darren said "Radio will work in some situations that the optical solutions wont work in." I think you will find that radio triggers will work in 99.9% of situations where optical triggers won't. Or certainly - that has been my own experience anyway.

Regards,

Zorpie
--
http://www.pbase.com/zorpie

If it seems too good to be true - then it isn't. If you cannot believe your eyes - then don't.
 
And I recommend the Odins. I bought a set when they became available and they are great. As stated in another post, I bought the starter set (transmitter and 1 receiver) and 2 additional receivers. Not necessarily cheap but less than the Pocket Wizards and they work wonderfully!
--
Lp
 
Let me offer you a different solution.

E-TTL II is great when the distance between the subject and the light(s) is changeable. E-TTL II's weakness is that it will change the flash exposure if the subject/background ratio changes so you have to be aware of that and adjust the FEC to compensate if.

If the subject/flash distance is fixed you are actually better off in manual flash power mode since the subject/ration background doesn't effect the flash power.

One way to get your 580 off the camera and still use it to command the 430 is to use a long E-TTL cord. Syl Arena, who wrote the Speedliters Handbook has a small side business selling these cords at a very reasonable price.

Here is a link to the book, which I highly recommend to anyone interested in using Speedlites.

http://www.amazon.com/Speedliters-Handbook-Learning-Craft-Speedlites/dp/032171105X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325480043&sr=8-1

Here is Syl Arena's web site where he sells the E-TTL extension cords. Be sure to read Syl's writeup on this page.

Unless you want a cord to use with a camera bracket/flash combination I recommend the extra long 33' (10m) cord.

http://ocfgear.com/
 
Hi,

I have both radio triggers AND the 10 metre TTL cords. But there are times when a coiled TTL cord is not suitable ie when there are obstacles in the way - plus I find that when the coiled 10 metre cord needs to be stretched - it can place unnecessary strain on the remote light stand and pull it over if I move just that bit too far away.

Whilst I agree that any manufacturer's TTL system is not totally infallible and TTL allows variability within exposure where the system is making the choices - I don't use it where I have total control over subject distance and movement and will always prefer manual flash. BUT remote TTL does give a greater degree of flexibility where the photographer needs to move around following a subject with pre-fixed remote light stands. Like on a dance floor at a wedding perhaps. I think there is a great deal more 'freedom' of movement as regards TTL flash - if you are prepared to accept the odd miss or two as opposed to not getting the shot at all. And wireless TTL does give even more freedom of movement to the photographer in any given situation.

Only my own opinion based upon my own experiences of course. Others may chose to differ.

Regards,

Zorpie
--
http://www.pbase.com/zorpie

If it seems too good to be true - then it isn't. If you cannot believe your eyes - then don't.
 
You have to understand the abilities and features of the system you use.

If you use ETTL wirelss (optical or radio) or off camera with a cord you are asking the camera/flash to make exposure decisions for you. That can work really well in a lot of situations but sometimes it's not the best option. You also have to accept that if you re-compose your shot the light output of your flashes might change. There are ways to deal with that (FEL, FEC, manual mode etc), but you will need to understand what they do and when best to use them.

--
http://www.darrenbirkin.com
 
Hi,

I have all the combinations - Nikon CLS, PWs for TTL and long sync cords. I have been using the Nikon system for something like 30 years - so I guess I am pretty aware of what suits whatever situation I find myself in at any given time.

There is no doubt that manual flash is ALWAYS best for consistency of exposure. But there are (usually non-studio) situations where manual flash cannot always be used. Therefore if you have access to TTL (through your own system be it Canon or Nikon) and the ability to hardwire and use manual flash - or wireless and manual flash - the choice is down to you and what your experience dictates.

But if you are limited to infrared (TTL or manual) only - then there is no guarantee that it will work outdoors in bright sunlight - or in ANY location where there is no line of sight or where there is obstruction between camera and remote flash. My own experience has shown that wireless will ALWAYS work in these situations. That's all I am saying here.

Regards,

Zorpie
--
http://www.pbase.com/zorpie

If it seems too good to be true - then it isn't. If you cannot believe your eyes - then don't.
 
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