I've reviewed the subtle differences in Phil's samples. For non-SLR
digicams, the differences are so small that they would be lost in
the printing process or downsampling for web use. Don't get me
wrong..if the RAW converter software is good, the end result will
be better than TIFF or JPEG. But realistically, will you be able to
see the difference when printed or scaled down? (no one publishes
100% 5Mp images except for technical reasons).
If it gives more detail in landscape photo and more accurate color, then for those special photos it's worth it.
I was probably going to use Raw mode most of the time.
film look of saturated colors.
I guess it depends on philosophy. I'm of the opinion that a camera
should attempt to capture reality, leaving matters of saturation
for PS because what's lost due to oversaturation can never be
recovered.
The problem is it's hard to get saturation later in some color like the blue sky or the foliage. At least it's my experience with the c700. I like the fact that i can adjust that in camera in the raw data directly. the color from the 602 are pretty nice though...but are they straight out of the camera or did you increase the saturation later?
Some argue that other type of photo look "flat" and it does a bit.
I have yet to see a D7 image photo taken at -3 in contrast (no
contrast adjustment) everybody use 0 which is too strong.
see
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D7HI/D7HIPICS.HTM
Actually this is the one from the D7...it was shot at
Saturation: normal
Sharpness: normal
contrast: normal
that is really not the best settings for that camera as this sharpness and this contrast are way too high. Saturation is not enough if the photo is to be used straight out of the camera and not converted to the proper color space.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/D7/FULLRES/D70OUTDP4.HTM
I would get the D7 not the D7hi...
I still think that the compressed dynamic range of the D7 tends to
give its pictures a stark, contrasty look instead of the smoother
look of say the C-700.
The dynamic range of the D7 is actually not all that bad..but setting sharpness to smooth and contrast to low (-3) will give a flat looking image with no sharp contrast. That can be adjusted later.
Look at Photosig.com for photo produced by the Dimage 7, they are awesome and none have blow out highlight or too narrow dynamic range.
Here is the dynamic range difference for some camera. Note that the D30 has the about the same dynamic range as the D7 at ISO 200.
Minolta DiMAGE 7
5mp JPEG FINE
100* 0.13 354:1 8.5 2.5D 51
100 0.14 289:1 8.2 2.5D 49
200 0.22 239:1 7.9 2.4D 48
400 0.41 153:1 7.3 2.2D 44
800 0.98 111:1 6.8 2.0D 41
Canon G1 50* 0.13 495:1 9.0 2.7D 54
50 0.12 366:1 8.5 2.6D 51
100 0.21 154:1 7.3 2.2D 44
200 0.37 89:1 6.5 1.9D 39
400 0.89 68:1 6.1 1.8D 37
Nikon Coolpix 990 100* 0.13 446:1 8.8 2.6D 53
100 0.19 290:1 8.2 2.5D 49
200 0.35 168:1 7.4 2.2D 44
400 0.44 104:1 6.7 2.0D 40
Canon EOS-D30 100* 0.08 488:1 8.9 2.7D 54
100 0.08 468:1 8.9 2.7D 53
200 0.14 289:1 8.2 2.5D 49
400 0.20 177:1 7.5 2.2D 45
800 0.38 94:1 6.6 2.0D 39
1600 0.70 56:1 5.8 1.7D 35
Nikon D1 200* 0.09 470:1 8.9 2.7D 53
200 0.11 380:1 8.6 2.6D 52
400 0.18 269:1 8.1 2.4D 49
800 0.40 152:1 7.2 2.2D 44
1600 0.82 97:1 6.6 2.0D 40
3200 1.04 92:1 6.5 2.0D 39
6400 2.55 59:1 5.9 1.8D 35
I looked at dpreview.com samples exif data and the photo were taken at normal sharpening and contrast..that's way too high. Also look at Steve review for the D7...different story.
BTW, how long exposure did you use for your infrared photos?
Typically 1 to 2 seconds at the lowest ISO 160, f5.0
Then the D7 is more sensitive to infrared. Most people use less than one second ISO 100. Although it's not as good as the Sony 707.
Can i see a full size image from those infrared photo? I want the
D7 mainly for infrared.
Sure, I've uploaded an edited version and the original:
http://www.pbase.com/mu/infrared
I don't see any full size image there..or did you took them at this small size?
the limited shutter speed of 1/1000s
in shutter priority compare to 1/2000s for the D7, I can use ISO
200 and get a fast 1/2000s for action shots.
Actually, 1/1000 is plenty quick to freeze action. If you really
need a faster shutter, use M mode on the 602 and you can go from 15
seconds all the way to 1/10,000s.
that's interesting..i wonder why it's not in Pill review for the 602z?
I like the 28mm lens of the D7
time lapse feature, full manual white balance. remote control
possibility, EVF compensate for low light and has 100% coverage.
The Fuji 602 actually has two manual WB settings you can customize.
I like some of the features of the D7. But in the end, the image
quality did not impress me, nor did it's seemingly finicky nature
as reported by D7 owners.
finicky nature? what does that mean?
--
Daniella
http://www.photosig.com/viewuser.php?id=26918
http://www.pbase.com/zylen
C700 FORUM:
http://www.c700uz.com 
