Trekking in Nepal (right now in Namche Bazaar) and what I've learnt

robonrome

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Sitting in an internet cafe in Namche Bazaar (Nepal Everest region) nearing the end of a twelve day trek I wanted to share some learnings about kit choice for these conditions.

I'd posted here just before leaving agonising about whether I should leave my 5D2 at home and just take the G3. In the end I couldn't do it, and ended up taking the G3, 14-45, 20/1.7 and 45/1.8, the 5D2 and the 70-300L and 24 TSE lenses. I also have a swag of filters for the G3 and lee system for the 5D.

Here's what I learned. Trekking at Altitude most above 3500m and much above 4000m is very very tiring and you're not at your sharpest. I had guide and porter with my son and I so we were self driven and could stop if and when we wanted, however often the energy levels were just not there to drag the 5D out of my pack. The G3 had the 14-45 with a CPL welded to it hanging from my neck the whole time and didn't cause any neck problems (unlike the 5D2 if I'd tried the same). I ended up getting a great deal more shots I would have missed as a result. Hard to tell from here as I on ly have a very small netbook, but the quality looks pretty good.

On the whole the conditions and energy levels aren't conducive to changing lenses... it's just too damned dusty and you're most of the time too sick and exhausted to bother.

I did find the 5D2 and 70-300L a nice combo for when I'm in a town like Namche doing people shots, and for the odd bit of wildlife (e.g. mountain goats) that popped up on the trail, but did I need it and the 24TSE... frankly no. It's been G3 and 14-45 90% of the time. I also found I didn't really need wider. The 28mm equivalent was wide enough in the vast majority of cases. I did find a CPL filter on both the 14-45 and the 70-300L a great booster for saturation and contrast. The light here is wonderful and I found I could get pleasing shots almost anytime of the day - in fact mid morning and mid afternoon make for some of the best shots as the dynamic range between land and sky is more compressed and able to be captured The grad filters have hardly been out of the bag. Just too complex horizons to make much use.

In short, after this trip (pending review of photos once I get home - and Yes I'll post pics here) I would feel much more comfortable to go again with just the G3 and a few lenses...frankly I didn't use the 45/1.8. I would have got by nicely with the 14-45, 45-200 and 20/1.7 (that saw a little use in low light or when I wanted to be more unobtrusive). I am VERY impressed though with the G3 - 14-45 and Hoya Pro CPL combo. Great quality and flexibility and has taken all the knocks (had the hood knocked off by a recalitrant Yak (you get sick of YAkS!), constant fine dust from the trails coating it along with a liberal splashing of my sweat. It's a very hardy little camera.

Anyway, just wanting to share and would love to hear from you guys while I finish off the last few days of this adventure.

cheers,

rob
 
Sitting in an internet cafe in Namche Bazaar (Nepal Everest region) nearing the end of a twelve day trek I wanted to share some learnings about kit choice for these conditions.

I'd posted here just before leaving agonising about whether I should leave my 5D2 at home and just take the G3. In the end I couldn't do it, and ended up taking the G3, 14-45, 20/1.7 and 45/1.8, the 5D2 and the 70-300L and 24 TSE lenses. I also have a swag of filters for the G3 and lee system for the 5D.

Here's what I learned. Trekking at Altitude most above 3500m and much above 4000m is very very tiring and you're not at your sharpest. I had guide and porter with my son and I so we were self driven and could stop if and when we wanted, however often the energy levels were just not there to drag the 5D out of my pack. The G3 had the 14-45 with a CPL welded to it hanging from my neck the whole time and didn't cause any neck problems (unlike the 5D2 if I'd tried the same). I ended up getting a great deal more shots I would have missed as a result. Hard to tell from here as I on ly have a very small netbook, but the quality looks pretty good.

On the whole the conditions and energy levels aren't conducive to changing lenses... it's just too damned dusty and you're most of the time too sick and exhausted to bother.

I did find the 5D2 and 70-300L a nice combo for when I'm in a town like Namche doing people shots, and for the odd bit of wildlife (e.g. mountain goats) that popped up on the trail, but did I need it and the 24TSE... frankly no. It's been G3 and 14-45 90% of the time. I also found I didn't really need wider. The 28mm equivalent was wide enough in the vast majority of cases. I did find a CPL filter on both the 14-45 and the 70-300L a great booster for saturation and contrast. The light here is wonderful and I found I could get pleasing shots almost anytime of the day - in fact mid morning and mid afternoon make for some of the best shots as the dynamic range between land and sky is more compressed and able to be captured The grad filters have hardly been out of the bag. Just too complex horizons to make much use.

In short, after this trip (pending review of photos once I get home - and Yes I'll post pics here) I would feel much more comfortable to go again with just the G3 and a few lenses...frankly I didn't use the 45/1.8. I would have got by nicely with the 14-45, 45-200 and 20/1.7 (that saw a little use in low light or when I wanted to be more unobtrusive). I am VERY impressed though with the G3 - 14-45 and Hoya Pro CPL combo. Great quality and flexibility and has taken all the knocks (had the hood knocked off by a recalitrant Yak (you get sick of YAkS!), constant fine dust from the trails coating it along with a liberal splashing of my sweat. It's a very hardy little camera.

Anyway, just wanting to share and would love to hear from you guys while I finish off the last few days of this adventure.
Good to see that this m43 system is performing at altitude for you and results posted here when you are ready will be very interesting and welcome (at least to me). I empathise with the tiredness at altitude, but have a sneaking suspicion that you may have flown into Lukla, as the sudden transition to altitude is never an ideal thing. On my only visit to Solu Khumbu, we walked in all the way from Kathmandu and back out again. This method, with more gradual acclimatisation, really gets you fitter and more able to keep your energy levels higher for next time you try. Doing that we were able to get up to nearly 5000 metres with a lot of puffing and blowing, but I was only 22 then! The need to go wider than 28mm equivalent will depend on how close you get to the mountains. I can see it working well if you stick to the trails, but when you get off the trail a 24mm equivalent comes into its own. Getting off the trail also reduces the trail dust problem.We were able to change lenses on film SLRs with m42 screw thread mounts without too many problems.

Incidentally the pure bred yak is a relatively rare beast in those parts. The vast majority of what many westerners think are yaks are in fact dzos (crosses between yaks and normal cattle.) The dzo is often stronger although not as hardy. Either way, you don't argue with them when they are in possession of the trail. I look forward to the photo of your breakfast cooking on a yak/dzo dung fire!
 
I envy you. Did that trek four year ago with my son. Did you get all the way to the Base Camp and Kalapatr? One of my most unforgettable memories is watching the sun rise at Mt. Everest from the top of Kalapatar (in minus 20 degree weather).

I took along my 20D with 17-85 and 70-300 lenses. I carried my 20D with std. zoom with me, but left the telephoto with the porters. I hardly ever used it.

I now have a 5DII and find that it is just to heavy and bulky for this kind of nonsense (plus I'm not getting any younger). I have been considering m4/3 and it's good to hear about your experiences with it. I agree with everything you said about functioning and photographing above 4000m. Enjoy the rest of the trek.

Richard
 
I was a bit too lazy to watch the sunrise at Kala Pattar. Did that at Thyangboche instead while listening to the 8th symphony of Anton Bruckner. A memory for both ear and eye.
--
'Life is short - follow your interests'
photos: http://www.staffanmalmberg.se

 
Did you really walk from Kathmandu?
Yes we did. I was working as a lecturer at Patan College at the time and did this trek in the Desai holiday of 1970. We walked from Kathmandu to Solu Khumbu to Kalapattar and most of the way up Island Peak in the Imja valley before returning over the Trashi Lapcha pass into Rolwaling and slowly home to the Kathmandu valley. There were no buses to Jiri in 1970 as the road had not been built then.
I went by bus to Jiri in 1993 and from there walked up to Kala Pattar, back to Lukla and flying to Kathmandu. If I remember correct it took about 7-8 days to reach Lukla from Jiri.

At that time I carried my own ruck sack, 18 kilo in total. Boy, that was a hard time
Only 18 kg? My sack weighed in at 90lbs (Britain had not gone metric then) and that translates to nearly 41 kg, but then I weigh over 100kg and am nearly 2 metres tall.
Yes it was hard, but I was immortal then.
 
There's always someone who is worse :)

I think even Hillary didn't start out in Kathmandu. If I'm correct he started out in Banepa, some miles to the east of Kathmandu.
I wonder when the road to Tibet was completed then?

Back in the 70s there must have been many westerners, especially in Freek street.
My wife, born in 1967, recalls these strange people :)

--
'Life is short - follow your interests'
photos: http://www.staffanmalmberg.se

 
There's always someone who is worse :)

I think even Hillary didn't start out in Kathmandu. If I'm correct he started out in Banepa, some miles to the east of Kathmandu.
I wonder when the road to Tibet was completed then?

Back in the 70s there must have been many westerners, especially in Freek street.
Yes Kathmandu was at the end of the 'hippy trail' in 1970 and there were some seriously weird people about as well as some exceptional ones. I was working as a volunteer teacher in colleges of the University of Kathmandu, or Tribhuvan University as it was known then. The road through Banepa to Tibet was constructed by Chinese engineers and was opened in around 1970. It had buses running along it but we were too poor to pay the fare. It was only the German, Swiss and American volunteers who had plenty of money! We carried a bundle of 1 rupee notes to pay for everything. Being more or less able to communicate in Nepali helped to keep costs under control as well.

My friend and fellow climber who accompanied me was a teacher at one of the colleges in the Kathmandu valley where some of the Sherpas from Namche Bazaar and Khumjung sent their children, so we had introductions that allowed us to stay as guests in local houses. If I went back today I doubt that anything would be the same. I have over 200 Kodachrome 35mm slides from that trek as well as several reels of Ilford Pan F monochrome negative film. Rumour has it that Father Christmas is bringing me a slide and film scanner this Christmas, so they may all be available as digital images before too long.

The very idea of a digital camera and communicating via the Internet would have seemed fantastical in 1970. At least the mountains and the generous nature of the Sherpa people do not change too much, even if the Imja Glacier and Imja Khola are now more like a lake.
 
Very interesting, thanks for sharing! So looking forward to pics ...

Best, Bernd
--

 
robonrome wrote:
[snip]
Anyway, just wanting to share and would love to hear from you guys while I finish off the last few days of this adventure.
Looking forward to seeing your results. Thanks for the update from the real world.

larsbc
 
Sitting in an internet cafe in Namche Bazaar (Nepal Everest region) nearing the end of a twelve day trek I wanted to share some learnings about kit choice for these conditions.
Hey Rob

I am one of those who made a snotty response to your first post here. That said I think its extremely great with this followup from you. Really the dillema first and know the real world experience. Very interesting and usefull :0).

Also makes me think about the global village, kind of crazy how interwoven the world has become.

Have a nice continued trip.

Kind regards

Jakob
 
Very interested in seeing your pics!

I'm currently preparing my upcoming trip to Cuba, and it will be the first time I do travel photography with a (mostly) Micro Four Thirds only kit, and I'm really excited about the possibilities. I'll carry a GH2 with 14mm, 20mm and 45mm lenses, possibly a Metz 24 AF1 small flash, and a Canon S95 for those times (beach trips) when i don't want to carry the main kit with me.

I'm still undecided on bringing my GF1 as second camera, mostly because I'd like to be able to have everything on a Billingham Digital Hadley (a great bag for a discrete m43 kit btw) - and 2 bodies along with the rest of the stuff might be a bit too much.

Should be fun in any case.

--
http://www.nico-foto.com
 
Rob, how was Namche affected by the earthquake?

Re cameras: My 7D & 70-300L would have stayed at home; for such trips I use GH2, 14-140 & 100-300 (and another small lens or two) -- and my Canon S100.
--
Phil
 
Thanks for the replies, it really does feel surreal being in a place 3500m high and that you can only get to via two days hoofing in on foot from Lukla, yet sit in an internet Cafe (speeds aren't the greatest but hey) and communicate with the world.

To flesh out our trip, we did indeed fly to Lukla and trek from there - a mistake I wont repeat. Even taking the recommended rest days and the using Diamox to assist with acclimatisation it was tough for me and ultimately for my son (aged 17) became a serious problem where we had to half carry him back down the mountain. We'd reached Machermo at 4500m just 3-4 hours short of our goal at Gokyo lakes. So we missed the end goal, but frankly the scenery had been so gob-smackingly amazing that far I don't feel we really missed out and I'll have thousands of images to sift regardless. Just pleased my boy has come good and after a few days out of sorts is his old self again, laughing and joking with our guide and porter and learning Nepalese and sharing english words.

Next time I will bus to Jiri and walk from there. A few days molre, but I haven't met anyone who has gotten sick who came in that way.
Rob, how was Namche affected by the earthquake?

Re cameras: My 7D & 70-300L would have stayed at home; for such trips I use GH2, 14-140 & 100-300 (and another small lens or two) -- and my Canon S100.
--
Phil
Hi Phil;, a bit of damage, but thankfully no fatalities I'm aware of. I had some lovely coffee and cinnamon roll (yes this really is in Nepal) on the roof of a newly rebuilt 3 story building that had come down during the quake.

cheers,

rob
 
Excellent advice about the benefits of going small and light. I just returned from a three-week trek to the Mustang region of Nepal, where I used a Panasonic G1 with 14-45mm lens and an Olympus 9-18mm. The latter was very handy for the interiors of temples and houses. I was able to carry the G1 around my neck in a small case all day and not have to stop and take a larger camera out of a backpack. By the way, the G1 performed flawlessly, and I was impressed by the quality of the 14-45 lens.

http://worldofdecay.blogspot.com/ (Some Nepal pictures here)
--
The Kodachromeguy
 
It would be nice to see some old pictures. Hopefully the rumors are true.

I went back to Namche in 1996, heading for the Gokyo valley. The snow stopped us. But I remember they had just got a satellite telephone in Namche. I tried to call my wife in Kathmandu but it was a poor line. That was in 1996 :)

--
'Life is short - follow your interests'
photos: http://www.staffanmalmberg.se

 
Glad to read this post. I am off to Nepal and Annapurna base camp in three weeks. I just bought an Olympus pen e-p3 to replace my Canon 50.

I know weight is killer at altitude. I will be taking two zooms 15-150, 9-18 and a couple of primes 12 mm 2.0, 20mm 1.7 and maybe the 45 1.8.
I have cpl filters for the zooms.
This whole kit is just so light compared to my normal Dslr.

My only issue is how many batteries to take. How easy was it to charge your camera? How is battery life going in the cold?
Looking forward to going. I will be there for a month.
 
Just read your message about your altitude problems around 4500m.

I had the same issues back in 2008 when on an organised trek in Nepal and back in 2005 at 5000m in Bolivia.

Our aim was to trek from Lukla out to Gokyo across Cho La pass then down to Everest base camp and back to Lukla.

In the end we headed up to Gokyo too fast, this was in part due to some of our team being on a tight timeline as they were trying for some peaks in the area as we tagged along behind them.

We managed to reach Gokyo at near 5000m but my altitude sickness was that bad and possible cerebral edema that the Guides odered me down to Machermo at once so we split off from the main party and with a spare porter we hiked off in the night down to a safer altitude. I was delirious and in massive pain with headaches, i just wanted to jump off a cliff and end it! Diomox was having no effect, i just had to get lower quickly!!

A helicopter was put on stand by to fly me to Kathmandu if got worse. But come the morning in Machermo I felt a lot better, its amazing how a little drop in height can make all the difference, but it was a massive scare, you just never know.

In the end another guide met us and organised an alternative route to Everest Base camp giving us more time to aclimatise and we eventually succeeded in summiting Kala Pattar with the old party after we met up at Gorak Shep.

So I managed the 5545m of Kala Pattar in the end but it was touch and go and was happy to get back down and continue back to Lukla.

My advice to anyone going out to Nepal to do high altitude trekking is listen to your body and don't ignore the signs or you could pay dearly.
 
After seeing some of my friends trying to do day hikes with their FF Canon or Nikon gear, I'm not surprised by your conclusions. Small = pleasure = more photos when your expending all your energy just putting one foot in front of another.

If you read some of Galen Rowells books you realize that more / bigger / 'better' gear doesn't equal more / bigger / better photos!

Can't wait to see your shots as I have a dream to trek Nepal one of these years...
--
Vern Dewit
Calgary, Alberta Canada
http://www.explor8ion.com
http://verndewit.com/
 

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