Anybody with camera profiling experience?

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Al Pacheco

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A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging, some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the results ...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his feet wet.
 
There's one or two experienced in this at Rob Galbraith's forum.

Also, Fred Miranda (who has a forum) has done this to create profiles.
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
--
The Unofficial Photographer of The Wilkinsons
http://thewilkinsons.crosswinds.net
Photography -- just another word for compromise
 
Al,

You may find that once you have an accurate profile for your camera that the results do not look the way you expected.

I use Profile Prism and the printer profile results are excellent, the camera profile results are disappointing, until you realise the reason. The camera (D60) oversaturates and applies too much contrast by default to provide the images with the visual punch and vivid colour that we have come to expect. Go out and shoot a scene, print it with a calibrated printer and then take the print to compare with the scene. You will see that the colour saturation and contrast are high, also on the D60 in my experience the red channel is weak. When you have a proper profile the image will look flat in comparison and lifeless. This is more realistic if printed and compared..

Hope this helps

Liam
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
 
Al,

Did you try aboutdigicam.com profiles? If not, I will send you a copy of "generic" profile for your D30. What are your questions?
Wojtek
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
--
http://aboutdigicam.com/forum/
'OneDee Shooter'
 
Hi wojtek,

Since I use BreezeBrowser, I do have the profile set that is included. I believe they were produced by you? The one I have tried is called EOS-D30-TrueColor-Non-Linear.icm created June 19, 2002.

I also have some others distributed by Fred Miranda and created by Ian Lyons (I may be wrong on this) using an earlier version of inCamera Pro.

Here's a few questions if you don't mind.

1) I believe you use Timo's XLProfiler to create your profiles? The rendering intent shows up as perceptual on your profile. As it does on most I've looked at. The inCamera application doesn't seem to allow that...only Relative Colormetric. I'm not totally sure why they don't allow a selection. Any thoughts on that?

2) They also don't allow a black-point setting which I thought was important.

3) When you first started your work, how did you end up checking the resulting profiles? Obviously the profile will reproduce the target you use to create the profile. But did you check it against some other standard? I may be off the wall here. I've been using ICC Inspector to view the CIE chromaticity chart which overlays the gamut of the profile. Does that make sense? Or is there a better way?

In other words, the profile I make may be flawed and I wouldn't really see the problem until a particular image demonstrates the issue.

4) The sizes of the profiles are much larger than I expected. Is that because they are all LUT? Is this a common feature of custom profiles.

5) It appears exposure has more of an impact than I originally figured. I suppose that makes sense. Did you find that an issue with Timo's application?

Thanks
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
--
http://aboutdigicam.com/forum/
'OneDee Shooter'
 
I have been profiling cameras for years and have 2 products, ColorEyes and Coloreyes 20/20 on the market. A good profile may not reproduce the target exactly but rather reproduces hues as acurately as possible but maintain pleasing contrast. How the target is gray balanced and exposed will directly affect the quality and functionality of the profile. How the immages are gray balanced will affect how well the profiule works. In any case shooting a target should be done with great care in ordewr to make a valid and multipurpose profile.
 
I did notice your product at http://www.integrated-color.com but the decision was already made by a co-worker of mine to roll the dice with inCamera Pro. Several positive reviews on the web sealed the decision.

I was told it could also do monitor profiling and that could come in useful. Well, COULD have been useful. Turns out that inCamera for Windows does NOT support the device we normally use...Gretag's Spectrolino. Why? I haven't a clue yet until I contact customer support. If it works with the Mac it should work with a Wintel box.

After just a few hours of playing with inCamera I've got a few issues. It may turn out that we made a wrong decision.

Can I ask how you determine if the profiles you make are what you consider acceptable? I mean, do you check the gamut via mathematical means or do you have a standard test image that you run?

Thanks for any info.
I have been profiling cameras for years and have 2 products,
ColorEyes and Coloreyes 20/20 on the market. A good profile may not
reproduce the target exactly but rather reproduces hues as
acurately as possible but maintain pleasing contrast. How the
target is gray balanced and exposed will directly affect the
quality and functionality of the profile. How the immages are gray
balanced will affect how well the profiule works. In any case
shooting a target should be done with great care in ordewr to make
a valid and multipurpose profile.
 
Al

I use this software and recommend it. The downside is that you will need either the GretagMacbeth Colorchecker($75) or the DC Colorchecker(~$280) before you can use it. That said, it works well and gives you the facility to generate profiles for monitors and to edit camera profiles via an interface very similar to their Editlab product. Something else I highly recommend. I have even used the edit facility to tweak scanner profiles. At a pinch you could also edit printer profiles but I wouldn't recommend trying.

Make sure you take a set of reference images for different lighting conditions.
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
 
I've read where the 24-tile ColorChecker is up to the task of providing enough data to generate a good profile so that's what I'll use. But my first attempts, basically to get a feel for the process, are pretty bad in some respects. And there are not a heck of a lot of variables so I'm a bit concerned that about what I'm going to end up with. Do you make profiles for your D60's linear mode? Or do you only use the Canon-processed mode(s). Can I ask how you set the contrast/saturation parameters in the processing software?

I've a feeling that there may not be a lot of interest in this profiling stuff but that may be because it's not exactly well defined. I'm still doing a bit of digging.

Thanks for the reply....
I use this software and recommend it. The downside is that you will
need either the GretagMacbeth Colorchecker($75) or the DC
Colorchecker(~$280) before you can use it. That said, it works well
and gives you the facility to generate profiles for monitors and to
edit camera profiles via an interface very similar to their Editlab
product. Something else I highly recommend. I have even used the
edit facility to tweak scanner profiles. At a pinch you could also
edit printer profiles but I wouldn't recommend trying.

Make sure you take a set of reference images for different lighting
conditions.
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
 
The 24 panel Colorchecker is fine. I haven't noticed any difference between profiles generated with either.

I'm surprised you got poor results first time around. I did find that I needed to profile for each lighting condition. I originally got this software for the D30 because the color accuracy was not great. The D60 is much better and doesn't need much correction.

You can build profiles for linear images. They work well but I haven't found them to give any advantage. When I convert RAW to TIF I generally use the low or normal settings for non linear images. You may need to generate profiles for specific settings, especially saturation and contrast. I never have though.

Hope this helps.
I've a feeling that there may not be a lot of interest in this
profiling stuff but that may be because it's not exactly well
defined. I'm still doing a bit of digging.

Thanks for the reply....
I use this software and recommend it. The downside is that you will
need either the GretagMacbeth Colorchecker($75) or the DC
Colorchecker(~$280) before you can use it. That said, it works well
and gives you the facility to generate profiles for monitors and to
edit camera profiles via an interface very similar to their Editlab
product. Something else I highly recommend. I have even used the
edit facility to tweak scanner profiles. At a pinch you could also
edit printer profiles but I wouldn't recommend trying.

Make sure you take a set of reference images for different lighting
conditions.
A few months ago I was asked to help document, via digital imaging,
some original artwork crafted by a small group of talented but
starving artists. It basically is a body of work including oil
paintings. pastels, and some sculpture.

After viewing a few images I made I figured it might be worth while
to try and profile my camera. Colors were less than perfect. I now
have some software, inCamera Pro by Pictographics, and intend to
find the time after the holidays to make the attempt. I still use
the D30...haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. I've tried some of
the generic profiles that are floating around and I'm not all that
happy with the results. Although how do you define happy with the
results
...one of the questions to be answered, I guess.

Has anybody on this forum tried the profiling process? I have my
share of questions and I figure we could learn a few things
together. Right now I'm busy with work, holidays and year-end
obligations but I hope to define some goals and see what develops.

I found out pretty quickly that there is not a wealth of
information on the web. A few reviews and such.

Hoping to pow-wow a bit with some color guru who has gotten his
feet wet.
 
Hello Al
... Timo's XLProfiler to create your profiles?
The rendering intent shows up as perceptual
Photoshop often shows the Perceptual intent as the default setting even if the selected profile does not have that rendering mode at all, it simply reads the Relative intent conversion from the profile and says that it is Perceptual intent. Well, they are actually the same for input devices.
The inCamera application doesn't
seem to allow that ... only Relative
It is behaving correctly, XLP profiles have relative intent. XLP profiles can be created by Saturation or by Absolute colorimetry but inside the profile the conversion is always calculated and specified by Relative (to overcome some problems that some color-management engines have, most do the relative intent correctly).
They also don't allow a black-point setting
ICC profiles (none of them) do not allow nor deny blackpoint setting, that is up to the user at the post-processing session. The XLP profiler does not allow to clip the blackpoint (so there is no blackpoint adjustment in the XLP), this is the only proper way to write a profiler, however XLP does make sure that the dark end will reproduce accurately, there are other ways to do that than the crude blackpoint clipping.
how did you end up checking the resulting profiles?
When the created profile is Attaced to the target image that was used for creating the profile then if the on-screen appearance is an accurate representation of the actual target then the profile is very good.

There are however other profile quality issues, most importantly one has to evaluate if the profile is clipping the grayrange. This is very simply esst to do just by Attaching the profile to a gray test CGI that has the 256 gray pathces from R=G=B=0 to R=G=B=255 and then converting the data to a linear working-space, by inspecting with the eye-dropper in Photoshop one can easily see if the profile is clipping at either end of the range. XLP profiles do not clip but they are using 12-bit TRCs (where most of the commercial profilers only write 8-bit TRCs) so the eye-dropper that is also using the 8-bit gradation even if the data is in the 16-bit/c mode will give erroneus reading, therefore in order to see if there is separaration when using XLP profiles one has to use the Levels or Curves dialog to scale the converted image, once for the dark end and once for the light end.
been using ICC Inspector to view the CIE
chromaticity chart ... is there a better way?
The gamut of a tri-chromatic device is a 3 dimensional volume (somewhat like a 3 sided pyramid), not a 2 dimensional area so yes there are better ways, but such sw are rather expensive and I've only seen such sw for the Mac OS not for Windows.
the profile I make may be flawed and I wouldn't
really see the problem until a particular image
demonstrates the issue.
Without profiles each and every image you take is flawed. If a profile does not clip the dark nor the light end then the profile is good for all the images. One issue with profiles is the whitepoint, many people are using profiles that were created for Daylight (sunlight) and they post-process any WB correction if needed. The other way to overcome this is to create a lot of profiles for all the possible illumination conditions but that is a little bit too much of work considering that the WB correction is a very easy post-process operation.
The sizes of the profiles are much larger than
I expected. Is that because they are all LUT?
ICC profiles can have 1 dimensional LUTs and/or 3 dimemensional LUTS, the lattter is called cLUT (Color look up table) and the former are transfer curves (TRCs).

Profiles that use 3 dimension LUTs are usually very large say from 300kB to several megabytes, these are crude/coarse profiles even if they are extremely large because they actually do not convert, they are just conversion tables and rely heavily on interpolation both at the profile creation phase as well as when the profiles are used. The result of the interpolations is that the amount of the individual colors in the images are strongly reduced after the profile conversion, this can be easily checked by Assigning the profile to a test CGI that has e.g. the 16.7 million RGB colors of the 8-bit/c mode and then converting that to a linear working space and counting the remaining individual colors (can be done e.g. with the PaintShopPro, Photoshop does not have such a tool).

E.g. XLP writes about 25kB profiles, it has 12-bit/c TRCs on R, G and B channels followed by a 3x3 gamut matrix (that has 16-bit/c gradation). This kind of profile does specify the actual conversion, it does not stretch/tear the data by interpolation and it does not reduce the amount of color in the image in huge quantities after the profile conversion.
It appears exposure has more of an impact than I originally
figured. ... Did you find that an issue with Timo's application?
XLP does a lot of work in order to overcome the problems of under or over exposed target shots. With what ever profiler the profile quality always suffer in case the target shot is underexposed (histogram is not full), with many profilers the profile quality suffer also if the target shot was overexposed. With all the profilers perfect exposure (histogram is full) of the target shot always results in the best quality profiles.

XLP ignores overexposed and underexposed pathces of the target so it can end up with rather good profile in both cases (especially in the case of overexposure) but naturally if the histogram of the target shot is not full then that portion of the acquire device behavioural where we have no information at all can not be profiled well, not with any profiler (it can only be guesses). The profile structure that XLP is using however is much better in "quessing" the behavioral in that "no data" portion.

Timo Autiokari http://www.aim-dtp.net
 
Thanks for the reply Timo,

I'm going to take some time to digest your points.

Often times when I find myself using a new technique I have a whole bunch of questions but don't want to go crashing about like the proverbial chicken minus his head. I've only just started my attempts at profiling and thus I'm taking baby steps. I fully intend to try your XLProfiler but I have to get some new Q60R1 targets. The ones I have are too old. (Actually got them from Kodak).

My feelings so far about inCamera Pro? The software is very spartan and seems to be a bit thin on the user-friendly side. Their e-mail support is nothing less than superb. And their documentation is extremely well put together.

Clipping the highlights is on my short list. It's very obvious to me with my first attempts and that's why I wonder about the rendering intent. I don't mean in Photoshop...I mean the rendering intent that I read with an application I found online, ICCINSPECT.

Once again, thanks for your comments. Looks like you've been swimming in the deep end of the pool for some time.

Regards,
Al Pacheco
 
...lay it on the artwork, set the WB accordingly, and then shoot. That will take care of the WB. If you're not happy with the result, by all means go ahead and profile your D30, but that's a huge amount of effort for (IMHO) very limited benefit.
--
D60, 16-35/2.8L, 28-135 IS, 550EX
 
If I fall flat with generating a good profile.

I have, rightly or wrongly, been assigning sRGB to my images. Then doing a bit of editing, without the sort of consistency that I really desire.

You are correct in saying that getting the neutrals via a grey balance is important...and may be good enough. But I'm not ready to cop out yet.
...lay it on the artwork, set the WB accordingly, and then shoot.
That will take care of the WB. If you're not happy with the
result, by all means go ahead and profile your D30, but that's a
huge amount of effort for (IMHO) very limited benefit.
--
D60, 16-35/2.8L, 28-135 IS, 550EX
 
I have this program and while I love its capabilities for profiling printers, it is less than fantastic for creating a camera profile. I spent a lot of time dinking around with producing profiles for the D60, but in the end the sRGB appears to capture the gamut best.
Al,

Have you considered Profile prism? It is from the makers of QImage.

The URL is: http://www.ddisoftware.com/prism/

Good luck!

Mark

--
Truly great madness cannot be achieved without significant
intelligence.
Henrik Tikkanen
 
Can I ask how you determine if the profiles you make are what you
consider acceptable? I mean, do you check the gamut via
mathematical means or do you have a standard test image that you
run?

I use a simple test. I see how long it takes for me to get the color I want, or need in the editing stage. The better the profile, the less time I spend. You can spend hours comparing patches and reference files but in the end that won't tell you much. How the profile actually works with...work is what matters.
 

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