Great Bustard
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Indeed.Seems that you are talking about "capture exposure". For the total end-to-end exposure (including brightness on print), one might want to do high-key or low-key presentation. Depending on how the artist plans to present the print, it might make sense to adjust capture exposure accordingly.To me correct exposure means that the elements of the image that you want to capture are within the dynamic range of the camera. Now that means for some image and camera combinations there is no correct exposure- since the image exceeds the DR capability of the camera (Bracketed exposures are allowed but might not be appropriate for a dynamically changing image). In other cases there is a range of exposures that meet my criteria. In that case you might as well optimize the quality of the image. For a still subject that may mean getting the most light possible, but for a dynamic scene it may mean trading off between DOF, motion blur, and noise.
Yes.If you capture images of fireworks at night, a "perfect" AE will probably fail miserably. Rather, you want to keep the small, bright sources of light within the sensor saturation point, and live with large parts of the background landscape being drowned in sensor noise.
Bingo.If, on the other hand, you are taking photos of your kid playing at the beach with harsh highlights in the waves or directly into the sun, it might make sense to allow them to clip while placing the kid sensibly within the DR window of your camera.
Right on the money. You two have given the perfect response!Which is to say, expose (in camera) so as to maximize the quality of the parts in the image that is going to be most critical in the final print/display. If that is easy, concentrate on avoiding clipping and noise for the less important image extremes. Adjust final brightness to taste and according to the capabilities of your printer/display (assuming that you use raw format).