1dMk4 wide angle lens suggestions

i was wondering what wide-angle lenses you would recommend for a 1dMk4. i have the 17-40L but was looking for wider. i recently used the sigma 8-16 f/4.5, which vignetted from 8-10.5mm but would really like a f/2.8 if possible. the tokina 11-16 f/2.8 looks promising but it says it for the rebel and x0d series.

the 16-35L is not worth it to me since i already have the 17-40.
--
Tim Devine,

owner of The Magic in Pixels.com, a site by Disney Theme Park Photographers for Disney Theme Park Photographers.

The Bower 14 is said to be a sharp lens. It needs some distortion correction as I have read, but otherwise a great lens. The Canon 14 mk2 is also a good lens but very expensive.

Anyway, I have the Bower on my wish list but for a 1DS-mk3. I also find 17 too narrow sometimes even on FF.

timned88 said:

i was wondering what wide-angle lenses you would recommend for a 1dMk4. i have the 17-40L but was looking for wider. i recently used the sigma 8-16 f/4.5, which vignetted from 8-10.5mm but would really like a f/2.8 if possible. the tokina 11-16 f/2.8 looks promising but it says it for the rebel and x0d series.

the 16-35L is not worth it to me since i already have the 17-40.
--
Tim Devine,

owner of The Magic in Pixels.com, a site by Disney Theme Park Photographers for Disney Theme Park Photographers.

Click to expand...

--
When you can't focus, nothing else matters
Once you can, everything else does.

http://ben-egbert.smugmug.com/

Ben

http://www.flickr.com/groups/canondslr/discuss/72157604422834954/
--
http://www.pbase.com/dc9mm

Are you sure you aren't just dismayed with the 17mm side of the 17-40? I tried one once and it didn't seem to 'cook' until about 24mm. Give a look at the 17mm TSE or the Zeiss 18mm. Both are sharp and the Z is very contrasty.

You might also consider the Sigma 12-24 II. It's also nearly double price of the original but the APS-H cuts off the worst of the lens.

-Mark
--
http://www.pbase.com/markland

thanks for the suggestions... def. not frustration at 17mm- want something wider. the sigma 12-24 mk2 is a candidate...

would the tokina 11-16 work?

i shot most of this gallery with the sigma 8-16 and like the look of the photos... but it had to be zoomed to about 10.5mm to remove all vignetting and it isn't f/2.8.

http://www.themagicinpixels.com/gallery3/index.php/Disney-s-Hollywood-Studios/Sunset-Boulevard/Tower-of-Terror/Tower-of-Terror-2011-10



--
Tim Devine,

owner of The Magic in Pixels.com, a site by Disney Theme Park Photographers for Disney Theme Park Photographers.

I would suggest the Samyang (Rokion, Bower, etc) 14mm f/2.8. On the 1D Mk4 its equivalent is 18mm on FF. I use it on my Mk 4 as well as 1Ds Mk2 and it is extraordinary sharp even at f/2.8! It does have mustache distortion but PT lens easily takes that out. I have a small write up and examples at http://www.pbase.com/dbehrens/samyang14mm&page=all .

Another interesting WA option is the 15mm Fisheye. The 1.3 crop takes out a lot of the FE distortion, which gives it a nice perspective. I have examples at http://www.pbase.com/dbehrens/15fe .
Dave

Nice write up, thanks for posting it. How do you control leaning buildings other than using a level camera? Has it been a problem?
--
When you can't focus, nothing else matters
Once you can, everything else does.

http://ben-egbert.smugmug.com/

Ben

you can use distortion correction filter in photoshop to easily fix the leaning effect.
--
Tim Devine,

owner of The Magic in Pixels.com, a site by Disney Theme Park Photographers for Disney Theme Park Photographers.

I use a Sigma 12-24 on mine

--
gustavo

http://www.pbase.com/gustabod

better bang for the buck

canon 10-22mm modified ( change the back plastic cover on the lens, with the same of old canon 35mm f2 For example ) you need five minutes no more..

no vignetting from 13-14mm to 22mm but if you shot at 10mm the mirron touch the lens and ( don't worry ,..) and you need to shut the camera.
quality is very good and this combo is very light..
or

the superlative tokina 11-16mm f2.8, you don't have the problem of the canon ..but not to much focal lenght , only 13-16mm without vingnetting
and
with this 2 solution YOU CAN USE A FILTER...and this is really a life saver..
with the sigma 12-24mm NO ( without big modification of the lens..)

good luck !
Ad
I use canon 10-22mm on my MK IV
this is better of the expensive canon 16-35mm that I own and more wide !!!

I've been using the sigma 12-24 Mk I and then Mk II, on my 5d's, and both lenses satisfied me a lot: the first one for the lack of distortion, the second one for the sharpness at maximum apertures and more manageable vignetting (although I'm still waiting for its LR profile). The main issue with Mk II is that it distorts more at lower focal lengths (barrel), to the point that I was almost tempted to give it back but I didn't because I'm lazy. I hope the LR profile will do a good job with correcting the MkII distortion. So if you care a lot about the f-number and sharpness, the Mk II is better than I. If you care more about price and straight lines (especially architecture things), perhaps the old Mk I has still something to show.
Luc
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http://www.pbase.com/duca_v2

really good suggestions, folks. thanks. i am leaning toward the tokina (if i do anything at all) or just taking my 5d2 and using the 17-40 on that body. the tokina at 13mm will be 16.9 on the 1d4 so maybe that doesn't make much sense? i will do more research...
--
Tim Devine,

owner of The Magic in Pixels.com, a site by Disney Theme Park Photographers for Disney Theme Park Photographers.

On a recent trip to Venice, I used the 15mm Fisheye, and eliminated the FE effect using the distortion correction selections in in DPP 3.10. Just remember to keep the camera level, and you will get very good results. One example shot while sitting in a gondola is at:

http://fgallc.smugmug.com/GeneralGalleries/Miscellaneous/Italy/13868516_md5Rn7#1017164383_AVbxD-X3-LB

A little more work could have gotten even better distortion correction.