How much micro adjustment is too much?

Just got a 7D, upgraded from a 50D. Have two lenses, the 10-22 & 24-105. Never noticed a focus problem with the 50D.

I am presently away and brought the 7D with me. Nothing critical to shoot and I figured I would just put it through its paces. So, I haven't been able to download and really look at the pics but using the viewfinder, the 24-105 is very very soft. The 10-22 seems ok.

I played around with microadjustment and -5 seems to improve the pics somewhat.

When I get home I plan to do a more scientific and through test but is there a point where it doesn't make sense to bother and just send the camera and lens to Canon for adjustment? How much is too much micro adjustment and when should the camera and lens be sent back?

Also, how long does Canon take to do this and get it back to you?

Loggedonnow said:

Just got a 7D, upgraded from a 50D. Have two lenses, the 10-22 & 24-105. Never noticed a focus problem with the 50D.

I am presently away and brought the 7D with me. Nothing critical to shoot and I figured I would just put it through its paces. So, I haven't been able to download and really look at the pics but using the viewfinder, the 24-105 is very very soft. The 10-22 seems ok.

I played around with microadjustment and -5 seems to improve the pics somewhat.

When I get home I plan to do a more scientific and through test but is there a point where it doesn't make sense to bother and just send the camera and lens to Canon for adjustment? How much is too much micro adjustment and when should the camera and lens be sent back?

Also, how long does Canon take to do this and get it back to you?

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Try this prior to sending the camera for adjustments.

http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html

You'll get lots of opinions on that. What's probably more important is whether MFA gives you consistent results, ideally across multiple FLs if it's a zoom. I have a 100-400L that requires a +12 MFA, which is probably right on the edge of being acceptable, and by all rights, I probably should have sent it back to Canon for adjustment. However, that said, with that adjustment, the lens focuses beautifully and consistently across its entire range. So, rather than send it back to Canon, I figured I'd simply live with the issue, since it's not impacting my ability to get good results with the lens.

So, it's really up to you to decide what's acceptable and whether you want to take the time to send it back (with no real guarantee that it will come back properly adjusted, I might add). If your lens does not focus consistently across its range before or after MFA adjustment, I would not even hesitate to send it back. MFA will not correct that problem.

Loggedonnow said:

Just got a 7D, upgraded from a 50D. Have two lenses, the 10-22 & 24-105. Never noticed a focus problem with the 50D.

I am presently away and brought the 7D with me. Nothing critical to shoot and I figured I would just put it through its paces. So, I haven't been able to download and really look at the pics but using the viewfinder, the 24-105 is very very soft. The 10-22 seems ok.

I played around with microadjustment and -5 seems to improve the pics somewhat.

When I get home I plan to do a more scientific and through test but is there a point where it doesn't make sense to bother and just send the camera and lens to Canon for adjustment? How much is too much micro adjustment and when should the camera and lens be sent back?

Also, how long does Canon take to do this and get it back to you?

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I agree that it's your call. I chose to use the adjustment feature included in the camera for this purpose rather than be without it for weeks, and pay probably hundreds in shipping and insurance, despite my positive history with Canon Service. I haven't figured out the downside, but I suppose if you had to go to the max to get it right, and were worried that the next body might be out of range for adjustment, it might be worth sending back.

And if you're expecting to downgrade to a non-adjustable body in the future it would be a good idea.

When I get home, I will be able to see how good or bad the pics really are and will do a better test for sure.

The shipping costs and the wait is a factor but if the results are better, it is still the best way to go. But, if they don't make it any better, then thats another story.

I didn't notice the problem with the 50D so I am wondering if the 7D is the problem and not the lens!

That is why the camera has MFA. I have one lens that is set to +8. Find the adjustment that works and don't worry...

Loggedonnow said:

Just got a 7D, upgraded from a 50D. Have two lenses, the 10-22 & 24-105. Never noticed a focus problem with the 50D.

I am presently away and brought the 7D with me. Nothing critical to shoot and I figured I would just put it through its paces. So, I haven't been able to download and really look at the pics but using the viewfinder, the 24-105 is very very soft. The 10-22 seems ok.

I played around with microadjustment and -5 seems to improve the pics somewhat.

When I get home I plan to do a more scientific and through test but is there a point where it doesn't make sense to bother and just send the camera and lens to Canon for adjustment? How much is too much micro adjustment and when should the camera and lens be sent back?

Also, how long does Canon take to do this and get it back to you?

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--
Bruce

Jerry-astro said:

You'll get lots of opinions on that.

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Very true

Jerry-astro said:

What's probably more important is whether MFA gives you consistent results, ideally across multiple FLs if it's a zoom.

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Keep in mind the same MA setting may not be best through the full FL range. hypothetically it could be +5 at 100mm, +9 at 250mm and +11 at 400mm, but as Jerry said yoru results should be reproducible. Then it is just figuring out what you want to use as your setting - usually the FL you use most, sometimes a compromise.

Jerry-astro said:

I have a 100-400L that requires a +12 MFA, which is probably right on the edge of being acceptable, ...

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Just for contrast, I have a 7D and my copy of the 100-400 requires a -5 MA.

I assigned -2 for my copy of the 70-200 2.8 IS II, but I am not sure if it really needs it (best between -1 and -2).

Jerry-astro said:

and by all rights, I probably should have sent it back to Canon for adjustment. However, that said, with that adjustment, the lens focuses beautifully and consistently across its entire range. So, rather than send it back to Canon, I figured I'd simply live with the issue, since it's not impacting my ability to get good results with the lens.

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One other point for consderation. The MA settings are affected by small variances of both the body and the lens. I would expect my same lenses on another body might require a different MA setting, perhaps as large as + / - 5 from what I now apply.

--

I started in the 50's - my first picture was taken with a Leica and hooked me for life. I no longer use my Leicas, but I am still taking pictures. Some things never change.

The way I read it (coming from an Oly background for some years) is that, if the camera has the adjustment function, it's probably needed. I have a 7D and 15-85 which needs a couple of points of adjustment (the combo forward focussed out of the box, not by much but enough to notice) and the adjustment buzzer on my manual glass (zuiko 50mm, Tamron SP300) was not quite centred either (may be the adaptor chips but hey ho). I'm soon to get some L glass and will be interested to see how that does but, all in all, I'm happy enough to experiment with all of the settings to see what works best and not. I do take a lot of notes though, just for audit trail and recovery purposes.

Not a direct answer to your question but here is a chart based on MA numbers in a recent thread:

+ or - more than 20 would be too much :0

I have 6 lenses of those 6 lenses one the 100-400L needs +6 to make it shine, and it needs the same +6 on another 7D body. Which does rather point to the lens being at fault.

Having adjusted for this lens and checked it at different focal lengths and found that the +6 holds true throughout its range I am happy to live with it.

I could send lens and camera's to Canon for adjustment and possibly open up a whole lot of heartache for myself.

So I will stick with doing it myself.

In the end it's up to you, if it is just one lens out of your kit and the correction amount works at all focal lengths, if a zoom, then I would leave it. If you have other lenses which are also a problem then it might be prudent to let Canon sort it out.
--
Phil

I wondered why the ball kept getting bigger, then it hit me.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/philthebirdbrain/

When I got home, downloaded and viewed on the PC, they didn't look bad at all. There were a couple shot before the adjustment that could have used the adjustment but anything afterwards is ok. I played with -5/-6 and that seems to be good. Will probably keep it on -5.

I suppose if the adjustment is there, the need for it is real and why open up another can of worms.

I'm glad your photos turned out OK. The logic that "if MA is on the camera it must be needed" is false, though. First, how many consumer items can you think of that have features that are useless, at least to you? Second, all my lenses are sharper and focus better on my 7D without using MA than they do on my XSi, which has no MA.

FF

By being able to MA the camera , it can have looser tolerances .

Almost all new cameras will have a MA . The lower end mite not - canon figuring anyone who buys will not know it it is front / rear focusing .

My 17-55 and 70-200 are fine , Have not checked the 10-22 most shots are at 15 or more feet , so DOF takes care of it [ I think ]

In macro mode the Sigma 180 needs + 9 but non macro seems ok . So it is set at +9 on camera .

From what I have read you should check at the most used FL and set for that , but zooms are all over the place .

This kind of comes down to knowing your lenses . My 35-350 back focused from about 35 to 60 then sort of leveled out and started front focusing at about 300 mm .

So you learn to lock focus and recompose . [ On XTI ] I still use it and the 180 , 28-135 on the XTI . Knowing what they do helps a lot

The 10-22 , 17-55 and 70-200 mk II on 7D . Since I got the 2X III , I don't use the 180 on the 7D anymore .

Anything under 15 either way , I would just use unless all lenses when same way - like + 8 , 10 , 12 or minus - then I would have camera reset .
--
1st it's a hobby
7D gripped XTI gripped
Canon - efs 10-22 , 17-55 , ef 18-55 IS
EF 28-90 , 28 @ 2.8 , 50 @1.8 , 28-135 IS
L's 35-350 , 70-200 MK II IS
Quantaray lens 70-300 macro
Sigma 135 - 400 , 180 MACRO
2X III , Life Size converter
KSM filters for all
kenko auto tubes , EF 25