I bought my D90 last year & the Nikon transfer program was included as part of the package. The program would transfer images directly from camera to PC. There 's no need to remove the SD card in doing so. Any duplicated images would not be transferred.
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New to digital. I have some questions.
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AbjectEvolution
Active member
What about ISO? Is that something usually chosen manually of is the auto feature sufficient?
I always choose, because I want to know what it is ahead of time.
tclune
Senior Member
First, manual mode is usually an affectation. It seems to have become popular mostly from Brian Peterson's book on exposure. I find his insistance on it and the popularity of it in general just plain mysterious. I find Aperture or Shutter mode the more reasonable choices for the most part -- you have the same level of control, but less hassle. You set the aperture you want (in A) or the speed you want (in T) and let the camera take care of the setting that is less interesting to you. If it is too low, adjust the ISO to get a speed (A) or aperture (T) that you find appropriate. I also find it quite natural to adjust EV up or down as needed -- that's how I think of the action. If you really like looking at dim digital exposure meters in your viewfinder (or are a fan of "Kentucky windage" for exposure), manual may appeal to you. Otherwise, it just seems more clunky. The one exception for me is shooting flash photography, which I normally do in manual mode. And, when I'm just wandering around, I often leave my camera in Program mode, in case I stumble upon something that I want a quick shot of before I have time to think about settings at all -- might as well let the camera take a guess as just default to whatever was right for the last shot...
Manual focusing, for the most part, is downright perverse. Modern lenses aren't built for it. They have short "throws" that are optimized for rapid focusing by the AF motor instead of the old manual lenses that had a more leisurely threading for allowing you to "sneak up on" the optimal focus while twisting the lens barrel. The one thing that seems to demand manual focusing is macro shooting. In that case, the depth of field is so narrow that you just can't focus on the specific aspect of the object that you want in sharpest focus without doing it manually. For that, Live Mode zoomed to maximum gain is your best bet with digital cameras. Macro lenses seem to have more leisurely focusing threading than other AF lenses, which makes them less awkward to focus this way. But the time and effort one needs to devote to macro is not something most of us would want to devote to the rest of our shooting.
See above. The advantage of Live View is when manually focusing, you can magnify the view of the focal point to make focusing easier to accomplsh than with the standard viewfinder on a digital camera, which lacks the split prism that film cameras always had.
Micoy
New member
I buy my new Sony Apha in japan last week but i had a problem cause its set up mode in japanese text thats my problem now on how to set up it in english....anyone can help me please...thank you
tclune
Senior Member
Sony Alpha is a family of cameras, not a model. To find a manual for your camera, go to Google, type in "Sony Alpha [your model name here] manual" and press enter. You will see how to download the manual that you are looking for.
Walking around while using manual exposure works best if you simply remain aware of the light and keep the exposure set to a reasonable value. To me, changing the shutter speed is no more or less time consuming, cumbersome, or clunky than changing the EV.
ChrisLumix
Senior Member
I find that ISO is something I want to be in control of, so for example I will set the maximum to a value I know is good in the camera, not noisy. I can always override it in poor light if I want to.
However, within a particular range - say 80 to 400 - I'm happy to let the camera select, though I always check to see what's been chosen.
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Panas0n!c Lum!x FZ-38 (The word "LOSE" is spelled "LOSE"! It's not spelled "LOOSE", ok?)
AbjectEvolution
Active member
Could someone explain the practical uses of exposure compensation and in relation to different modes? Thanks.
MusicDoctorDJ
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Once you've downloaded your images from the memory card to your computer, don't use the computer to erase the images, but 'format' the memory card in the camera to clear the card!
This should solve your problem.
You'll find 'format' in the toolbox menu of your D90.
Actually, you really should get a card reader and use that instead of using the camera and USB cable every time.
It is much faster, safer and easier . . .
And you'll wonder why you've been using the camera (and wasting the camera's battery) for this procedure.
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J. D.
Colorado
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If you are taking pictures and they're coming out either too dark, or too light, then you change the exposure compensation to adjust.
ChrisLumix
Senior Member
The different modes don't really impact on this. What the practical use is, is to override the camera's desire to turn your picture (or relevant portion of it) into a correctly exposed mid grey.
So, snow should be blinding white, but your camera wants to make it grey. So you turn the EV to (usually) +2 to "over expose". Result? White snow!
That's just one example, but anytime you want to "correct" the camera's natural instincts (maybe using the histogram to decide) you would tweak the EV.
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Panas0n!c Lum!x FZ-38 (The word "LOSE" is spelled "LOSE"! It's not spelled "LOOSE", ok?)
AbjectEvolution
Active member
Thanks... I need to learn about the histogram.
I think your assumption that most good photographers shoot in manual is just wrong. It doesn't really give you much more control than the P, A and S modes, because in those modes you still have exposure compensation, and in P you have program shift.
The viewfinders in autofocus SLRs don't allow for easy, accurate manual focus. It's a big pain.
I might catch some flak for this, but I must say that I've always disliked autofocus SLRs, and DSLRs more so. I've always had problems getting them to focus on what I want, and with DSLRs, the viewfinders are typically tiny and dark. I'm so much happier with my Micro Four Thirds cameras than I've ever been with any autofocus SLR.
Live view is great when your camera is on a tripod and you want extremely precise manual focus. Why? Because typically live view will give you an option to magnify the live image, and focus based on that. So for example, live view is definitely the way to go fo macro photography.
No. With B&W film, since the film cannot capture color, you control the translation from red, green and blue light into gray tones by putting color filters on the lens. With digital, the camera does capture color, so your control that when you convert the color image to black and white.
maryannhernandez
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We had the same prob. anyone can help us?
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