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Things I'm discovering daily with the X100...

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cheddargav

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1, The AF is good in 90% of situations
2, When the AF struggles I switch to the EVF
3, I like the EVF more than I thought I would (tho I will always prefer OVF)
4, I'm shooting more landscape portraits
5, I like landscape portraits
6, It really is nice and lightweight
7, I like shooting with the X100
8, Colour JPEGS look nice

9, B&W JPEGS aren't contrasty enough, which is a shame. I'll convert in Lightroom
10, I like having it near me (weird? But true)

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rattymouse said:
Brian Mosley said:
Also, AF-C works best for portrait focus/recompose at f2.
Click to expand...
How is this possible? With continuous autofocus, don't you lose focus when recomposing?
Click to expand...
I don't know - try it and see. OK - more playing has revealed that AF-C will 'pre-focus' occasionally and once focus has been achieved, will hunt a shorter distance... so for portraits, when you've focused on the eye once, refocus will be faster than AF-S or M which seem to use different CDAF algorithms.

I'm getting more optimistic that I'm going to be able to get great portraits with this camera - one of the frustrations I was having initially using Manual focus / recompose has now dissolved. I am very, very happy :D
Member said:
Member said:
Screen protector, lens hood and high quality UV filter should all be factored into a purchase (mine are all on order).
Click to expand...
I use none of these items.
Click to expand...
Cool, I'm dreading the appearance of a scratch on the back screen before I can get my Invisible Shield applied... have you tried shooting towards the sun yet?

Cheers

Brian
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In fact it flares more readily than any of my lenses - top shelf Nikon (without hoods), Lumix, and LX3 and 5 compacts. I shoot against the light quite often and usually like flare and ghosting, but the haloing rendering of the X100 isn't as aesthetically pleasing to me. Maybe it's time for a hood, something I prefer to avoid with smaller cameras though I always use them with my D700.

Yep, 35mm is not going to be flattering at anything tighter than a full body comp.
 
1. Sponsors and suppliers, spend your time and resources to get X100 in stock again quick, instead of hiring someone to trash this awesome cam and turn customers to other products.

2. We are full of stock in Hong Kong. We will probably heard in the beginning lack of supply because of Japan Tsunami but let me tell you bulk shipment was far earlier than that date.

3. AF does struggle when you are trying in dark and a blank wall, or close distance without switch on macro mode.
 
Brooks Lester said:
In fact it flares more readily than any of my lenses - top shelf Nikon (without hoods), Lumix, and LX3 and 5 compacts. I shoot against the light quite often and usually like flare and ghosting, but the haloing rendering of the X100 isn't as aesthetically pleasing to me. Maybe it's time for a hood, something I prefer to avoid with smaller cameras though I always use them with my D700.

Yep, 35mm is not going to be flattering at anything tighter than a full body comp.
Click to expand...
Yes, the flare from the X100's lens is very bad. So much for the so called "Super" EBC coating. I've seen no evidence that Fuji's over priced hood does anything to stop this very ugly flare. Easily the worst part of the X100 is the flare.

--

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I got the hood only because he did it cheaper (oh, and the price for the hood is stupid).
Brian Mosley said:
Also, AF-C works best for portrait focus/recompose at f2.

Screen protector, lens hood and high quality UV filter should all be factored into a purchase (mine are all on order).

Cheers

Brian
--
Join our free worldwide support network here :
http://www.ukphotosafari.org/join-the-ukpsg/
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Keep up with me here : http://twitter.com/alert_bri
Click to expand...
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I agree the flare in any kind of backlight is terrible. But I disagree that a lens hood makes no difference. When I used it in backlit situations I found it helped tremendously. Buy the cheap metal knockoffs. They are really well made. Fuji definitely needs to do something about the coating they are using.
rattymouse said:
Brooks Lester said:
In fact it flares more readily than any of my lenses - top shelf Nikon (without hoods), Lumix, and LX3 and 5 compacts. I shoot against the light quite often and usually like flare and ghosting, but the haloing rendering of the X100 isn't as aesthetically pleasing to me. Maybe it's time for a hood, something I prefer to avoid with smaller cameras though I always use them with my D700.

Yep, 35mm is not going to be flattering at anything tighter than a full body comp.
Click to expand...
Yes, the flare from the X100's lens is very bad. So much for the so called "Super" EBC coating. I've seen no evidence that Fuji's over priced hood does anything to stop this very ugly flare. Easily the worst part of the X100 is the flare.

--

http://fujifilmimages.aminus3.com/
Click to expand...
 
For whatever reason, direct sunlight does not cause the horrible flare that is usually seen with the X100 when shooting into smaller lights. So your particular example is not bad. However, in low light situations (which are far more common for most people) the flare is beyond awful. Truly objectionable. And I still state that no hood will make even a slight improvement. This flare is baked into the lens, probably a compromise to make the lens so small. I have countless examples like the one below.



--

http://fujifilmimages.aminus3.com/
 
rattymouse said:
Brian Mosley said:
Also, AF-C works best for portrait focus/recompose at f2.
Click to expand...
How is this possible? With continuous autofocus, don't you lose focus when recomposing?
Click to expand...
AF-C on the X100 is not "real" continous focusing. It only mimics (and enhances) the battery draining consequences of real continous focusing by continously refocusing BEFORE you press the shutter button. Once you half-press the shutter button, focus is locked, just as it is with AF-S.

What it really is is an alternative focusing algorithm that is superior to the one used for AF-S in some situations (especially low light and low contrast subjects).

--
Apteryx
 
rattymouse said:
However, in low light situations (which are far more common for most people) the flare is beyond awful. Truly objectionable.
Click to expand...
Agin, I have to disagree. Certainly there are cameras that are less prone to flare, but I think "beyond awful" and "Truly objectionable" are mere internet hyperbole.





has some flare, but its not that bad. The picture doesn't work, but thats a composition problem, not because of a little flare.

And frankly, I'll accept a little flare for a camera that is small enough to take with me that still gives me handheld results like this SOOC at night.




Member said:
And I still state that no hood will make even a slight improvement.
Click to expand...
Of course not. The purpose of the hood is to cut down on light entering the lens from an angle. It isn't going to do anything for light that is coming straight in.

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/michaelthek/
 
1. how can you have seen evidence that the hood doesn't work if you've not used one?

2. there are oodles of better hoods/adapters available for less than $30 total -- people who purchase the fuji item are interested in a fashion accessory, bot a camera.

3. hood is very helpful for several reasons, flare/low contrast avoidance being only one of them.

4. i'm not sure you know what a hood is for.
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Apteryx6 said:
rattymouse said:
Brian Mosley said:
Also, AF-C works best for portrait focus/recompose at f2.
Click to expand...
How is this possible? With continuous autofocus, don't you lose focus when recomposing?
Click to expand...
AF-C on the X100 is not "real" continous focusing. It only mimics (and enhances) the battery draining consequences of real continous focusing by continously refocusing BEFORE you press the shutter button. Once you half-press the shutter button, focus is locked, just as it is with AF-S.

What it really is is an alternative focusing algorithm that is superior to the one used for AF-S in some situations (especially low light and low contrast subjects).

--
Apteryx
Click to expand...
I see. Thanks for the tip!

--

http://fujifilmimages.aminus3.com/
 
cheddargav said:
9, B&W JPEGS aren't contrasty enough, which is a shame. I'll convert in Lightroom
--
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Click to expand...
Try adjusting the Shadow Tone and Highlight Tone to Mid Hard/Hard and use B/W w/ red filter. I find that it increases the contrast a bit ( kind of like adjusting the curve to "S" via pp.

--
Regards,
Daniel
 
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