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Bracketing Help!

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RunOrDie226

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Hey everyone.

I am wanting to take my first HDR picture. I want to use my bracketing feature in my D7000 but it can only take 3 pictures....

What if I want to take mroe than 3 pictures, what can and should I do?
Also, would taking more pictures be any benefitial?

Thanks!
 
RunOrDie226 said:
Hey everyone.

I am wanting to take my first HDR picture. I want to use my bracketing feature in my D7000 but it can only take 3 pictures....

What if I want to take mroe than 3 pictures, what can and should I do?
Also, would taking more pictures be any benefitial?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Bracket at at -+1 then set EC to -3 and take 3 shots...then set EC to 0 and take 3 shots...then set EC to +3 and take 3 shots The result will be you have 9 shots at -4 to +4 You can work out something different by setting the bracket EV different. Only takes a few seconds to set up.
 
meter in A or S mode then switch to M, adjust for the numbers it gave you then use exposure compensation
 
I'd also turn off AF and use Manual Focus if you are planning to do an overlay in HDR.

Sometimes the AF focus point will change a bit and your overlay will show some weird trees limbs that don't quite line up. I just had that issue yesterday and it looked like the wind was blowing the leaves and limbs on the overlay, but the focus point had moved in ViewNX when I looked at the five bracketed files. Maybe the VR shifted the overall area a bit too. Whatever it was, the overlay looked blurry on some shots when magnified to 75% or more.

I prefer to set the exposures manually now as I sometime forget to Un-Bracket the camera and then I go about shooting stuff normally and the exposures are all over the place as the camera is bracketing single shots until I notice the display and/or the results. You'll kick yourself silly for forgetting to get it out of that mode.

Mack
 
Thanks for the help!

But fro mthe first reply, what is the point of taking pictures of EC at 0? Isn't that just normal exposure (correct expousure). is taking 3 pictures at that setting necessary?
 
GMack said:
I'd also turn off AF and use Manual Focus if you are planning to do an overlay in HDR.

Sometimes the AF focus point will change a bit and your overlay will show some weird trees limbs that don't quite line up. I just had that issue yesterday and it looked like the wind was blowing the leaves and limbs on the overlay, but the focus point had moved in ViewNX when I looked at the five bracketed files. Maybe the VR shifted the overall area a bit too. Whatever it was, the overlay looked blurry on some shots when magnified to 75% or more.
Click to expand...
Do you mean turn AF off AFTER it has AF'd to stop it AF'ing again a bit differently on subsequent shots, for example, you AF only the first shot before switching to MF?
 
RunOrDie226 said:
Thanks for the help!

But fro mthe first reply, what is the point of taking pictures of EC at 0? Isn't that just normal exposure (correct expousure). is taking 3 pictures at that setting necessary?
Click to expand...
It doesn't take three pictures at EC 0.0, it takes one at 0.0, one at -1 and one at +1 because in Mako's example, the camera is set to +-1, which means that it takes one shot at the setting you have it, in this case 0.0 and two other shots, one a stop below and one a stop above. This is if MY understanding is correct.
 
RorD226,

The D7000 bracketing function is limited to a maximum of 3 shots with a single shutter button push, +0- or -0+; the + and - amount of exposure change is set while holding the bkt button in and turning the front wheel; rear wheel turns bracketing on or off and selects the number of exposures; 3, +2 or-2. If you want more than 3 you have to do as Mako said and combine EC with bracketing OR you must do the whole thing manually adjusting exposure between shots. I don't think there is a way to have the D7000 do more than three bracketed shots. HTH
 
This seems like a good way, I've attempted HDR with my D40 by simply adjusting EC. I'm wondering though - doesn't touching the camera (to adjust EC) ultimately risk nudging things out of alignment esp. longer focal ranges? I guess there's nothing to be done, other than making sure you have a "strong" tripod setup. Also maybe "better" HDR software, i.e. more sophisticated, would be better able to adjust for minor movement between shots? Which begs the question - which software is better able to compensate for non-ideal HDR image sets? DxO, or the Nik plugin, or....? Don't tell me Photoshop, can't afford it. :) Love my Lightroom though.
Mako2011 said:
Bracket at at -+1 then set EC to -3 and take 3 shots...then set EC to 0 and take 3 shots...then set EC to +3 and take 3 shots The result will be you have 9 shots at -4 to +4 You can work out something different by setting the bracket EV different. Only takes a few seconds to set up.
Click to expand...
 
bick1 said:
RorD226,

The D7000 bracketing function is limited to a maximum of 3 shots with a single shutter button push, +0- or -0+; the + and - amount of exposure change is set while holding the bkt button in and turning the front wheel; rear wheel turns bracketing on or off and selects the number of exposures; 3, +2 or-2. If you want more than 3 you have to do as Mako said and combine EC with bracketing OR you must do the whole thing manually adjusting exposure between shots. I don't think there is a way to have the D7000 do more than three bracketed shots. HTH
Click to expand...
Yep, I know that with the bracketing option, the max. number shots is 3. But if I'm shooting in Manual mode, I thought EC does not have an effect...
 
I pretty much never use bracketing on any of my bodies (D80, D300, D7000).

I put the camera on a tripod, set the aperture and ISO I want, then adjust the shutter speed for correct exposure. I then adjust shutter speed in full-stop increments to however many shots I want, usually 5 or 7, each a stop apart. Each shot is taken with exposure delay mode on, and either timer or remote release, for stability.

You have to work quickly this way, in case anything in the frame (like clouds) might move, but I like it because that way, there's no chance I will accidentally leave the camera in bracket mode.

Here's a couple examples, using different blending techniques. These are more "tone-compressed" than true HDR, I don't have any others here at work:











 
RunOrDie226 said:
Yep, I know that with the bracketing option, the max. number shots is 3. But if I'm shooting in Manual mode, I thought EC does not have an effect...
Click to expand...
RorD226,

The answers to your original and follow-up questions are this thread - read carefully! I've noticed that in many of the 84 threads you've started, your response to an answer by someone is to ask yet another question which I think a bit unusual - children and the never ending "why?". So, I'm going to ask you a question. I think EC does have an effect in manual exposure, am I right or wrong? No questions please, only answers (then I can ask another question)! No one else need respond. The best way to learn is to read and THINK! C'mon you can do it.
 
RunOrDie226 said:
Bump, I'm still trying to figue out how to take more shots using my Bracketing feature on my D7000. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Do you know why you want more than 3 or do you just think more is better?

I suggest you start out with -2, 0, +2 and go from there. I do something similar to what Mako suggested and use the U1 and U2 settings so I can switch quickly.
 
Just a thought.

Try the software called ControlMyNikon. It allows for such stuff as HDR bracketing and even Focus Stacking. Watch their videos and you could probably could write a script, or modify theirs, to bracket probably + - 5 stops in 1 stop increments and even a stall to allow mirror shake to settle out. You may be set it far more different than that. If you do, I'd write it so it will not alter the first focus point.

One of their videos demonstrates the issues the D7000 has with AF and it doesn't nail it until he overrides the camera's focus manually in 'Focus Pad' (I think that's what he called it in their videos?). Interesting video though. He had perfect focus on some flower stem, focused and shot other areas than the stem, and when he set the camera's AF point back to the same stem area, it never would focus correctly on the stem so he did it in the software pad. The software pad allows for the minute stepping of the focus motor in adjustable (variable) increments and it shows the lens barely moving between shots they way he sets it up.

Focus Stacking for macro work is very cool though in the explanation and demonstration.

Mack
 
I'd recommend SmartShooter as another option - from http://www.hartcw.com (£32 or ($50) which is available for both PC and Mac (I've used the latter for focus checking, but not for HDR). There is a free example script to shoot HDR which looks as though it will do what you want. Also a free download.

(Disclaimer– I have no personal connection with Hart Codeworks, just a happy customer)
 
You are all kidding, right? The expensive d7000 can only do 3 shot brackets??? What?

Come on Nikon, what are you playing at? Is this a real camera or a toy camera? I'm sure this can be sorted with FW.

The Pentax K10D of 4 years ago could do 5. Like any decent camera should be able to do.

--
jamesza
 
I re-read the thread over, and i just understand how EC would work when I am in Manual Mode.....I understand how to use the Bracketing function, but if I am in Manual Mode, how will EC help me? I changed everything manually, what is the point of EC?

Instead of changing EC, shouldn't I just change the increments? Like I will still use 3 frames, but using my main command dial, I will change between +0.3EV, -0.3EV, +0.7EV, -0.7EV....will that work?

Also, is that what you guys meant all along?
 
RunOrDie226 said:
I re-read the thread over, and i just understand how EC would work when I am in Manual Mode.....I understand how to use the Bracketing function, but if I am in Manual Mode, how will EC help me? I changed everything manually, what is the point of EC?
Click to expand...
EC does nothing in full manual except change the meter's perspective. It does not affect exposure.
RunOrDie226 said:
Instead of changing EC, shouldn't I just change the increments? Like I will still use 3 frames, but using my main command dial, I will change between +0.3EV, -0.3EV, +0.7EV, -0.7EV....will that work?

Also, is that what you guys meant all along?
Click to expand...
That small increments are probably not what you want for HDR. Try using at least full stops.
 
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