Whats up with ISO buttons?

Yes, it does. As default from what I remember.
According to the K-5 manual, exposure remains locked as long as the AE-L button is kept pressed (or the shutter release button is kept pressed halfway.) The exposure remains locked for twice the amount of the exposure metering timer after you take your finger off the AE-L button. The metering timer has a max setting of 30 seconds, which means you can’t keep an exposure lock for more than 1 minute without intervening. I could be remembering incorrectly, but I remember that my K-x would lose the lock after firing the shutter. Also, the K-5 manual says you can’t use auto ISO in manual mode. When set to Auto, it just uses the lowest ISO that was set in the ISO range.

But just as important, the K-5 manual says that AE-L is canceled when the mode dial is turned or menu button is pressed. That limits the usefulness of the function. On a Nikon, after setting the meter timeout to 30 min on my D90 (“no limit” is an option on your D700) and locking exposure, I can change just about any setting I want. I can change the mode dial to any of the PASM modes, enable/disable Auto-ISO, or make any other changes I deem necessary, without having to worry that I’ll lose my locked exposure.
That's the root feature that Nikon/Sony provide that makes the process I described possible. As I described it, I would never need to execute such extraneous steps as setting the manual settings to the P mode settings because I could just use P mode directly or any other auto mode and still have consistent exposure.
I think you missed the point of the green button, but never mind. The fact is Pentax has a neat solution to the issue, no more awkward than Nikon's.
I understand the point of the green button. What you're missing is that Nikon's functionality obviates the need for the green button functions (as they relate to exposure.) That's because Nikon's AE Lock functionality is much better than the Pentax system.

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Graystar, you've gone from accusing other people of not having hands-on experience with a given camera system, to flipping through online documentation to try and justify a defense of a camera design that, however flexible and useful it may be, seems to be a marginal improvement at best for other users. This observation is not entirely divorced from my comment days ago about "needless antagonism."

OK, my horse in the race is that I want better Auto ISO from Canon than they gave me.

(As an aside, I'm not sure where I merited the label "know-it-all?" My response was simply a retort of the kind your posts seem to be inviting, not an argument that I know how to use AE Lock, which I don't. Forums are for freely admitting what one doesn't know by posting everything they do.

I would apologize for needlessly stoking old flames but I see history about to repeat itself.)
 
OK, my horse in the race is that I want better Auto ISO from Canon than they gave me.
All that is keeping us from having very flexible exposure modes and automation of parameters is a refusal by the company(s) to provide it. There is no technological barrier, like there is for other issues like AF and noise. If there are any intellectual property issues, the licensing cost would probably be very small compared to the overall price of the camera.

If a camera can be programmed to vary Tv or Av values based on metering, it can be programmed to vary the gain as well, when necessary. The camera already has to consider limits of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO, when varying parameters, so imposing further user limits adds no time delay to the process.

It is very disheartening seeing how, a dozen years or so into the history of consumer digital cameras with user control, the exposure/gain programming is primitive and unimaginative.

--
John

 
My response was simply a retort of the kind your posts seem to be inviting, not an argument that I know how to use AE Lock, which I don't.
Then shut up. This is a technical discussion, and if you don't know what you're talking about then stay out of it. If you don't like my commentary then you can simply put me on "ignore". It's very easy...here, allow me to demonstrate...

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bobn2 wrote:

No, I just wanted an ISO button. You start out saying I don't need one. I never told anyone else how to use their camera, you don't have to use an ISO button, but for me its very useful. Then you say I can use auto ISO which I can't, and don't need to preview an image after I take it, which I do. I speak only for myself.
Me too, and neither did I tell anyone else how to use their camera. The discussion on auto ISO is whether you can not whether you have to
No, you kept telling me your way was better and I kept telling you that it isn't in my situation .
Maximising exposure is better, that doesn't mean that you have to do it.
Maybe it is in some cases, but your method denies me accurate real time feedback.
I'm not sure what the 'accurate real time feedback that you have using your method, the feedback is much the same, you have the meter, you have the LCD, you have your eyes. Using Auto ISO doesn't change that.
Sure, it helps me prevent highlight clipping but if I use auto-ISO I cannot prevent that either because I cannot assess how much EV comp to apply when it can change by 3 or 4 EV very quickly.
I think this is actually coming down to a question of how you meter, not how the results of that metering is applied. Whatever you do, if you have a big range of brightness in the scene, and you meter on the part that isn't critical to you, or you rely on the camera's evaluative metering to get it right, you'll have a problem. The point is to decide of your priorities (main subject exposure, highlight preservation, shadow quality) and meter to suit. How you meter to suit depends very much on your camera.
Well, sorry for using common terminology which you don't approve of because its technically not accurate,
that's a pretty good reason for disapproving of it, because inaccurate terminology leads to misunderstandings.
but altering sensor gain does allow me to use a different exposure for the same image brightness, does it not?
No. For some cameras changing the gain will give you less noisy shadows. Which brightness corresponds to which exposure is a question of processing.
I do know how to use a camera, I have been doing so for 35 years.
Do it another 15 years and you will have been doing it as long as I have, except by then, I'll still have 15 years on you.
That's not really the point. How much is enough to know what I am doing?
Your point, not mine. And in fact, in this area, more is sometimes less. If you've a long time film experience, didn't spend a deal of that time in the darkroom with monochrome materials, you probably got a grasp of what 'exposure' is which is not actually right and will take a long time to dispel. In my case it got dispelled because I did spend a long time working in the monochrome darkroom, and also professionally and in education terms have the wherewithall to know what is actually going on inside a digital camera.
You do a lot of gig photography then?
I've done some, which means that the statement that I 'have never actually tried applying the methods you propose to what I am doing' is wrong. Doubtless, I don't do near the same amount as you.
If you are telling me I don't need feedback by chimping during a shoot, or that auto ISO works in my situation, it doesn't sound like you do.
Chimping is available using auto ISO. What I don't know is how you meter, or what you meter on. If you aren't metering on what is critical to you, then no technique's going to produce good results.
The fact you clearly dont race cars or motorbikes (which I did for many years and I have a close friend who builds gearboxes for McLaren) does not seem to preclude you making pronouncements on that score either does it?
How many racing drivers and riders are an authority on the technology that they race? Very few. In any case, I would doubt very much that you ever had experience at the level where the question of this kind of technology comes up. On the other hand, I do have several links with the competition car industry, enough to know that modern advanced control systems outperform human beings in most of these areas. that's why traction control, launch control and ABS have been successively introduced used, gained an advantage and been banned. Changing gear is no different. Likewise, in modern fighter aircraft design the aircraft are designed aerodynamically unstable, and automatic control systems used to do what a human pilot couldn't, keep the plane in the air.
If you did you would understand why auto-shifting would not be helpful to a driver,
You're simply wrong. A properly designed automatic gearbox will go faster than a humen taking the decisions, it will also give the driver one fewer simultaneous task. That's why it's banned (in the top level formulae) - why would it be if it offered no advantage?
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Bob
 
Could you elaborate on why exactly the Auto-ISO does not work for you by giving an example Steve? I don't understand what you mean by conflicting background brightness. This sounds like an exposure compensation decision, not an ISO choice. I also don't agree that Auto ISO is "no different from auto anything else", because with Auto-ISO the user can choose the ISO boundaries of maximum and minimum, as well as minimum shutter speed settings to program the Boolean logic of this feature.
Very simple, shooting a gig you have to track the performer who is normally lit from above and in front, but on a stage there are number of lights behind that throw the meter completely. If you set up exposure manually for the performer, and the ISO, then you can (from a given position) follow him or her around without the backlights radically changing the exposure/brightness of the performer.
If you have the exposure set manually, then the backlights can't change the exposure, you have set it. As for the 'brightness', that depends on the processing, and the question is, what you will get from the end result. Since you've set exposure and ISO manually, then you are not depending on in-camera processing, i would think.
They when you focus on another performer, or change position, you can set the ISO to a new point but maintain shutter speed and aperture and continue shooting.
II can't understand why you kept onb talking about teh highlights, your technique is almost guaranteed to blow the highlights (OK it preserving them isn't what you're after)
So every 30-100 shots, I will do an ISO change and shoot another blast. Auto ISO is completely irrelevant in this situation.
I understand what you're doing, since having ISOful cameras without sensible auto ISO, it's close to what I have to do. That doesn't mean, however, that it's the way you need to work. Slip it into auto ISO (with appropriate limits), set the EC to suit your balance, choose spot metering, take metering start off the shutter release. Each new situation you meter off whatever you've set your EC to work with (face, probably), dab the metering button, then fire way until next time you need to change. If needs be, you can have a little chimp, just to check you've got the EC set as you want.
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Bob
 
My response was simply a retort of the kind your posts seem to be inviting, not an argument that I know how to use AE Lock, which I don't.
Then shut up. This is a technical discussion, and if you don't know what you're talking about then stay out of it. If you don't like my commentary then you can simply put me on "ignore". It's very easy...here, allow me to demonstrate...

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This is not your personal sandbox. The point is that regardless of whatever wonderful points you have to share, writing things without caring if they are understood is exactly the same in the end as having written nothing at all. I don't care if you are content to preach to the choir instead of actually trying to help out your community members, but if you care at all you should make some moves in short order to cut the snark.

Believe it or not, I'm with you 100% on the issue of better automation (given how much auto ISO selection drives me nuts on my camera) and its usefulness, but it seems as if you really don't care to be understood, which is a shame. It's hard to tell how serious you are about this, what with your rather strange one-size-fits-all recommendations like "use a tripod" and "use flash" which are of no use at all in many shooting situations.

I will not apologize for wanting to learn about cameras and I won't apologize for asking people to be more civil, either.
 
Yes, it does. As default from what I remember.
According to the K-5 manual, exposure remains locked as long as the AE-L button is kept pressed (or the shutter release button is kept pressed halfway.)
True, but because of the way manual mode is implemented on Pentax, there is a different way of operating which is much more intuitive.

What I meant was that EV comp is retained between shots. You can use it in M mode to create an offset to the metered value. In M mode, this exposure it then retained.

If you want to get a new meter reading, you just press the green button, and the camera will set to the default P, Av or Tv exposure. I don't need to use a long term AE lock, because I can use manual as conveniently as I can use P mode.

The exposure remains locked for twice the amount of the exposure metering timer after you take your finger off the AE-L button. The metering timer has a max setting of 30 seconds, which means you can’t keep an exposure lock for more than 1 minute without intervening. I could be remembering incorrectly, but I remember that my K-x would lose the lock after firing the shutter. Also, the K-5 manual says you can’t use auto ISO in manual mode. When set to Auto, it just uses the lowest ISO that was set in the ISO range.

Like I said, there is no need to do either. Auto ISO works fine in all other auto modes, I don't WANT it to work in M mode. Manual means Manual. Moreover, Auto ISO is focal-length aware, which is much more useful on the whole.

Nor do I want the meter to remain permenently set. I want to be able to react to change, and besides just because the meter is ON does not mean it wont tak another reading as soon as I press the shutter.
But just as important, the K-5 manual says that AE-L is canceled when the mode dial is turned or menu button is pressed. That limits the usefulness of the function.
No, it's actually the sensible way to work. If I want to maintain the exposure and use auto ISO I just use TAV mode.
On a Nikon, after setting the meter timeout to 30 min on my D90 (“no limit” is an option on your D700) and locking exposure, I can change just about any setting I want. I can change the mode dial to any of the PASM modes, enable/disable Auto-ISO, or make any other changes I deem necessary, without having to worry that I’ll lose my locked exposure.
Fine, but this is just another mode of operation. Moreover, I can think of a few times that I would find this quite annoying and want to switch it off.
That's the root feature that Nikon/Sony provide that makes the process I described possible. As I described it, I would never need to execute such extraneous steps as setting the manual settings to the P mode settings because I could just use P mode directly or any other auto mode and still have consistent exposure.
I think you missed the point of the green button, but never mind. The fact is Pentax has a neat solution to the issue, no more awkward than Nikon's.
I understand the point of the green button. What you're missing is that Nikon's functionality obviates the need for the green button functions (as they relate to exposure.) That's because Nikon's AE Lock functionality is much better than the Pentax system.
Hardly. Having to set the exposure lock to permanent is disabled the minute you press the shutter button as I use AF/L on rear button and AE/L on shutter press so to me this is a useless. It also drains the battery faster.

I suggest you try using both systems before you pass judgement. Pentax works very intuitively. M means M on Pentax, on Nikon it means "until I use auto ISO" in which case it becomes similar to Pentax's TAv mode.

Auto ISO is a poor compromise at best, and poorly implemented on all cameras. Nikon is a little behind IMO, because it is not focal length aware, so its only useful for tracking action which requires a set shutter speed, or when using primes.

But I sincerely suggest you try using a Pentax before you judge it. I much prefer Nikons AF and flash, but Pentax has a lot of features I really miss.
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Regards,
Steve
 

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