D5100 release mode issue

Moonman52

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On my D5100 if I set release mode to 5 second delay it always resets itself back to single frame after just one shot. This seems silly, even my Pansonic G1 and OLY E-PL1 can be set to a specified time delay indefinitely without needing resetting for each and every shot.

Please someone tell me I am missing something in the manual and that the Nikon is not a less capable camera in this regard to my Panny and Oly.

I do mostly landscapes and use LV on the articualting tilt screen but it is frustrating to have to reset the timer switch for every single shot. Does the D7000 operate this way also?

I love the D5100 for the high resolution tilt screen which comes in handy with the camera on a tripod but if Nikon has over looked such a BASIC requirement in a dslr mind you, maybe I need to look for another dslr or even company and perhaps forget the tiltable screen altogether if it comes to that. Are you kidding me Nikon? Forgive my ignorance if I am doing something wrong here.
 
how do you set it to 5s?

I tried it on mine with the 10s delay and after it took the pic, it was re-set to single shot mode.
 
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
Under Custom Setting Menu, Timers C3 (in green) you can set it for 2, 5, 10 or 20 seconds.

This is really rather a major oversite by Nikon that needs to be fixed in firmware now! Even some of my cheapest point and shoots are set up so that you can set the timer once so that it delays the shutter several seconds every shot until you reset it again. Having to reset the timer for every shot is just plain stupid and unforgivable in a dslr and a Nikon at that!

Unbelievable Nikon! Shame on your so called engineering department! Do you guys (Nikon) actually ever use this stuff? I have half a mind to trade the camera in for a D7000 but I'd probably only find out after using it for a while that your engineers handicapped that camera some major way also!
how do you set it to 5s?

I tried it on mine with the 10s delay and after it took the pic, it was re-set to single shot mode.
 
We aren't Nikon, so your ranting is falling on deaf ears. Send Nikon feedback, unless you simply want to gripe to us, who can't do a thing about your complaint.
Under Custom Setting Menu, Timers C3 (in green) you can set it for 2, 5, 10 or 20 seconds.

This is really rather a major oversite by Nikon that needs to be fixed in firmware now! Even some of my cheapest point and shoots are set up so that you can set the timer once so that it delays the shutter several seconds every shot until you reset it again. Having to reset the timer for every shot is just plain stupid and unforgivable in a dslr and a Nikon at that!

Unbelievable Nikon! Shame on your so called engineering department! Do you guys (Nikon) actually ever use this stuff? I have half a mind to trade the camera in for a D7000 but I'd probably only find out after using it for a while that your engineers handicapped that camera some major way also!
how do you set it to 5s?

I tried it on mine with the 10s delay and after it took the pic, it was re-set to single shot mode.
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
I was kinda hoping Nikon reads these forums once in a blue moon. It would surely be to their benifit.
We aren't Nikon, so your ranting is falling on deaf ears. Send Nikon feedback, unless you simply want to gripe to us, who can't do a thing about your complaint.
Under Custom Setting Menu, Timers C3 (in green) you can set it for 2, 5, 10 or 20 seconds.

This is really rather a major oversite by Nikon that needs to be fixed in firmware now! Even some of my cheapest point and shoots are set up so that you can set the timer once so that it delays the shutter several seconds every shot until you reset it again. Having to reset the timer for every shot is just plain stupid and unforgivable in a dslr and a Nikon at that!

Unbelievable Nikon! Shame on your so called engineering department! Do you guys (Nikon) actually ever use this stuff? I have half a mind to trade the camera in for a D7000 but I'd probably only find out after using it for a while that your engineers handicapped that camera some major way also!
how do you set it to 5s?

I tried it on mine with the 10s delay and after it took the pic, it was re-set to single shot mode.
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
You know what they say about "hope", right?
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
 
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
If I put my D5100 into Remote trigger mode I can take a couple of shots, but if I change the camera position and wait too long (maybe a full minute) the settings reset to single shot mode and I have to go back to menu and reset it to use the remote (R mode). It's pretty annoying. Why can't it just auto detect the remote or the use of my finger on the shutter button? No need for one or the other only.
 
All my Nikons behave that way, I'm used to it. I have the Fn button programmed for 2 second delay and hitting it after every shot seems normal to me now.

I wouldn't call my D5100 "less capable" or "unbelievable" or "handicapped" or "unforgivable" (did I leave one out?) because of it, there's lot of things it doesn't do, so what, it is what it is.

Try the decaf next time you're shooting with your D5100, maybe that will help.
 
I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that the 3100 I had allowed me to keep the self timer delay active until the camera was turned off or we switched to some other shooting mode. I remember having just 3 concerns about switching from the 3100 to the 5100:

1. all buttons on the right side of the screen (but for the menu button)
2. the issue we are discussing now re the self timer
3. the position of the LV lever & video button.
All my Nikons behave that way, I'm used to it.
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 
My D40/D5000/D5100 revert back to single shot, my D90 stays set at timer shooting. Don't know about the D3100.
I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) that the 3100 I had allowed me to keep the self timer delay active until the camera was turned off or we switched to some other shooting mode. I remember having just 3 concerns about switching from the 3100 to the 5100:

1. all buttons on the right side of the screen (but for the menu button)
2. the issue we are discussing now re the self timer
3. the position of the LV lever & video button.
All my Nikons behave that way, I'm used to it.
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 
Vibration is caused from actually pressing and releasing the shutter button not just from mirror slap. I'm may not always have a remote available or even want to carry one around with me everywhere I go. It is really strange that an inexpensive point and shoot is better equiped in this regard than my new and latest Nikon dslr.

In LV the mirror is supposedly locked up but whats with all that noisy racket going on when the shutter is finally released. Sounds like a mirror slapping around to me. I'm finding now that even on a pro level, solid and very heavy tripod and head (over 30lb) I'm not getting really tak sharp images with shutter speeds anything under 1/320 of sec even with remote and VR shut down. I've been doing a lot of testing on this and have come to the conclusion it has something to do with a very poorly engineered shutter. Even my old Pentax 6X7 medium format film camera with huge focal plane shutter had a smoother release and I thought it was going to take off with the tripod a few times! My Hassy with leaf shutter smooth as silk! I am not having this issue with either a D5000 or D40. I even picked up a second sample of the D5100 with same results although not quite as noticable but still bad.

Mark my word, we will be hearing more on this. I think my D5100 is going back and I'll be looking for something else perhaps the D7000 or I may just pick up a D300s or older D300.
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
 
Bummer. I just shot the moon a couple nights ago with the 70-300 racked out to 300, using LV and a cable remote. the moon was very sharp (i'm pretty picky). you've got something going on with your rig that isn't normal, if you can't get sharp images.
Vibration is caused from actually pressing and releasing the shutter button not just from mirror slap. I'm may not always have a remote available or even want to carry one around with me everywhere I go. It is really strange that an inexpensive point and shoot is better equiped in this regard than my new and latest Nikon dslr.

In LV the mirror is supposedly locked up but whats with all that noisy racket going on when the shutter is finally released. Sounds like a mirror slapping around to me. I'm finding now that even on a pro level, solid and very heavy tripod and head (over 30lb) I'm not getting really tak sharp images with shutter speeds anything under 1/320 of sec even with remote and VR shut down. I've been doing a lot of testing on this and have come to the conclusion it has something to do with a very poorly engineered shutter. Even my old Pentax 6X7 medium format film camera with huge focal plane shutter had a smoother release and I thought it was going to take off with the tripod a few times! My Hassy with leaf shutter smooth as silk! I am not having this issue with either a D5000 or D40. I even picked up a second sample of the D5100 with same results although not quite as noticable but still bad.

Mark my word, we will be hearing more on this. I think my D5100 is going back and I'll be looking for something else perhaps the D7000 or I may just pick up a D300s or older D300.
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 
Depends on what you call sharp. I guess I'm even more picky and a bit spoiled in that area too. I own a 6 inch apo refractor telescope which I use with premium monocentric eyepieces. This is my reference point for sharp for the moon or otherwise. Nothing wrong with the camera rig since it has no problems with any camera I've used on it other than the two D5100's I've tried.
Bummer. I just shot the moon a couple nights ago with the 70-300 racked out to 300, using LV and a cable remote. the moon was very sharp (i'm pretty picky). you've got something going on with your rig that isn't normal, if you can't get sharp images.
Vibration is caused from actually pressing and releasing the shutter button not just from mirror slap. I'm may not always have a remote available or even want to carry one around with me everywhere I go. It is really strange that an inexpensive point and shoot is better equiped in this regard than my new and latest Nikon dslr.

In LV the mirror is supposedly locked up but whats with all that noisy racket going on when the shutter is finally released. Sounds like a mirror slapping around to me. I'm finding now that even on a pro level, solid and very heavy tripod and head (over 30lb) I'm not getting really tak sharp images with shutter speeds anything under 1/320 of sec even with remote and VR shut down. I've been doing a lot of testing on this and have come to the conclusion it has something to do with a very poorly engineered shutter. Even my old Pentax 6X7 medium format film camera with huge focal plane shutter had a smoother release and I thought it was going to take off with the tripod a few times! My Hassy with leaf shutter smooth as silk! I am not having this issue with either a D5000 or D40. I even picked up a second sample of the D5100 with same results although not quite as noticable but still bad.

Mark my word, we will be hearing more on this. I think my D5100 is going back and I'll be looking for something else perhaps the D7000 or I may just pick up a D300s or older D300.
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 
well of course if you have a decent telescope you will see the moon in far better clarity than my lowly 70-300, but when I hear people complain that the 300 end of the 70-300 is "soft" I wonder if there's some sample-to-sample issues going on. these ARE mass produced items and there are definitely tolerances that can stack up to cause one lens to be demonstrably better/worse than another copy of the same lens. I've owned three 18-55 lenses--each one felt different when zooming. One was smooth as butter (kit lens that came with 3100 from costco), the second one was the kit lens with the first 5100 I received and it was very very sticky, and the one I am still in possession of is "in between" in smoothness.
Depends on what you call sharp. I guess I'm even more picky and a bit spoiled in that area too. I own a 6 inch apo refractor telescope which I use with premium monocentric eyepieces. This is my reference point for sharp for the moon or otherwise. Nothing wrong with the camera rig since it has no problems with any camera I've used on it other than the two D5100's I've tried.
Bummer. I just shot the moon a couple nights ago with the 70-300 racked out to 300, using LV and a cable remote. the moon was very sharp (i'm pretty picky). you've got something going on with your rig that isn't normal, if you can't get sharp images.
Vibration is caused from actually pressing and releasing the shutter button not just from mirror slap. I'm may not always have a remote available or even want to carry one around with me everywhere I go. It is really strange that an inexpensive point and shoot is better equiped in this regard than my new and latest Nikon dslr.

In LV the mirror is supposedly locked up but whats with all that noisy racket going on when the shutter is finally released. Sounds like a mirror slapping around to me. I'm finding now that even on a pro level, solid and very heavy tripod and head (over 30lb) I'm not getting really tak sharp images with shutter speeds anything under 1/320 of sec even with remote and VR shut down. I've been doing a lot of testing on this and have come to the conclusion it has something to do with a very poorly engineered shutter. Even my old Pentax 6X7 medium format film camera with huge focal plane shutter had a smoother release and I thought it was going to take off with the tripod a few times! My Hassy with leaf shutter smooth as silk! I am not having this issue with either a D5000 or D40. I even picked up a second sample of the D5100 with same results although not quite as noticable but still bad.

Mark my word, we will be hearing more on this. I think my D5100 is going back and I'll be looking for something else perhaps the D7000 or I may just pick up a D300s or older D300.
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 
There is definitely some variance among Nikon lenses but maybe less so at the pro level. I had seven 18-55mm kits lenses, 3 VR and 4 non VR. Four were fairly sharp and three were total dogs. Luck of the draw with the kit lenses.
well of course if you have a decent telescope you will see the moon in far better clarity than my lowly 70-300, but when I hear people complain that the 300 end of the 70-300 is "soft" I wonder if there's some sample-to-sample issues going on. these ARE mass produced items and there are definitely tolerances that can stack up to cause one lens to be demonstrably better/worse than another copy of the same lens. I've owned three 18-55 lenses--each one felt different when zooming. One was smooth as butter (kit lens that came with 3100 from costco), the second one was the kit lens with the first 5100 I received and it was very very sticky, and the one I am still in possession of is "in between" in smoothness.
Depends on what you call sharp. I guess I'm even more picky and a bit spoiled in that area too. I own a 6 inch apo refractor telescope which I use with premium monocentric eyepieces. This is my reference point for sharp for the moon or otherwise. Nothing wrong with the camera rig since it has no problems with any camera I've used on it other than the two D5100's I've tried.
Bummer. I just shot the moon a couple nights ago with the 70-300 racked out to 300, using LV and a cable remote. the moon was very sharp (i'm pretty picky). you've got something going on with your rig that isn't normal, if you can't get sharp images.
Vibration is caused from actually pressing and releasing the shutter button not just from mirror slap. I'm may not always have a remote available or even want to carry one around with me everywhere I go. It is really strange that an inexpensive point and shoot is better equiped in this regard than my new and latest Nikon dslr.

In LV the mirror is supposedly locked up but whats with all that noisy racket going on when the shutter is finally released. Sounds like a mirror slapping around to me. I'm finding now that even on a pro level, solid and very heavy tripod and head (over 30lb) I'm not getting really tak sharp images with shutter speeds anything under 1/320 of sec even with remote and VR shut down. I've been doing a lot of testing on this and have come to the conclusion it has something to do with a very poorly engineered shutter. Even my old Pentax 6X7 medium format film camera with huge focal plane shutter had a smoother release and I thought it was going to take off with the tripod a few times! My Hassy with leaf shutter smooth as silk! I am not having this issue with either a D5000 or D40. I even picked up a second sample of the D5100 with same results although not quite as noticable but still bad.

Mark my word, we will be hearing more on this. I think my D5100 is going back and I'll be looking for something else perhaps the D7000 or I may just pick up a D300s or older D300.
ah, can anyone explain to me why the OP needs a delay mode for use with LV?? what's the point? the mirror is ALREADY UP. Use a remote, with immediate exposure and there's no mirror slap anyway. What am I missing? With all the options on the D5100, including a one second delayed exposure (great for using the VF) to reduce mirror slap, I no longer feel that Nikon did us dirty with the way they set up the SELF TIMER functions. By giving us the option for 1-9 exposures in self timer mode, they give use the ability to take a series of easily-set-up self portraits without having to run back to the camera for every shot. that way it will be easier to get a "keeper" with minimal effort/time.
sadly, that's the way they programmed the 5100. I knew that before I bought mine, so I wasn't surprised by what I consider an "oddity".
--
Dave
Hi,

Well , maybe there should be 2 different modes :
1) with auto reset to single shot mode;
2) without auto reset and seperate reset to single shot mode

But is also possible to use a remote control, maybe this can solve OP's problem ??

Greetings,
Marc
--
ps : some interesting tutorial websites :

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/
http://www.normankoren.com/sitemap.html



my photos (examples, see dpreview galleries):
--
Dave

1954 Sears Tower Companion> Zeiss Ikon Super Ikonta B> Retina IIc> Minolta 16 II> Polaroid 230> Mamiya Sekor 1000 DTL> Polariod SX-70> Minolta XD-11> Canon MC-10> Minolta Maxxum HTsi> Olympus XA> Olympus Accura Zoom 105> Canon S45> Sony DSC-W170> Nikon D3100> Nikon D5100 (defective)> Nikon D5100 (a keeper)
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
--
Dave

Dee fifty one hundred
 

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