thx for your suggestion, I have faith on your knowledge about this focusing system so Im gonna test it like the way you described and share the results asap.
thx
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D7000 Focus problems,a test of 30 shots and focus comparison between d5100 and d7000
- Thread starter ocean76
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thx
So...when the OP goes to shoot things in the real world, he has to take pictures of only things which are perpendicular?
The D7000 is more expensive and sophisticated than the D5100. The D7000 should be doing better at every photo than the D5100.
The D7000 is more expensive and sophisticated than the D5100. The D7000 should be doing better at every photo than the D5100.
Thx Tom for your mail, Mako2011 has suggested me to try a very similar test like you explained here...
I have 2 questions before I start the new test:
1) if I AF fine tune a lens , then whenever I want , I can give up and adjust the value to off like no adjustments has made , right?
It doesnt give any harm to a lens or the camera and everything is the same again like it is a new camera,right?
2)you said: shoot 3 images each (forced refocus for each) at off, +5, +10, -5, -10..
Im using the AF-ON system focusing.
af-c priority: release
af-s priority: release
focus tracking with lock-on OFF
shutter release button AE-L: OFF
these settings are ok for forced refocus,right?
thx again...
I'm sure I'll have more questions after the test...
actually I totally agree with you...I shouldnt need to serach for all these perpendicular targets just to have a sharp focus...
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Actually, once you get used to how the AF system works on the D7K, you'll be able to be much more precise in all your focus attempts. I've experienced what you may be experiencing (still don't know if you have a bad copy) In the beginning my D70 focused better than the D7k, until I understood what I was seeing. Now, my D7K is much faster and much more precise than my D70 is....because I learned how to use it better. Good Luck.
stretchman
Senior Member
Does anyone use Manual Focus anymore. I own the D7000 and have not had a single problem with the images that this Camera produces. I think using the Manual Focus from time to time will help make you a better Photographer and maybe will help you understand how the Camera focuses different then the human eye.
tvnewsbadge
Senior Member
Send it back. camera fault, your fault, it doesn't matter. You've lost faith in the camera and will never be happy.
Hi Mako2011,
I'll test the way you suggest tomorrow but first I want to be sure that I get it right.
What is not clear for me is: where shall I hang the newspaper and where should be my position?
"this perpendicular to the focal plane" thing is confusing for me...
I wont hang the newspaper to a wall just ınfront of me and shoot it, right?
I wish someone could send or link me to a photo of the proper test area...
thx
drifit
Leading Member
i can see it is something wrong with your D7k.
time to barge into nikon service centre with this set of test. get them to solve it for you.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifit/
time to barge into nikon service centre with this set of test. get them to solve it for you.
--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifit/
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On a wall is fine. A place were the light is good. On a tripod. Looking straight at it (not at any angle) and at a distance of 50x focal length. A well lit brick wall with lots of texture works just as well. Good Luck.
eNo
Forum Pro
Yes, assuming you did and setup everything correctly, and it looks like you did, it's time for a visit to the Nikon mother ship. They'll get it calibrated for you, and you'll be a happy camper.
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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Seeking the heart and spirit in each image
Gallery and blog: http://imagesbyeduardo.com
Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22061657@N03
I did a test last night but couldn't be sure
whether I did sth wrong or not...
I did several shots with -10,-5, 0, +5,+10 and there were absolutely no difference between them? Is it normal?
(should I test just the focus area or the whole newspaper for any sharpness difference in focus?)
Then I tried -20 and this time there was a difference.
but for the other values, they were totally the same..I couldn't be sure if Im everything right so I stopped...
this was on a tripod.
35mm and 50mm
1.5x50=75 inches away for 35mm
2x50=100 inches away for 50 mm
a newspaper hang on a well lit wall
looking straight on it, just accross the camera (like throwing a dart)
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Just two shots are needed. One with Live view and one through the view finder. If they are both sharp you are done. Also, after setting a fine tune value, you must turn fine tune on to use it. Post two of your examples from opposite settings. Good Luck
mikew
Leading Member
The target that the red focus square covers is backlit ( dark ) while just behind it is a well lit section of red cloth with folds, creating high contrast shadows. Your focus sensor, which extends a bit beyond the red square, is locking onto the high contrast in the background.
So first try lighting the scene correctly, so there is no question where the focus will lock. In other words, front light the scene, with strong light coming from directly over your shoulder. Your subject should be high contrast itself, in bright light with no high contrast objects directly behind it. You want to be sure the camera has a good focus target.
Your subject matter was good for revealing the back focus. It had easily seen detail that showed where the focus was. You just need to eliminate any questions about exactly what is being focused on.
From a tripod, set single point focus, take a jpeg series of shots, lens wide open. In Af fine tune, take a shot at -20, -15, -10, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15 and 20. Manually focus to infinity after each shot. Re auto focus for the next shot. View the files in ViewNX2. It tells you what AF fine tune setting each shot was taken at. Rename each file according to what the fine tune setting was, eg, -10, 5 , etc. View the files in photoshop. Sharpen them and examine them at 100%. You will clearly see whether you have to enter a fine tune adjustment for that lens. With the lens mounted, set the AF fine tune for whatever AF fine tune setting gave you the sharpest shot. If you need to be even more precise go back an repeat the test shots, but take shots adjusting af fine tune by increments of 1, instead of 5.
Hope this helps.
So first try lighting the scene correctly, so there is no question where the focus will lock. In other words, front light the scene, with strong light coming from directly over your shoulder. Your subject should be high contrast itself, in bright light with no high contrast objects directly behind it. You want to be sure the camera has a good focus target.
Your subject matter was good for revealing the back focus. It had easily seen detail that showed where the focus was. You just need to eliminate any questions about exactly what is being focused on.
From a tripod, set single point focus, take a jpeg series of shots, lens wide open. In Af fine tune, take a shot at -20, -15, -10, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15 and 20. Manually focus to infinity after each shot. Re auto focus for the next shot. View the files in ViewNX2. It tells you what AF fine tune setting each shot was taken at. Rename each file according to what the fine tune setting was, eg, -10, 5 , etc. View the files in photoshop. Sharpen them and examine them at 100%. You will clearly see whether you have to enter a fine tune adjustment for that lens. With the lens mounted, set the AF fine tune for whatever AF fine tune setting gave you the sharpest shot. If you need to be even more precise go back an repeat the test shots, but take shots adjusting af fine tune by increments of 1, instead of 5.
Hope this helps.
Reply to Tom Ferguson who said the D7000 is the first prosumer DSLR to offer focus adjust which is incorrect. For one the Olympus E-30 had it prior and it did not seem to generate long threads about focus errors. Could be the E-30's simpler 11 point focus system or the lower res 12 MP sensor.
Since Olympus may be at its end game in DSLRs I have looked at the D7000 and may get one, seems like a great combination of features and image quality. Just these threads scare me a little. Hope you figure out the issue since OOF pictures from a good camera otherwise are very frustrating.
Olympus E-30 Review March 2009 Category: Mid Range Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
Nikon D7000 Review November 2010 Category: Mid Range Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
Autofocus adjustment on E-30 from review
As well as having a comparatively sophisticated autofocus system, the E-30 has probably the most adjustable AF setup we've yet encountered. It's possible to fine-tune every AF point individually. With separate settings for wide-angle end and the telephoto-end if it's a zoom lens. And, not only can different values be specified for every lens you own (by serial number, so you can compensate for differing behavior between two copies of the same lens), you can also set up multiple presets, just in case you find out your lens behaves differently at different focusing distances.
Since Olympus may be at its end game in DSLRs I have looked at the D7000 and may get one, seems like a great combination of features and image quality. Just these threads scare me a little. Hope you figure out the issue since OOF pictures from a good camera otherwise are very frustrating.
Olympus E-30 Review March 2009 Category: Mid Range Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
Nikon D7000 Review November 2010 Category: Mid Range Interchangeable Lens Camera / DSLR
Autofocus adjustment on E-30 from review
As well as having a comparatively sophisticated autofocus system, the E-30 has probably the most adjustable AF setup we've yet encountered. It's possible to fine-tune every AF point individually. With separate settings for wide-angle end and the telephoto-end if it's a zoom lens. And, not only can different values be specified for every lens you own (by serial number, so you can compensate for differing behavior between two copies of the same lens), you can also set up multiple presets, just in case you find out your lens behaves differently at different focusing distances.
nfpotter
Senior Member
I just picked up a D7000 a few days ago. I haven't done any proper tests yet, ubt I have been shooting a bunch of stuff around the house, to compare to my trusty D300. So far, I'm not seeing any back-focus issues, but here's my take:
The larger focus sensor areas in the D7000 are going to cause me to get a MUCH smaller keeper (sharp) percentage, compared to my D300. I still need to do a LOT more testing, but so far, I'm leaning towards selling the D7000 (I already have a D80 as a backup to my D300).
Other than that, there are several other reasons why I prefer the D300 (so far): I like the size and weight better, easier for me to hold firmly and more comfortable, and I like most of the control layout better on the D300, as well. And, of course, the superior AF tracking. But all those I THINK I can live with, once I'm more used to the D7000.
The larger focus sensor areas in the D7000 are going to cause me to get a MUCH smaller keeper (sharp) percentage, compared to my D300. I still need to do a LOT more testing, but so far, I'm leaning towards selling the D7000 (I already have a D80 as a backup to my D300).
Other than that, there are several other reasons why I prefer the D300 (so far): I like the size and weight better, easier for me to hold firmly and more comfortable, and I like most of the control layout better on the D300, as well. And, of course, the superior AF tracking. But all those I THINK I can live with, once I'm more used to the D7000.
that I am not the only one that the large focus points cause problems for. I think that it all depends on what you shoot. I shoot a lot of small birds on the ground or in the trees at some distance and just can't make it work consistantly for that. I really like it for other subjects and especially low light.
The best tip that I have found for shooting this camera is to get your shutter speed up, way up. Even when on a tripod or beanbag, I shoot at much higher shutter speeds than I normally would to get sharp results. I don't know if it is a characteristic of the high mp sensor or something else but it made all of the difference for me.
regards,
Jolene
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My galleries-- http://www.zenfolio.com/jolieo
The best tip that I have found for shooting this camera is to get your shutter speed up, way up. Even when on a tripod or beanbag, I shoot at much higher shutter speeds than I normally would to get sharp results. I don't know if it is a characteristic of the high mp sensor or something else but it made all of the difference for me.
regards,
Jolene
--
My galleries-- http://www.zenfolio.com/jolieo
nfpotter
Senior Member
I, too, have noticed that higher shutter speeds help (which unfortunately negates part or all of the stop or so advantage the D7000 has over my D300, though the D7000 seems to generate/handle noise a bit better).that I am not the only one that the large focus points cause problems for. I think that it all depends on what you shoot. I shoot a lot of small birds on the ground or in the trees at some distance and just can't make it work consistantly for that. I really like it for other subjects and especially low light.
The best tip that I have found for shooting this camera is to get your shutter speed up, way up. Even when on a tripod or beanbag, I shoot at much higher shutter speeds than I normally would to get sharp results. I don't know if it is a characteristic of the high mp sensor or something else but it made all of the difference for me.
regards,
Jolene
--
My galleries-- http://www.zenfolio.com/jolieo
BUT - missed focus is still missed focus, shutter speed won't help there.
Michael Kaufman
Senior Member
Its a little more complicated then that.
Sometime things that are more expensive and sophisticated are also take a little more effort to learn how to use.
That's why Photoshop Elements is easier for a beginner then Photoshop, and a Honda Prelude is easier to control then a Formula 1 dragster.
If it wasn't possible to get better results with a D7000, then people would be silly to pay more for it. The fact (if it is one) that it takes a little more time to gain the experience to get better results is interesting, but not surprising.
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