eNo
Forum Pro
I just replied to someone over email about special D7000 settings. Mine are not special, just what I've been using with every other Nikon DSLR I've owned based on advice I've received here and elsewhere. Now I'm passing it on.
So I'm a simple kind-of guy when it comes to AF.
With these settings, I just shot a 4.5 hour wedding session, followed the next morning with concert photography, in pretty challenging lighting conditions, especially for the second event, and my D7000's focusing didn't skip a bit. At one time, for giggles, I focused on a dimly lit microphone before the singer stepped to it and the spot light came on. Snap. Focus was dead on. I don't recommend this as proper focusing technique, btw.
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Seeking the heart and spirit in each image
Gallery and blog: http://imagesbyeduardo.com
Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22061657@N03
So I'm a simple kind-of guy when it comes to AF.
- First thing I did on my D7000 (as I did on my D80 and D90 before it) is to go to single-point AF. See page 91 of the manual:
- I also selected 11 focus points (instead of 39; menu a6) as I like that for composition (the corners give me the rule of thirds).
- Next, I turn my AE-L/AF-L button into AF-ON (menu f5, page 232), and I switch the priority to Release (rather than focus; see menus a1 and a2, page 208) so that the camera fires the instant I press the shutter button, regardless of focus status. I know this sounds dangerous, but it's not if you use the proper technique:
- Pick something that will not cause misfocus. For portraits it's the eyes. If you camera cannot get the eye you focus on well defined and sharp, something's wrong -- I won't theorize what (but check how much light you have to work with) -- because eyes are one of the best, high-contrast targets. For action, pick a colorful or high-contrast feature. That's going to vary, so you're going to have to develop your targets of choice from experience. With practice, you'll have no troubles.
- Select either AF-S (for portraits) or AF-C (for action, moving subjects). In fact, you can leave it in AF-C mode, because as you'll see, you will not necessarily be invoking continuous servo focus mode unless you keep the AF-ON button pressed. When shooting portraits, I like to switch to AF-S because I've found (maybe in my dreams, but hey?) it's more accurate for non-moving subjects.
- Since with the above settings the shutter button no longer focuses the lens, you need to press the AF-ON button. As soon as you acquire focus, release the button. Even if the mode was AF-C, the camera is no longer focusing .
- Now you can fire away, and pressing the shutter button next time will not re-focus. The focus is virtually locked until you press AF-ON again. (eNo's theory: most focusing errors happen when re-pressing the shutter button for the next shot when re-focusing is not needed .)
With these settings, I just shot a 4.5 hour wedding session, followed the next morning with concert photography, in pretty challenging lighting conditions, especially for the second event, and my D7000's focusing didn't skip a bit. At one time, for giggles, I focused on a dimly lit microphone before the singer stepped to it and the spot light came on. Snap. Focus was dead on. I don't recommend this as proper focusing technique, btw.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Seeking the heart and spirit in each image
Gallery and blog: http://imagesbyeduardo.com
Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/22061657@N03