S2 backfocus test jig

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Hugensjr said:

Thanks for this great test! It seems that I'm having a similar
problem with my S2, in particulary on 'infinity'shots (lens set to
infinity, landscape shots). I encouter less problems whem I'm
taking shots around 2 - 5 meters. I think, when the lens is set to
infinity, it has no margin left to correct the probably incorrect
backfocus.

In the meanwhile, did you received your s2-body back from Fuji? Any
luck yet??? I think there are more among us who would like to know
that if there is an issue on this camera, how Fuji handles it and
if it can be corrected......

Thanks,
Patrick

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

ajs2 said:

I guess you could use any rule and target(needs some fine detail
thu Just as long as you can make the fine movements required for
the test.
Alex

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Mike Nicholls said:

I also believe you need macro and micro detail in the target for
the autofocus to get a definite lock. Then zoom to 1:1 pixels to
check the micro detail and thus how good focus actually is.
Mike

ajs2 said:

I guess you could use any rule and target(needs some fine detail
thu Just as long as you can make the fine movements required for
the test.
Alex

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

Matt Chroust said:

Had you intended to include a scan of your actual target? I see
here the test results.

Thanks & regards

Matt

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

--
Matt

Click to expand...

Mike Nicholls said:

Matt Chroust said:

Had you intended to include a scan of your actual target? I see
here the test results.

Thanks & regards

Matt

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

--
Matt

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Matt Chroust said:

Didn't you just post 6 versions of it? I guess I am confused!

Regards,

Matt

Mike Nicholls said:

Matt Chroust said:

Had you intended to include a scan of your actual target? I see
here the test results.

Thanks & regards

Matt

Mike Nicholls said:

Here is a rather crude but effective test you can carry out to see
if you have a backfocus problem with your S2. This test proved a
displacement problem with the CCD in my S2 relative to the reflex
finder mirror system and autofocus module. The CCD was subsequently
shimmed to the correct position by Fuji and returned to me. I then
returned the camera for further alignment due to ongoing focus
problems and it was replaced.

I am not a camera tech and this is certainly not a test bench, but
this test does establish if there is a problem or not and you may
have extension bellows like this in your kit bag. Take care not to
move the focussing when going from auto to manual focus. Record the
0mm position in both autofocus mode and immediately you move to
manual focus. You can then check both these images at 100% in
Photoshop to ensure the focus cam has not been displaced before you
come to any conclusions.

This halftone printed image was chosen because it has both macro
and micro definition ie. large vertical and horizontal edges in
macro (wide angle) and the florettes of the printing colours in
micro (to check when 100% closeup in Photoshop). This way it is
easy to tell if the subject is in focus or not. Apologies to Dark
Side in advance, but it was ideal for this test purpose.

Note how difficult it is to check if the image is in accurate focus
when you are looking at 1:1 through the viewfinder at this detailed
subject.

This is just an attempt to get an objective rather than subjective
handle on the S2 focussing poroblems that some people are having.

Below is the test result jpg along with shots of the very simple
test jig. A firm (concrete) floor is recommended for both camera
tripod and jig stand to be placed on when testing. Any wooden
flooring will introduce some degradation. Wait for a few seconds
between adjusting the racking and taking the shot to allow the
stand oscillations to dampen down to zero.

A prime Nikkor 50mm 1.8 (or 1.4) would be good to test with IMHO.

Any comment from a camera tech with expertise in this area would be
welcome and appreciated by many of us with these problems.

Here is the jpg .. 8" x 10" at 250dpi if you want to print it.



Mike Nicholls
http://www.hocusfocus.com.au

Click to expand...

--
Matt

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

--
Matt

Click to expand...