Pixels & Noise

I don't know why, but the user gallery doesn't seem to be working for me at the moment, otherwise I would post my test images. I was able to upload the ISO 6400 image, but not the ISO 100 image. My ISO 6400 image looks just like the two you posted previously. But you must test at ISO 100 and other normal ISO's.

Hopefully with my suggestions, you'll see that you're kind of freaking out about nothing.
Hello Brad

Please see the thread for solving the problem of posting photos
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=37998986

I will appreciate if you could post your test as I did the similar test last night and found white bright hot pixels start to show up like milky-way when ISO6400 and ss 2s

Thanks
 
Every digital camera produces noise, especially on long exposures when the electronics heat up. That is why there is long exposure noise reduction. It takes another picture with your camera without the shutter open for the same length of time. It then subtracts the noisy/hot pixels from the original image. As far as hot pixels, every camera will on occasion get a hot pixel. You simply fix it in post processing. Some post processing programs automatically do that.

Go out and enjoy your camera. You can find something wrong with anything if you look hard enough. Life is too short to waste your time.
Looks like I have 2 duff D7000's.
No, it looks like you don't understand what you're testing for.
So how do I test for hot pixels & noise?
--
As far as possible, without surrender,
be on good terms with all persons.
-- Max Ehrmann
 
@ pwrtran and others.

The test I did @ ISO 6400 was simple. Manual mode with the lens cap on. I set the AF/M lever next to the lens to M (Manual) so that the camera won't search for focus. Shouldn't matter what lens you use.

Just set your ISO to 6400.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction = ON
High ISO NR (Noise Reduction) = NORM

Make sure Auto ISO is off.

That should be about all I can think of that would effect noise in the image, aside from a bad CCD.

Same settings for ISO 100 test also. Easy beezy!
 
I thank you for you opinion & many others on this thread but are we just not admitting to the D7000's failings cause we have spent £1000's on it.

I did this test because I hoped i'd be pixel free & I had a fault develop on my 1st D7000 which was a blow costing as much as t did.

I bought a second hoping to hit the nail on the head but it turned out to be a mistake. Hot pixels on the video & installing the firmware 10 times & it making no difference. I guess I have to put up & shut up & make do.

Again thanks & C U soon
Every digital camera produces noise, especially on long exposures when the electronics heat up. That is why there is long exposure noise reduction. It takes another picture with your camera without the shutter open for the same length of time. It then subtracts the noisy/hot pixels from the original image. As far as hot pixels, every camera will on occasion get a hot pixel. You simply fix it in post processing. Some post processing programs automatically do that.

Go out and enjoy your camera. You can find something wrong with anything if you look hard enough. Life is too short to waste your time.
Looks like I have 2 duff D7000's.
No, it looks like you don't understand what you're testing for.
So how do I test for hot pixels & noise?
--
As far as possible, without surrender,
be on good terms with all persons.
-- Max Ehrmann
 
I thank you for you opinion & many others on this thread but are we just not admitting to the D7000's failings cause we have spent £1000's on it.

I did this test because I hoped i'd be pixel free & I had a fault develop on my 1st D7000 which was a blow costing as much as t did.

I bought a second hoping to hit the nail on the head but it turned out to be a mistake. Hot pixels on the video & installing the firmware 10 times & it making no difference. I guess I have to put up & shut up & make do.

Again thanks & C U soon
Every digital camera produces noise, especially on long exposures when the electronics heat up. That is why there is long exposure noise reduction. It takes another picture with your camera without the shutter open for the same length of time. It then subtracts the noisy/hot pixels from the original image. As far as hot pixels, every camera will on occasion get a hot pixel. You simply fix it in post processing. Some post processing programs automatically do that.

Go out and enjoy your camera. You can find something wrong with anything if you look hard enough. Life is too short to waste your time.
Looks like I have 2 duff D7000's.
No, it looks like you don't understand what you're testing for.
So how do I test for hot pixels & noise?
--
As far as possible, without surrender,
be on good terms with all persons.
-- Max Ehrmann
Wow your kidding right? Everyone is in denial for spending so much. Some people here spend so much money on electronics that the D7000 is like a drop in the bucket lol. In all fairness there was probably nothing wrong with your first D7000 just like there appears to be nothing wrong with your current D7000. Installing a firmware 10 times is that even possible? and why would you do that?
 
To try to get rid of the hot pixels in the video mode - which didn't work on the 2nd D7000.
Thanks
I thank you for you opinion & many others on this thread but are we just not admitting to the D7000's failings cause we have spent £1000's on it.

I did this test because I hoped i'd be pixel free & I had a fault develop on my 1st D7000 which was a blow costing as much as t did.

I bought a second hoping to hit the nail on the head but it turned out to be a mistake. Hot pixels on the video & installing the firmware 10 times & it making no difference. I guess I have to put up & shut up & make do.

Again thanks & C U soon
Every digital camera produces noise, especially on long exposures when the electronics heat up. That is why there is long exposure noise reduction. It takes another picture with your camera without the shutter open for the same length of time. It then subtracts the noisy/hot pixels from the original image. As far as hot pixels, every camera will on occasion get a hot pixel. You simply fix it in post processing. Some post processing programs automatically do that.

Go out and enjoy your camera. You can find something wrong with anything if you look hard enough. Life is too short to waste your time.
Looks like I have 2 duff D7000's.
No, it looks like you don't understand what you're testing for.
So how do I test for hot pixels & noise?
--
As far as possible, without surrender,
be on good terms with all persons.
-- Max Ehrmann
Wow your kidding right? Everyone is in denial for spending so much. Some people here spend so much money on electronics that the D7000 is like a drop in the bucket lol. In all fairness there was probably nothing wrong with your first D7000 just like there appears to be nothing wrong with your current D7000. Installing a firmware 10 times is that even possible? and why would you do that?
 
this thread is subject to the law of diminishing returns! None of us are going to solve the OP's issue with his cameras. :)
--
Dave
D3100
 
Dave1812, I think I can analyze his problem with about 5 years of testing to determine how stable the sensor actual is. If the OP would like me to test the camera he may emil me and I will send him my address. I have 30 years of experience testing imaging sensors and measuring their CTFs.
--
Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
 
Dave1812, I think I can analyze his problem with about 5 years of testing to determine how stable the sensor actual is. If the OP would like me to test the camera he may emil me and I will send him my address. I have 30 years of experience testing imaging sensors and measuring their CTFs.
--
Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
Hi Jerry

What do you need to do the analysis?
1) just the image file with EXIF? or/and
2) the camera body and lens?
3) any fee?
 
LoL, I think he was kidding because the OP is in denial that his camera works perfectly.
 
C'mon guys (and girls), we need to stop feeding the anal OCD folks who can't wait to take shots of the inside of a lens cap. Make posts like these go away by not replying.

Yes, I know that I am replying, but that's because no one else has brought up this point in this thread. Hopefully this will get buried soon so more useful threads can surface.

Cheers.

--
Keep on keepin' on
Eddie
 
GO TAKE SOME REAL PICS and quit trying to find something
wrong with your equipment!!!!
 
I think we are having some fun at the OP expense. However, maybe there should be a simple set of tests for noise, resolution, exposure, and focus which people who feel they are having problems with their cameras could try and post their results for analysis. Some of the tests people come up with, such as this one, are not appropriate (i'm being nice) for the concern they are trying to asses.
--
Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
 
Exif For Picture 1:

Equipment Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D7000
Camera Software: Ver.1.01
Maximum Lens Aperture: f/1.7
Sensing Method: One-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern: 980
Focal Length (35mm Equiv): 52 mm

Image-Specific Properties:

Image Orientation: Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution: 300 dpi
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Image Created: 2011:03:17 18:16:38
Exposure Time: 30 sec
F-Number: f/1.8
Exposure Program: Manual
ISO Speed Rating: 6400
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length: 35.00 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 4928
Image Height: 3264
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Manual
Scene Capture Type: Standard
Gain Control: High Gain Up
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Hard
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
ISO Speed Used: 6400
Image Quality: FINE
White Balance: AUTO1
Focus Mode: MANUAL
Flash Setting: NORMAL
Flash Compensation: 0.0 EV
ISO Speed Requested: 6400
Flash Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
AE Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
Lens Type: Nikon D Series
Lens Range: 35.0 mm; f/1.8
Shooting/Bracketing Mode: Single Frame/Off

Exif for Picture 2:

Equipment Make: NIKON CORPORATION
Camera Model: NIKON D7000
Camera Software: Ver.1.01
Maximum Lens Aperture: f/1.7
Sensing Method: One-Chip Color Area
Color Filter Array Pattern: 980
Focal Length (35mm Equiv): 52 mm

Image-Specific Properties:

Image Orientation: Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution: 300 dpi
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Image Created: 2011:03:17 18:23:23
Exposure Time: 15 sec
F-Number: f/1.8
Exposure Program: Manual
ISO Speed Rating: 6400
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: No Flash, Compulsory
Focal Length: 35.00 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 4928
Image Height: 3264
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Manual
Scene Capture Type: Standard
Gain Control: High Gain Up
Contrast: Normal
Saturation: Normal
Sharpness: Hard
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
ISO Speed Used: 6400
Image Quality: NORMAL
White Balance: AUTO1
Focus Mode: MANUAL
Flash Setting: NORMAL
Flash Compensation: 0.0 EV
ISO Speed Requested: 6400
Flash Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
AE Bracket Compensation: 0.0 EV
Lens Type: Nikon D Series
Lens Range: 35.0 mm; f/1.8
Shooting/Bracketing Mode: Single Frame/Off
Noise Reduction: OFF

Thanks
 
It's a pity that instead of enjoying the camera (you do take nice pics) you let your fun be spoiled by a useless test. Who the hell told you this is noise or hotpixels???? You're wrong. You could just as well look at static on an old unplugged TV (remember Poltergeist?) You're looking at random generated noise by amplification and heating up of the sensor. A hot or stuck pixel would stand out like a star in a nightly sky. I you really believe that this whole community is in denial, then you have bigger problems though...
Both images you supplied are fine. No evidence of a single faulty pixel.
------------------------------------------------
http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh315/alex_837/
Just trying to get better.....
 

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