Dominique Dierick
Veteran Member
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Equipment: Nikon D3s, D7000
Equipment: Nikon D3s, D7000
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More than a sigle problem !
- Thread starter pwrtran
- Start date
alanscape
Forum Enthusiast
1) Stop down a bit or crop... some lenses do this at certain aperures.
2) It's lens flare, you can clearly see the diaphragm points.
3) Use AF-S and take a bit more note of D of F.
2) It's lens flare, you can clearly see the diaphragm points.
3) Use AF-S and take a bit more note of D of F.
southcountrhguy
Forum Enthusiast
The red and orange color hot pixels are caused both from reflection off the snow and light passing through the individual crystals that are acting like a prism. Please research hot pixels on here and google regarding this and your comment on hot pixels and video.
I will agree that you do have 'more than a single problem' and none of them are with the camera. Quit blaming it, pretty, pretty please. I am not trying to be rude just blunt.
You really need to do a lot of reading and practice. At the moment this is way too much camera for you. With lots of effort on your part you can change this.
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Nikon D90
WSSA #237
RJNedimyer
Veteran Member
BTW Why when something took up such a little amount of the photo did you not go to 105mm? instead of 80mm
Absolutely and $20,000 lenses will do that pay attention even movies have it reasons Sun [or other light just off camera], Flash [micro particles in the air], dried water spots on the lens, dust on the lens or in the air, ...
Yes what did you focus on???
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Ray
RJNedimyer
dkearl
Forum Enthusiast
Not trying to pile on but seriously, just because you have a keyboard and internet access doesn't mean you need to post.
The first shot, a bird in flight at 80mm and 1/200?
You expect a good result?
I have the 18-105, have never had vignetting, but then, I don't try to use it for shots it is not meant for.
You still shouldn't have had a problem, but I don't think it is the camera, probably just the light from looking straight up.
The second, well if you are going to use a flash why iso3200?
Really, do a bit of study or take a class or something?
The amount of people who post here with "problems" that don't have a clue is embarrassing and I am not picking on you.
You said you just bought the camera, use it for a week or two at least before you post and complain about the equipment.
The third photo is just out of focus and looks like user error.
The first shot, a bird in flight at 80mm and 1/200?
You expect a good result?
I have the 18-105, have never had vignetting, but then, I don't try to use it for shots it is not meant for.
You still shouldn't have had a problem, but I don't think it is the camera, probably just the light from looking straight up.
The second, well if you are going to use a flash why iso3200?
Really, do a bit of study or take a class or something?
The amount of people who post here with "problems" that don't have a clue is embarrassing and I am not picking on you.
You said you just bought the camera, use it for a week or two at least before you post and complain about the equipment.
The third photo is just out of focus and looks like user error.
E
engbert
Guest
1/ For birds in flight you need a faster shutter speed, ideally1/2000th sec, but certainly faster than the 1/200th used here. Set your auto iso to max iso of 3200 and miniumun shutter speed of 1/1000 at least. Then you need 9 or 21 point dynamic area AF and continuous mode.
2/ I agree with Waimak Stud that this is due to flash bouncing off something. It is nothing wrong with the filter. Flash does not really work for such a scene - notice how bright the foreground grass is, and how little light is on the trees. For this scene you need single point AF - you have to decide what to focus on. You do lose some sharpness at high iso.
3/ Here you should be using single shot AF and single point. I cannnot tell what you were focussing on. You should be able to hold the camera still enough at 1/200th but that is not guaranteed - there could be a little motion artefact. This is most likely, as there does not seem to be any point which is sharp. The high iso could be a problem here also. If you have an autofocus problem, usually something will be in focus - just not what you intended.
So you always need to be aware of the focus mode and the focus point pattern. You can always check those using the Info button.
If you think there might be something wrong with your camera causing lack of sharpness, always test on a tripod with decent shutter speeds, ideally with a remote or self timer.
You should also compare the results of normal autofocus and autofocus in live view. If there is a difference, you might have a back or front focus problem.
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http://www.pbase.com/bertramm
pbase & dpreview supporter
2/ I agree with Waimak Stud that this is due to flash bouncing off something. It is nothing wrong with the filter. Flash does not really work for such a scene - notice how bright the foreground grass is, and how little light is on the trees. For this scene you need single point AF - you have to decide what to focus on. You do lose some sharpness at high iso.
3/ Here you should be using single shot AF and single point. I cannnot tell what you were focussing on. You should be able to hold the camera still enough at 1/200th but that is not guaranteed - there could be a little motion artefact. This is most likely, as there does not seem to be any point which is sharp. The high iso could be a problem here also. If you have an autofocus problem, usually something will be in focus - just not what you intended.
So you always need to be aware of the focus mode and the focus point pattern. You can always check those using the Info button.
If you think there might be something wrong with your camera causing lack of sharpness, always test on a tripod with decent shutter speeds, ideally with a remote or self timer.
You should also compare the results of normal autofocus and autofocus in live view. If there is a difference, you might have a back or front focus problem.
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http://www.pbase.com/bertramm
pbase & dpreview supporter
Thanks a lot! That's informative. I believe that the gear does much less mistakes than a person does like me, I will keep trying!
Jerry R
Veteran Member
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Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
R Dunlop
Leading Member
Vignetting is normally caused by the lens seeing the 'edge' of an attached filter or lens hood when wide open? If you have filters fitted take them off and compare the results, also try without the lens hood when at max lens width.
The light spots on photo two are just flare type reflections caused by stray light sources hitting the lens.
The last pic I think took its focus point at a distance equal to the shop front area to the left. The faces outside the shop are about the sharpest in the scene. OK, at f3.5 your depth of field is very narrow so not much in front and to the rear of the focus point will be sharp. (Google up a depth of field chart). You also have ISO3200 and I think this has made the scene quite noisy adding to poor sharpness. 1/200sec should be OK if you are nice and steady but if you snapped quickly with subjects at the focus point moving in the scene there could be some loss of sharpness from this as well? Add this all together and I hope you see my point? Other than that you ( and the camera) just missed the focus in this shot, it happens.
The light spots on photo two are just flare type reflections caused by stray light sources hitting the lens.
The last pic I think took its focus point at a distance equal to the shop front area to the left. The faces outside the shop are about the sharpest in the scene. OK, at f3.5 your depth of field is very narrow so not much in front and to the rear of the focus point will be sharp. (Google up a depth of field chart). You also have ISO3200 and I think this has made the scene quite noisy adding to poor sharpness. 1/200sec should be OK if you are nice and steady but if you snapped quickly with subjects at the focus point moving in the scene there could be some loss of sharpness from this as well? Add this all together and I hope you see my point? Other than that you ( and the camera) just missed the focus in this shot, it happens.
I tried with/without the UV filter, various focus length, stop down the aperture, no remarkable difference in terms of the vignetting. Very sad.
I understood the flare problem is due shooting face the bright light source (sun light), I will pay more attention to the light conditions.
I also did some shots on flowers, AF-s, 9 point, holding the D7k firmly, I got a feeling that might be some back focusing as lot of expert found out. I may try what the Cameralab suggested to fine tune the AF.
huon_mark
Member
I don't think AF Fine-Tune is called for just yet.
Picture 1: As noted, vignetting. Will be less noticeable if you get more exposure - if the sky was much brighter, you'd probably find it less objectionable. Anyway, you'd crop this picture a lot...
Picture 2: May also be caused by tiny raindrops or dust on the lens/filter, but I tend to think, like most others, they are flare from bright reflections/lights just outside your field of view.
Picture 3: Not sure we're all thinking clearly about this one. Focus points are all over the centre of the picture, and one off to the left. This latter seems to have picked up a white/grey tile border as having sufficient contrast to be of use to the AF system. With the lens at 18mm a lot of the picture is going to appear to the AF system to be in acceptable focus, even over a range of lens focus distances. (Try it with a wide-angle lens, the little green circle in the viewfinder will indicate accurate focus over a range of focus distances when you focus manually, depending on the subject. Means you have to accept the AF is not necessarily going to always get it spot-on, any more than you can by eye.) The lens claims to have focused at 2.11m which would be somewhere on the foreground tins I suppose. (Acquired via ExifToolGUI) However in my experience the distance doesn't always equate to an absolute distance and can vary across focal lengths and lenses. The softness surely comes from the wide-open aperture (most lenses are softer wide open than stopped down a little) and the high ISO. This photo looks sharp when you don't blow it up much, but does not indicate any focus problem at all. The blokes outside the shop to the left are not sharper than the tins in the centre, they all seem about equally slightly soft. Solution: Stop down a little more, use lower ISO.
If you are using a UV filter, maybe try it without the filter. Yes, if you're not careful you can damage your lens, but that is rare. In my exprience, UV filters just reduce quality. The filter may have contributed to flare in picture 2. They can certainly hold dust etc further from the front element of a lens such that they come more into focus
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Mark
Huonville Tas
Picture 1: As noted, vignetting. Will be less noticeable if you get more exposure - if the sky was much brighter, you'd probably find it less objectionable. Anyway, you'd crop this picture a lot...
Picture 2: May also be caused by tiny raindrops or dust on the lens/filter, but I tend to think, like most others, they are flare from bright reflections/lights just outside your field of view.
Picture 3: Not sure we're all thinking clearly about this one. Focus points are all over the centre of the picture, and one off to the left. This latter seems to have picked up a white/grey tile border as having sufficient contrast to be of use to the AF system. With the lens at 18mm a lot of the picture is going to appear to the AF system to be in acceptable focus, even over a range of lens focus distances. (Try it with a wide-angle lens, the little green circle in the viewfinder will indicate accurate focus over a range of focus distances when you focus manually, depending on the subject. Means you have to accept the AF is not necessarily going to always get it spot-on, any more than you can by eye.) The lens claims to have focused at 2.11m which would be somewhere on the foreground tins I suppose. (Acquired via ExifToolGUI) However in my experience the distance doesn't always equate to an absolute distance and can vary across focal lengths and lenses. The softness surely comes from the wide-open aperture (most lenses are softer wide open than stopped down a little) and the high ISO. This photo looks sharp when you don't blow it up much, but does not indicate any focus problem at all. The blokes outside the shop to the left are not sharper than the tins in the centre, they all seem about equally slightly soft. Solution: Stop down a little more, use lower ISO.
If you are using a UV filter, maybe try it without the filter. Yes, if you're not careful you can damage your lens, but that is rare. In my exprience, UV filters just reduce quality. The filter may have contributed to flare in picture 2. They can certainly hold dust etc further from the front element of a lens such that they come more into focus
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Mark
Huonville Tas
kormendi_adam
Leading Member
I agree 100% with everything you said.
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