ballhead Acratech BP vs. Really Right Stuff BH-40 w/ 7D

I am thinking about getting a good ballhead for use with my 7D; 28-70mm f2.8L; 100-400 f4-5.6L IS; 50mm f1.4; 70-200mm f4L USM not IS; 28-135mm f3.5-6.5 IS and 580EX II speedlight. I shoot scenery, people inside/outside, some sports and have tried BIF and hummers.

I haven't decided on upgrading to a really good tripod. A friend has loaned-to-buy a Slik Pro 700DX tripod; Manfrotto 322RC2 ballhead; Manfrotto 685B monopod; Manfrotto 3229 QR head and Induro MXA44 monopod. I like the Manfrotto 685B monopod and the Slik tripod. I will probably purchase these at heavily discounted price from her. I do not like the Manfrotto 322RC2 ballhead and the Manfrotto 3229 QR head does not appear to have the strength to hold the 7D along with 28-70, 70-200 or 100-400. I will probably not purchase these from her. I know that eventually I will probably want to get a better tripod but right now I want to take this a step at a time. I usually get very good or better equipment and overspend now to avoid disappointment later. I've never worked from a good tripod but do want to improve my pictures. Aging and the inability to hold the camera steady enough have caused me to either miss shots or have to compensate too much with shutter speed or aperture.

So,,,, I am looking for a good ballhead. The Really Right Stuff BH-40 comes highly recommended on this site and in several reviews and appears sufficient for my current hardware and what I would use it for. Then again, the Acratech BP is also highly recommended and I think would be sufficient for my hardware and use.

Something that intrigues me about the Acratech BP is the ability to flip it over and have a perfectly level platform for panoramas--i.e. no need to level the tripod. This is something that Really Right Stuff BH-40 can't do, at least by itself. RRS does have a panorama QR plate that accomplishes the same thing but that's another $235. I also understand that really good panoramas will require a nodal rail and possibly other additional add-ons. Apparently this whole topic can get very expensive! But whoever said it wasn't?

Before I make a decision on purchase of some of the loaned equipment and/or a ballhead, I thought I would reach out to all of you to ask for your feedback on any of my thoughts above. Even when many of you disagree as is inevitable, I learn from your opinions. After giving the tread time to finish, I'll make a decision and let you know how it works out. Please ask away if I didn't give you enough background/information. Thanks in advance!

I just purchaced the Aractech GP...is that what you mean? It is very expensive but you know that. A fine head, solid as a rock and versatile. Keep in mind you can also use it as a gimbal head. Others will have different opinions, to each his or her own. I like my GP very much.

My bad. Yes, I meant the Acratech GP. Changed the subject accordingly. Thanks for the correction and your input. Did you consider the RRS and if so, what made you go with the Acratech? Do you use any heavier lenses with the GP?

underpaid said:

I just purchaced the Aractech GP...is that what you mean? It is very expensive but you know that. A fine head, solid as a rock and versatile. Keep in mind you can also use it as a gimbal head. Others will have different opinions, to each his or her own. I like my GP very much.

Click to expand...

I did consider RRS and Kirk as well as a couple Manfrotto heads, but finally decided on the GP for the overall versatility over the others. All were in generally the "same ballpark" as far as price goes (ouch). I use it mainly with the 7D and the Canon 70-300L IS. This is not a real heavy combination, but well below the weight limits for both the head and the Manfrotto 055CXV3 tripod. I spent WAY more than I should have!

You might also want to consider the Markins Q10. I've owned one for close to 5 years. I've tried my best to torture this and it is still like new. Check out photos from my main gallery - it's a solid lens, love the spin in the main wheel to set a locking point and how sturdy it is.....

Do research and you'll find this one is a winner.... sorry to complicate, but FYI.

Regards,
John Lehmkuhl

--
*********************************************************
Main Photo Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/realkuhl

Good advise and I will look further at the Markins Q10.
Thanks for the feedback.

John Lehmkuhl said:

You might also want to consider the Markins Q10. I've owned one for close to 5 years. I've tried my best to torture this and it is still like new. Check out photos from my main gallery - it's a solid lens, love the spin in the main wheel to set a locking point and how sturdy it is.....

Do research and you'll find this one is a winner.... sorry to complicate, but FYI.

Regards,
John Lehmkuhl

--
*********************************************************
Main Photo Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/realkuhl

Click to expand...

I have the Canon 30D and use the 70-200L f/2.8 IS and the 100-400L. I have the Wimberley P20 Lens plate on the collars of both my lenses.

I also use the Wimberley P5 Universal camera plate mounted on the camera for my lighter camera/lens combos.

I don't have one single complaint with this ball head . Not One .

• Silky smooth movement.
• Rock solid locking.
• No drifting after locking.
• Independent indexed panning about its base.
• Weighs 30 ounces, and supports 50 pounds.
• My personal preference was with the thumb screw type versus the cam lever found on the Markin and the Really Right Stuff heads.

Kirk BH-1
http://www.kirkphoto.com/BH-1_Ball_Head.html

Best Regards, Mike

--
B.R.A.S.S. (Breathe, Relax, Aim, Sight, Squeeze)

Another vote for Markins, it came to the top when I was doing my shopping research. After 3 years it's still like new, solidly build piece.
http://photography.consumerelectronicsnet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=727459

John Lehmkuhl said:

You might also want to consider the Markins Q10. I've owned one for close to 5 years. I've tried my best to torture this and it is still like new. Check out photos from my main gallery - it's a solid lens, love the spin in the main wheel to set a locking point and how sturdy it is.....

Do research and you'll find this one is a winner.... sorry to complicate, but FYI.

Regards,
John Lehmkuhl

--
*********************************************************
Main Photo Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/realkuhl

Click to expand...

JKad said:

Something that intrigues me about the Acratech BP is the ability to flip it over and have a perfectly level platform for panoramas--i.e. no need to level the tripod. This is something that Really Right Stuff BH-40 can't do, at least by itself. RRS does have a panorama QR plate that accomplishes the same thing but that's another $235. I also understand that really good panoramas will require a nodal rail and possibly other additional add-ons. Apparently this whole topic can get very expensive! But whoever said it wasn't?

Click to expand...

I've been using the Acratech GPs for about a month, and am impressed. It does all the regular things a good ballhead does, without noticeable droop and with good smoothness. I have used the gimbal option with my 100-400. It is no doubt not the equivalent of a true gimbal, but it does serve reasonably well, and avoids the need to carry additional equipment. It will only work when the lens is mounted with a foot, so you'll want to get an aftermarket collar for your 70-200.

The panorama mode shows promise. I have adapted my Nodal Ninja rail to the Arca-Swiss clamp by removing the NN rotator and substituting a Markins universal plate. That way I can use the Acratech panning base (inverted) as the rotator. It isn't ideal -- I miss the click stops on the NN rotator, and the degree markings on the Acratech are hard to see under all the apparatus -- but it will work and saves me some weight and equipment redundancy.

Dave
--
http://www.pbase.com/dsjtecserv

You guys aren't going to make this easy are you? There was no clear winner to me either; thus the reason for my questions.

Given the accolades for the Markins, I'll need to consider it further. What is it that sets the Markins apart from the others in your experience? Does it do any one (or more) thing(s) better or does it have features that set it apart? I know, it's a ballhead; if it does its job really well, what more do I want? I am just looking for something to help me actually decide for my use.

Andrew_WOT said:

Another vote for Markins, it came to the top when I was doing my shopping research. After 3 years it's still like new, solidly build piece.
http://photography.consumerelectronicsnet.com/articles/viewarticle.jsp?id=727459

John Lehmkuhl said:

You might also want to consider the Markins Q10. I've owned one for close to 5 years. I've tried my best to torture this and it is still like new. Check out photos from my main gallery - it's a solid lens, love the spin in the main wheel to set a locking point and how sturdy it is.....

Do research and you'll find this one is a winner.... sorry to complicate, but FYI.

Regards,
John Lehmkuhl

--
*********************************************************
Main Photo Gallery: http://www.flickr.com/realkuhl

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

dsjtecserv said:

dsjtecserv said:

RE the Acratech GP ballhead gimbal:

Click to expand...

It will only work when the lens is mounted with a foot, so you'll want to get an aftermarket collar for your 70-200.

Click to expand...

I don't understand this statement. What is it about this ballhead that would prevent me from using the gimbal function for the 70-200 f4L without a collar? Seems like I should be able to mount the camera with a plate to the QR clamp, take the ballhead to 90 degrees and shoot away. I am a noob with this subject I know but what am I missing? Would I be able to use the gimbal for the 28-70 that has no collar option?

dsjtecserv said:

The panorama mode shows promise. I have adapted my Nodal Ninja rail to the Arca-Swiss clamp by removing the NN rotator and substituting a Markins universal plate. That way I can use the Acratech panning base (inverted) as the rotator. It isn't ideal -- I miss the click stops on the NN rotator, and the degree markings on the Acratech are hard to see under all the apparatus -- but it will work and saves me some weight and equipment redundancy.

Dave
--

Click to expand...

I would be starting off with no other nodal point hardware. This would be a future use for me but Acratech does have a totally different approach with this GP head from the others.
THanks for your feeback. Very helpful!

JKad said:

dsjtecserv said:

JKad said:

RE the Acratech GP ballhead gimbal:

Click to expand...

It will only work when the lens is mounted with a foot, so you'll want to get an aftermarket collar for your 70-200.

Click to expand...

I don't understand this statement. What is it about this ballhead that would prevent me from using the gimbal function for the 70-200 f4L without a collar? Seems like I should be able to mount the camera with a plate to the QR clamp, take the ballhead to 90 degrees and shoot away. I am a noob with this subject I know but what am I missing? Would I be able to use the gimbal for the 28-70 that has no collar option?

Click to expand...

In the gimbal mode you leave the ball friction and the base rotation friction loose -- essentially it is free to move wherever you point it, without resistance. But for this to work effectively the lens and camera must be balanced (or else it would just flop down one way or the other). The normal location of the collar provides close to good balance, depending on the body.You can certainly mount the body directly to the tripod head, but since it won't be in balance it won't be like a gimbal. It will essentially be the same as any other ball head; you will need to tighten the ball as necessary to keep the lens from drooping down, and it won't have the free movement of a gimbal. There's nothing wrong with that, it's just not unique.

JKad said:

I would be starting off with no other nodal point hardware. This would be a future use for me but Acratech does have a totally different approach with this GP head from the others.

Click to expand...

Yes, that would simplify the step of moving to panoramas, when the time comes, since the ball would function as a leveling base and the inverted base as a rotator.

Dave
--
http://www.pbase.com/dsjtecserv

OK I think I get it now. As long as I can lock down or apply friction with the ballhead and use the camera/lens in that orientation, that's what I would expect; just like any other ballhead.

I've never liked not having a collar for the 70-200 f4 non IS. I know that Canon says its not necessary but I still don't like it; so the collar has been on my shopping list for some time, just hasn't hit the top of the list yet.
Thanks again, you've been very instructive.

dsjtecserv said:

JKad said:

dsjtecserv said:

dsjtecserv said:

RE the Acratech GP ballhead gimbal:

Click to expand...

It will only work when the lens is mounted with a foot, so you'll want to get an aftermarket collar for your 70-200.

Click to expand...

I don't understand this statement. What is it about this ballhead that would prevent me from using the gimbal function for the 70-200 f4L without a collar? Seems like I should be able to mount the camera with a plate to the QR clamp, take the ballhead to 90 degrees and shoot away. I am a noob with this subject I know but what am I missing? Would I be able to use the gimbal for the 28-70 that has no collar option?

Click to expand...

In the gimbal mode you leave the ball friction and the base rotation friction loose -- essentially it is free to move wherever you point it, without resistance. But for this to work effectively the lens and camera must be balanced (or else it would just flop down one way or the other). The normal location of the collar provides close to good balance, depending on the body.You can certainly mount the body directly to the tripod head, but since it won't be in balance it won't be like a gimbal. It will essentially be the same as any other ball head; you will need to tighten the ball as necessary to keep the lens from drooping down, and it won't have the free movement of a gimbal. There's nothing wrong with that, it's just not unique.

dsjtecserv said:

I would be starting off with no other nodal point hardware. This would be a future use for me but Acratech does have a totally different approach with this GP head from the others.

Click to expand...

Yes, that would simplify the step of moving to panoramas, when the time comes, since the ball would function as a leveling base and the inverted base as a rotator.

Dave
--
http://www.pbase.com/dsjtecserv

Click to expand...

There wasn't much interest in the original thread but I promised to get back with my decision, so here goes:

--There was surprisingly no response whatsoever from anyone owning a Really Right Stuff ballhead let alone anyone who had actually tried both a RRS and Acratech. I couldn't draw an informed conclusion from this lack of reply.
--Only one response from an Acratech GP owner and that was positive.

--Most replys were from owners of other ballheads in support of the ballhead they owned.

First, let me say that ballheads from all the leading manufacturers are solidly build and are probably more than sufficient for my use. So it came down to features.

I chose the Acratech GP ballhead. Here's why and why not the others:
--RRS BH-40

One configuration comes with a lever QR plate. At first I thought I would prefer a lever over a screw/knob. On further reflection, I could see that lever someday being opened when not expected with possible disastrous results. Anyone with a lever will say that is unlikely and I don't disagree but would prefer removing the potential. There is a BH-40 screw/knob QR configuration but that has a larger size QR plate that will/can hit the tripod so it is best to have an L bracket for use with this QR plate. I don't want to have to use an L bracket to have the flexibility of full use of the ballhead.

The main locking mechanism is also a lever. Not my preference for the reasons above

Lots of things I liked on the RRS and the larger BH-55 has knobs and the full size QR plate. No way I need or will need the capacity of the BH-55.

--Markins and Kirk both have knobs instead of levers and QR plates with knobs that would work quite well. I was impressed by these ballheads and I am sure they would give me many many years of good use. But...

--Acratech GP
has knobs, not levers
just like the others, does all the things a ballhead should do really well
build quality is on par with the others

unlike the others, Acratech has an open ball design making it easier to keep the ball clean
full size QR plate with knob and bubble level

QR plate has retractable pin to help prevent camera slipping out of plate (honestly if it came to this pin keeping that from happening, it would likely be dumb luck)
Setting drag and locking tension at least as easy as others and better than some

The one BIG difference is the ability to reconfigure the base/QR plate so that the ballhead can do panoramas without the need for a panorama QR plate. The others require other hardware at $200+ to do the same thing.

So, there you have it. My choice and the reasons why. I'll let you know if I really messed up

I have had the Acratech GP for at least 18 months now. For me it is the perfect ballhead combination - in that it also supports a gimbal and panning functions. It was the ability to invert the unit and use it for panning that convinced me to part with the $400 (actually $389 - bought it from a camera store in Indiana and they dropped ship free directly from the manufacturer, 2 day shipping). The gimbal turns out to have been an added bonus - as it has come in real handy. Its build is absolutely incredible - extraordinary in its machining, fit and finish. After a year and a half of use, its condition is brand new, not a mark on it - so for me its pretty much in-destructible and will probably easily out live me. In terms of nodal rails, I have never used them since I am sufficiently far enough away, that parallax is not a problem - plus it would just be another item to carry.

The only problem that I have ever had was with the TSA when I was traveling. They could not figure out what it was on the X-Ray (because it looks so strange) when my backpack was going through - so they pulled me over to have a look.

Never had any slippage at all, even with a nodal ninja on top or with my old Pentax K 28mm shift lens - which is built like a tank (metal and glass) and weighs like one too.

pretty impressive, just a quick twist around the center and its locked, quick twist and loose, nice mobility range; i got rid of my manfrotto pistol grip head pretty quickly, it seemed awesome at very first but then so many issues with it and usage and the arca is vastly better than the manfrotto normal ballheads too

it even supports 5D2+300 2.8 IS + 1.4x TC and locks it tight

and the locking is much quicker than with most ballheads

it's also oil-free and uses and elliptical ballhead instead

JKad said:

I am thinking about getting a good ballhead for use with my 7D; 28-70mm f2.8L; 100-400 f4-5.6L IS; 50mm f1.4; 70-200mm f4L USM not IS; 28-135mm f3.5-6.5 IS and 580EX II speedlight. I shoot scenery, people inside/outside, some sports and have tried BIF and hummers.

I haven't decided on upgrading to a really good tripod. A friend has loaned-to-buy a Slik Pro 700DX tripod; Manfrotto 322RC2 ballhead; Manfrotto 685B monopod; Manfrotto 3229 QR head and Induro MXA44 monopod. I like the Manfrotto 685B monopod and the Slik tripod. I will probably purchase these at heavily discounted price from her. I do not like the Manfrotto 322RC2 ballhead and the Manfrotto 3229 QR head does not appear to have the strength to hold the 7D along with 28-70, 70-200 or 100-400. I will probably not purchase these from her. I know that eventually I will probably want to get a better tripod but right now I want to take this a step at a time. I usually get very good or better equipment and overspend now to avoid disappointment later. I've never worked from a good tripod but do want to improve my pictures. Aging and the inability to hold the camera steady enough have caused me to either miss shots or have to compensate too much with shutter speed or aperture.

So,,,, I am looking for a good ballhead. The Really Right Stuff BH-40 comes highly recommended on this site and in several reviews and appears sufficient for my current hardware and what I would use it for. Then again, the Acratech BP is also highly recommended and I think would be sufficient for my hardware and use.

Something that intrigues me about the Acratech BP is the ability to flip it over and have a perfectly level platform for panoramas--i.e. no need to level the tripod. This is something that Really Right Stuff BH-40 can't do, at least by itself. RRS does have a panorama QR plate that accomplishes the same thing but that's another $235. I also understand that really good panoramas will require a nodal rail and possibly other additional add-ons. Apparently this whole topic can get very expensive! But whoever said it wasn't?

Before I make a decision on purchase of some of the loaned equipment and/or a ballhead, I thought I would reach out to all of you to ask for your feedback on any of my thoughts above. Even when many of you disagree as is inevitable, I learn from your opinions. After giving the tread time to finish, I'll make a decision and let you know how it works out. Please ask away if I didn't give you enough background/information. Thanks in advance!

Click to expand...

I personally love the separate drag tension adjustment on the RRS BH-40 which Acratech Ultimate GP Ballhead design into the main adjustment knobs.