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Pixels & Noise
- Thread starter home44
- Start date
Aborigene
Well-known member
... no comments...
I guess not yet....
bgD300
Senior Member
without exif it looks just like the back of any other lenscap.
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EXIF is embedded in photos WSSA #51 as bg5700
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My photo blog: http://birdsnbugs.wordpress.com
My camera club porfolio: http://www.pacameraclub.com/bgrant.htm
RF Stock Portfolio - http://www.dreamstime.com/resp129611
EXIF is embedded in photos WSSA #51 as bg5700
It is. I was testing for hot pixels & found em & lots of noise too. Not good
scubastevew
Member
Take them both back. :-/
drifit
Leading Member
without data, what you want us to do?
iso6400 and shutter speed of 30 seconds, produce noise, dont keep this.
iso3200 and shutter speed of 20 seconds, produce hot pixel, dont keep this too.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifit/
iso6400 and shutter speed of 30 seconds, produce noise, dont keep this.
iso3200 and shutter speed of 20 seconds, produce hot pixel, dont keep this too.
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http://www.flickr.com/photos/drifit/
binary_eye
Senior Member
Without knowing the ISO and exposure time for each shot, it's impossible to know whether or not the results are reasonable.
binary_eye
Senior Member
No, it looks like you don't understand what you're testing for.
dave1812
Senior Member
txabi
Leading Member
Let me point out the uselessness of your test. Imagine you've got a plastic bag, one of those you're given in the supermarket. Imagine this bag says -10kg limit-. But you think, oh well, let's put 50kg in it and see how it holds up. Oh, crap!! It tore apart due to weight... well, I guess it was defective . I'll return it, ask for another bag.
Do you see the ridiculousness in my example? Well, the back-of-lens-cap test is equally ridiculous. Get out of the house and use your camera in the real world, stop being paranoid about nonexistent problems.
Do you see the ridiculousness in my example? Well, the back-of-lens-cap test is equally ridiculous. Get out of the house and use your camera in the real world, stop being paranoid about nonexistent problems.
They both look good to me, but flash might have helped with this difficult shot and I noticed some back-focus too. You should adjust your AF or send your lens cap back for recalibrating.
I hope this helps.
Best regards,
Jon
I hope this helps.
Best regards,
Jon
Two different D7000 & both with bad pixels & one with a real bad case of noise(2).
1:
2:
Which one do I keep?
Both have got the lastest Firmware. Number 2 had it installed 10 times to sort the pixels on the video.
Cheers
Jerry R
Forum Pro
I saw paintings like these at MOMA back in the 60s. They were very valuable.
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Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
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Canon A2E, Sony R1, Panny TZ5, & Nikon D5000.
dave1812
Senior Member
So how do I test for hot pixels & noise?
debruyne
Senior Member
You don't get it huh? There's nothing wrong. There are no hot or stuck pixels and there is no noise, You just digitalised electronic amplification.
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dave1812
Senior Member
What debruyne said!
Stop doing bogus tests on your camera. You are driving yourself nuts and you need to start listening to the good folks here.
Dave
D3100
Stop doing bogus tests on your camera. You are driving yourself nuts and you need to start listening to the good folks here.
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Dave
D3100
Look, if you want to do a better test, then do some tests at ISO 100, 400, 800 and maybe 1200 with your lens cap on. At ISO 100, there should just be solid black for the most part, with absolutely no noise. I just took one myself at ISO 100 and one hot pixel appears on my LCD, but not on the image in either View NX or in Photoshop.
Before the firmware update in December, hot pixels were definitely a fairly major issue. I had them on my D7000 until I patched with the latest firmware. I can only assume that the firmware somehow maps out those pixels. But it is NOT unusual for there to be several hot pixels on ANY camera, no matter how good or expensive they are. I mean think about it, there are 16 MILLION individual sensors on a surface about the size of a postage stamp. Having 20 stuck pixels, or even 1 or 2 at ISO 6400, is a pretty impressive feat considering how many of these sensors are produced.
But again, do a test at ISO 100, open the image in View NX, then right click on the image. From the dropdown menu, choose Output, then Convert Files. Choose to convert to JPEG at maximum quality, don't resize the image (keep it at 16MP) If any of the boxes are checked to remove camera data, etc, be sure to uncheck them so that ALL EXIF info is saved, then save the image, and then upload to dpreview and repost.
As I said before, try more ISO's at 400, 800, etc. You WILL see a natural increase in image noise the higher you go. THIS IS 100% NORMAL!!
By looking at the two images you posted before, there is very little for us to go on. As there is no EXIF data, so we don't even know at what ISO the image was made. The images both look like they might have been shot at ISO's at or above 3200, but looks like 6400 to me.
In order for us to help you further, WE NEED the EXIF date, otherwise it's completely pointless of anyone to offer any helpful assistance, because we're only guessing.
I don't know why, but the user gallery doesn't seem to be working for me at the moment, otherwise I would post my test images. I was able to upload the ISO 6400 image, but not the ISO 100 image. My ISO 6400 image looks just like the two you posted previously. But you must test at ISO 100 and other normal ISO's.
Hopefully with my suggestions, you'll see that you're kind of freaking out about nothing.
Before the firmware update in December, hot pixels were definitely a fairly major issue. I had them on my D7000 until I patched with the latest firmware. I can only assume that the firmware somehow maps out those pixels. But it is NOT unusual for there to be several hot pixels on ANY camera, no matter how good or expensive they are. I mean think about it, there are 16 MILLION individual sensors on a surface about the size of a postage stamp. Having 20 stuck pixels, or even 1 or 2 at ISO 6400, is a pretty impressive feat considering how many of these sensors are produced.
But again, do a test at ISO 100, open the image in View NX, then right click on the image. From the dropdown menu, choose Output, then Convert Files. Choose to convert to JPEG at maximum quality, don't resize the image (keep it at 16MP) If any of the boxes are checked to remove camera data, etc, be sure to uncheck them so that ALL EXIF info is saved, then save the image, and then upload to dpreview and repost.
As I said before, try more ISO's at 400, 800, etc. You WILL see a natural increase in image noise the higher you go. THIS IS 100% NORMAL!!
By looking at the two images you posted before, there is very little for us to go on. As there is no EXIF data, so we don't even know at what ISO the image was made. The images both look like they might have been shot at ISO's at or above 3200, but looks like 6400 to me.
In order for us to help you further, WE NEED the EXIF date, otherwise it's completely pointless of anyone to offer any helpful assistance, because we're only guessing.
I don't know why, but the user gallery doesn't seem to be working for me at the moment, otherwise I would post my test images. I was able to upload the ISO 6400 image, but not the ISO 100 image. My ISO 6400 image looks just like the two you posted previously. But you must test at ISO 100 and other normal ISO's.
Hopefully with my suggestions, you'll see that you're kind of freaking out about nothing.
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