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Fast action shots HS10

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Uh, sorry about the wrong kind of football.

For UK football I suggest you up set up a bit differently. I suggest you use burst mode and tracking focus. Keep the button half down once you get oriented and aimed so the camera goes off promptly when you press the release home.

The same limits apply, you can not get every kind of action from a single place. Think and anticipate what kind of play can take place where you have a clear line of sight and work to get those situations.

Pick an area and a player and follow him as he moves through the area. Cycle through the players.

If you can you might set up behind the goalie and follow him. if in front of the net(s), you can still set up on the goalie but you might follow a striker and shoot your sequence has you see a ball come to him.

The trick, as in American football is not to try to cover the entire field. Anticipate and if yu guess right a few times the HS10 and you should get some great stuff.
 
Beery Goodness (do you brew your own?)

I see the action in every shot but I have to look for it ... zoom in on the action capture the moment as close as you can get. If you are allowed get right down on the sideline do it if not, zoom in.

have you tried burst mode?

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JB
I am not a photographer, I’m just a guy that takes pictures.
http://www.buckshot.BuckshotsPhotos.photoshare.co.nz

http://www.fujimugs.com/mugshots/show_member.php?country=&act=&hasmug=&challenge=&cat=&sortby=&sortdir=&thumb=&srch=&member=1341
 
Thanks. No, I just tend to enjoy the stuff. Tried burst mode, got nothing of any real interest. Guess it's just going to take time. Still learning the camera and photography in general.
 
you got that right, never give up keep trying for sure the HS10 can do much better. Listen to what buckshot said. The framing is a important thing in action shots.
 
The problem with the first is exposure. One guy in the sun and the others in the shade. Spot focus and single point exposure (can't remember what this called on the HS10 but not area metering) on the guys in the shade if you preferred them to be better exposed.

The other two exhibit aproblem with focus. Spot focus will help if you didn't use this setting but the problem is that even in this mode the spot can be quite large and the camera back focusses make your subject OOF as you had. One option is to lock focus, shoot in best of 7 or burst and shoot. Set a higher aperture but this won't work when you lose light (ie: night games).

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Apologies if my lack of photographic knowledge is catching.
 
skimble said:
you got that right, never give up keep trying for sure the HS10 can do much better. Listen to what buckshot said. The framing is a important thing in action shots.
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Framing is extremely important. One thing also that I noticed in the posted action shots is that just about everyone is facing away / running away from the camera. Seeing the players' expressions is very important to making the shots worth viewing, and most parents who want to see their kid playing would like to see his face in the photo.

Get in as close as you can, take a zillion shots, some of them are going to be at least OK.
 
I actually really like this shot. It reflects the culture of the club and also the weather at the time. Thanks for you input though. I have a fair bit to work on
 
Thanks, the trouble is the game is so unpredictable, go one way and the play goes the other way for 10 minutes.

I have this one perfect shot in my head, can't get rid of the image. Going to take me an age to catch it though.
 
Beery Goodness said:
Thanks, the trouble is the game is so unpredictable, go one way and the play goes the other way for 10 minutes.

I have this one perfect shot in my head, can't get rid of the image. Going to take me an age to catch it though.
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No worry you will get there its hard work does not matter what camera you use. Of cause there are better cameras for that but its still hard work. ;-)
 
BG
Beery Goodness said:
Better? Sorry, should have replied to my fist post
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Way better. These action shots are what folks love to see. What is up with all that noise? I see you are on ISO 100 and I thought the HS10 could handle that well? You might try noise reduction on these. If you don't have a program to handle it try Neat Image

Thanks for posting these
Beery Goodness said:




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--
JB
I am not a photographer, I’m just a guy that takes pictures.
http://www.buckshot.BuckshotsPhotos.photoshare.co.nz

http://www.fujimugs.com/mugshots/show_member.php?country=&act=&hasmug=&challenge=&cat=&sortby=&sortdir=&thumb=&srch=&member=1341
 
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