Macro Photography

Do you have any shots taken with the 100 L?
Sorry I missed this. Not yet (for insects) as I picked up a MPE-65 before making the change to the L version. I can tell you the L is as just as a good lens. It will not be any worse, that is for certain.

--
When things go too smoothly it's life's way of throwing you off balance.
 
If you want something less expensive you can go with any prime and tubes.

Here is the 50mm F1.8 with extension tubes. I may buy a true macro if I find I'm realy intoit but this gets me started.

"



"

Small paper crane setting on a dime with 3 grains of salt.
7D + 50mm F1.8 + 65mm of tubes.
Expensive camera with cheap lens bought used $75 tubes used $50.
ISO 200 F18
 
Just ordered the 100L cant wait till it shows up will post some pics.
 
Just ordered the 100L cant wait till it shows up will post some pics.
 
I'm in the market myself. Even tho I have a zoom lens permanently converted into macro rig that does rather well I still want a dedicated macro. I have narrowed it down to the Sigma 150, or one of the two Canon 100 lenses.
 
You can buy Canon tubes or for a lot less Kenko Tubes. I bought Pro optics (cheapest). For sale any where on the internet. No glass just electrical contacts so you can stop the lens down. The Kenko and Canon are a more sturdy build but I am only hanging the 50 F1.8 on it so I am not concerned with the over hanging load on the Pro Optic plastic body.
 
you will love it mate, I have it too, great lens

i am fairly new to macro myself, here are some from the weekend, straight out of camera no post production what so ever hand held no flash with the 100mm L







 
Sorry, I did not read the whole thread so I don't know what others have said.

But I do have a 7D with the 100 mm macro (old one) and the 500D for my 70-200 F4 IS.

I find that I do not use the 500D/70-200 combo very much because frankly, it is a pain to use. I mostly shoot insects and spiders and with the combo you cannot stalk your prey with the camera at your eye because you don't have a sharp image until you are within 50 cm distance (the focal distance of the 500D). So you have to replace your view (move your head) well into the flight distance of most insects.
Most of the time, the movement will scare away your subject.

With a macro lens, you keep the camera at your eye using the focussing ring or autofocus to keep your prey focussed. When the image of your subject reaches the right size (or you dare not come any closer) you expose your shot.
This works much, much better!

I would allways go for the macro. The image stabilization of the newer lens seems a real bonus to me. Maybe just not enough to loose much money over in handing in my "old" 100 mm macro.
 
My current setup is a old manual 35-70 zoom film lens. I converted it by removing the DOF components so I can stop down directly by the F stop ring. I epoxied the base of a set of $10.00 extension tubes to it since it wasn't a Canon lens. I can get to 1:1 with no problem and the IQ is fairly good but I really want to get a lens that was designed for macro rather than adapting one or using extension rings.

Here's two recent samples.







 
With a macro lens, you keep the camera at your eye using the focussing ring or autofocus to keep your prey focussed. When the image of your subject reaches the right size (or you dare not come any closer) you expose your shot.

This works much, much better!
I hadn't thought about that aspect. Thanks for sharing.
 


First shot with new lens. never noticed my son has green rings.
 
What if there is would be the ideal distance from the lens for good macro photography? I have noticed that getting to close makes it hard to get enough light on the subject. Using new 100l macro with 68mm extension tubes plus 1.4 teleconvertor.
 

Keyboard shortcuts

Back
Top