Start big or small?

I agree with this. If money isn't a huge concern, don't waste your time on lower end stuff. Much of what I call lower end ("consumer") is fine for casual use, and I'm not saying you can't take good pictures with it, but if you really, really care about getting the ultimate quality out of your images, get a D700 and pro glass because it will not leave you wanting later on. Even just a D700 with the 50mm f/1.4G prime is an amazing combo (some would not consider the 50 1.4 "pro" but the optics are excellent, it's fast, and it's affordable). And I would also recommend you shoot RAW and look into something like Lightroom or Aperture. The D700 sensor has incredible headroom and you can pull a lot of detail out in post-processing, when needed.
 
Good advice pro and con. Sorry if I repeat. This thread is near and dear to me. I get where Rich is right now.

Don't underestimate that the 2.8 zooms are substantial in size and weight. IMHO, these zooms feel very unbalanced on a DX body. They just don't feel right to me. On a D700 just the opposite: well balanced.

2.8 is not really all that fast. To get indoor sports you are going to need to jack up your ISO to 6400 or so. That's not quite as pretty on a D7000 compared to a D700. It can be done but you are limiting yourself if you shoot in gyms.

You are going to want a fast prime. I'd start with a 50 1.4G but that is a bit long on a DX. One could argue for a 35 1.8. But if you shoot portraits you can easily use a 70-200 which is awesome at this but pretty darn heavy after a while. Also, not so great shooting portraits indoor in ambient light. A 50 1.4 would be a great focal length and give you the speed you will begin to crave.

My advice: if you go pro zooms get the D700. If you really want the lighter D7000, get the 16-85, 70-300. These two lenses are lighter and sharp and only lacking in speed. Either way I recommend a 50 1.4G. You will use it a bunch. Sure, you may rather have a 85, 35, 24 1.4G but those are all 3-4 times more expensive. 50 just works. It's normal.

Save some dough for a better strap. If you have a heavy set up the Nikon strap is going to make things uncomfortable in a hurry. l like the Black Rapid. You'll want a very good tripod, a good camera bag or two (one for traveling light and one for everything), extra cards, software (PS, LR or Aperture). If you don't take advantage of post processing you are really missing out on 50% of the photography equation. While you're at it make sure you have a fast PC with a good monitor. A flash is a great thing to own. There is a learning curve but all lenses perform better when they gather more light. A great flash is far cheaper than a 1.4G prime, and you can use any focal length, not just the one with a few mm of DOF. The list just keeps giving and giving....
 
Hi, I don't have any of those 'pro' lenses (for lack of a better term,) but do have some lenses that fit my needs very nicely. I assume people on this forum are going to quickly say 'go pro and you'll save the money in the long run' and that's absolutely true- the pro lenses are really really good! No denying! However, these lenses were made for full frame cameras, and although they work on DX, you would be negating one of the biggest advantages of the DX sensor- which is the fact that lenses and bodies can be made smaller for a DX sensor. I don't totally understand why someone would couple a massive lens with a smaller camera because then they lose that advantage that they originally wanted. Now, there are some excellent fast zooms made for DX by third party companies, and although I'm not saying that they are better than the FX counterparts (perish the thought, I would be flayed alive on this forum) I'm not saying that they are any worse! I myself have the Tamron 17-50 f2.8 and the Sigma 50-150 f2.8. Although the Tamron has some characteristics that one needs to adapt to, it's still very very good, and the 50-150 is just an absolute gem! Wonderful to use and fantastic results.

The other thing to think about is the 1.5x crop on an aps-c sensor. This means that if you shell out big bucks for the 70-200 you are in fact getting the use of (the equivilent of) 105-300mm on your camera. The 70-200 lens is SO POPULAR on full frame because that zoom range is so useful, but on DX it changes somewhat. Hence, the 50-150 fills roughly the same range as that 70-200. Furthermore, the 17-50 on DX is roughly 25-75 on DX (in 35mm equiv) and therefore fills that popular 24-70 range of the bigger, heavier model.

Just something to think about- much cheaper, smaller models with roughly the same characteristics and (if you get yourself a good one) comparable IQ. Check out the specs on a good website like photozone.de.
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Rich,

Your thoughtfulness shines through, here, as others have said--you're sure to make good choices.

That said, let's question one key assumption: why have you decided to stick with zooms?

If cost is no object, then Nikon's new line of f/1.4 "G" primes--the 24G, 35G, 50G, and 85G are capable of considerably more versatile, interesting photography than are the f/2.8 pro zooms.

In the last year, many working professionals seem to have ditched the 14-24 and the 24-70, particularly, in favor of the 24 f/1.4 or 35 f/1.4 for wide coverage and the 50 f/1.4 (or, in an interesting trend, the 50 f/1.2 AIS) for normal.

Why? A few reasons:

(1) As many have already pointed out, f/2.8 really isn't all that fast. While it's true that f/2.8 combined with the impressive high ISO capabilities of the D7000 and the FX bodies means you can shoot in pretty much any available light, f/2.8 really isn't capable, on the wider end of the focal range, of producing those gorgeously shallow, cinematic shots--bokeh, dimension, and impressive subject isolation at, say, 24mm. That's why the 24 f/1.4, particularly, is such a revelation--also a reason why many working pros (I'm thinking, particularly, of Ryan Brenizer, Sean Molin, others) also carry Nikon's manual focus 50 f/1.2 AIS. That wide aperture brings such rich, cinematic character!

(2) The much smaller, much lighter f/1.4 primes balance magnificently on smaller DX bodies. They're also highly portable--unlike the 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8, they'll actually fit, with hoods deployed, in a reasonably-sized bag you won't be embarrassed to bring to family get-togethers, etc. The 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8, particularly, will absolutely overwhelm the small D7000 body--you'll need the 70-200's VR, because you'll have a hell of a time holding that rig steadily. If the zooms really are your thing, plan on getting the MB-D11 Grip as well to give the D7000 body a fighting chance at some balance.

(3) Don't underestimate the absolute wildness of the 14-24 f/2.8 zoom design until you've used and seen one in person. That enormous front element can't be covered with a proper lens cap, and you can't use any filters--so no UV/Protection, NDs, warming, etc. For hand-held landscape work, alone, think long and hard about not being able to use a screw-on ND or having to go into salty / dusty environments without a UV/Protection filter.

(4) Don't underestimate the continued power of Occam's Razor, even in the era of nano-crystal coatings and ED glass: not even the magnificent 70-200 VRII can pull the same lw/height sharpness as the $125 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor. Add glass, put it in motion, and sharpness goes down--the simplest solutions are most often the best. The new f/1.4 "G" Nikkors are RAZOR sharp, with impressive figures even wide open!

Long and short: the f/2.8 zooms are magnificent lenses, but they trade focal range versatility for massive weight, wild design, and some loss of aperture versatility--something you'll feel most acutely with the 14-24.

My recommendation? If you're "starting big," then get on the bleeding edge with the kit many forward-thinking pros have begun to use:
  • 24 f/1.4 G
  • 50 f/1.2 AIS
  • 70-200 f/2.8 VRII (for those occasions you know you'll need a range)
  • 85 f/1.4 G (for those occasions you know you'll prefer aperture versatility)
Visit Ryan Brenizer's wonderful blog ( http://www.ryanbrenizer.com/blog/ ) to see this lens kit in action. I think you'll conclude that the 14-24 and the 24-70, particularly, don't stack up.

Cheers!

M.
 
First of all you are buying an excellent camera! Congrats.

Second, I'd go with the 16-85, and 70-300, two excellent lens. Yes they are slower than the fast zooms but you can very easily add a 35 1.8 to do the low light stuff you want to do. Or you can use flash....

I love my pro glass but you are talking about a lot of money for the lens you've described not to know if you really are going to enjoy your hobby. Also, pro glass doesn't mean pro pictures.

Take time to develop your skill level with the 70-300, 16-85 and 35 and you may find out that you are getting the results you want without having to spend the money. Shoot um for a year, then decide... just makes more sense to me :-)

(some of my favorite images are with the 18-200)

At any rate.... do have fun!

Best,

Don
 
Just start with a couple of (fast, hi-Q AND light) prime lenses, as I recommend here:
http://www.pbase.com/marcoraugei/whatlens

Also, get and READ some good books about photography (not DIGITAL photography! Most of the real photo skills and techniques - vs. gimmicks - have not changed since the 'age' of film).

You'll soon discover that 'less is more' - THEN, after some time (maybe a few YEARS), when you REALLY know what you are missing... you'll be ready to add some more lenses and kit.

Marco
 
Rich,

Your thoughtfulness shines through, here, as others have said--you're sure to make good choices.

That said, let's question one key assumption: why have you decided to stick with zooms?

If cost is no object, then Nikon's new line of f/1.4 "G" primes--the 24G, 35G, 50G, and 85G are capable of considerably more versatile, interesting photography than are the f/2.8 pro zooms.

In the last year, many working professionals seem to have ditched the 14-24 and the 24-70, particularly, in favor of the 24 f/1.4 or 35 f/1.4 for wide coverage and the 50 f/1.4 (or, in an interesting trend, the 50 f/1.2 AIS) for normal.

Why? A few reasons:

(1) As many have already pointed out, f/2.8 really isn't all that fast. While it's true that f/2.8 combined with the impressive high ISO capabilities of the D7000 and the FX bodies means you can shoot in pretty much any available light, f/2.8 really isn't capable, on the wider end of the focal range, of producing those gorgeously shallow, cinematic shots--bokeh, dimension, and impressive subject isolation at, say, 24mm. That's why the 24 f/1.4, particularly, is such a revelation--also a reason why many working pros (I'm thinking, particularly, of Ryan Brenizer, Sean Molin, others) also carry Nikon's manual focus 50 f/1.2 AIS. That wide aperture brings such rich, cinematic character!

(2) The much smaller, much lighter f/1.4 primes balance magnificently on smaller DX bodies. They're also highly portable--unlike the 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8, they'll actually fit, with hoods deployed, in a reasonably-sized bag you won't be embarrassed to bring to family get-togethers, etc. The 24-70 f/2.8 and 70-200 f/2.8, particularly, will absolutely overwhelm the small D7000 body--you'll need the 70-200's VR, because you'll have a hell of a time holding that rig steadily. If the zooms really are your thing, plan on getting the MB-D11 Grip as well to give the D7000 body a fighting chance at some balance.

(3) Don't underestimate the absolute wildness of the 14-24 f/2.8 zoom design until you've used and seen one in person. That enormous front element can't be covered with a proper lens cap, and you can't use any filters--so no UV/Protection, NDs, warming, etc. For hand-held landscape work, alone, think long and hard about not being able to use a screw-on ND or having to go into salty / dusty environments without a UV/Protection filter.

(4) Don't underestimate the continued power of Occam's Razor, even in the era of nano-crystal coatings and ED glass: not even the magnificent 70-200 VRII can pull the same lw/height sharpness as the $125 50mm f/1.8 Nikkor. Add glass, put it in motion, and sharpness goes down--the simplest solutions are most often the best. The new f/1.4 "G" Nikkors are RAZOR sharp, with impressive figures even wide open!

Long and short: the f/2.8 zooms are magnificent lenses, but they trade focal range versatility for massive weight, wild design, and some loss of aperture versatility--something you'll feel most acutely with the 14-24.

My recommendation? If you're "starting big," then get on the bleeding edge with the kit many forward-thinking pros have begun to use:
  • 24 f/1.4 G
  • 50 f/1.2 AIS
  • 70-200 f/2.8 VRII (for those occasions you know you'll need a range)
  • 85 f/1.4 G (for those occasions you know you'll prefer aperture versatility)
Visit Ryan Brenizer's wonderful blog ( http://www.ryanbrenizer.com/blog/ ) to see this lens kit in action. I think you'll conclude that the 14-24 and the 24-70, particularly, don't stack up.

Cheers!

M.
Very well said.

IMHO - someone starting out should purchase a good camera (in his or her price range) and a good basic lens that fits that camera well. As that person masters the camera and the lens, he will discover things that he cannot do well with his current setup. When those events occurs, one can easily and quickly purchase something to fill any gaps that are discovered.

Gaps I discovered:

1) When my baby was born, I discovered that she hated flash photography and would close her eyes after the first shot. Solution: 50mm F/1.8 allowed me to shoot away in the available light. While true pros won't like them, my pictures are priceless to me and the lens was more than worth the cost.

2) Although I keep the 50m F/1.8 on the camera 90% on my camera most of the time, I bought an 18-200mm DX lens for when I travel with my family. Why? I hated having to carry multiple lenses. Mounted to my D60, this lens should be a very light solution at places like Disney, NYC, or the beach.

3) I "found" some money that wasn't budgeted for real needs. I used it to purchase an almost new 70-200mm f/2.8 VR (aka the "Brick"). Having learned from watching my nephew grow up, school functions rarely allow flash photography. In addition, I want to be able to shoot sports indoors and think this lens will do the trick. I don't plan on carrying around if I don't have to.

4) At some point, I plan on adding a prime in the 1.4/1.8 ranges in the 100mm focal lenght for indoor use.

Bottom Line: Pro lenses are heavy beasts. If I were the OP and had the money for the pro lenses, I would still start with:
1) D7000
2) 50mm 1.4 or the reasonably fast little DX zoom (16-55mm?)

3) a 70-300mm DX zoom. If you don't like it, you can get some faster glass. Plus, you can keep it around for outdoors shots when you don't need the Brick.

Buying a giant pro lens and finding how it is PITA to carry would be sad.
 
I agree but the OP wouldn't ask the question if they knew what they needed. I think the amount of money you waste is really not much in the grand scheme of things. Buy a 16-85 new $625, sell it used $550 = net loss $75. It's worth $75 to find out if the consumer lens will work or not. Many of the better consumer lenses hold their value too. Test the water with the 24-70 and decide you would like to sell it and get the 17-55, you will almost certainly be out more than $75.
yes, this is a good point. it might also be in your benefit to visit shops and try things out -- or borrow lenses from friends/the internet.
 
You are proposing the D7000 which is a consumer grade DX camera...coupled with that, you are proposing the 14-24 which is a pro grade FX lens. Problem.
i don't see a problem here.
Of course you don't ....because you didn't appear to read my next sentence.

I go on to state: "While the 14-24 will take fine pictures on the camera you will probably find that 14mm just isn't a super wide on DX."
...and my next paragraph:
now, the focal ranges might not be quite what he wants on DX. but it might be fine. who knows. strictly personal preference. i prefer my 17-55 on DX.
no, 14mm isn't going to as crazy wide on DX. but it's still going to quite wide, and still a very quality lens. i just don't necessarily agree that getting pro-FX lenses, but starting on a DX body, is a bad thing.
 
Thanks all – you’ve given me a lot to think about.

I am now thinking I should take the medium route – pair the 18-105 with the 70-200, and then add in a fast prime or two as soon as I figure out which focal lengths works best for me. This way, I have a decent lightweight lens for normal/daylight shots, and can get the low-light, long range, and high IQ shots when I want to. I thought about waiting to get the 70-200, but I don’t think the 18-105 will have the reach I’ll need. I’ll probably rent the pair for a weekend to confirm my plans before I buy them.

To answer some of the comments, I assumed that the pro lenses would have a steeper learning curve because the wider range in aperture would make it harder to get the right balance of focus and bokeh. But I guess this is true with either set of lenses. Also, what I didn’t consider was the limitations of the consumer lenses and what I’d need to do to get around them. So yes, I guess my logic was faulty.

Also, I’ve definitely considered the D700, and once my skills improve to the level where I think I’ll need FF, I’ll probably upgrade to one of its successors. I don’t necessarily see bodies as a long term commitment like I do lenses. For that reason, I’ll probably stick with FX lenses when the upgrade itch needs to be scratched.

Regarding the types of photography I’ll be doing, while I’ll be taking the standard fare family photos, I am really interested in artistic expression through photography. I’ve perused a ton of stunning photos on flickr and pbase, and it amazes me what is possible with the right set of skills and a good eye.

Since I live near NYC, I’ll probably start off with hitting museums, art galleries, and Central Park. I’ll also be taking a bunch of people, skyline and architectural photos. Also, I like nature photography, whether it’s a squirrel in an interesting pose, a tree with its branches covered with ice, or a panorama of the Grand Canyon. And yes, maybe even a few bifs ;-)

As far as reading and learning about photography, I’ve already read quite a bit about the topic and have watched all sixty of Ted Forbes’ Art of Photography video podcasts (for those who haven’t checked them out, they are absolutely fantastic!). I do know I’ve got a long way to go, and reading/watching videos is no substitute for practice.

If anyone has any input on my plan, I’d love to hear it.

I really do appreciate all the help, and I apologize for the long posts. If you haven’t noticed, I do tend to ramble….
 
Hey, Rich,

You've got a wonderful plan for artistic pursuits, a large part of which illustrates an immediate need for a fast prime:
Since I live near NYC, I’ll probably start off with hitting museums, art galleries, and Central Park. I’ll also be taking a bunch of people, skyline and architectural photos.

If anyone has any input on my plan, I’d love to hear it.
Here goes: let's say you plan to photograph anything at, say, MOMA or the Met.

(a) They'll treat you like a terrorist if you walk in with a lens as large as the 70-200. No joke. You won't get two steps into either building, and should they even entertain you, they'll insist you have "professional" photographic credentials.

(b) Museum and art gallery light is, by necessity, very soft and diffuse. With the 18-105, you'll be shooting at ISO 3200 on the wide end to get acceptable shutter speeds, even with VR; ISO 6400 will be your zone above 35mm. Same with the 70-200, for 70mm shots. Getting anything sharp at 200mm in most galleries will be out of the question. Now, the D7000 has impressive high ISO capabilities, but you won't be happy with straggled ISO 6400 and 12800 stuff.

If ever there was a place for a simple, fast 35mm or 50mm prime shot wide open, the art gallery / museum is it. Consider: if you're shooting a 50mm at f/1.4, you're shooting four stops faster than the 18-105's f/5.6 aperture. (Maybe the 18-105 can make f/5 at 50mm, but even so, the illustration stands). That means, at the same shutter speed, that you'd be shooting ISO 400 instead of ISO 6400. I probably don't need to tell you about how incredibly better image quality will be at ISO 400 over ISO 6400.

Wait, what about VR! Weren't the 18-105's and the 70-200's VR systems built for exactly these circumstances? To provide three or four stops' worth of extra stability in low light?

Short answer: No. Use VR with these expectations and prepare yourself for disappointment. In the first, VR will help you only if your subject is perfectly stationary (or, in the 70-200's case, panning on a perfectly level axis), so you won't get any interesting people shots (or shots of stationery subjects from which you were in motion). In the second, VR is designed only to increase your sharpness probability in adverse circumstances, not to guarantee it. It'll improve your "keeper" rate among outrageous shots you probably shouldn't have gotten--but it won't substitute for the higher shutter speeds a true wide aperture would allow.

Cheers!

M.
 
I still think you need to go to a camera shop and feel what a 70-200 feels like on a D7000. It's going to be very front heavy. I shot a D80 for years. I just don't think a smaller DX body is a great match for these big zooms. I've been to NYC many times and the 70-200 isn't one I'd want to carry around much. Maybe here or there.

I'm thinking in NYC I'd want something like a 16-35 and a 50 (FX), so maybe a 10-24 and a 35 for DX. Or alternatively the 16-85, though it would be nice to get something wider, maybe a Tokina 11-16. Then a 70-300 could come in handy because of it's size and weight carrying around town. If you have a fast prime it doesn't matter so much if you have a medium fast zoom like the 2.8's.

Seriously, you probably won't go this way, but a 18-200 and a 351.8 or 50 1.4 would be a great start and without investing too much. Then you figure out what you really want to do after a year or two without investing in gear you really might not use much. I thought I had to have the 2.8 trinity and I only own the 70-200 and I seriously doubt I will ever own a mid range and I'm not in a hurry on the 14-24. The 70-200 is for my kid's sports and occasionally used as a portrait lens (for which is awesome but heavy unless you use a tripod).

It's fun to think about your journey. I've been on it...just a few steps ahead of where you are now.

Here's how I went to FX:

D700 and 70-200 II. Already owned 50 1.4
Realized immediately I needed something wider. 16-35 next.

Realized I loved the 16-35 but not happy about F4, even with VR. Not enough separation of subject.

Next step a 24 1.4G. Sure it overlaps but not really, it's 3 critical stops faster than the 16-35. It is an amazing lens!
Next realized I wanted mid tele portrait. 85 1.4.

Ranking them:

1a: 24 1.4G (The new primes are expensive and it's easy to see why. Love, love, love them.)
1b: 85 1.4G (only because I don't use it as much as the 24)
2a: 70-200 II (It's super sharp, great bokeh, super fast focus, heavy!)

2b: 50 1.4G (It's equally as sharp as the 70-200 and it's tiny. You could have this on your camera all day forever as an only lens and really be done. I just love shooting with this lens. It is a small step backwards from the new primes but not $1,500 step backward. Very, very good.)

3: 16-35 Very sharp and great tones and contrast. Spectacular for landscapes and getting that UW perspective. However, I shoot a lot of people and it just doesn't separate them out well enough for my liking.
 
I haven't read ANY of this thread.

But I would recommend starting out small. That way, as you learn more about photography, you will be smarter and better at picking out future lenses that you would like or would be most useful for you.

For example, I was planning to buy a telephoto lens, and was almost convinced that VR would be more useful than a large aperture. Then, I photographed a concert with my 18-105 VR (my only lens at that time). I was stuck at f/5.6, and practically everything came out blurry. So, I learned that I need a large aperture tele lens much more than a VR tele. I changed my mind on getting the 70-300 VR and got an 80-200 f/2.8 instead. It is now my favorite lens.

I can promise that if you bought the 14-24, 24-70, and 70-200 right off the bat you would not have any idea what to do with them.
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bif means?
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Thankyou kind Sir.

FYI, not sure where your from, in the southern United States, Sir is used as a polite term. I was once in school in an international school and got in a little trouble, and addressed the Irish pricipal as "Sir". He got very heated and was gong to hit me, but the PE teacher stepped in and said it was a term of politeness where I came from..... Ok so its off topic!
 
You raise some great points. I've heard of photographers getting stopped in some high risk public places, but didn't think it would be a problem in museums. Also, the

It looks like I'll need to purchase those fast primes sooner rather than later. I was thiinking of getting the 35 f/1.4 and/or 50 f/1.4 lenses, but it looks like I'll eventually end up with the 24 f/1.4 and 85 f/1.4 also.

Thanks again for the help.
 
I've actually been planning to take a trip to Adorama and rent a D7000 and 70-200 to check out the feel and weight of the pair. I'm now thinking that I should rent a few primes also.

I'm beginning to think I'll be using the fast primes more than I thought. I've always liked the convenience of zooms, but the primes definitely have their advantages.
 
I own a D7000. It's a great camera. But, like all DSLR's, it weighs you down markedly because it is big, heavy, and so personally I end up NOT taking it on many occasions where I end up using either my iPhone 4, or a pocketable superzoom with manual controls.

But OK, you've decided you're ready to become a DSLR-carrying slave.

I would certainly NOT start with a lot of lenses and all - though a salesperson would probably love for you to do so ;-) Neither would I buy a camera bag etc before I'd have developed a feel for how I like to shoot.

Personally for example, I hate looking like a photographer, and I laugh when I see these people carrying tons of gear in special pockets, and then rarely take it out, and almos never having to show interesting shots. I put my D7000 in a backpack, and when I take it out I never use the straps but use a simple wrist-strap (I use one from the Wii wireless controllers, it's way cheaper than the "for camera" ones and easier to adjust).

Here's what you could do:
  • start with only a 35mm f1.8. But of course it does limit creativity, especially the lack of wide-angle. But it has quite decent bokeh (though the bokeh transitions ar a tad brutal for my taste)
  • start w just the 16-85mm you mention. But you'll suffer in lower light and of course shallow DOF is tough to achieve
  • start w the 18-200mm. It's IQ is comparable to that of the 16-85mm but you get a lot more compositional flexibility (from near-macro, to wide-angle, to portraits etc) so you can leave it on at all times. It's AF is really quite fast. Though it also lacks the ability to do shallow DOF (and its bokeh is not that good anyway, too nervous)
So yeah, I'd start w the 18-200mm, and see what I get. If you've got enough cash from the start you can add the 35mm f1.8, it's a fine lens except for it's AF speed which honestly is unimpressive.

If you want to do a lot of portraits, and have lots of extra cash, then buy the 85mm f1.4 you won't regret it it has superb smooth bokeh and smooth bokeh transitions. But it's expensive.

Samples from 35mm f1.8:
tree bark:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5287319497/

portrait:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5210811971/

portrait:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5211411876/

macro-like work:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5207263547/

samples from 18-200 f3.5-5.6:
portrait of sculpture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5404628501/

macro-like work:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5391532788/

landscape w nice detail:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5339720936/

broad landscape:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5336332840/

samples from 85mm f1.4:

portraits:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5261790055/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/antoinebach/5262393112/
 

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