How to capture stars shot?

Ignorant question, but couldn't you get some pretty interesting effects due to the motion of the stars?
I'm thinking of pictures like this:
Pictures of the motion of the stars around the north or south poles look terrific. But if you point your camera to any other part of the sky with an exposure long enough that the stars move then they just look like lines and IMHO are pretty much worthless.
 
I own a E-PL2 and want to capture stars. Some said because of long exposure, noises will be all over dark sky. Any special filter to put on the lens, let say ND? Any guru outthere advice will be much appreciated.
You don't want any filters. Keep the camera on a tripod and use a remote to trigger the shutter. Shutter speed above 15 seconds will start showing the movement of the stars, so if you want them point-like keep it under 10-15 sec. The noise reduction will take a dark frame shot with the same shutter speed, and it works very well. If you want things like Milky Way you'll probably need to stack several images of about 30 sec each. Milky Way also have regions that are rich in features, and regions that are boring. Read up on what to photograph, when and in what direction. Light pollution is the biggest problem. Fortunately right now at least the moon is gone.

Wide angle is more interesting because it can include both land features and a large part of the sky. Remember, the constellations are very big, We only see about 6 zodiac ones on any given night.

Here's Orion over a cabin in Yosemite: ISO 800, 15 sec, f/3.5, 14mm. The blue light in the sky and the light on the outside wall is from the full moon.



Milky Way over Isla Spiritu Santo: ISO 1600, 30sec, f/3.5, 14mm.



Vlad
Hi

Love your image of the house and stars but can I ask how if you stack several images with the house in it, how do you get the relative positions of stars to the house to remain static? I understand the concept if you just shoot sky but you have ground objects, wouldn't they blur (maybe I'm missing something)
 
Love your image of the house and stars but can I ask how if you stack several images with the house in it, how do you get the relative positions of stars to the house to remain static? I understand the concept if you just shoot sky but you have ground objects, wouldn't they blur (maybe I'm missing something)
Thank you for your compliment! The image with the house is not stacked, it's a single exposure. This was just an illustration that a single 10-15 sec exposure with ISO 800 will produce a nice result even with the kit lens, and if you use a faster lens it will be even better.

If there are ground objects in a stack then you can delete them form all images but one. There will be segments close to horizon that would require some cloning, or the stars look more faint. It could work ok if the sky does not have many features close to horizon. For example the picture below could be processed like that. Unfortunately, my battery died, so that was the only shot :-(

Vlad

Panasonic 14-45 kit lens at 18mm, ISO 800, 30sec, f/4.0

 
Look at the drive bolt again. The article tells you to bend it in a circular shape, with a radius equal to the distance between it and the hinges. That pretty much eliminates the problem (linear motion) with the single arm design.
For the mount to track accurately, it needs a curved drive bolt.
That's all the article says about it. No explanation why. It's a bit terse, I agree. :)

--
Florin Andrei
http://florin.myip.org/
 
That's right, the bolt is curved, which is not easy to achieve, and you need to need to have a fixed bolt-mobile nut design.

With a straight bolt, you have the possibility to use a fixed nut, and a mobile bolt, that you can action manually at a round per minute.

I have built such a platform, 15 years back, and took an film shot of the pleiades star cluster.
But you are correct, with such a design (curved bolt) accuracy is better.
J-P
 
I own a E-PL2 and want to capture stars. Some said because of long exposure, noises will be all over dark sky. Any special filter to put on the lens, let say ND? Any guru outthere advice will be much appreciated.
I just got this shot, processed with the tip from Iskender and Sean Nelson. Orion belt with the dagger. There's even some glow from the Orion nebula. Taken in the middle of San Francisco! Amazing! Now I want the tracking mount and the 300mm lens :-)

Vlad

G1, Canon FD 100mm f/2.0 lens at 2.8, 10 sec, ISO 800.



 
If I need bit longer exposure time or longer lens then I'm using cheap Celestron SLT mount. It's quite small compared to other tracking mounts, but you need the wedge to prevent frame rotation.
Here is simple shot of M42 in Orion done with SLT, G1 and Sonnar 300/4



--
Regards
Grzegorz Rakoczy
 
The curve in the bolt has no effect on the motion of the wood - this is dertemined by the hinge - not the bolt!

The curve in the bolt stops missalignment as the hinge opens - as a straight bolt would start to move away from the hinge as it opened... obviously with out a pivot at the bolt & nut or a curve in the bolt to compensate for this motion the mechanisum would jam as the stress gest higher on the bolt shaft.
Look at the drive bolt again. The article tells you to bend it in a circular shape, with a radius equal to the distance between it and the hinges. That pretty much eliminates the problem (linear motion) with the single arm design.
For the mount to track accurately, it needs a curved drive bolt.
That's all the article says about it. No explanation why. It's a bit terse, I agree. :)

--
Florin Andrei
http://florin.myip.org/
 
That's correct, I used a internally threaded cylinder instead of a small nut, which allowed me to adapt a pivot to its median axis. And to be honest, it's not completely easy DIY either.
I used a round blind nut at the end pushing the wooden board.

But even with such a crude, hand-driven setup, I was able to make acceptable (to my taste) pictures.

A far more complex option is a "Poncet platform", on which a regular tripod could be used.

J-P
 
Love your image of the house and stars but can I ask how if you stack several images with the house in it, how do you get the relative positions of stars to the house to remain static? I understand the concept if you just shoot sky but you have ground objects, wouldn't they blur (maybe I'm missing something)
Thank you for your compliment! The image with the house is not stacked, it's a single exposure. This was just an illustration that a single 10-15 sec exposure with ISO 800 will produce a nice result even with the kit lens, and if you use a faster lens it will be even better.

If there are ground objects in a stack then you can delete them form all images but one. There will be segments close to horizon that would require some cloning, or the stars look more faint. It could work ok if the sky does not have many features close to horizon. For example the picture below could be processed like that. Unfortunately, my battery died, so that was the only shot :-(

Vlad

Panasonic 14-45 kit lens at 18mm, ISO 800, 30sec, f/4.0
Thanks Vlad

Makes sense, I have done some stacked images from a telescope and similar fixed exposure images to yours so follow what you are saying

regards
Steve
 
The curve in the bolt has no effect on the motion of the wood - this is dertemined by the hinge - not the bolt!
it seems that the curve would effect the angular speed of the platform. The curved bolt would provide a constant angular speed, whereas a straight bolt would give angular speed that's different near the end and start point from that near the middle of the arc. In comparison with the straight bolt, in case of the curved bolt the nut travels a longer distance between exactly same end points in the same amount of time. Is it not so?

Vlad
 
it seems that the curve would effect the angular speed of the platform. The curved bolt would provide a constant angular speed, whereas a straight bolt would give angular speed that's different near the end and start point from that near the middle of the arc. In comparison with the straight bolt, in case of the curved bolt the nut travels a longer distance between exactly same end points in the same amount of time. Is it not so?
Correct.

--
Florin Andrei
http://florin.myip.org/
 
Hi All,

It's an old thread, but I'd just like to say thanks to grzybu and Iskender for the tips on astro photography. I bought an E-PL2 with 14-42 II lens second hand on eBay last week and so far I'm loving it.

Also thanks to Sean Nelson for the great Photoshop tip, it works a treat.

Got a question for E-PL2 users with the stock 14-42 II lens:

Is there a reliable way to set focus for infinity? If you set to MF and turn the fly-by-wire focus anti-closkwise all the way (when looking from the back of the camera), the focus passes through infinity onto somewhere else (infinty-1 perhaps).

I've managed to set focus OK on the moon, but it's not out all the time and it's a bit hit and miss. The lens is supposed to reset to infinity, but it's always slightly off. I would appreciate any tips you could give, thanks.
 
I've managed to set focus OK on the moon, but it's not out all the time and it's a bit hit and miss. The lens is supposed to reset to infinity, but it's always slightly off. I would appreciate any tips you could give, thanks.
What about AFing on a very far away object during daytime, then switching to MF and turning the camera off with the Lens Reset option OFF? Then it should keep the focus to infinity.

Else, you can assign AF to the red button (or Fn), put in AEL-AFL Mode 3 and AF settings to AF-S. Lens Reset OFF. With that, you can AF on, say, mountains, then switch off and it'll keep focus until you press the red button again. At least in theory.
 
That's genius, basically did what you said.

Set the camera to MF, Reset Lens to Off, assigned the red button to AEL-AFL, put MF in AEL-AFL to Mode 3.

I can press the red button to AF on the moon or any other object available, can use the manual focus to fine tune if necessary. When the shutter release is pressed or the camera is swithed off/on the focus is left alone.

That's probably as close as I'll get to perfect, thanks for the help.
 
That's genius, basically did what you said.
Genius? That's definitely too much, thanks!
Set the camera to MF, Reset Lens to Off, assigned the red button to AEL-AFL, put MF in AEL-AFL to Mode 3.

I can press the red button to AF on the moon or any other object available, can use the manual focus to fine tune if necessary. When the shutter release is pressed or the camera is swithed off/on the focus is left alone.

That's probably as close as I'll get to perfect, thanks for the help.
You're very welcome, glad you found it useful.
 

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