What settings should I use for Boudoir?

christiana827

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So I'm doing a practice boudoir shoot next weekend and need some advice on what settings I should use on my Nikon D5000.

The shoot will take place indoors using natural light and some ambient light. Can I get away with shooting in Aperture priority mode? Or if I need to use manual mode- what should my ISO settings be? (I'm a bit confused about ISO). Mainly I'm still confused about WHEN to adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture to work with eachother. I understand what each mean and do, but its still not second nature as to when to adjust them for different situations.
 
There isn't a lot of point of giving a detailed answer to your question until you understand the basics of exposure.

Try googling "exposure tutorial". Here is onee xample:

http://www.aguntherphotography.com/tutorials/the-correct-exposure-part-1-shutter-aperture-iso.html

Another possibility would be to buy a basic book on photography, e.g. "DSLRs for Dummies" which is surprisingly good.
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Chris R
Agreed with above. Before the shoot try to understand one word and how it relates to exposure!

Triangle
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Targa86
 
So I'm doing a practice boudoir shoot next weekend and need some advice on what settings I should use on my Nikon D5000.

The shoot will take place indoors using natural light and some ambient light. Can I get away with shooting in Aperture priority mode? Or if I need to use manual mode- what should my ISO settings be? (I'm a bit confused about ISO). Mainly I'm still confused about WHEN to adjust ISO, shutter speed, and aperture to work with eachother. I understand what each mean and do, but its still not second nature as to when to adjust them for different situations.
I do not mean to throw cold water on your project, but you must remember that photography is all about LIGHT. There is no way anyone can give you recommendations for "settings" without having accurate knowledge about the light level on your scene. Furthermore, your post reveals that you lack an understanding of photographic basics. You are floundering around and will continue to do so until you get the necessary knowledge. I teach a course in basic optics and fundamentals of photography five evenings a week and I well know the value of that course. Can you learn the basics by yourself? Possibly. But you are better off to have a firm program to follow. Nikon has a course worth considering:

http://www.nikonusa.com/Learn-And-Explore/Photography-Techniques/Fundamentals-of-Photography.page

I know that this will not help you to handle your shoot in a weeks time, but if you are going to advance your photographic knowledge and abilities, you need to get a good grounding in basic optics and the fundamentals of the photographic medium. I am sorry I cannot be more helpful. Good luck.

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Judy

 
Judy is spot on here. Unless you understand the basics of exposure, you are at a huge disadvantage. Boudoir photography is all about controlling the light you have available, whether it is natural light or artificial (ie flash/strobe). Control of the lighting is the key to success in any type or portraiture. Granted you also need to know how you final image is going to react to the changes in both the lighting and the parameters you control, such as wardrobe, make-up, depth of field and compositional elements. Sounds as if you need to get some grounding in the basics of exposure.
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John Glover
WSSA #141PX
 
So that would mean I need use a slow shutter speed to allow more light in, but that means I need to use a tripod the whole time. Can I up the ISO so that my shutter speed is a bit faster? I dont want to be taking too much time making sure my camera and the subject is perfectly still in order to avoid making a blurry picture. At the same time I don't want the images to be too grainy. Is 250 ISO too high? I can always use a program to get rid of noise.
 
Victor's suggestion was to use an external flash that you can bounce.

You need to understand how flash photography works, then you will understand why your questions are not sensible.

As everybody else has said on this thread, you need to learn the basics of photography before you do anything else .
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Chris R
 
I do not want to appear to be too negative but considering your questions and the limited time you have left before your shoot, your chances of getting anything good are slim to none. Your best bet would be to do bounce flash, enjoy yourself, and accept whatever results you get.

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Don
 
Everyone is well advised to avoid reading this so-called "tutotial." The author fails to understand that photography is all about LIGHT. Without light there is no exposure possible. Without having some measure of the light available, there is no way to select ISO, aperture or shutter speed. With plenty of light, there is a wide range of options and the choices are relatively easy. As the light level diminishes, the range of options narrows and the choices are made more difficult. Light is the essential ingredient in calculating exposure.

There is a glaring error in the paragraph labeled "Aperture." The author writes "The aperture is simply a hole in your lens that opens (to let the light hit your cameras sensor) then closes again when the image is exposed correctly." Really? That statement sounds like a loose description of a shutter, not the operation of an iris diaphragm.

Perhaps I am too concerned about the inaccuracies and misinformation put forth in various "tutotials" and forums, as well as by some famous "gurus" but, as a teacher, I am too often confronted with new photography students who have been victims of some of the garbage put forth on the Internet.

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Judy

 
You first need to decide what kind of picture you want to capture then you can adjust settings to deliver it.

Soft, subtle lighting and a moody look require one type of settings. But if you want to capture everything in more detail you need different settings.

Generally, to achieve something natural looking use a wider aperture, low ISO and not too much saturation - shoot set to natural or standard color settings.
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John
 
I think it's great the way you gave the OP some simple steps to work with and photos showing their effectiveness, rather than just telling them to learn exposure and leaving it at that. I think some respondants forgot that this is the beginners forum.

Great response! Great shots!
 
If it were me, I'd take some photos at the location before the model arrives, and use ideally a laptop tethered to your camera to get your metering exactly how you want it. Take something with some colors (some mixed fruit or flowers if you don't have anthing better) and get a few combinations of exposure settings that work well. Write them down.

If metering is new for you, try setting your camera to aperture or shutter priority and take photos of the same thing from the same place while adjusting aperture values in A mode and shutter speeds in S mode. Notice how the other and possibly ISO (if it's set to auto) change to keep your exposure basically constant.

A flash will add light to your image (which allows lower ISO settings and more flexibility with shutter speed and apature), but flash light can be pretty harsh (which whites out skin tones and emphasises skin flaws), so angling it to bounce off the ceiling (or running an external flash through a softbox or bouncing it off an umbrella will make it softer. Better would be using several light sources (at a minimum natural lighting and an off camera flash).

At times, using low key lighting (lighting only from one side) can be flattering and create far interesting images.

Once you have your expsure set correctly, you can use aperture and shutter speed to change the look of the photo to suit your artistic vision:

Changing aperture (and compensating with other factors) will reduce depth of field (the amount of the picture that's in focus, larger apertures (f/smaller numbers) will leave less of the photo in focus.

Changing shutter speed (and compensating with othr factors) will cause more motion to be captured. That can be good if you want to suggest movement, but is rarely an effect that looks nice in still photos of people. Try to keep your shutter speed faster than your focal length. A tripod will help, but remember that your model won't be perfectly still either.

Changing ISO means your sensor will use less light to make a decision on brightness/color, so there's more room for error. We call this error noise or grain. If you haven't, during your metering shots, try taking a few photos that expose properly at different ISO settings before hand (so you'll have to be adjusting your shutter speed or apature to compensate). This will give you some idea of how much of your ISO range will be useful. Most digital cameras can peform reasonably well up to ISO levels of 400-800 (better ones look good beyond that).

Please ask more questions, but realize that this is normally something that's easiest to learn if you're shooting pictures with different settings to see how they impact your photos.
 
If it were me, I'd take some photos at the location before the model arrives, and use ideally a laptop tethered to your camera to get your metering exactly how you want it. Take something with some colors (some mixed fruit or flowers if you don't have anthing better) and get a few combinations of exposure settings that work well. Write them down.

If metering is new for you, try setting your camera to aperture or shutter priority and take photos of the same thing from the same place while adjusting aperture values in A mode and shutter speeds in S mode. Notice how the other and possibly ISO (if it's set to auto) change to keep your exposure basically constant.

A flash will add light to your image (which allows lower ISO settings and more flexibility with shutter speed and apature), but flash light can be pretty harsh (which whites out skin tones and emphasises skin flaws), so angling it to bounce off the ceiling (or running an external flash through a softbox or bouncing it off an umbrella will make it softer. Better would be using several light sources (at a minimum natural lighting and an off camera flash).

At times, using low key lighting (lighting only from one side) can be flattering and create far interesting images.

Once you have your expsure set correctly, you can use aperture and shutter speed to change the look of the photo to suit your artistic vision:

Changing aperture (and compensating with other factors) will reduce depth of field (the amount of the picture that's in focus, larger apertures (f/smaller numbers) will leave less of the photo in focus.

Changing shutter speed (and compensating with othr factors) will cause more motion to be captured. That can be good if you want to suggest movement, but is rarely an effect that looks nice in still photos of people. Try to keep your shutter speed faster than your focal length. A tripod will help, but remember that your model won't be perfectly still either.

Changing ISO means your sensor will use less light to make a decision on brightness/color, so there's more room for error. We call this error noise or grain. If you haven't, during your metering shots, try taking a few photos that expose properly at different ISO settings before hand (so you'll have to be adjusting your shutter speed or apature to compensate). This will give you some idea of how much of your ISO range will be useful. Most digital cameras can peform reasonably well up to ISO levels of 400-800 (better ones look good beyond that).

Please ask more questions, but realize that this is normally something that's easiest to learn if you're shooting pictures with different settings to see how they impact your photos.
Thanks for the good input! I will go a bit early to test out some settings to see how much light I have to work with. Thanks for the advice.
 
Here is a link to a good basic tutorial for exposure. Click on the thumbnails for a larger version.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/the_basics

Remember that the various modes like M, A, S and P only determine what settings the camera adjusts automatically and what the photographer controls manually, but for a given combination of settings the exposure will be the same regardless of the mode. Since your subject likely won't be moving much you don't need a high shutter speed. Set the camera in A mode and pick an f/ stop that gives the depth of field you want. If you want to blur the background to emphasize the subject pick a large aperture (small f-stop number). Then if your shutter speed is below 1/60 or 1/120 or so bump up the ISO to get a high enough shutter speed to avoid motion blur from camera shake or subject motion. I am not too familiar with your camera but most modern DSLRs can handle ISO 200 or 400 without objectionable noise.

For something more creative look for Brian Petersen's book "Understanding Exposure"

http://www.digital-photography-school.com/understanding-exposure-by-brian-peterson-a-reader-review

You could also look at http://www.photosig.com for some photos with feedback and critiques to see what works and what does not from a lighting and composition point of view.

Your original post was about exposure, and others have talked about light and lighting so I won't elaborate on that.
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BruceMcK
http://www.pbase.com/brucemck
 

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