lens type for jewelry

Hi,

Doing research for the best type lens to use in jewelry photography. I have been away from photography for quite a while. My last camera is a Canon 35mm film slr. Just ordered a D90 to help my wife with her art. She designs and makes necklaces. I have approx 500 to photograph and want to do it right. I've searched the archives here and haven't found any threads relating to this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'll be using a setup similar to the one found at TableTopStudio.com where they show jewelry being photographed in a light tent.

I'm really looking forward to learning everything there is to know about the D90. It has been a process trying to find just the right camera at the right price and in stock. Been going back & forth between Canons 60D and the D90. Found an excellent buy for the D90, in stock, with a ton of extras at Overstock.com. Used paypals bill me later, got it for no payment for 6 months and 3% cash back. I'm excited, what can I say!

Thanks for the Help!
Dan

A macro lens should get the job done nicely. I have the nikon 60mm f2.8G lens and it's a gem in every sense of the word!

Edbitty said:

Hi,

Doing research for the best type lens to use in jewelry photography. I have been away from photography for quite a while. My last camera is a Canon 35mm film slr. Just ordered a D90 to help my wife with her art.

Click to expand...

I shoot quite a lot of hand-made jewelry images for a local artist. However, it's not intended to be high-end (because of her budget)...just a simple, clean, straightforward look...but it will give you an idea.

I use the 105 2.8 VR macro lens, and also the 17-55 2.8...which I also find works well, coz a small zoom is great for the compositional aspect at times.

Yes, if your budget is kinda small...use a diffuser, table-top, tent approach with 5600K lamps, and make sure to get the WB settings right. You will need at least 3 light sources, and preferably be able to light them from above/underneath too.

The main challenge is to control glare/reflective response...but to also introduce shadow elements, so as to create a non-flat (sterile) end result.

Also, with jewelry items...pp image clean-up is essential (especially if you are shooting against card or cloth)...simply because things like dust, lint, specs, etc will always be a factor...no matter how careful you are with the prep-work.

IF you layer-mask the background - then this of course won't become an issue.

Here's a few of the jewelry pieces that I've done recently.

http://kvincentphotography.ca/still-life/h3df3553c#h3df3553c
http://kvincentphotography.ca/still-life/h3df3553c#h104c8940
http://kvincentphotography.ca/still-life/h3df3553c#h7ca41b4
http://kvincentphotography.ca/still-life/h3df3553c#h29c438a7
http://kvincentphotography.ca/still-life/h3df3553c#h3d3a697e

KEV

Thanks guys! I'll be checking out those lens recommendations. Kev, Thanks for the pics, I was checking some of your shots from another post. I only hope my own can come close. You do great work! Thanks again!
Dan

Edbitty said:

Thanks guys! I'll be checking out those lens recommendations. Kev, Thanks for the pics, I was checking some of your shots from another post. I only hope my own can come close. You do great work! Thanks again!

Click to expand...

Dan,

Just keep in mind...that you don't necessarily need a macro lens for jewelry...it all depends upon how big it is...a regular lens will do...so long as it's tack sharp and has a good IQ performance.

The chances are, that most of your jewelry peices will be shot at regular viewing distance-ratios...so, therefore you won't need to fork out the extra $ for a new macro lens.

A tripod and shutter-release are a must tho, you can't hand-hold this kind of product shot...simply because you will be shooting in the f/16 to f/22 range, in order to get enough depth of field. Using a continuous light-tent setup, shooting at f/16 or so...(at ISO 100) your shutter speed will be in the 1/1.3s range.

KEV
--
http://kvincentphotography.ca/stackedimages
http://kvincentphotography.ca/designerflorals
http://kvincentphotography.ca/macro

Read this http://nikonrumors.com/2010/11/27/guest-post-shooting-products-with-nikon-tilt-lenses.aspx

But note that D90 does not support electronic aperture of PC-E lenses.

I was about to post the same link!

Bellows + dirt cheap enlarger is a great combo for many other macro work as well, if price is an issue.

--
Viktor
'Happy shooting!'

If you are shooting entire necklaces, the easiest way is with a copy stand and DIY tent. In that case, an AF 60mm f/2.8 Micro is an excellent lens for around $500. This lens would also work well if the necklace is on a bust or similar stand. It is extremely sharp, has a flat field of focus and almost no distortion.

If you want to lay the necklace down and shoot at angle, the PC-E 85mm will allow you to adjust the focus plane to get it all in focus.



--
Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

Robin Casady said:

Robin Casady wrote:

If you want to lay the necklace down and shoot at angle, the PC-E 85mm will allow you to adjust the focus plane to get it all in focus.

Click to expand...

As the OP is not familiar with shooting jewelry or product photography...I don't think using a PC-E lens would be an advisable option at this learning stage.

The key element in the beginning is to obtain the correct lighting setup and to get the hang of good composition, WB, etc. Stopping down to the f/16 or so range will offer a sufficient DOF, especially if shot from the correct angle and distance.

Focus stacking is also another option, and a lot less expensive than a 85mm tilt/shift lens...adding the extra T/S and MF components would probably be overload.

Decent results can be achieved with a basic table-top setup, and it won't take too long to get the hang of it.

KEV

http://kvincentphotography.ca/stackedimages
http://kvincentphotography.ca/designerflorals
http://kvincentphotography.ca/macro

KEVZPHOTOS said:

Member said:

Robin Casady wrote:

If you want to lay the necklace down and shoot at angle, the PC-E 85mm will allow you to adjust the focus plane to get it all in focus.

Click to expand...

As the OP is not familiar with shooting jewelry or product photography...I don't think using a PC-E lens would be an advisable option at this learning stage.

Click to expand...

It depends. Image stacking is not easy either. I'm familiar with both techniques (a lot more with PC-lens, taken from my "LF times"), and from my personal point of view PC done by the lens is easier and quicker.

Member said:

The key element in the beginning is to obtain the correct lighting setup and to get the hang of good composition, WB, etc. Stopping down to the f/16 or so range will offer a sufficient DOF, especially if shot from the correct angle and distance.

Click to expand...

I can't agree more.

Member said:

Focus stacking is also another option, and a lot less expensive than a 85mm tilt/shift lens...adding the extra T/S and MF components would probably be overload.

Click to expand...

If the price is a point - yes, it is cheaper. But bellows+80..150mm el lens is also worth to be considered.

I found PC-E angles to small for a number of tasks. Also doing macro with 24PC-E is difficult, as one has to move the lens towards the subject so close, that proper lighting may be impossible. 45mm PC-E+DX is better in this case, but ALL PC-Es has identical range of tilt angles - and with 85 it may be very limiting...
With bellows there are (virtually) no limits.

Member said:

Decent results can be achieved with a basic table-top setup, and it won't take too long to get the hang of it.

Click to expand...

You are rigt.

Member said:

KEV

Click to expand...

--
Marcin_3M

I've just recently started working with controlled lighting like you plan on doing but I do have two favorites for product/jewelry shots: Tokina 35mm Macro and Tamron 90mm Macro.

The Tokina is probably the best lens I have. It's built like a tank and has exceptional IQ/bokeh. The only downside is that if you want 1:1 macro's, you're going to be really close to your subject! But, it does a good job:

(My wife modeling the ring I got her for my out-of-state parents!)



For my controlled lighting, I prefer my Tamron 90mm (with BIM). It has superb optics on it as well but doesn't have the built quality of the Tokina. This has probably been the best lens I've used for product photography (see additional links below).

Here are some examples for you (keep in mind that these where the first shots I did with this lens and that I don't do jewelry that often!):

(My wife and I's rings - they already show their age!)



(My wife's promise ring and engagement ring)



Product Photography (with "setup" shot; Tamron 90mm): http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=36781451

Close-ups of a rose (black background; Tamron 90mm): http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1034&message=36810228

Hope that helps!

--
-Jaron
http://www.jhorstphotography.com

KEVZPHOTOS said:

Member said:

Robin Casady wrote:

If you want to lay the necklace down and shoot at angle, the PC-E 85mm will allow you to adjust the focus plane to get it all in focus.

Click to expand...

As the OP is not familiar with shooting jewelry or product photography...I don't think using a PC-E lens would be an advisable option at this learning stage.

The key element in the beginning is to obtain the correct lighting setup and to get the hang of good composition, WB, etc. Stopping down to the f/16 or so range will offer a sufficient DOF, especially if shot from the correct angle and distance.

Focus stacking is also another option, and a lot less expensive than a 85mm tilt/shift lens...adding the extra T/S and MF components would probably be overload.

Click to expand...

He has 500 necklaces to shoot. Focus stacking for that many shots would be an onerous job. Learning how to tilt a lens would be much easier.

The easiest way to handle neclaces (if the whole strand is to be included in the shot) is to use a copy stand and make a tent, out of a white bedsheet or similar cloth, and shoot it with a 60mm Micro. If just the pendant area is to be included, put it on a necklace bust and shoot with the back of the camera parallel to the necklace. No tilt lens needed.

--
Robin Casady
http://www.robincasady.com/Photo/index.html

Robin Casady said:

He has 500 necklaces to shoot. Focus stacking for that many shots would be an onerous job. Learning how to tilt a lens would be much easier.

Click to expand...

Actually, not necessarily...

Once you get setup for stacking it's a very quick operation. In fact, when I shoot a stack I don't even need to look thru the viewfinder (or use live-view) at all or even touch the lens again. Once the back point focus is set...I just fire off the series of shots quickly at 1mm intervals along the rail.

Most regular jewelry pics would only require a small 10x stack, or so...because one would be shooting from a certain distance back in order to get the entire subject into frame. Something like this flower stack..which is over 6 cms deep.
http://kvincentphotography.ca/stackedimages/h1c7b0230#hea8f0fc

It takes just 2-3 mins to shoot 15-20 images...and then in software, it only takes a normal amount of time to 'stack' the shots in CS5 or Zerene Stacker, etc. People think it's a complex procedure...but it's not, and once you have it down-pat...it's only a small amount of extra work...plus the "enhanced depth" results are far more comprehensive than what a T/S lens can provide. AND, you can also create very specific "stack" regions to emphasize certain parts of the subject with stacking...whereas with T/S you are more limited to that single plane of axis.

KEV
--
http://kvincentphotography.ca/stackedimages
http://kvincentphotography.ca/designerflorals
http://kvincentphotography.ca/macro