Best wide zoom for a DX

For me the choice would come down to either the Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 constant or the Nikon 10-24mm f3.5~4.5. From a practical standpoint it is convenient to have the 77mm filter size of the Nikon instead of the 82mm of the Sigma, with 77mm being what works with the Nikon 17-55mm, 24-70mm, 70-200mm, 85mm, and other key lenses. With the Sigma one gains an extra 2/3 f-stop in speed over most of the range.

The Tokina has too limited a range and that may be why so many are soon put up for sale by their owners.

The Sigma 8-16mm cannot accept filters and this can be a significant drawback. It is also 1-1/3 stops slower than the Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 lens which is a lot to give up unless the extra wide angle coverage is going to be frequently used.

Bottom line I would probably pick the Nikon with its greater zoom range and ability to use a 77mm filter.
 
For me the choice would come down to either the Sigma 10-20mm f3.5 constant or the Nikon 10-24mm f3.5~4.5.
It is just the opposite for me as my Sigma 10-20/4.5~5.6 has the convenient 77mm filter and my Nikkor 12-24/4 also has the convenient 77mm filter, same as my Nikkor 17-55/2.8, 70-200/2.8 and 300/4. when I use my DX bodies this is all very handy. When I use my D700 it changes. :-)

Regards
Terry
--
Graham Fine Art Photography
http://www.pbase.com/windancer
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See my profile for all my equipment.

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i weigh in on these a lot. i have different requirements for UWA lenses either than what other people USE or what they THINK about.

my previous UWA lens was a canon 10-22. this lens was AWESOME. sometimes i wish i still had my canon because of it... single tear rolls down my cheek...

now i've done a LOT of research on UWA lenses and here is my take:

first, RANGE is important. an 11-16mm lens is a wide angle lens only. a 10-24mm lens is a UWA lens, plus it zooms into wide-normal territory. anyone can tell you that the differences in FOV in the wide focal lengths are far greater than at longer focal lengths. 16mm compared to 24mm is a pretty big difference.

this makes the 10-24 a great lens that has many uses. i used to take my 10-22 to house parties. yes, i used it for "nightclub" style photogrpahy. 10mm was great for getting a whole room in the frame; 24mm was great for people shots with no distortion.

on the other hand, if you had an 11-16mm lens you would be stuck shooting only the UWA-wide shots. if you had an 18-55 you would lose the UWA completely. and i personally never carry more than 1 lens on me at a time.

this may be important to you, it may not. for me, a lens that can do TWO things well is far more valuable than a lens that does one thing very very well.

SECOND, i personally like to get in close with my UWAs. i love UWAs because they create dramatic scenes by exaggerating the spatial relationship between subjects. the have a unique perspective which is most apparent when you get CLOSE to your subject.

take a look at MFD and maximum magnification ratios of all the UWA lenses. the nikon 10-24 and sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 (as well as canon 10-22) are the best in this department. all three of them have a .24m minimum focus distance with magnifications that range in 1:5 (nikon at 24mm) to i think 1:5.4 (sigma at 20mm).

believe it or not, i shot my 10-22 at MFD quite a bit. at a wide 20-24mm and .24m you have a unique perspective that not a lot of lenses can achieve. sure, the 18-105 also has a 1:5 magnification ratio, but you don't get that ratio until you hit 105mm. it's a completely different perspective.

whether at 10mm or 20+mm, being able to get close to my subject with a UWA is essential to me. this is why i have to skip the 8-16, 11-16, and even tokina 12-24 (which has a .30m MFD and 1:8 max mag.). the nikon and the sigma are the only two lenses which get close enough for my tastes.

of course i could LIVE with a .30m MFD... but given the choice? i want the lens that focuses the closest!

FINALLY, there's the whole f/2.8 factor. personally i don't see that as a huge benefit. i agree, that it will create unique photos. MFD at f/2.8, 16mm, i'll bet you can get some very interesting photos. but is it worth it?

i don't think it makes up for the other factors. f/2.8 won't benefit you in low light, as UWA lenses are already easy enough to hand hold at low shutter speeds. if you can't get 1/15s i don't think f/2.8 vs. f/3.5 is going to save you. second, DOF is already so great on a UWA lens that unles you are at MFD you won't see any noticeable effects.

this is why i've chosen the 10-24 as my UWA lens, as soon as i can afford it! may not be for a few months, but i can't wait. i miss my canon 10-22!!!
 
I'm in sort of the same dilema only I've narrowd my choice to two Nikon lenses - 10-24 f3.5 or 12-24 f4 IF . Price difference is nominal at $100. both are DX designed lenses I believe.

With a lens this small in size I don't see the IF design being much of an advantage plus it's a tadd slower than the 10-24 f3.5

I'm leaning towards the 10-24

Any other points-of-view arre welcome
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John
 
Excellent explanation and enough to help me make the choice between the Nikon 10-24 and the Nikon 12-24. I'm going for the 10-24
--
John
 
http://www.bythom.com is better
I don't know that the Tokina is sharpest. I have read this on Rockwell's site and owners of the lens seem to rave about it.
Rockwell's site......bwaaaahahahahahahahahaha!!

--
http://jamesfraser.us
I know he is not universally respected and his opinions are just that. I get some general impressions from his site and than I do my research as I am trying to do with this post.
--
JohnE Nikon
--
http://jamesfraser.us
 
How do you know the Tokina is sharpest? I believe that is just a myth.

Some people owning these third party lenses are just believing things like that and write it over and over again.
Every review that I have read says that the Tonika is the sharpest out there. And I think that I have read three.

Bob :P
 
I have the Nikon 10-24 because it's a NIKON. I don't have nor have I ever had a third party lens. Yes, I am a Nikon snob and proud of it.
Why would you do that? I mean buy something just because of the name on the side of it? Wouldn't you rather own the best, regardless of who made it?

And why would you be proud of being a "snob"? I guess I just don't understand.

Bob :P
 
Great discussions.

I got my D7000 and Nikon tonight. Only shot indoors but love both. Camera is sharp with all lenses and I don't think I went wrong with the Nikon 10-24. I can't wait to try out some landscapes. I will be able to also use this lens indoors without flash given capabilities of D7000.
JohnE Nikon
 
Excellent explanation and enough to help me make the choice between the Nikon 10-24 and the Nikon 12-24. I'm going for the 10-24
i've read reviews of the nikon 12-24, and it looks like a very good lens. i saw some used on KEH.com and you can get them for a steal... but i just can't get over that whole magnification and MFD issue. if my memory is correct (all my crib notes are at work where i spend a lot of my day reading camera and guitar forums... heh) the nikon 12-24 is similar to the tokina 12-24 in that it has a .30m MFD and 1:8 max magnification.

believe it or not, i used my old 10-22 a lot for product style photography. i know, right? but believe me, getting in really close with a 20mm lens is a great perspectivce. when i bought my last guitar off craigslist i took pictures of it to show off to my friends on facebook. i used the 10-22 and got a lot of really close-up shots of the individual parts of the guitar...

anyway yeah. the 10-24 looks like it isn't built as tough, and the lack of IF may be annoying but it's certainly not a deal breaker for me. heck even the canon 10-22 wasn't IF (although the outermost barrel shroud extended past the moving element)
 
I have been considering a UWA for a while now and I must admit that choosing which lens to go for seems to be one of the hardest decisions.

The conclusion of this thread leans towards the Nikons. However, if you read the review of on http://www.photozone.de of the 10-24 it does not score that high. Visiting http://www.ferdmiranda.com and you would walk away with the Tokina 11-16 as the best choice.

This leads me to one of two conclusions; either people are (strongl) biased towards a specific brand or at the end of the day the pro/cons of these lenses compared ends up equalling eachother out.

Am I the only one with that perception?

Concretely on the Tokina 11-16, do anyone have shots to share showing what 2.8 means on the wide end comapred to slower lenses?

Cheers,

Christoffer
 

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