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E-PL1 blurry photos

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Photoshop uses pixel binning for displaying % zooms - so at 50% zoom its just nice and cleanly chucking out every other pixel... keeping 1 in 2 pixels... at 25% its just keeping every 4th pixel... 1 in 4....

But at 66% its having to drop approx 1.5 in 4 pixels... well you can't cut screen pixels in half. So you end up dropping (approx) 3 in 8 which is an uneven drop... keeping the first, keep the 2nd drop the 3rd keep the 4th bin the 5th keep 6th keep 7th bin 8th.... this leaves 2 pixels aligned as they should and a judder as the image shoves up for the gap left by the 3rd then as there is some sections which are 1 pixel on and one off the gapping compaired to the on on off is diffrent. This is reapeated accross the width of the screen making smooth diagonals look jaggady!

The reason a £400 app does this is for speed only (comming from slow PCs -photoshop on a 60MHz 16MB pentium)... in the day speed was crucial and waiting another 45sec for the screen to redraw just a tiny bit nicer was not gonna happen when you got stuff to do! - and you work at 100% where the display is true... I don't know about the latest CS5 intergration with NVIDIA this might bring a real time AA filter to the size reprocessing.. .i dunno I have not tryed CS5.
 
Thank you for the excellent explanation. So it wasn't just on my PC....maybe I should have added that my later notebook as well as the computers that were available for me for comparisons were all Macs and they have a different Photoshop of course.
 
P.S. I looked more accuratley and the effect you described is indeed still there...first I thought "but not nearly as massive as it was back then"...but then I opened some little pics - and it was the same as on my old PC. So, it was just a self-delusion - obviously I didn't open small pics on my photoshop for a long time.
 
It will be there with the macs too - although on both macs and PCs the recent-ish increase of "standard" resolution makes the effect less apparent (If you had a screen with a res of 10,000x6,000 ish it would be unlikely you would notice the jaggerdies... but they would still be there)...

Our best bet is the latest CS5 with NVIDIA as this uses the GRFX card to do all the transforms and rotations (and a lot of other nice stuff)... NVIDIA cards can do all this with AA filtering in realtime - so I'm fingers crossed CS5 will be as good as I hope!

Can anyone tell of their experiencee with CS5 and NVIDIA FX acceleration? - be intrested to know how after FX and premiere have speed up too.... anyone?
 
As an E-PL1 owner/user for afew months, my conclusions are:

-IBIS in the E-PL1 is not very effective
(I don't find it useful, I normally keep it switched off,
unless I'm trying to get a hand held with a slow shutter, e.g. 1/30)

-it is quite easy to get blurred results with or without IBIS
up to around 1/200 if you're not careful

-Given the light weight nature of the body, and the larger
sensor size, getting sharp results with this camera is problematic
 
oceanmoves said:
As an E-PL1 owner/user for afew months, my conclusions are:

-IBIS in the E-PL1 is not very effective
(I don't find it useful, I normally keep it switched off,
unless I'm trying to get a hand held with a slow shutter, e.g. 1/30)

-it is quite easy to get blurred results with or without IBIS
up to around 1/200 if you're not careful

-Given the light weight nature of the body, and the larger
sensor size, getting sharp results with this camera is problematic
Click to expand...
I've had mine for a couple weeks now. I don't notice a blur problem...I'm coming from heavier DSLRs though. I'm glad to have no mirror flop and a lighter camera. Is your firmware updated per the imaging resource article?
--
Gear listed in profile under "plan."

Someone stop me before I buy again, please!
Dave
 
they dont look too bad to me. maybe try for greater depth of field like f16-22 or so. give it more time. rude
is image stabil enabled?
Alan Pine said:
I am hoping someone can tell me what I am doing that wrong. I am coming from a Canon S90 which takes good photos. I just bought the E-PL1 based on many reviews and sample images. I went for a short walk to take my first photos. I was very excited to see how the results compared.

There must be a basic setting that I have wrong. I have not seen more blurry pictures on any camera I have ever purchased. If anyone can find a clear portion in the included photos I would appreciate knowing.

I have tried the iauto mode and the Program mode. I turned off face detection cause the green boxes were showing everywhere but where i was focusing. I changed the focusing from the 11 boxes to the center box only.

I cannot get a clear picture. I am really disappointed.

I hope someone can give me a suggestion

Thanks











Click to expand...
 
just a heads up, you really dont want to use f22 with m4/3. the lenses all pretty much reach their maximum sharpness by f8, and if you go much beyound f11 you actually start to lose sharpness due to diffraction.

one of the little quirks of the 4/3 format!
 
they look ok to me as well.

as for the ep-1 shutter blur, luckily have never had it so far on mine. Pentax K7 i had definately had the shutter blur, and your photo's don't seem to show that issue.

as others have said the kit lens ain't bad but not brilliant either, and i thought i heard somewhere the old 14-42 was a tad better then the new one?
 
I had the same sort of problem, coming from a heavy DSLR took some time to get accustomed to the weight regards Alan.
 
I read through the thread and looked at your photos. I have a few suggestions based on my experience.

1. If you are using 'A' mode, beware of very slow shutter speeds. IS can only help you within about 1-2 stops -- 3 if you are really steady. I have been an 'A' mode user for years, but decided that getting sharp photos is more important than DOF, so I switched to 'S' mode and ensure my speeds don't drop below 1/15 sec.

2. There is a feature called "anti-shock." It allows you to set a delay between the time you press the shutter button all the way and the time the shutter fires. I have mine set to 1/2 sec. I found that the motion caused by my pressing the shutter button overlapped the shutter release. Having the slight delay guaranteed that my hand was still by the time the shutter fired.

3. Make sure Release-Priority for S-AF is off

4. As the others mentioned, be aware of which focus target the AF is using. You should see the green box at the focus point

5. Never focus on trees or shrubs, especially on a breezy dat

6. Don't wait too long between the time you achieve focus (button 1/2 down) and then you fire the shutter. As soon as you hear the focus confirmation, press the button all the way.

There are some other tips I can share. Try those for now and see what happens.
 
MNE said:
I read through the thread and looked at your photos. I have a few suggestions based on my experience.

1. If you are using 'A' mode, beware of very slow shutter speeds. IS can only help you within about 1-2 stops -- 3 if you are really steady. I have been an 'A' mode user for years, but decided that getting sharp photos is more important than DOF, so I switched to 'S' mode and ensure my speeds don't drop below 1/15 sec.

2. There is a feature called "anti-shock." It allows you to set a delay between the time you press the shutter button all the way and the time the shutter fires. I have mine set to 1/2 sec. I found that the motion caused by my pressing the shutter button overlapped the shutter release. Having the slight delay guaranteed that my hand was still by the time the shutter fired.

3. Make sure Release-Priority for S-AF is off

4. As the others mentioned, be aware of which focus target the AF is using. You should see the green box at the focus point

5. Never focus on trees or shrubs, especially on a breezy dat

6. Don't wait too long between the time you achieve focus (button 1/2 down) and then you fire the shutter. As soon as you hear the focus confirmation, press the button all the way.

There are some other tips I can share. Try those for now and see what happens.
Click to expand...
I meant 1/8 sec on the anti-shock setting, not 1/2 sec
 
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