Exposure.

Great Bustard

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This is a continuation of:

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1032&message=36740698

Why doesn't exposure change with focal length?

because I just know everyone needed more than 150 posts on the subject. ;)

OK, here's my claim:

For a uniformly lit scene, the exposure will be the same for the same shutter speed and f-ratio regardless of framing or distance from the scene (so long as we are not at "high" magnification).

The explanation comes in two parts. The first situation is for the same framing, but different distances. Let's consider the case of 5 ft 50mm f/2 and 10 ft 100mm f/2.

Both will have the same framing. The aperture diameter at 50mm f/2 is 50mm / 2 = 25mm. The aperture diameter for 100mm f/2 is 100mm / 2 = 50mm. Thus, the aperture at 100mm f/2 has four times the area as 50mm f/2.

The amount of light reaching the lens from the scene at 10 ft is 1/4 the amount of light reaching the lens at 5 ft (inverse square relationship for light). The validity of using the inverse square relationship is discussed at the end of this post as an addendum.

Since there is 1/4 as much light reaching the lens at 10 ft than at 5 ft, but the aperture has four times the area at 100mm f/2 than 50mm f/2, the two effects cancel each other out, and the same amount of light falls on the sensor. For a given sensor size, this results in the same density of light, which means the same exposure.

The second case is for the same distance, but different framing. Let's again consider 50mm f/2 and 100mm f/2. The framing at 50mm f/2 is twice as wide as the framing at 100mm f/2, so we are collecting four times as much light (recall that we are assuming uniform lighting).

However, the aperture area at 50mm f/2 is 1/4 the aperture area at 100mm f/2, so only 1/4 of that light is getting to the sensor. Thus, once again, the two effects cancel each other out, and the same total amount of light reaches the sensor. And, again, for the same sensor size, that means the density of the light is also the same, and thus the same exposure.

Thus, for the same f-ratio and shutter speed, the exposure is the same, regardless of distance to the scene or the framing of the scene (for uniformly lit scenes). This also applies for different sensor sizes, but I'll skip those examples here.

OK, about the "inverse square law". Light radiates from each point in a spherical pattern. A sphere with twice the diameter will have four times the area. Thus, for a given amount of light, the amount of light per area will be 1/4 as much for twice the diameter.

However, for a scene that is not a point, when we double the distance from the scene, we are not doubling the distance from all the points in that scene -- we are only doubling our distance from the focal point.

Let's first consider the portions of the scene in the focal plane. As an example, we'll consider a distance of 10 ft at 50mm. The corners of the focal plane are 10.9 ft away, as opposed to 10 ft from the center. When we double our distance from the scene, the center is now 20 ft away, but the corners are 20.5 ft away. This, of course, is an insignificant difference.

However, if I instead get twice as close, 5ft at 25mm, the corners are now 6.6 feet away -- 2/3 their previous distance instead of 1/2 the distance. This still amounts to only around a 1/4 stop difference for the scene as a whole off from what the inverse square law would tell us. But, as we get closer, and wider, still, the difference will increase.

But what about the portions of the scene not on the focal plane? Objects far from the focal plane will barely change their relative distance to the camera at all, so there is basically no loss of light at all. However, as we step back and use a longer focal length, we capture less of the background. This effect cancels out the fact that the intensity of the light reaching the lens changes very little.

For those that doubt what I've claimed (and for those that care), I propose the following experiment:

Find a scene that is uniformly lit. That's the hard part -- how are you sure it's uniformly lit? I would say to meter a bunch of portions of the scene with high magnification from the same distance with the same focal length and f-ratio and see that the shutter speed stays the same.

That done, take a pic of the scene at any focal length and any f-ratio (if the zoom is a variable aperture zoom, use an f-ratio at least as large as the large end -- for example, if using a 70-300 / 4-5.6, use at least f/5.6).

Step back or forward, taking care that your shadow, however faint, does not fall on the scene, or that your body does not block any of the light sources. Frame the scene exactly the same, and take a pic with the same f-ratio again (and ISO, of course!). Note any difference in shutter speed.

I contend the shutter speed will not change (unless, perhaps, you are very close to the scene) and the pics will be identically exposed.
 
Hi Andre,

I feel like a jerk for continuing to go through this. I feel like I should really just let it go. I hope you have no hard feelings about and are enjoying the discussion.

Again, I think this is a misunderstanding. Reviewing the thread:
Great Bustard wrote:

It's the case for all non-collimated light sources. Frame a 12x18 inch sheet of white paper so that it fills the whole of the frame with a zoom lens. Take pics of it at the same shutter speed and aperture diameter at various distances. Note that the pics from further away are dimmer.
cm71td wrote:

Notice how he specifically says "same aperture diameter" and not "same f-stop". There is a very important difference.
Andre wrote:

It is a very important difference, but he does not specify the change in focal length, so we can only assume it is unchanged, which makes his statement false. All of the statements in these threads have implied no change if it is not mentioned. If he's changing that then he's weaseling out of a lost argument IMO. He also does not specify ISO either. Do we have to assume the ISO is changing too? No, it is implied that it is the same, right?
cm71td wrote:

He does say "Frame it so that it fills the whole frame", and "at various distances". The only way to do this would be to change the focal length.
Andre wrote:

But this is worse logic. You can't change the distance and change the focal length to keep the same FOV, while keeping the aperture the same. If you change FL, you change aperture by default. Again, there is no way the brightness can be dimmer at different distances.
Sure you can. When you double the focal length, you tell the camera to change the F-Stop by two stops. This keeps the diameter of the aperture the same as the previous focal length.

Here is the example Joe (Great Bustard) used, stating that the picture at 20ft (the one at f/4) would be dimmer:
Great Bustard wrote:

Shoot a subject 10 ft away at 50mm f/2 (aperture diameter = 50mm / 2 = 25mm). Then back up to 20 ft and shoot the same subject at 100mm f/4 (aperture diameter = 100mm / 4 = 25mm) and the same shutter speed.
Note that he is changing from f/2 to f/4 as he doubles the focal length to keep the aperture at a constant 25mm.

Do you agree that the picture at f/4 would be dimmer?
 
OK, here's my claim:

For a uniformly lit scene, the exposure will be the same for the same shutter speed and f-ratio regardless of framing or distance from the scene (so long as we are not at "high" magnification).
Sure, the same f-stop will always give us the same exposure (or f/2 = f/2, if you will ;-)), but did anyone dispute that in the other thread? Wasn't the discussion more about why the aperture diameter differs with different FLs for the same exposure? Guess that the simple answer is that the aperture diameter has to change for different FLs to maintain the same f-stop/ratio (or 'relative aperture'), since the f-stop is defined as FL divided by aperture diameter, meaning that the same f-stop always will have the same relative size seen from the sensor, and therefore always gives us the the same exposure (intensity), regardless of FL and sensorsize. Twice the FL, twice the distance between sensor and aperture, = twice the aperture diameter, or 4x aperture area like the inverse square law says, to maintain same relative aperture size, same f-stop and exposure/intensity.
 
Step back or forward, taking care that your shadow, however faint, does not fall on the scene, or that your body does not block any of the light sources. Frame the scene exactly the same, and take a pic with the same f-ratio again (and ISO, of course!). Note any difference in shutter speed.
I contend the shutter speed will not change (unless, perhaps, you are very close to the scene) and the pics will be identically exposed.

I don't think anyone is contending that they wouldn't be identically exposed.

Someone way back made a comment (and I don't remember the exact wording he used) saying that this discussion is confusing brightness with surface area (or something like that). I agree.

But if I still hear what I THINK I am hearing...that by going from 10 feet to 20 feet you lose a stop worth of light and that (put in simplified layman's terms) the physics of the lens, the sensor and the light make the adjustment, then tell me,

Why doesn't a spot meter indicate 2 different readings when you point it at a grey card from 10 feet as opposed to 20 feet?
 
the difference between a laser and a light bulb is...
I assume the reference to the laser is because the angle of view of a spot meter is so small. But what it does measure on the subject does vary nonetheless. One degree from 10 feet sees a slightly different surface area than 1 degree does from 20 feet, or 30 feet, or 40 feet. So, I am not sure how the comparison to a laser light is relevant.

Fact is the meter is measuring intensity of light that reaches itself. If the intensity of light is less at a greater distance, why then doesn't the meter indicate this? Place the meter 10 feet away, 20 feet away, 50 feet away, 100 feet away. It makes no difference. You always get the same result. If the light diminishes, why does the meter not indicate this?
 
Actually I should have said, the meter is measuring the amount of light falling on the subject. And again, no matter how far away you place this meter in relation to the subject you will always get the same result.
 
But if I still hear what I THINK I am hearing...that by going from 10 feet to 20 feet you lose a stop worth of light...
You lose two stops of light, not one. The amount of light reaching the lens 20 ft from the scene is 1/4 the amount of light reaching the lens 10 ft from the scene (in a given time interval).
...and that (put in simplified layman's terms) the physics of the lens, the sensor and the light make the adjustment...
The sensor makes no adjustment. Either the camera sees four times as much of the scene (same focal length), or the lens "makes the adjustment" by using an aperture with four times the area for the same framing.

Either way, gathering gathering light from four times the scene, or using an aperture with four times the area, cancels out having 1/4 as much light (per given time interval) twice as far away.
...then tell me,

Why doesn't a spot meter indicate 2 different readings when you point it at a grey card from 10 feet as opposed to 20 feet?
For the same reason as the camera gives the same exposure as detailed above.
 
the difference between a laser and a light bulb is...
I assume the reference to the laser is because the angle of view of a spot meter is so small. But what it does measure on the subject does vary nonetheless. One degree from 10 feet sees a slightly different surface area than 1 degree does from 20 feet, or 30 feet, or 40 feet. So, I am not sure how the comparison to a laser light is relevant.
If you are pointing the meter from the camera at the grey card then because the angle is narrow the reading will not change so long as the spot is only seeing the card. So for a big enough card you'll get the same reading from 10 feet as from 20 feet. Light is NOT "lost" just because it has travelled further.

When you do run out of grey card so that the spot sees the area around the card the reading will obviously change.

Andrew
 
the difference between a laser and a light bulb is...
I assume the reference to the laser is because the angle of view of a spot meter is so small. But what it does measure on the subject does vary nonetheless. One degree from 10 feet sees a slightly different surface area than 1 degree does from 20 feet, or 30 feet, or 40 feet. So, I am not sure how the comparison to a laser light is relevant.
If you are pointing the meter from the camera at the grey card then because the angle is narrow the reading will not change so long as the spot is only seeing the card. So for a big enough card you'll get the same reading from 10 feet as from 20 feet. Light is NOT "lost" just because it has travelled further.
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.

The reason exposure does not change with distance is, as the OP said and demonstrated, is because you are either gathering more light from a larger scene (same AOV as distance increases) or using a larger aperture diameter as distance increases (same framing and f-ratio).
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value. The only thing that has changed is the distance between grey card and spot meter. Even if you do change the angle of the meter...say go from a 1 degree to a 5 degree spot. As long as both see the greay card and only the grey card, you still get the same reading. Why?
 
I wasn't disagreeing with anything you said just trying to get over to Jay that the distance the light travels is not the factor, it is that light from a point source spreads out.

"light is lost" breaks the conservation of mass-energy but I'll not take you so literally and assume you mean that light is "lost" in so far as less light is captured by the camera.

Andrew
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value. The only thing that has changed is the distance between grey card and spot meter. Even if you do change the angle of the meter...say go from a 1 degree to a 5 degree spot. As long as both see the greay card and only the grey card, you still get the same reading. Why?
Why do you think distance should matter if you keep increasing the size of the grey card so that it always fills the area "seen" by the spot meter?

Andrew
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value.
I assume by "same aperture" you mean "same f-ratio". The problem with the word "aperture" is that, by itself, the term is ambiguous. The f-ratio is the relative aperture, and is the quotient of the focal length and the diameter of the virtual aperture (entrance pupil), where the diameter of the virtual aperture is the what the diameter of the physical aperture appears to be when viewed through the front element.

I refer to the diameter of the virtual aperture (entrance pupil) simply as "aperture diameter" as to distinguish it from the relative aperture (f-ratio).

OK, moving right along, it is impossible to simultaneously have the same framing and same AOV at different distances. The fact that a photo of a gray card looks the same is irrelevant, and it is that point that is holding you back from understanding what is going on.

If we take a pic of a huge gray card that is uniformly lit at 10 ft with any AOV, and step back to 20 ft and view it with the same AOV, we are seeing four times as much of the gray card. Thus, we are gathering four times as much of the light reaching the lens at 20 ft than we were at 10 ft.

But 1/4 as much light is reaching the lens at 20 ft as it was at 10 ft (inverse square law). Thus, the same total amount of light falls on the sensor (for a given time interval), and, for a given sensor size, this means that the density of the light falling on the sensor (exposure) is also the same.
 
I wasn't disagreeing with anything you said just trying to get over to Jay that the distance the light travels is not the factor, it is that light from a point source spreads out.

"light is lost" breaks the conservation of mass-energy but I'll not take you so literally and assume you mean that light is "lost" in so far as less light is captured by the camera.
Yes, that is exactly correct. I am only talking about the light reaching the aperture, and the portion of that light reaching the sensor.
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value. The only thing that has changed is the distance between grey card and spot meter. Even if you do change the angle of the meter...say go from a 1 degree to a 5 degree spot. As long as both see the greay card and only the grey card, you still get the same reading. Why?
Why do you think distance should matter if you keep increasing the size of the grey card so that it always fills the area "seen" by the spot meter?

Andrew
I don't. I am making a case for the opposite.
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value.
I assume by "same aperture" you mean "same f-ratio". The problem with the word "aperture" is that, by itself, the term is ambiguous. The f-ratio is the relative aperture, and is the quotient of the focal length and the diameter of the virtual aperture (entrance pupil), where the diameter of the virtual aperture is the what the diameter of the physical aperture appears to be when viewed through the front element.

I refer to the diameter of the virtual aperture (entrance pupil) simply as "aperture diameter" as to distinguish it from the relative aperture (f-ratio).
As I have said previously, I think people here are getting confused with various terms being misrepresented.
OK, moving right along, it is impossible to simultaneously have the same framing and same AOV at different distances. The fact that a photo of a gray card looks the same is irrelevant, and it is that point that is holding you back from understanding what is going on.
No, I am understanding your logic, but question why there is no measured difference in brightness when you change distance. Forget about taking a picture for a moment. If the light is falling off by 2 stops when you double the distance, why does a tool designed to measure brightness not indicate this? For that matter why do we not see it with our own eyes? I can see the affect when I move a subject away from its LIGHT SOURCE. Why should I not see it when I move the subject itself away from the camera? And if I could, would it not make sense that things miles away would appear rather dim?
 
...if you view the same subject with the same framing through an aperture with the same diameter.
With a spot meter, you ARE viewing the same subject, same framing (assuming the grey card covers the entire angle of view of the spot meter in each instance, same aperture, same reading, same reflectance value, same lux value. The only thing that has changed is the distance between grey card and spot meter. Even if you do change the angle of the meter...say go from a 1 degree to a 5 degree spot. As long as both see the greay card and only the grey card, you still get the same reading. Why?
Why do you think distance should matter if you keep increasing the size of the grey card so that it always fills the area "seen" by the spot meter?

Andrew
I don't. I am making a case for the opposite.
But your 1 degree spot meter will measure the light from a 4x larger area on the grey card if you use the spot meter at twice the distance.
 
But distance doesn't matter in this case if you compensate by making the grey card bigger...

Anyway, back to the orginal thread about focal length...

Try to think about a pin hole, a light cone and moving a piece of photographic paper further away from the pin hole. It should be simple to see that as focal length (FL) increases (distance of the paper away from the pin hole defines the focal length) the area of the base of the light cone at that point increases in proportion to FL^2 (simple proof with similar triangles/area of a circle).
The light on the paper is the "area of paper/area of the base of the cone"
So the light on the paper is proportional to 1/(FL^2).

So if we want constant exposure as we "zoom" we have to compensate for this by making the physical aperture (pin hole size) let more light in.
The pinhole nees to be bigger in AREA by a factor of FL^2.
To do that we need to physical diameter needs to increase by a factor of the FL.

In other words as FL increases we need to make the physical aperture diameter (D) bigger by a factor of FL.

i.e. to maintain constant exposure the D needs to be proportional to the FL
in other words FL/D = constant.

FL/D is defined as the f/stop.

So to maintain constant exposure as FL length changes the f/stop must remain the same.

Andrew
 

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