What went wrong with pic (off-motorsport pic)

G du Preez

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I took the photo below this morning. Only a small part of the car is in focus. A the first glance it look like a too small depth of field, but the camera setting suggest a very large depth of field: D300s, Nikkor 24-70 at 24mm, 1/200s, f10, appr. 8 meter from camera to subject. According to http://www.dofmaster.com , the in focus area should be from 1.82m - infinity. What could have caused the out of focus areas? The only thing I can think of is possible sideways movement of the car. I was panning the shot.



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Grobler du Preez
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http://www.groblerdupreez.co.za
 
I suspect that 1/200s was too slow.

Specifically, it looks to me like the front end of the car bounced up, blurring the front and the back end did something, probably dropped down, blurring it. The middle, around which things sort of rotate, is the least blurred.

That's my guess anyhow.
 
I took the photo below this morning. Only a small part of the car is in focus. A the first glance it look like a too small depth of field, but the camera setting suggest a very large depth of field: D300s, Nikkor 24-70 at 24mm, 1/200s, f10, appr. 8 meter from camera to subject. According to http://www.dofmaster.com , the in focus area should be from 1.82m - infinity. What could have caused the out of focus areas? The only thing I can think of is possible sideways movement of the car. I was panning the shot.

http://g4.img-dpreview.com/D3418CE3E8F247B1A87F17497299310F.jpg
Don't assume that your panning was done perfectly. It takes practice to pan well, and if you take a dozen panned shots, you'll probably get a great variety of results. A couple may look pretty good and a few may be blurred worse than the one you posted. In time you'll get a higher percentage of keepers but not without practice. You have to match the panning speed to the speed of the subject, and this constantly changes, where camera moves (rotates) fastest when the subject (the car) is closest, which seems to be how you took the shot. Also, most people that are new to panning don't follow through with the panning motion, but let the camera slow down or stop as they press the shutter button. If you don't exaggerate the follow through, even at a 1/200th sec. shutter speed, it may cause some blur. Also, try practicing pressing the shutter button in a way that doesn't cause the camera to move (even if you aren't panning) just due to the way the button is pressed. It should be easier to notice how well you can do by using the longest lens you have (preferably 300mm or longer and with VR turned off) while looking through the viewfinder at a fixed object as you press the shutter button.

Additionally, what kind of AF did you use, continuous or single shot? If it was continuous, you may have had a custom setting using Release instead of Focus, which allows the camera's shutter to open even if the subject isn't in perfect focus. I'm not sure if this setting is normally provided in the EXIF data, but your photo editor stripped 80% to 90% of the EXIF data so most of it is missing.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Here is another shot at the same position, but with 1/800s. The back 2/3 of the vehicle is in focus, but the front is still slightly blurred.

Yes, I used continious and release. I try and follow trough with the panning, but do find that the last of a series of shots is often unacceptably blurred.

I use NX2 to convert from raw and CS4 to add the copyright, so I don't know how some of the exif info could dissapear. I uploaded the pics to DPR galleries.

D300s, Nikkor 24-70 at 24mm, 1/800s, f10, appr. 8 meter from camera to subject.



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Grobler du Preez
[email protected]
http://www.groblerdupreez.co.za
 
I saw the shot (before it disappeared). 1/800 is not useful for panning unless is a jet from a close distance and the image showed it (panning effect subdued). It’s clearly not the ss. Were you successfully panning at 24mm before? I think if you manage to put some distance between the car – 15m say at least – the shot comes out sharp across.

Hynek

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http://www.sunwaysite.com
 
There must be something wrong with DPR's galleries, the photo is still in the gallery.

Yes, I would have liked more distance, but in this case I stood with my back right against a barbed wire fence. The reason I went from 1/200s to 1/800s was that the light intensity went very high and I did not want to to increase the depth of field with a smaller f-stop.

Theoretically, all parts of the vehicle should be in focus at the given f-stop. The shutter speed should not be the cause of out of focus areas as the body of the veihicle is solid and move together? Or is it that the different parts move at different speeds relative to the camera at such a short distance from the camera (the middle of the car is much nearer to the camera than the end) - where are our scientists?

Here are more pics with exif data intact:







--
Grobler du Preez
[email protected]
http://www.groblerdupreez.co.za
 
I think the answer is still the same. Too slow a shutter speed for the subject motion. You seem to be concerned only about the speed over the ground but, there are a lot of other motions there unrelated to those you can pan to accomodate. Look at the wheels and tires for example, to eliminate that spinning motion, you would need to rotate the camera very quickly while panning to stop the side to side motion..

It also seems that some of the OOF areas are actually due to depth of field using wide apertures.
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The shutter speed should not be the cause of out of focus areas as the body of the veihicle is solid and move together? Or is it that the different parts move at different speeds relative to the camera at such ...
I hope so  and I pray it stays that way till finish :-)
-yeah, kind of.

F stop is generous @24/8m. Shutter speed also looking at the background effect although the very close distance may require something special (parts of the image are sharp anyway). But crucially, I don’t think wa works here unless this effect is meant on purpose (F1 may be). 24mm, 8m is the problem imo. Reduces panning effect as well and makes it pretty tricky – you are skilled at that btw. To enhance the classic panning outcome go at least standard angle and put some distance from the object.

Hynek

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http://www.sunwaysite.com
 
Thanks! Unfortunately, you do not always have space to back up. And wide angle panning often do make a dramatic picture. I am not really worried about the out of focus areas, as long as the important parts are in focus. The OOF areas often make the picture more dramatic. I was just curious as the mathematical side of the exposure did not match what I saw.
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Grobler du Preez
[email protected]
http://www.groblerdupreez.co.za
 
You can get some very good results – actually you are getting them. This effect puts dynamics n emphases speed – reflects what’s existent and indeed perceived at this close - with these settings. Hit ratio may be lower but (nowhere close to film :-)) you seem to be an old hand at that, results should be worth it.

Best,

Hynek

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http://www.sunwaysite.com
 
Without any scientific evidence to back it up, I would expect that this is a result of the relative speed of different parts of the cars across the frame. If you notice, the shots that you took parallel to the cars have the entire car in focus. The ones exhibiting partial blur have the car approaching at an angle.

The close distance that was necessary to use use that relatively wide lens would increase this effect. The closer you are to an object, the faster it will travel across the frame of a photo. Therefore, a closer object requires a faster shutter speed to stop the action. When you are as close as you were to a speeding car, even though the entire car is moving at the same speed, the portion closest to the camera will move across the plane of the photo frame faster that the more distant portions.

I have taken many waterfall photos, and quickly became aware that, in order to get the same amount of blurring in falling water, I would have to increase my shutter speed as I moved closer to a waterfall.

Think of shooting an airplane in the sky. Assume that you are using the same focal length for two shots of the plane. In the first shot the plane, the plane is at a distance such that it is a small detail in the sky. It would be easy to have the plane appear sharp, and, at sufficient shutter speed, it could appear relatively sharp without the necessity of panning. In the second shot, the same plane, travelling at the same speed, passes by at just 50 feet in front of you. You would be hard pressed to capture that plane as anything but a blur.

I thnk that you are experienceing the same effect. You shot from close enough to the car, and at a sufficient angle, to record the fact that the front on the car, being closer to the plane of your sensor, was actually moving faster across the frame than was the middle of the car.

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Cliff

http://www.pbase.com/cliffb
 
You've gotten some good comments, ultimately the biggest factor in most of these shots was the difference in closing speed to you of the various parts of the vehicles. Unless your shots are dead on broadside of the vehicle (standing at the center point of a large circle or using an extremely long focal length and shooting a long straight stretch side on) you'll always get some blurring of the front or rear of the vehicle. Ultimately your panning the center of the vehicle but as the angle relative to you changes the effective closing speed of the vehicle to your position will change.

24mm focal length is probably your biggest problem, I can get much less blurry shots at 180mm at the same shutter speeds because the effective closing speeds of the vehicles are much lower when working over a longer distance.

This one is one of the sharpest captures I've gotten at a slow-ish shutter speed because the car was exactly parallel to me:





This is another favorite, but if you look at the sticker under the seat on the back you can already see it starting to blur from the minor difference in closing speed to me:





both shots are D200, 180mm f2.8 at 1/160th of a second
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-Mike
 

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