Two months and three thousand miles with the EX1

repentsinner

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I have been travelling with the EX1 for the past couple of months, here is a small selection of what I've managed so far with this little camera. It is not without its shortcoming and maddening UI quirks, however it is certainly a capable performer and an impressive debut pro-compact from a company not known for its cameras. Raw capture coupled with LR3 (hello lens correction module!) is a potent package. I'm looking forward to what Samsung comes up with next, and hopefully it is an improvement on an already great compact.

Thanks to all the contributors here who's brave early adoption convinced me to give this thing a try. I've been hauling a k10d/fa31 with me as well which is a fantastic combination, but it just can't beat the EX1 for pocketability.

There are more in my user gallery, and on http://flickr.com/photos/thrustty

Comments/critiques welcome.











































 
I like your photos, the EX1 is very capable in many situations. I am also just back from a trip around Australia of 20,000km in 4 months where I took 2500 images with my EX1.

Brian
 
Hi Guys,

Can you tell me the shortcomings/weaknesses( ) and strengths of this camera, I am thinking of getting one? Similarly I am going on a trip overseas as well.

Thanks.
  • elaborate on the UI weaknesses.
 
I wish you had a pleasant journey. The picutres in Flickr you have taken are very nice and the descriptions are helpful.
 
Hi Guys,

Can you tell me the shortcomings/weaknesses* and strengths of this camera, I am thinking of getting one? Similarly I am going on a trip overseas as well.

Thanks.

* elaborate on the UI weaknesses.
ttan98: I think everyone's needs are going to be different, so the strengths and weaknesses I see may not be the same for anyone else. Take the following with a pinch of reality about how you plan to use the camera - it is just a tool after all.

Strengths:
  • Good image quality at ISO100-200. Only 10Mpix helps to keep noise down and eases post-processing. I'm not convinced that more than 10Mpix is useful for non-pro, especially as it is treated as a marketing "numbers race" feature, and not an actual make-the-photos-better feature. It is good to see that trend starting to fall off.
  • Fast sharp lens and optical image stabilization for low-light handheld (the reflective blob shot and the 5th Ave foods were shot hand-held, at 1/10 - 1/3s)
  • Pocketable size. This one is critical. It isn't a small camera by any means, but it is small enough to fit in my back pocket. That's all I need.
  • Articulating display. I didn't think I'd like this, but find it really useful for (a) shooting from the hip, and (b) creating an ad-hoc tripod by balancing the camera and tipping it back to lean against the display. Oh, and I guess it goes well with macro stuff so you don't have to lie on the ground to take pictures of bugs.
  • Raw file format, for use in LR3. All my white balance is done in post, as well as a fair amount of exposure and curves manipulation. The out-of-camera colour and tone is ok, but I'd rather not spend time in the menu system mucking with it in the field and just save adjustment for later.
  • LR3 lens correction profile. This one is huge for me since I take a lot of "architectural" photos and the lens distortion goes away like magic. Aren't computers great?
Weaknesses:
  • Lack of direct control (from a dSLR perspective. From a P&S perspective it is pretty good). This should also be tempered by the fact that I'm coming from a Pentax system, and the amount of customization and utility that Pentax has developed is already way ahead of Canikon. I miss the green button, the dedicated AF button, and the two control wheels. If you aren't a Pentax user, these things probably won't bother you. I find the front control wheel on the EX1 to be almost useless, and too much stuff is piled into the rear one. A better balance could be found.
  • Ridiculous proprietary raw format. Fortunately LR3.2 came out at the same time I bought the EX1, so I just got them together and it auto-converts .srw to .dng on import, saving ~35% file size on average. I'm also more confident that twenty years from now I'll be able to open a .dng, not so sure about .srw.
  • Ridiculous proprietary USB connector. This one is self explanatory. Why does the world need yet another connector that doesn't offer anything over the readily available ones? Oh, to annoy me. Right.
  • Battery/SDcard door that is too close to the tripod mount. Can't leave a tripod quick-release plate on the camera and access the SD card at the same time.
  • Minimum aperture f6.7, max shutter speed of 1/1500 is still not stopped down and quick enough to take much in bright sunlight. And forget about having any creative control in really bright light, the camera is doing all it can to not blow out. I think ISO50/25/12/6/3/1 would be fantastic on digital cameras, kind of a digital ND filter to allow creative control in bright light. Not sure why this isn't possible, but I would appreciate that just as much as ISO1000000000 (current camera numbers race that has taken over for the Mpix one).
  • No DoF, even at f1.8. This is just a small lens thing, not a whole lot you can do about it but take different pictures.
  • No auto lens cap. Any camera that can't turn on if the lens cap is on should be redesigned. I'm sorry but that is ridiculous. dSLRs turn on with lens cap on, you just get a black image if you try to shoot with it on. P&S turn on with the lens cap on and they open it for you. This middle ground is worst of both worlds, it forces an order of operations that is not needed.
  • Annoying menus. Who wants to go into a menu to switch between normal/macro/manual focus? I just want to push the button and have it cycle through. The manual focus thing where you have to use the zoom rocker to enter the mode and then the rear dial to adjust really smacks of not having enough control surfaces. Why not select the mode with the rear dial, and then use the front dial to adjust focus? The only thing I use manual focus for anyway is infinity so the damn camera doesn't hunt in low light. I'd be happy with the P&S trifecta of flower/regular/mountain modes.
Looking back, the weaknesses section looks larger than the strengths section. That's not the case in practice. The only weakness that really bothers me on a day-to-day is the controls layout, and I'm slowly learning to work around that. The rest are just annoyances that could be fixed to make this a genre-defining superlative camera, but don't really get in the way of using it to make great images. All tools have limitations. Its about how you use them that is important.

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the comments everyone. I have another two months and further three thousand miles to go, I'll post another batch when I get home. Brianj, looking forward to seeing what you found in Australia.
 
Great pics. Enjoy your trip!
 
Nice capture Repentsinner, esp the one with parts of Orion constellation.

I do wonder how far EX1 can go with 24mm f/1.8 and 16 seconds on night sky or our milky way. With raw capture and with careful NR I think ISO800 or even 1600 might be useful... I know I can't ask for too much with such class of camera but 24mm fast lens on DSLR world would cost a fortune.

-
hiruka
 
Nice capture Repentsinner, esp the one with parts of Orion constellation.

I do wonder how far EX1 can go with 24mm f/1.8 and 16 seconds on night sky or our milky way. With raw capture and with careful NR I think ISO800 or even 1600 might be useful... I know I can't ask for too much with such class of camera but 24mm fast lens on DSLR world would cost a fortune.
Here's one I took on my trip, it was braced on a table and as you see it is ISO800 and 16sec. It has been PP to bring up the shadows a little and noise reduced then sharpened for web viewing.





Brian
 
ISOs outside the optimal range for a camera reduce dynamic range just like ISOs that are too high.

Like on Nikons their normal ISO range starts at 200 but they have a "Lo" setting for ISO 100. ISO 100 yields less dynamic range, a stop less in the case of the D90 (versus ISO 200).

So ISO 50/25/12 ... wouldn't be practical for a small-sensor camera, which is already limited.

Having a physical ND filter would be extremely useful, may one not that strong - e.g. 2 stops instead of 3 stops to facilitate pictures in bright situations.
I think ISO50/25/12/6/3/1 would be fantastic on digital cameras, kind of a digital ND filter to allow creative control in bright light. Not sure why this isn't possible, but I would appreciate that just as much as ISO1000000000 (current camera numbers race that has taken over for the Mpix one).
Small lens don't correspond to a lack of DoF.

DoF can be squeezed out of many compact cameras. If I can do it with a 1/2.5' sensor with a f/2.8 max aperture, then it's absolutely possible with a 1/1.7' sensor with a f/1.8 max aperture. The only string attached is that the DoF is most obvious in macro shots.

As for portraits, there isn't much DoF at all. Better off adding a Gaussian blur to the background than trying to get some.
  • No DoF, even at f1.8. This is just a small lens thing, not a whole lot you can do about it but take different pictures.






 
Wow~ Thank you for your quick sample !

Not bad for such a little camera ! With your photo I tried to further fine tune the noise and a heavy push on the saturation, I am able to get the result I was looking for. I am overall satisfied, if not impressed, by this camera. Seems like I am getting this one for the upcoming holidays. :D

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hiruka
 
Wow~ Thank you for your quick sample !

Not bad for such a little camera ! With your photo I tried to further fine tune the noise and a heavy push on the saturation, I am able to get the result I was looking for. I am overall satisfied, if not impressed, by this camera. Seems like I am getting this one for the upcoming holidays. :D
That was only jpg, and the photo was taken with the camera sitting on its back (LCD down) on a camping table looking up at the sky. I am sure you could do a lot better with some care.

Brian
 
ISOs outside the optimal range for a camera reduce dynamic range just like ISOs that are too high.
Ah right. This was more of a wishlist type thing. I'm not actually sure of the engineering required to accomplish a digital ND filter. A physical one(s) would be fine too.
Small lens don't correspond to a lack of DoF.
Correct. Small aperture does.
DoF can be squeezed out of many compact cameras. If I can do it with a 1/2.5' sensor with a f/2.8 max aperture, then it's absolutely possible with a 1/1.7' sensor with a f/1.8 max aperture. The only string attached is that the DoF is most obvious in macro shots.

As for portraits, there isn't much DoF at all. Better off adding a Gaussian blur to the background than trying to get some.
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my wording. To clarify, there is little control over shallow DoF effect at non-macro focussing distances. This has to do with the physical size of the aperture compared to the subject, the distance to the background/foreground, and the relative size of circles of confusion that causes the blur compared to the size of the features of the subject. I stand by my original assessment that like all compact small lens/sensor cameras, there is no usable shallow DoF for "normal" subjects. Macro is a whole other thing, it worked fine in your sample shots and the dragonfly image I posted. It is not sufficient for portraiture, which I think is something a lot of people would like to do, and they think that it can magically be done because the EX1 has an f1.8 lens vs. the typical f2.8-3.5 lens of most P&S cameras. This is not the case. The difference between f1.8 and f2.8-3.5 in real size on a P&S camera is just not enough to achieve good out-of-focus blur for portrait work.

You can think of it like this: when focussing on something in the foreground, the maximum size of an out-of-focus point light source in the background is directly proportional to the aperture size. If your subject is small (aka macro photography) relative to the size of your lens/aperture, then a small circle of confusion in the background is relatively large and you get good subject/ground separation. If your subject is large (aka portraiture) relative to the size of your lens/aperture, then a small circle of confusion in the background/foreground is relatively small, and seems not blurry enough to generate good subject/ground separation. For this you need a lens/aperture that is scaled up to better match the size of the subject and distance between subject and foreground/background.

Hope that makes sense.

Also gaussian blur is insufficient for any number of reasons including it not actually being an optical effect resulting in pleasing bokeh (a point light source optically blurred due to out-of-focus will render as a large well-defined disk, a point light source gaussian blurred will end up as a smudge), and most importantly not being able to generate subject/ground separation in which the subject has a crisp in-focus edge directly bounding on an out-of-focus foreground/background element. There is a reason why we don't do everything in software yet, and people still are after this in their lens system. The reason why your leaf photo works is that the edge of the leaf is sharp directly against the blurry background. If you have the ability and patience to photoshop cut elements of your photos out and blur different depths at different amounts, go for it =) I would rather get the lens to do that for me.
 

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