E-P1 > Q. concerning practical experience

hello everybody!

now that i've sold my DLRS, i've been looking for a smaller, but still reliable camera. so far, my favourite's been the E-P1 (although i haven't decided on a lens yet).

now, i've read a couple of reviews (especially the one here) and talked to some more experienced photographers, but i'm still sort of worrying about the !practicability! of the EP-1. I hope there's some E-P1 users that could help me out with the following questions:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder. plus: what is your way to circumvent this situation?

to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2. so that's not a possible solution ;-)

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1? or do i have to buy the pancake lens in order to use the VF-1?

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

any response is much appreciated!
cheers, fieofieo

fieofieo said:

hello everybody!

now that i've sold my DLRS, i've been looking for a smaller, but still reliable camera. so far, my favourite's been the E-P1 (although i haven't decided on a lens yet).

now, i've read a couple of reviews (especially the one here) and talked to some more experienced photographers, but i'm still sort of worrying about the !practicability! of the EP-1. I hope there's some E-P1 users that could help me out with the following questions:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder. plus: what is your way to circumvent this situation?

to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2. so that's not a possible solution ;-)

Click to expand...

I don't use the viewfinder supplied with the 17mm lens. I'd say that if a viewfinder is important, it'd be better to go with the E-P2 or another camera with it incorporated inside.

fieofieo said:

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1? or do i have to buy the pancake lens in order to use the VF-1?

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

Click to expand...

Low light shooting. Although the PEN performs admirably with bright lenses like the f1.7 20mm, I generally have to limit myself to ISO1600 (and even then I'm not that happy). I've been toying with the idea of investing in a full frame camera with good high ISO and brighter lenses to get the shots I want, but the investment is just too much. If a future m43 camera came out with a sensor capable of shooting ISO3200 or 6400 clearly with good quality, I wouldn't need the extra oomph of a FF camera. I know I'm asking a lot though. Quality high ISO in smaller sensors just doesn't really happen at present .

fieofieo said:

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

Click to expand...

I have only used the E-P1 extensively, but I preferred it over the feel of the GF-1 and I love the Olympus Jpeg colours. I tend to shoot Jpeg in order to save on file size an because I can make all adjustments I want in Lightroom without the need for RAW.

fieofieo said:

any response is much appreciated!
cheers, fieofieo

Click to expand...

--
http://gakuranman.com

The E-P2 is the better choice (EVF)
The E-PL1 has flash and better functions for legacy lenses and great price
However Sans flash / EVF and for the right price the E-P1 is a great buy
if your happy with LCD only and in the main its fine

The kit lens is really very good but if you want speed and IQ the Pany 20/1.7 is the go
Think it over .. but you wont regret the E-P1 very cool looking and handling CAM
--
John

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THanks for the answer.

Is it possible to see some of those low light shots you're not particularly satisfied with?

I'm just wondering, since dpreview.com says: "Good high ISO performance up to ISO 3200 and lots of control over noise reduction"

Anyway, one or two shots would be great!Thanks

Thanks.

so you'd say it's kind of impossible to shoot with the optical VF-1? may be in combination with turning the LCD on and off at times... i don't know

unfortunately, the E-P2 is out of range (in terms of money)

Noise does clean up well in Lightroom (even on Jpegs), but I'm talking about wanting really sharp pictures from ultra low light situations like aquariums and abandoned buildings. It's a very tall order, so I try not to expect too much. No low-light 3200 shots to show you really, as I tend to avoid the setting. Although there is one (resized) picture on this page. It's the shot of me holding the chopsticks:

http://gakuranman.com/random-japan-photos-1/

It's not bad at all. But I want the fine detail that gets lost at higher ISOs.
--
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doesnt look bad at all!
so is this shot with the pana 20mm/1.7?

That's the one.
--
http://gakuranman.com

fieofieo said:

THanks for the answer.

Is it possible to see some of those low light shots you're not particularly satisfied with?

I'm just wondering, since dpreview.com says: "Good high ISO performance up to ISO 3200 and lots of control over noise reduction"

Anyway, one or two shots would be great!Thanks

Click to expand...

Here are a few that I recently captured at a dimly lit night club. Was my first experience shooting in such an environment. I definitely had to crank up the iso on most, except when securing the camera against a ledge. Generally i'm pleased. Didn't expect the same results as i would in "ideal" conditions. This with ep1 and 20 f1.7

No post production - OOC jpg's

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49657796@N05/with/4992270000/

fieofieo said:

hello everybody!

now that i've sold my DLRS, i've been looking for a smaller, but still reliable camera. so far, my favourite's been the E-P1 (although i haven't decided on a lens yet).

Click to expand...

You will love the E-P1!

fieofieo said:

now, i've read a couple of reviews (especially the one here) and talked to some more experienced photographers, but i'm still sort of worrying about the !practicability! of the EP-1. I hope there's some E-P1 users that could help me out with the following questions:

Click to expand...

I'll try...

fieofieo said:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder. plus: what is your way to circumvent this situation?

to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2. so that's not a possible solution ;-)

Click to expand...

I don't use the VF-1. Only shoot using the LCD live view on the back. I find that to be more than adequate and gives me a better sense of the final composition compared to peeping through a hole. More fun too! I don't really miss the viewfinder of my DSLR.

fieofieo said:

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1? or do i have to buy the pancake lens in order to use the VF-1?

Click to expand...

I have not done it, but I'm sure you could.

fieofieo said:

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

Click to expand...

The IBIS does not give you any assistance on the LCD when trying to focus and compose with a telephoto lens. The photos come out fine. The camera is not good for birding or catching fast action unless you go with a predetermined focus setting. For these situations, I still pull out my trusty DSLR.

fieofieo said:

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

Click to expand...

For the price right now, there is not a lot of competition. The large sensor size rules out all the high end P&S and super zooms. I considered the E-PL1 but it felt flimsy and the pop-up flash looked like it would be prone to snapping off.

For the same price you could pick up an Olympus E450 or Canon XS. The Canon has faster focusing and access to a much wider array of lens options if you don't mind having a larger camera with you.

Since picking up my E-P1 at the end of June, it has rarely left my side and has been used far more often than my aging Rebel. It has made photography a lot more spontaneous and fun. I also think the retro styling makes the camera less of a theft target because I have had many people comment on my nice "old" camera!

After a little reluctance, I have found the high ISO setting very usable and helpful. It is amazing how little light you need for a photo at ISO 6400 with IBIS. At normal viewing sizes, the grain is not too noticeable. With judicious use of Noise Ninja on the few keeper shots, they wind up looking fantastic. Pixel peeping in this case is not recommended and will only drive you nuts.

I posted some ISO comparison shots here:

http://web.me.com/bworthingham/Photography/Tests/Entries/2010/5/22_Olympus_E-P1_ISO_Tests.html

Here is a hand held shot of a band taken at ISO 6400 in very low light. There was only one fluorescent fixture in the ceiling lighting the entire band and the room.





Here is the same shot processed with Noise Ninja to smooth things out a bit.





Judge for yourself...

fieofieo said:

any response is much appreciated!

Click to expand...

My pleasure!

fieofieo said:

cheers, fieofieo

Click to expand...

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fieofieo said:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...)...to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2.

Click to expand...

If you really meant EP1, the VF2 doesn't work with it anyway. For myself, I rarely ever looked at the electronic readouts in DSLR VF's as the info is also available on the LCD. So it's not annoying for me at all.

fieofieo said:

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

Click to expand...

On my EPL1,, the biggest tradeoff, besides lack of an optical VF, is an inability to see the LCD in bright sunlight. I can still frame the photo, but easyto miss things. I was carrying both a DSLR and an EPL1 over the weekend, and of course, it was easier to bring the bigger camera up to eye level and shoot. On the other hand, for some angles, that was impossible, and having the LCD at waist or knee level was handier. If the VF2 came down to $100, maybe I would get one, but at $249. I'd sooner spend that toward a camcorder, or another pocket cam.

fieofieo said:

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

Click to expand...

Because of the currently high prices, I would only recommend it to DSLR owners who are used to the market.

I think a future m4/3 camera with a fixed 5X or 10X zoom will come out next year for users who want a simpler solution with better image quality.

Hi,

I own an E-P1 and while it is a great camera in terms of imaige quality, it has one important flaw : the lcd in bright sun and even in not so bright sun.

1) The sun on the lcd can be very nasty : it will prevent you to use the camera in manual focusing mode. You won't see whether things are infocus or not, even using the magnifyier and this quite early. In more situation than I would want it is also preventing you to frame things very accurately. You will get a good idea of the general framing, but you won't notice killing details : like unwanted things appearing in the corners or like keeping your camera perfectly level.

2) The lcd is not articulated like the one on the Panasonic G1. So you won't be able to turn it slightly differently in order to avoid the effect of the sun.

For all those reasons you'll need a viewfinder in bright sun. Now is the VF1 enough ? I don't own one, so I can't really tell. But from what I've read

1) it is a purely optical viewfinder without any connection to the camera, so you can probably use it with the kitzoom as well as with the 17mm lense. There is mark for the 17mm focal on the kitzoom, but there is one at 18mm and you can surely adjust the zoom to show exactly what the lcd shows and what you'll fram with your picture.

2) As long as you are not using the legacy lenses needing manual focus, an optical finder may be all you need, but I'll let people using it tell you about their experience.

3) It would be better to get the VF1 along with the E-P1 and the 17mm kit. Getting the VF1 separately will cost you much more, not much less than the VF2 and it may be somewhat difficult to find.

4) Some people use other separate viewfinders which you can find on the market but they are usually; I've looked for that, but they are usually not cheaper than the Olympus VF. Depending on where you live, it may be interesting to look on Ebay to find one second hand ? and get complementary focal lengths. But when you sum them all, the price may be higher than getting the VF2.

Conclusion :

The VF2 has a bigger advantage over the VF1 : it shows you what your lens sees, plus all the information exactly like the lcd does. It has a superb quality. The E-P1 can't take the VF2, it is a big disadvantage and the reason why there are actually good deals on the E-P1. However there are very good deals on the E-Pl1 as well and I won't get an E-P1 right now, because you'll be stuck for ever with the VF1.

If I was on a budget I'd get an E-Pl1 and save some cash in order to get the VF2 later. Look for the best deals on the net, may be that you can even find one second hand.

If I was not on a budget, I'd go for an E-P2 kit, with the VF2 included.

As for me, I'm stuck with the E-P1 which I already got one year back, before the E-P2 was issued and I'm waiting for an E-P3 with an articulated lcd and a VF2 plug..

fieofieo said:

hello everybody!

now that i've sold my DLRS, i've been looking for a smaller, but still reliable camera. so far, my favourite's been the E-P1 (although i haven't decided on a lens yet).

now, i've read a couple of reviews (especially the one here) and talked to some more experienced photographers, but i'm still sort of worrying about the !practicability! of the EP-1. I hope there's some E-P1 users that could help me out with the following questions:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder. plus: what is your way to circumvent this situation?

to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2. so that's not a possible solution ;-)

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1? or do i have to buy the pancake lens in order to use the VF-1?

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

any response is much appreciated!
cheers, fieofieo

Click to expand...

--
rrr_hhh

E-p1 lcd in bright sunlight still gets to the point of being no use at all and a guess at what your shooting.

Tried the vf-1 that came with the camera and never really liked it. it takes up the flash space so you either use it or a flash, plus its only designed for the the 17mm lens and of no real use for other lenses, would be prone to getting knocked off/broken/lost.

E-p1 is a lovely little camera, especially if you just use the 17mm lens on it, makes you really think about composition and you really do go unnoticed walking round with it opening up photo opportunities that might otherwise be missed.

Its not a speed demon but its not supposed to be. Its a sort of camera you take out and just enjoy using after you get used to how it works.

Hi Fieofieo,

fieofieo said:

now that i've sold my DLRS, i've been looking for a smaller, but still reliable camera. so far, my favourite's been the E-P1 (although i haven't decided on a lens yet).

Click to expand...

While the kit lens may sound more practical, I should tell you that I'm very impressed with the little 17mm pancake. It's faster than the kit lens at f2.8, though f2.8 is nothing to brag about. But the images are just gorgeous. I like my good lenses and I've paid good money for an Olympus OM 90/f2 macro, which is legendary, and a Leica Summitar that I had CLA'd. The 35mm is definitely quite close in quality to those two. The E-P1's JPEG colours definitely help, too.

Up to you to decide if you can live with the limitation (I find it inspiring) and with the angle of view (I'd prefer a 25mm).

fieofieo said:

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder. plus: what is your way to circumvent this situation?

to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2. so that's not a possible solution ;-)

Click to expand...

In the ideal world, I would've bought an E-P2 with VF-2. I didn't have the money to spend, so I got a good deal on the E-P2 + 17/f2.8 + VF-1. I've put the VF-1 on the camera once, maybe twice, but I never used it for real photography. It ruins the lines of the camera without any real advantage. Some people may like it when working in bright sun. But I seem to use my camera in a different way than others: I look at a scene, then I just use the LCD for framing. Working this way, I can frame with the LCD even if it's nearly completely washed out: just a hint of some recognisable objects (people, poles, ...) and I know my framing is okay.

As I said, I would've liked to try out the VF-2. But I think it would also ruin the way the camera handles. The E-P1 is just great when slipping it in and out of a bag from time to time: any extra protrusion on the top and it just doesn't handle as well anymore.

fieofieo said:

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1? or do i have to buy the pancake lens in order to use the VF-1?

Click to expand...

If you can zoom to 17mm exactly, then it should be possible.

fieofieo said:

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

Click to expand...

The 17/f2.8 lens is quite slow. I'd like to get the 25/f0.95 but I'm reluctant to go MF without trying it out first. The VF-2 would help there, probably. Ideally, somebody introduces a very fast 25mm with AF.

The f2.8 means I have to climb into the high ISO frequently. Working in B&W mainly, I don't mind the noise even at ISO6400, but I prefer staying in the safer regions of 1600 or lower if possible. A faster lens just gives me more choice.

fieofieo said:

GENERAL: of course, i've compared the E-P1 to other cameras, but what's your personal recommendation (staying at a similar price and quality 'level')?

Click to expand...

I bought one, that's my evaluation of the E-P1. At €440 with the 17/f2.8 + VF-1, it is a steal. It's the first non-compact digital camera that made me go wow when handling it: it's a joy. It has all the best of digital cameras (enormous flexibility in several respects) and analogue cameras (doesn't feel like a huge plastic monster or a creaky plastic toy). Limitations ? Sure. Show me any camera that doesn't have them. It just comes down to which choice you want to make.

Peter.

--
gallery at http://picasaweb.google.com/peterleyssens
NAP (Nearly a PAD (Photo a Day)) at http://nap.techwriter.be

Wow, so many answers - Thanks everyone!

I've just flipped through some of the sample shots (especially high ISO) and I'm glad to say that this camera absolutely satisfies my needs.

I never had a professional DSLR set-up anyway, so in terms of quality: that's enough for me! .-)

Now, I think there's three remaining points I have to get clear about:

1.) VF-1: First: although I'm aware of the lack of 'functions' and the cropped view, I'm planning to get one. It's been the way I'm taking photographs for many years now and I'd be happy to keep that possibility for some situations when already paying that amount of money.

Now: is it possible to shoot mainly via the VF-1 and turn the LCD on/off whenever I need to change a setting (or could you easily shoot with the VF-1 and change the settings 'blindfolded' by using the joysticks)? And: how quickly can you turn the LCD on and off?

2.) LCD Sun: Does this mean that you're not able to use it in daylight situations or really under !direct! sunlight? I could probably get along with this limitation.

3.) Lens: After having decided on the 14-42 kit at first, I'm beginning to think of different lenses. Is there a good alternative to the 14-42 M.Zuiko? Ideally with a similar zoom range (and price ,-).

And: is there anybody around who can tell about his experiences (concrete situations e.g.) from shooting with a prime lens for the first time? I see the point with the better quality (and the nice handiness!), but I'm somewhat worried about not using the camera as much as I'm planning to because of a fixed focal length.

Every answer appreciated,
All the best!

Hi Fieofieo

fieofieo said:

1.) VF-1: It's been the way I'm taking photographs for many years now and I'd be happy to keep that possibility for some situations when already paying that amount of money.

Click to expand...

Of course, if you're used to external optical viewfinders, that's a different matter.

fieofieo said:

Now: is it possible to shoot mainly via the VF-1 and turn the LCD on/off whenever I need to change a setting? And: how quickly can you turn the LCD on and off?

Click to expand...

Just reprogram FN to toggle the LCD. As quick as one button press.

I found a disadvantage is that you don't know where the camera focuses. Even if you set the focus to a single point in the middle, you won't know if your subject is in the middle because the VF-1 doesn't indicate the middle.

fieofieo said:

2.) LCD Sun: Does this mean that you're not able to use it in daylight situations or really under !direct! sunlight? I could probably get along with this limitation.

Click to expand...

Bright daylight. You see less and less as it gets brighter. It's a simple matter of the LCD backlight trying to be brighter than the ambient light. As the daylight gets brighter, the LCD gets relatively dimmer. But, as I said, I personally don't mind, as long as I can just recognise a few lines here and there and frame. I know what the photo will look like anyway.

fieofieo said:

3.) Lens: After having decided on the 14-42 kit at first, I'm beginning to think of different lenses. Is there a good alternative to the 14-42 M.Zuiko? Ideally with a similar zoom range (and price ,-).

Click to expand...

Similar zoom range: the Panasonic 14-45. I read there's a second version that's been cheaped down, so you may want to get the old one off an auction site.

fieofieo said:

And: is there anybody around who can tell about his experiences (concrete situations e.g.) from shooting with a prime lens for the first time? I see the point with the better quality (and the nice handiness!), but I'm somewhat worried about not using the camera as much as I'm planning to because of a fixed focal length.

Click to expand...

I can't tell you about shooting with a prime lens for the first time, because that would be the first time I handled a camera. And all the times after that until I got my first zoom, which sucked, so then I stuck with primes for a long time after that, too.

You have to look at primes in a positive way: they don't limit you, but they force you to consider what you want first, instead of staring at the LCD, zooming in and out until you find something that looks okay. My work is usually much more moving left-right and up-down until I find a good position for all the part of the photo. If I don't, then I just don't make the photo. It doesn't take too long until you look at a scene and you know what will be in your photo with a certain framing: your eye will become trained (unconsciously) to say: oh, too big, or oh, too far away and too small. Then, photography actually becomes a lot easier: just leave the camera until you know what will work, then double check on the screen if it really works and make the photo if everything is as you wanted.

The fun then becomes the hunt for subjects. To get rid of my silly touristy habits, I decided to make photos of hedges, fences and gates on my most recent trip. After staring at a few gates for a while, I got the hang of it and I hope I can publish my series in a few weeks' time.

Peter.

--
gallery at http://picasaweb.google.com/peterleyssens
NAP (Nearly a PAD (Photo a Day)) at http://nap.techwriter.be

Thanks Peter, very inspiring post! I really begin to believe that the view finder / LCD issue isn't going to stop me from buying this camera.

As to the prime lens: do you happen to have an uploaded set of images shot on the same day using the same (prime) lens? I'm already searching the web for something like that. It would be nice to get an better insight into the way the photographer using the prime lens is able to "see" and "capture" different situations and motifs.

All the best.

I own/use this configuration infrequently. I bought the EVF-1 thinking it would work well enough, but find that I barely use it! I am finding the lcd viewfinder works well enough...even in bright light though I know that others will disagree with me.

I find myself searching the screen for clues as to what's on it in bright light and am able to see enough to guess where things are. NOT the best solution, but better than the EVF ..... for me anyway.

I was using the viewer with my 14-42 lens and guessing about where the lens was. I expect that if I had had EXIF info in the EVF, I would miss it terribly, but since it's not something I'm used to, I don't miss it.

What else are bugs in the EPL-1? Hmmmm....I know that people say that the lack of a wheel is a real 'downer,' but again, not having had one, I don't miss it....you don't miss what you haven't experienced. So, if you've not had a camera with a wheel to select ISO, F-stop, etc., you probably won't miss it. I find that the 'Start' button with live control works pretty well for me.

I bought the ePL-1 for it's wonderfully good price thinking that when something newer and better arrived, I could sell the 1 and upgrade quite easily and in the meantime, I could begin collecting lenses and start learning the sytem. So, the whole set-up is a compromise for me from the get-go!
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Don't get an E-P1 unless you have compared its price with the E-Pl1 from what I see on our comparator, the E-P1 + 14-42 can cost somewhat more than the E-Pl1 + 14-42mm zoom. But with the E-Pl1 you save the possibility to add the VF2 later. witht the E-P1 you can only use the VF1 and from what people are stating here you won't use it much.

E-P1 prices : http://www.toppreise.ch/index.php?k3=2447&offset=0&manu=65&filter=E-P1&o=pa

E-Pl1 prices : http://www.toppreise.ch/index.php?k3=2447&o=pa&offset=0&manu=65&filter=E-Pl1

Personnally, I'm disturbed by the bright sun on the lcd. This is partly due to the fact that I'm often using it with MF legacy lenses, but even with MFT lenses I get annoyed by the sun. The rare time I tried to shot inspite of the sun, the framing was a catastrophe and some highlights often got blown out. Leaving only a black white hole in the picture. With a better articulated lcd or a viewfinder I'd have avoide it.

Now of course, if you like the shape and style of the of the E-PP1/2 like me and hate the look of the E-Pl1, then that also a point to consider. But don't put too much hope in the VF1, nor in the capabilities of the lcd to overcome bright sun situations.

fieofieo said:

Wow, so many answers - Thanks everyone!

I've just flipped through some of the sample shots (especially high ISO) and I'm glad to say that this camera absolutely satisfies my needs.

I never had a professional DSLR set-up anyway, so in terms of quality: that's enough for me! .-)

Now, I think there's three remaining points I have to get clear about:

1.) VF-1: First: although I'm aware of the lack of 'functions' and the cropped view, I'm planning to get one. It's been the way I'm taking photographs for many years now and I'd be happy to keep that possibility for some situations when already paying that amount of money.

Now: is it possible to shoot mainly via the VF-1 and turn the LCD on/off whenever I need to change a setting (or could you easily shoot with the VF-1 and change the settings 'blindfolded' by using the joysticks)? And: how quickly can you turn the LCD on and off?

2.) LCD Sun: Does this mean that you're not able to use it in daylight situations or really under !direct! sunlight? I could probably get along with this limitation.

3.) Lens: After having decided on the 14-42 kit at first, I'm beginning to think of different lenses. Is there a good alternative to the 14-42 M.Zuiko? Ideally with a similar zoom range (and price ,-).

And: is there anybody around who can tell about his experiences (concrete situations e.g.) from shooting with a prime lens for the first time? I see the point with the better quality (and the nice handiness!), but I'm somewhat worried about not using the camera as much as I'm planning to because of a fixed focal length.

Every answer appreciated,
All the best!

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rrr_hhh

You'll hear lots of useful opinions, but I think you'll need to play with some cameras to figure out what will work best for you. That said...

fieofieo said:

my favourite's been the E-P1...i'm still sort of worrying about the !practicability of the EP-1.

1) if you're using the optical VF-1: how annoying do you find it NOT to have any information (aperture,shutter,...) when looking through the view finder...to make it clear: i'm not planning to buy the VF-2.

2.) is it possible to use the 14-42 kit lens, zoom in at 17 and use the VF-1?

3.) what's the #1 thorn in your side when thinking of using the E-P1 in everyday life?

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I have/had EP1, G1 & GF1.

I find an EVF essential outdoors. I can't see the screen well enough in bright light to be comfortable framing, focusing or checking exposure.

As has been said, the EP1 can't use the VF2 EVF, there is no EVF option.

The VF1 helps you approximately framing for either the 17/2.8 or 14-42 (at approx 17mm) quickly and easily in bright light. I'd rather use the VF1 and 17/2.8 on an EP1 outdoors than try to use the LCD screen, but I'd much rather use something else with an EVF.

Aside from having no EVF option, I find the EP1 interface when using legacy mf lenses very clunky and frustrating. Magnified view is only available with the screen in "green box" mode, but in green box mode the ISO/WB/etc buttons no longer function. You can't confirm focus and adjust exposure quickly in MF mode, and the extensive button-clicking leads to lost time/opportunity.

Don't get me wrong, the EP1 is still miles ahead of Sony NEX, but Pany's interface is much better implemented IMHO.

Because of these limitations I no longer use the EP1 "in everyday life," it's mostly an indoor-only camera that gets used for product shots, or when I need a backup indoor camera.

If you can live with the EP1 LCD screen outdoors, you'll probably be very happy overall, especially if you're not planning to use legacy mf lenses. If you need an EVF, even it you can't afford one now, an EPL1 or EP2 would be a better choice. Price-wise, if you don't need video and don't mind the looks/size, the Pany G1 might be a good solution.

Keep in mind that any Oly/Pany body w/external EVF will sit taller than a Pany G1-style body, taking up as much or more room in your bag.