E-20p images soft

C Rennie

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I seam to be getting soft images from my e-20p

The image is cropped down to 800x600 and viewed at 100% in photoshop and i think that the images are a tad soft



Original image TIFF
EXP Time 1/125s
F Number F8.0
ISO 80
Focal lenth 36mm set to macro
distance from keys enough

i only really saw that it was a tad soft after i printed some A4 prints and i know its not the printer.

I wondered i someone else could post a cropped image to show at 100% to show how sharp their images are.

THX

Craig Rennie
 
I seam to be getting soft images from my e-20p

The image is cropped down to 800x600 and viewed at 100% in
photoshop and i think that the images are a tad soft



Original image TIFF
EXP Time 1/125s
F Number F8.0
ISO 80
Focal lenth 36mm set to macro
distance from keys enough

i only really saw that it was a tad soft after i printed some A4
prints and i know its not the printer.

I wondered i someone else could post a cropped image to show at
100% to show how sharp their images are.>
Joe Peoples writes:

Did you sharpen the image with USM after resizing?
 
Even in the name of science I will not take a TIFF. I did however take an SHQ (full rez, 1:2.7). 1/125, f8, 36mm (I think you are only supposed to set it to macro if youhave the Mcon on).

I had a 500w hotlight camera right and filled with built in TTL.

Here is a reduced, and the full size is at pbase. Follow this link to the full size. The full size is directly out of the camera. No levels, USM, curves, nothing. EXACTLY how it came out. Just changed the name. In camera I have contrast and sharpening set to low.

http://www.pbase.com/image/6173168



Adjust it how you like to get the test to match. Sorry 'bout the JPG, though. I wouldn't do a TIFF for my dying grandmother, I wont shoot one for you.

GageFX
I seam to be getting soft images from my e-20p

The image is cropped down to 800x600 and viewed at 100% in
photoshop and i think that the images are a tad soft



Original image TIFF
EXP Time 1/125s
F Number F8.0
ISO 80
Focal lenth 36mm set to macro
distance from keys enough

i only really saw that it was a tad soft after i printed some A4
prints and i know its not the printer.

I wondered i someone else could post a cropped image to show at
100% to show how sharp their images are.

THX

Craig Rennie
 
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking "sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
 
Gage,

You don't shoot in TIFF? What do you set your camera at typically for indoor portraits, landscapes? What gives the clearest higest quality image?

Thanks,
Sharon Rentz
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking
"sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I
believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be
sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
 
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking
"sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I
believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be
sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
 
I try to stay away from all things evil and TIFF is certainly of the Devil.

I shoot almost all SHQ now. Client work and personal work. I used to shoot RAW for pro work and rarely do now. RAW is better than TIFF. TIFF is directly from Satan's workshop.

Are you clear on how much I hate TIFF?

GageFX
You don't shoot in TIFF? What do you set your camera at typically
for indoor portraits, landscapes? What gives the clearest higest
quality image?

Thanks,
Sharon Rentz
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking
"sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I
believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be
sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
--
 
Gage,

I'm sensing that you are not a TIFF guy...do you do the SHQ at the preset compression or do you change it?

As always, thanks for your wise advice.

Sharon
I shoot almost all SHQ now. Client work and personal work. I used
to shoot RAW for pro work and rarely do now. RAW is better than
TIFF. TIFF is directly from Satan's workshop.

Are you clear on how much I hate TIFF?

GageFX
You don't shoot in TIFF? What do you set your camera at typically
for indoor portraits, landscapes? What gives the clearest higest
quality image?

Thanks,
Sharon Rentz
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking
"sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I
believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be
sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
--
--
Sharon Rentz
 
I changed my settings but I think my SHQ is what comes preset.

I believe I included my settings in the above post. Full res (whatever that is, I try not to remember irrelevant numbers) and 1:2.7 compression.

I tried to shoot TIFF a couple of times. I know that the second time I shot in TIFF I ended up just pulling the batteries instead of waiting for the images to process. Crazy, maybe, but I'm getting old and dont have time to wait for TIFF.

GageFX
I'm sensing that you are not a TIFF guy...do you do the SHQ at the
preset compression or do you change it?

As always, thanks for your wise advice.

Sharon
I shoot almost all SHQ now. Client work and personal work. I used
to shoot RAW for pro work and rarely do now. RAW is better than
TIFF. TIFF is directly from Satan's workshop.

Are you clear on how much I hate TIFF?

GageFX
You don't shoot in TIFF? What do you set your camera at typically
for indoor portraits, landscapes? What gives the clearest higest
quality image?

Thanks,
Sharon Rentz
My first thought that yours was out of focus instead of lacking
"sharpness". After looking at your image again compared to mine, I
believe I was as close as possible for the focus to actually be
sharp without the MCon. I think maybe you were too close.

Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
--
--
Sharon Rentz
 
Hi Gage

Is your antipathy towards TIFF solely related to in-camera processing time or is there some deeper seated hatred to do with image quality. : #

Rgds

Paul
I tried to shoot TIFF a couple of times. I know that the second
time I shot in TIFF I ended up just pulling the batteries instead
of waiting for the images to process. Crazy, maybe, but I'm getting
old and dont have time to wait for TIFF.

GageFX
--



http://www.btinternet.com/~djfalse/Introduction/index.htm
 
Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
Could it possibly be that the E-10 is sharper than the E-20. I own an E10 now and am very happy about the sharpness and resolution. I would like to replace it with a E20 but have heard people saying that the E10 has the slight edge in image quality, is that true?
 
The former. And the large file sizes.

Are you kidding? I LOVE image quality. No hatred. :)

GageFX
Is your antipathy towards TIFF solely related to in-camera
processing time or is there some deeper seated hatred to do with
image quality. : #

Rgds

Paul
I tried to shoot TIFF a couple of times. I know that the second
time I shot in TIFF I ended up just pulling the batteries instead
of waiting for the images to process. Crazy, maybe, but I'm getting
old and dont have time to wait for TIFF.

GageFX
--



http://www.btinternet.com/~djfalse/Introduction/index.htm
 
Why do you want to replace it? Longer write times? Not much difference between 4 and 5 MP. Do you think you would use prog scan mode much?

GageFX
Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
Could it possibly be that the E-10 is sharper than the E-20. I own
an E10 now and am very happy about the sharpness and resolution. I
would like to replace it with a E20 but have heard people saying
that the E10 has the slight edge in image quality, is that true?
 
I have both and would say that the E20 has the edge in my pair. The difference is not particularly noticeable, though. I would not use it as a descriminator. It is likely that camera to camera variations are comparable.
Also, just for accuracy, I have an E-10, not E-20.

GageFX
Could it possibly be that the E-10 is sharper than the E-20. I own
an E10 now and am very happy about the sharpness and resolution. I
would like to replace it with a E20 but have heard people saying
that the E10 has the slight edge in image quality, is that true?
 
Agree with gagefx in general terms. SHQ jpeg (at 1:2.7) is generally considered to be very close (indistinguishable in most cases) from TIFF. Only RAW might gain you a little advantage in quality. With respect to macro mode, it is also used with the standard E-xx zoom lens to facilitate AF when within the close range. As noted here you may have been a little too close to the subject, though, even in macro mode.
I had a 500w hotlight camera right and filled with built in TTL.

Here is a reduced, and the full size is at pbase. Follow this link
to the full size. The full size is directly out of the camera. No
levels, USM, curves, nothing. EXACTLY how it came out. Just changed
the name. In camera I have contrast and sharpening set to low.

http://www.pbase.com/image/6173168



Adjust it how you like to get the test to match. Sorry 'bout the
JPG, though. I wouldn't do a TIFF for my dying grandmother, I wont
shoot one for you.

GageFX
I seam to be getting soft images from my e-20p

The image is cropped down to 800x600 and viewed at 100% in
photoshop and i think that the images are a tad soft



Original image TIFF
EXP Time 1/125s
F Number F8.0
ISO 80
Focal lenth 36mm set to macro
distance from keys enough

i only really saw that it was a tad soft after i printed some A4
prints and i know its not the printer.

I wondered i someone else could post a cropped image to show at
100% to show how sharp their images are.

THX

Craig Rennie
--
Garry

Garry's Page: http://www3.mb.sympatico.ca/~gschaef
 
In the E-10 manual, under "Troubleshooting" on page 186 on finds the statement: If you are within 20-60 cm from the subject, the macro mark (little flower) should be displayed in the control panel." Back on page under "How the autofocus operates" it states that "with the marcro mode mark (or conversion lens mark displayed in the control panel, focusing is performed only with the CCD." That indicated that the IR system is turned off at close range so as to avoid conflict introduced by parallax between the two systems, as I understand it. Hope this helps. Should be the same for the E-20
With respect to macro mode, it is also used with the
standard E-xx zoom lens to facilitate AF when within the close
range.
I did not know that. Thanks. Is that in the manual?

GageFX
--
Garry

Garry's Page: http://www3.mb.sympatico.ca/~gschaef
 
That all makes sense. I was thinking there was another macro mode aside from turning off the IR. I've had my IR off forever. (I also haven't had any idea where my manual is in forever.)

Thanks.

GageFX
With respect to macro mode, it is also used with the
standard E-xx zoom lens to facilitate AF when within the close
range.
I did not know that. Thanks. Is that in the manual?

GageFX
--
Garry

Garry's Page: http://www3.mb.sympatico.ca/~gschaef
 
A couple of thoughts for what its worth,

Firstly, after pretty extensive tests on my E20 (albeit taking landscapes - not macro shots), I find my E20 images degrade in sharpness over f5.6. By the time you get to f11, they are really soft. I therefore very rarely go over f5.6 and can definitely see a difference between f5.6 and f8. Havent a clue if this is the same on the macro setting. I can see it being a pain at macro as this limitation will give a limited dof.

The sweet spot is in the middle aperture range. At lower f numbers you start to see chromic abberrations at the edges of images taken into the light (tree branches etc). I saw this reported here a while back and am starting to agree. For landscapes then I am pretty much locked on f5.6 and always lug a tripod round with me.

Secondly with my E20 set to 'soft', every image needs sharpening in PS. Levels of sharpening depend on size of image (if kept on the screen) or if you print it. Be very careful about sharpening an image at full size and then reducing down to 800*600. You have to resharpen (or best dont sharpen until after reducing). I am still not expert at sharpening and find that different people have different views on what is good. What I do know though is that you must sharpen after reducing.

There is no way my E20 gives 'good' pictures straight out of the camera, but with 60 seconds worth of curves and USM in PS I think they are 'great' images (even if the composition sometimes is lacking!!!!!!).
I seam to be getting soft images from my e-20p

The image is cropped down to 800x600 and viewed at 100% in
photoshop and i think that the images are a tad soft
--
Dr Bob

Gallery: http://www.gm0eco.com
Scottish Castles in the Gallery
 

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