Little help for a new GF1/Silkypix user please..

Hi Richard,

I got the Sandisk 8GB Extreme Class 10 and compared it against the Sandisk 8GB Ultra class 6.

To test it I put the camera on manual exposure, 1/500th of a second and manual focus. I left the lens cap on and then fired 3 shots using low burst rate. With the Ultra card it took approx 14 seconds after the last shot to clear the buffer. With the Extreme it took about 8 seconds. You really didn't need a stop watch to see the class 10 card was almost twice as fast as the class 6.

Howard
 
Tom
I agree with you
I am also doing the RAW only route.
I dropped the Jpeg and dowloading it.
I have in this way to worry about only one set of files (the raw files only)

that I will develop to my linking using Silkypix. This will have to be saved as a jpeg.

At least I am sure that I will be using all the information the camera is capable of capturing and has indeed captured. And the Raw file is still there if I wish to redo it again (which will never happen he he :-) )
The JPeg is a compressed format and an altered data from original.

Emile
 
By comparison, the nikon system will allow you to take a raw (NEF) image, and shoot it in any of the settings, and the resulting image will show up in all the Nikon imaging software. You can even change the "in-camera" settings in Nikon View, or CaptureNX after the fact.
Pentax software (which is based on Silkypix) does exactly the same thing.

--
Cheers

Trevor G

http://www.computerwyse.com
 
Panasonic gives you a RAW image off the sensor, with NO post processing done whatsoever. This is regardless of the raw settings in camera. I noticed this the first time I used it, and I questioned it too.
Sorry, Anthony, but there is no such thing. Or no such things .

Secondly, there are no RAW settings in camera - RAW is either on or off.

Firstly, all RAW data actually is processed in the camera, firstly by the analogue signal amplifier, then the analogue to digital converter, then in the processing engine itself to produce image data.

The most important aspect of this processing is probably the colour information - each manufacturer is at liberty to provide his own interpretation of how he "sees" each colour or hue. That is why the RAW from a Panasonic camera has different colours to the RAW from an Olympus camera, even when you use the same lens on each, and the same processing software.

One major advantage of Silkypix is that it uses the same software, the same interface, to process both RAW and JPEG images.

What's more, with Silkypix you can never alter or deteriorate in any way, the original image, no matter how many times you change the way it looks, or even when you save the results of your manipulation. It is always saved as another file.

--
Cheers

Trevor G

http://www.computerwyse.com
 
The JPeg is a compressed format and an altered data from original.
That is correct, but you won't normally see the results of jpeg compression in the output of a panasonic camera!

There is very little performance difference between jpeg and RAW these days, according to dpreview and my own testing.

Shoot a few RAW+ images and then open them in Silkypix. You have to work hard to spot the differences (which mainly show up in low light areas).

--
Cheers

Trevor G

http://photo.computerwyse.com
 
Ah, but with RAW you can change the WB and the exposure in PP. I'll agree a well exposed jpg and a well exposed RAW would be hard to see the difference in them. I for one don't always get well exposed images unless I have the time. Subjects don't wait on you.

Howard
 
Regarding SilkyPix opening RW2 files using the camera's settings, my experience with SP is that some features, such as White Balance, do import the camera's settings. Under the White Balance pull-down menu there's a header for Camera Setting.

However, most others don't, for instance if I set the camera to Dynamic B/W film mode and shoot RW2, the RW2 files still open in color, and there's no "camera setting" under the Color pull-down menu.

Joe
 
Regarding SilkyPix opening RW2 files using the camera's settings, my experience with SP is that some features, such as White Balance, do import the camera's settings. Under the White Balance pull-down menu there's a header for Camera Setting.
The only way to simulate the camera settings is for some enthusiast to experiment and create a set of custom Tastes for each Film type that Panasonic uses. Anybody? Not me. I prefer to grab each image and twiddle to personal taste, so they are all differently treated.
However, most others don't, for instance if I set the camera to Dynamic B/W film mode and shoot RW2, the RW2 files still open in color, and there's no "camera setting" under the Color pull-down menu.
Well, there's one Taste that can be made and canned as your custom Dynamic B&W Taste. Use any full colour jpeg or RAW and try this method found on my LX3 web page.....
..............quote.............................

One of the favourite methods in the [Panasonic Talk] forum for dynamic B/W seems to be what I recommended using Silkypix. It works with any RAW or jpeg file if you buy the full version of Silkypix, otherwise the free SE version only with the jpegs or RAW from Panasonic RAW capable cameras.

♦ Open a full colour jpeg or RAW file.
♦ Set colour temperature way to right 90000K.
♦ Set Colour to Monochrome 2.

♦ Set Contrast to Strongest Contrast or use the 4 manual controls to set Contrast to maximum, and slide the Contrast Centre, Gamma and Black Level until you get something you like.

Fiddling with that gave me some nice dramatic B/W effects, but of course it's a taste thing and you need appropriate source images as well. Don't try and understand the loopy Silkypix manual, it's way easier to experiment with all the buttons and menu items and see what works. You can output 16 bit tiff from Silkypix to experiment further in Photoshop etc. Some Silkypix links here. http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~parsog/silkypix/s01-menu.html
..................unquote............................

Have fun!

Regards............ Guy
 
Hi,

I'd like to know what foks use as a base set up on the GF1. My picture look great on the LCD, but neither RAW or jpg look good on my computer, especially in Silkypix. So maybe it's my camera set up not making the most out of the image.
Howard
I'm in the exact situation as you, word for word. Will be listening with interest.
 
After spending some time with Silkypix and not wanting to pay to upgrade my CS2 to the latest iteration in order to get a RAW converter that worked well, I tried a trial version of Photoshop Elements 8. It worked really well for me and they have a $30 discount right now bringing it down to $69.00. Reasonable price for a nice piece of software and an excellent RAW converter not only for the GF1, but many other cameras.

Howard

The batch RAW converter is quick and easy and the UI display is normal compared to what I was seeing on Silkypix.
Hi,

I'd like to know what foks use as a base set up on the GF1. My picture look great on the LCD, but neither RAW or jpg look good on my computer, especially in Silkypix. So maybe it's my camera set up not making the most out of the image.
Howard
I'm in the exact situation as you, word for word. Will be listening with interest.
 
After spending some time with Silkypix and not wanting to pay to upgrade my CS2 to the latest iteration in order to get a RAW converter that worked well, I tried a trial version of Photoshop Elements 8. It worked really well for me and they have a $30 discount right now bringing it down to $69.00. Reasonable price for a nice piece of software and an excellent RAW converter not only for the GF1, but many other cameras.

Howard

The batch RAW converter is quick and easy and the UI display is normal compared to what I was seeing on Silkypix.
Hi,

I'd like to know what foks use as a base set up on the GF1. My picture look great on the LCD, but neither RAW or jpg look good on my computer, especially in Silkypix. So maybe it's my camera set up not making the most out of the image.
Howard
I'm in the exact situation as you, word for word. Will be listening with interest.
Good to hear. I don't want to upgrade my CS3 either. Are you setting your camera "flat" then with no NR, no sharpening, and no contrast?
 
That would go a long way towards giving clues as to the problems you're experiencing.

My main gripes with the GF-1 are Panasonic jpeg color rendering (problem solved: I only shoot RAW with my GF-1 and LX3), and lower DR compared to my Nikon D700.

I'm actually quite satisfied with the GF1 image quality as long as I shoot RAW.
 
I set it +1 for contrast. Of course that only affects the jpg. I shot RAW + jpg so it only affects the jpg's.

I consider PS Elements to be a good deal at $69, which I think is half od what the full version of SP is.

Howard
Good to hear. I don't want to upgrade my CS3 either. Are you setting your camera "flat" then with no NR, no sharpening, and no contrast?
 
I also have elements and took advantage of the deal some time ago.

However, never bothered to use it, Tried to use what was suggested by Pana i.e Silkypix.

I am convinced that whatever we set in camera is taken into the RAW file.

I am shooting RAW only as discussed earlier. For the time being would like to stay with one software till I get to its full potential so to speak. Or perhaps should say to the limit of my skill with it.

Changing software for me would be a new learning curve, am delaying this, he he ... :-)
Be well
Emile
 

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