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Infrared Carolina Trunk, E-PL1 Full Spectrum Conversion

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James M Hilliard

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The image was taken with an Olympus E-PL1 PEN full spectrum converted camera, an Olympus 14-150 m 4/3 lens with a B+W 090 590nm filter (Goldie) around 8am this morning.

I have to admit that I REALLY LIKE the E-PL1/14-150mm m 4/3 combination. It makes for a great carry around system that is functional in all color modes (UV/Normal Color/Infrared) with just a simple lens filter change!

This image is a little different. I processed in normal Faux IR tones, but modified the Trunk and foreground rocks to high contrast B&W in order to give the image a dimension to pull the viewer in. I made the attempt at framing the trunk between the 2 docks across the pond.

I have put a detailed description of the post processing of this image on my blog (Below).

I am very happy with this one.

--
Mark Hilliard

Gallery: http://www.TheLensWorkGallery.com
Blog: http://www.infraredatelier.Wordpress.com
IR Web http://www.InfraredAtelier.com
 
Looks nice.

The conversion you are talking about removes the hot mirror and AA filter? Sounds interesting.

--
kw
http://www.thealamoproject.com/
http://www.pbase.com/kwhite
James M Hilliard said:
The image was taken with an Olympus E-PL1 PEN full spectrum converted camera, an Olympus 14-150 m 4/3 lens with a B+W 090 590nm filter (Goldie) around 8am this morning.

I have to admit that I REALLY LIKE the E-PL1/14-150mm m 4/3 combination. It makes for a great carry around system that is functional in all color modes (UV/Normal Color/Infrared) with just a simple lens filter change!

This image is a little different. I processed in normal Faux IR tones, but modified the Trunk and foreground rocks to high contrast B&W in order to give the image a dimension to pull the viewer in. I made the attempt at framing the trunk between the 2 docks across the pond.

I have put a detailed description of the post processing of this image on my blog (Below).

I am very happy with this one.

--
Mark Hilliard

Gallery: http://www.TheLensWorkGallery.com
Blog: http://www.infraredatelier.Wordpress.com
IR Web http://www.InfraredAtelier.com
Click to expand...
 
Very nice! I also had a read through your blog and have bookmarked it. Some useful info there.

I'm starting to dabble in IR photography lately, and am wondering how you manage to keep the yellows in the shot for the foliage?

With the r72 filter I am using, I am able to retain red and blue colour information, but can not seem to bring out any yellows.
Am I missing something, or is it a different kind of filter I need?

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/memoki/
 
James

Please can I enquire of the IR conversion itself; was this undertaken professionally and if so are you pleased with the company concerned?

I am considering converting to IR either an EP-1 or Olympus E-420.

Paul
 
  1. 1 - I like the shot and the way it was developed - even though my general preference for IR shots is B&W, the color seems to work on this one.
  2. 2 - I have visited Spencer's site several times and considered getting a camera dedicated to IR. Could you explain the type of conversion you got on the Pen, what's the difference in the different types and why you preferred this one?
Thanks for the info,
Steve
 
I'm very happy with the E-520 IR conversion Spencer's Camera did for me two years ago (830nm). I thought the dust-shaker and live-view made the 520 a 'natural' for IR-only work

And I expect a mirrorless camera should work even better for me, which is why I'm currently waiting once again (patiently....) for Clarence to convert the E-p1 I sent him, again with the 830nm filter.

Currently, I keep a picture on my E-520 of a spread-sheet of hyper-focal distances (taped to my garage wall). Using my 'cheat sheet' and the measurements I've notched into my homemade staff/mono-pod, I measure back from a saguaro and use a single AF touch to set my focus. I shoot raw exclusively and use a modified version of ufraw/dcraw for conversion (my other love is programming).

If OLY would offer a software update to provde a function to set a lens to its hyperfocal distance, I'd assign it to a button and feel I had the perfect IR landscape camera (well, ok, I'll buy the 1st mirrorless full-frame to come out just to have it converted too :) ).

As a potential IR 'darkie', you may be interested in these links -

http://khromagery.com.au/ir_raw.html
http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/infrared/index.html
http://irphotocom.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gear

The popularity of IR work with dedicated cameras seems to be picking up, which is good (maybe I'll get the hyperfocal function! ), but the demand may also be burying the few businesses that do the conversions, hence the waiting (patience...)

My first IR camera was a Fujifilm FinePix S3 Pro UVIR.
 
Hyperfocal might not be hyperfocal it comes to IR light thought would be the problem. I could see the use for a present like that, but if they did it for visible, when you shot IR and had the focus shift, it would be off, so you'd still need to focus each shot.

Heck of a lot easier with a CDAF system though. I shoot an IR modded Nikon DSLR and while the images are great, every lens I use requires a bit of a shift and the optical viewfinder certainly isn't much help there
 
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