GF1 Auto ISO What A JOKE!

If you're going to pretend you know better than the camera experts, at least learn the difference between focus and motion blur, otherwise you come off as a fool.
Who are you talking about? Your message subject "from the guy who ..." implies its you who doesn't know what focus means, but I don't think thats what you meant to write?
 
Wait are you complaining about the shutter speed being too low, or the aperture being too low (thus causing narrow DOF)?

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http://www.flickr.com/photos/PanHChan/

I want to pic the f-stop, I want the auto ISO to pick a fast enough shutter speed for a hand held shot. The camera seems to think 1/15 to 1/30 of a second is fast enough, for a 40 mm lens. It's not, as can be seen by the countless OOF images posted on the Web for the past couple of months. The ISO should be jumping up to 400-800, at least and it's choosing 100-160, most times.
Lol. So the camera has to gues, when YOU hold the camera, what shutter speed will be best to stop motion from camera shake. Good luck.
I'm not sure about the OP, but I want to TELL the camera what shuuter speed is necessary to stop motion, and then have it up the ISO as necessary.
I understand that in manual mode that Auto ISO doesn't work in the GF1. If its that big of a dealbreaker, then don't buy the camera.
 
Wait are you complaining about the shutter speed being too low, or the aperture being too low (thus causing narrow DOF)?

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/PanHChan/

I want to pic the f-stop, I want the auto ISO to pick a fast enough shutter speed for a hand held shot. The camera seems to think 1/15 to 1/30 of a second is fast enough, for a 40 mm lens. It's not, as can be seen by the countless OOF images posted on the Web for the past couple of months. The ISO should be jumping up to 400-800, at least and it's choosing 100-160, most times.
Lol. So the camera has to gues, when YOU hold the camera, what shutter speed will be best to stop motion from camera shake. Good luck.
I'm not sure about the OP, but I want to TELL the camera what shuuter speed is necessary to stop motion, and then have it up the ISO as necessary.
I understand that in manual mode that Auto ISO doesn't work in the GF1. If its that big of a dealbreaker, then don't buy the camera.
I already own the camera, but I don't mind if auto-iso works in manual mode or not, I'd just like to be able to set the min shutter speed to something other than the 1/30s that panasonic has set it to. (thats how auto iso works on the D700 for example).
 
Wait are you complaining about the shutter speed being too low, or the aperture being too low (thus causing narrow DOF)?

--
http://www.flickr.com/photos/PanHChan/

I want to pic the f-stop, I want the auto ISO to pick a fast enough shutter speed for a hand held shot. The camera seems to think 1/15 to 1/30 of a second is fast enough, for a 40 mm lens. It's not, as can be seen by the countless OOF images posted on the Web for the past couple of months. The ISO should be jumping up to 400-800, at least and it's choosing 100-160, most times.
Lol. So the camera has to gues, when YOU hold the camera, what shutter speed will be best to stop motion from camera shake. Good luck.
I'm not sure about the OP, but I want to TELL the camera what shuuter speed is necessary to stop motion, and then have it up the ISO as necessary.
While I have a G1, I understand that the algorithms are the same as in the GF1.

So with the 20mm lens in dodgy light, I choose auto ISO and Shutter priority, which I set to 1/50th. The the aperture is set to f1.7 and the ISO rises to the limit I've set of 800. When the light is slightly better, I set shutter to 1/100!

As I say, it works for me!

Mike
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Mike Davis
Photographing the public for over 50 years
http://www.flickr.com/photos/watchman
 
While I have a G1, I understand that the algorithms are the same as in the GF1.

So with the 20mm lens in dodgy light, I choose auto ISO and Shutter priority, which I set to 1/50th. The the aperture is set to f1.7 and the ISO rises to the limit I've set of 800. When the light is slightly better, I set shutter to 1/100!
Thats a great work around, but its not perfect, the camera will drop the aperture way down as soon as there is enough light.

The whole point of aperture priority is that you choose the aperture, not the camera. Ideally auto-iso can then help you out and raise the ISO if the shutter is dropping too low to use the aperture you've chosen.
 
I read the manual with my new G10. If you switch to M, you can pick your shutter speed and f/stop and it will choose the proper ISO. Does yours not operate this way?
No, the GF1 doesn't appear to operate that way. I can't enable auto-iso in manual mode (I can only pick a specific ISO setting)
Well I just tried M on my new G10 and it doesn't allow auto-ISO either, so that is a misprint in the manual. However, in P mode you can actually accomplish this as it allows you to adjust both aperture and ss while keeping auto iso.
 
I read the manual with my new G10. If you switch to M, you can pick your shutter speed and f/stop and it will choose the proper ISO. Does yours not operate this way?
No, the GF1 doesn't appear to operate that way. I can't enable auto-iso in manual mode (I can only pick a specific ISO setting)
Well I just tried M on my new G10 and it doesn't allow auto-ISO either, so that is a misprint in the manual. However, in P mode you can actually accomplish this as it allows you to adjust both aperture and ss while keeping auto iso.
Damn manuals :)

I have to admit I have no idea how P mode works. I just tried it - can you explain, how does one set the aperture, and how does one set the shutter, in P mode?

The dial doesn't appear to change either in P mode for me.
 
My dial also pushes in like a button, allowing you to adjust SS and Aperture. It's kind of strange - at first when changing the aperture, it automatically adjusts the SS. Then you press the button again and it allows you to set the SS independently. Pressing again allows you to then adj the F/stop independently. Pretty cool, though. The more I play with this camera, the more I like it :-)
 
My dial also pushes in like a button, allowing you to adjust SS and Aperture. It's kind of strange - at first when changing the aperture, it automatically adjusts the SS. Then you press the button again and it allows you to set the SS independently. Pressing again allows you to then adj the F/stop independently. Pretty cool, though. The more I play with this camera, the more I like it :-)
Sounds sweet. I don't think the GF1 P mode works like that. From what I can tell the dial does nothing in P mode initially, if you push it down then it toggles to control exposure-compensation (as it does in aperture-priority and shutter-priority modes).

Anyone know more about P mode with the GF1?
 
There are 2 auto iso modes, "AUTO" and "ISO" (Intelligent ISO)

Auto will always try to use 1/30th or above (not ideal but usually works)

Intelligent ISO tries to work out how much camera movement there is and pick a higher or lower iso accordingly. If you're trying to capture a moving subject it'll raise the shutter speed, if it's a static scene and it thinks you're using a tripod it'll go lower, which is probably what's happening to you.

Check which one's selected.
 
My dial also pushes in like a button, allowing you to adjust SS and Aperture. It's kind of strange - at first when changing the aperture, it automatically adjusts the SS. Then you press the button again and it allows you to set the SS independently. Pressing again allows you to then adj the F/stop independently. Pretty cool, though. The more I play with this camera, the more I like it :-)
Sounds sweet. I don't think the GF1 P mode works like that. From what I can tell the dial does nothing in P mode initially, if you push it down then it toggles to control exposure-compensation (as it does in aperture-priority and shutter-priority modes).

Anyone know more about P mode with the GF1?
I just checked my manual, and they call it "Program Shift".
 
I agree that Auto ISO on the GF-1 isn't so great. Nikon's system on my D700 is much better.

But, a capable photographer will realize that the GF-1 solution is simply to shoot Shutter priority if shutter speed selection is most important.

You may not be old enough to remember or have actually shot full manual exposure cameras, but that's how many of us learned. I appreciate Auto-ISO and do use it with my D700, but I can make do with the Auto-ISO limitations of the GF-1.
 
Note the algorithms for auto ISO have been changed on the G2. It uses faster shutter speeds which is particularly useful with the 20mm lens in low light where you need to freeze the people moving and at f1.7 have plenty of the ISO range to work with.
That's god to hear. Of course being able to set the lowest shutter speed manually would be even better. What are the slowest shutter speeds the G2 uses before raising the ISO? Does it vary with the focal length?

I was out at the North Sea Jazz festival last night and just used shutter speed priority since I find sharpness and DOF more than acceptable with the pancake at F1.7. I put a photo from last night up on my blog (link below).
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Björn

http://www.bmupix.com
 
I agree that Auto ISO on the GF-1 isn't so great. Nikon's system on my D700 is much better.

But, a capable photographer will realize that the GF-1 solution is simply to shoot Shutter priority if shutter speed selection is most important.
Sure, one can use M or P or shutter priority to work around the issue sort of. But, in this case aperture selection is most important, hence the use of aperture priority. Shutter speed is of secondary importance, only becoming important when it drops too low.
You may not be old enough to remember or have actually shot full manual exposure cameras, but that's how many of us learned. I appreciate Auto-ISO and do use it with my D700, but I can make do with the Auto-ISO limitations of the GF-1.
One can always "make do".
 
Bjorn - I will have to do some testing when I get back to SF (I'm on the east coast). I think I posted before that with the 20mm it was bumping ISO at 1/60. It still is focal length determinant so a longer lens does get a faster shutter speed and legacy lenses also get a higher than 1/30 min shutter speed. I got the G2 but not that long after I got my NEX and have been using the Sony more extensively. I am going on a photo trip to Ireland and needed to assess if I could just go with Sony gear A900 backed up by NEX vs having to take A900 plus full m4/3 system. The NEX adapted with my Sony Zeiss glass is excellent so the G2 has been idle and m4/3 will not be going on this trip.
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terry
My picture a day site
http://blipfoto.com/terryb
General photos
http://tbanet.zenfolio.com/
 
Thanks for your answer, Terry. It seems someone at Panasonic was listening and has tweaked auto ISO to perform more in the way you would expect it to. Although I generally watch my settings anyway and adjust them accordingly, it's sometimes good to be able to rely on the camera's automatic modes.

Given that you use an A900 it makes perfect sense to backup your system with a NEX-5. I wouldn't want to carry two systems with me on a trip either; the more mobile you are, the better. I'm in a different position as mFT is my only system. Eventually I'd like to backup a more fully featured mFT body with an ultracompact one.

I'm looking forward to seeing some of your photos from beautiful Ireland.
Bjorn - I will have to do some testing when I get back to SF (I'm on the east coast). I think I posted before that with the 20mm it was bumping ISO at 1/60. It still is focal length determinant so a longer lens does get a faster shutter speed and legacy lenses also get a higher than 1/30 min shutter speed. I got the G2 but not that long after I got my NEX and have been using the Sony more extensively. I am going on a photo trip to Ireland and needed to assess if I could just go with Sony gear A900 backed up by NEX vs having to take A900 plus full m4/3 system. The NEX adapted with my Sony Zeiss glass is excellent so the G2 has been idle and m4/3 will not be going on this trip.
--
Björn

http://www.bmupix.com
 
camera of this price to use as a point-and-shoot, without understanding how to make the camera do what they want.

There isn't anything wrong with this - its their money - but I wonder how far this goes ? Do people buy the new oversize Leica (its around $20K US with lenses, in't ?) - and then expect the camera to function as a successful point-and-shoot ?

Amazing. . .
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Bill Wilson
 
camera of this price to use as a point-and-shoot, without understanding how to make the camera do what they want.
Thats quite a rude comment, saying I don't understand how to make the camera do what I want.
There isn't anything wrong with this - its their money - but I wonder how far this goes ? Do people buy the new oversize Leica (its around $20K US with lenses, in't ?) - and then expect the camera to function as a successful point-and-shoot ?
Why would you spend that much on a camera?
Amazing. . .
--
Bill Wilson
 

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