Nerd Wars...Part 1

The problem in long threads on the subject is that people cannot be expected to repeat all that was said before in each post.
Yes.
What CG didn't say is that this gives rogues like you the freedom to lie about what they said higher up in the thread in the hope that no-one will read back.
Fair enough. But the "technologists" never disputed the point (nor anyone else, that I'm aware of).
I agree, but they didn't make it easy for lay readers to understand that what they were preaching and demonstrating was an abstract concept.
1. Whatever we 'technologists' do you will accuse us either of leaving bits out or talking technobabble. This is the kind of argument you like because it allows you to think you've won while talking complete garbage, lying, libelling, insulting and all the usual things that go in your style of discussion.

2. The concept is not abstract. It can directly influence photographic technique for the better.
Many saw Guillermo's picture and instantly had their BS detector go off. Go back and look at the thread and I think you will see several people that obviously misunderstood what Thomas and Emil were saying. I think that at least in Emil's case, he has the writing talent to explain it clearly. That he chose not to disturbs me!
Another defamation. Of course he was trying to write it as clearly as he could. It's simply that you choose to blame your lack of comprehension on anyone else but yourself.

--
thomas
 
Just use a partial quote out of context, then pull it apart.
I would be interested to see your proof that a 350D is better than the D300 at higher ISO'S though as that is counter to everything I have experienced.
I'd be curious as to how you drew that conclusion from what I wrote.
Yes, that will be interesting. I'll bet it has something to do with this sentence of yours:

" For Guillermo's 350D, that point of diminishing returns is somewhere between ISO 800 and 1600; for the D300, it's considerably lower. "

That doesn't say that the 350D has better high-sensitivity results than the D300. Honestly, I'm not sure what it says? It is probably some esoteric message? I'm not trying to be mean or nasty, Harry and I just don't understand what you wrote! I was kinda hoping when you shared your secret method I'd understand:

" ...I'll tell you how to determine this max useful ISO for any given camera without having to conduct a whole bunch of tests. "

Honestly, your writing does sorta imply that the D300 has a max useful ISO considerably lower than 800 . I can see where Harry got confused... ;-)
Let's now look at the quote you pulled in context
A side point to the little demonstrations is that the benefit to raising the ISO diminishes to a negligible amount at some (camera-dependent) ISO; beyond this point there is little difference between using any higher ISO setting, vs using that ISO and pushing in raw conversion to the desired output brightness. And though there is little difference wrt noise, use of the lower ISO leaves more highlight headroom should you want it.

For Guillermo's 350D, that point of diminishing returns is somewhere between ISO 800 and 1600; for the D300, it's considerably lower. If you behave yourself, I'll tell you how to determine this max useful ISO for any given camera without having to conduct a whole bunch of tests.
Those of us who can read two paragraphs at a stretch and not lose track can see, from the first paragraph,
the benefit to raising the ISO diminishes to a negligible amount at some (camera-dependent) ISO; beyond this point there is little difference between using any higher ISO setting, vs using that ISO and pushing in raw conversion to the desired output brightness.
and then from the second
For Guillermo's 350D, that point of diminishing returns is somewhere between ISO 800 and 1600; for the D300, it's considerably lower.
So, we might reasonably conclude that what Emil meant was that the point at which there is little difference between using a higher ISO setting against using that ISO and pushing is between 800 and 1600 for the 350D and considerably lower for the D300.
--
thomas
 
He knew what Emil meant already, he's just trying to make others think that the nonsense he's been spouting was Emil's (or mine or John Sheehy's or Eric Fossum's) fault. It'll be your fault next.
What Emil is talking about is that when you set the ISO gain of the camera there is a point where increasing the gain further doesn't lower the noise contribution of the camera's electronics. Above this gain more gain does not improve the raw data recorded, it just clips the highlights more. For you this may not matter because even with manual exposure when you set a high ISO gain it is not just to get the best raw data: you also will probably want a usable review image or live view image. So, you will just set the ISO that yields a photo that looks properly exposed and forget that you might be able to protect the highlights better. If you use a Canon camera it is worthwhile to turn highlight tone priority on in this case because it will add an extra stop of highlight protection. For my Canon 5D mark 2 I can set HTP on for the ISO range from 2500 to 6400 to get an extra stop of highlight preservation without the noise penalty that occurs at lower ISO gains.

The maximum useful ISO gain should matter greatly to the camera designer. In fact it is stupid that higher gains exist. What the camera should do is stop increasing the gain when the maximum useful ISO is reached and when the photographer sets a higher ISO just adjust the raw conversion to yield a photo of the desired brightness. In that case the raw data itself should just carry a metadata field to indicate what ISO value the photographer set so if a new raw conversion is made the correct starting brightness can automatically be set.
--
thomas
 
I would be interested to see your proof that a 350D is better than the D300 at higher ISO'S though as that is counter to everything I have experienced.
I'd be curious as to how you drew that conclusion from what I wrote.
Yes, that will be interesting. I'll bet it has something to do with this sentence of yours:

" For Guillermo's 350D, that point of diminishing returns is somewhere between ISO 800 and 1600; for the D300, it's considerably lower. "

That doesn't say that the 350D has better high-sensitivity results than the D300. Honestly, I'm not sure what it says? It is probably some esoteric message? I'm not trying to be mean or nasty, Harry and I just don't understand what you wrote! I was kinda hoping when you shared your secret method I'd understand:

" ...I'll tell you how to determine this max useful ISO for any given camera without having to conduct a whole bunch of tests. "

Honestly, your writing does sorta imply that the D300 has a max useful ISO considerably lower than 800 . I can see where Harry got confused... ;-)
Just because camera A has a lower max useful ISO than camera B says nothing about whether camera A has a higher or lower noise than camera B at any given ISO of interest. Thus there is nothing in what I wrote that makes any implication about how different cameras compare. Rather the statements are purely concerned with the noise performance of a given camera , and that the ISO characteristics vary among different camera models .

--
emil
--



http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/20d/
 
Go to DxOmark.com to the page for the camera of interest. Pull up the Dynamic Range graph. Here for example are the graphs of three cameras, the D3s, D3x, and P65+:

http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/20d/posts/dpr/D3s_D3x_P65-printDR.jpg

Locate the point beyond which DR drops one stop for every stop increase in ISO. This is the point at which there is no benefit to further raising the ISO (caveat: unless your camera has a pattern noise problem, for instance the 5D2, in which case one needs to do further tests).
[snip]
That's quite interesting...more so than I'd guessed it would be! But I was rather expecting a graph with the 350D and D300? ;-) I guess you already had the one you showed ready for presentation?
Yes.
Here is the one we're interested in:



I shows what you described.

I use 800 ISO a lot on my D300. Subjectively, it has less noise at that setting than at 400 ISO. I think some objective tests (like the one here on dpr) have shown that too. I use my flashes a lot , even in daylight. A pragmatic side benefit to using 800 ISO is that I extend battery life in the flashes.
Fine for determining the point of diminishing returns. Shows it to be about 1600 on the 350D and about 400 on the D300.

Note however if one wants to compare camera noise between models, one should use the "print" tab from DxO rather than the "screen" tab as you have done. The latter disadvantages the D300 by about a third of a stop due to its higher resolution. The graph qualitatively says that the D300 is a better low ISO performer, while the 350D is slightly better at high ISO. However, this is where my caveat comes in -- Canon cameras exhibit more pattern noise than most other brands, so there is more to it than is simply shown in the graph -- the pattern noise will limit the image quality at high ISO, and so one may prefer the D300 still at these ISO even though it does not show as well on this particular performance metric.

--
emil
--



http://theory.uchicago.edu/~ejm/pix/20d/
 
[snip]
Fine for determining the point of diminishing returns. Shows it to be about 1600 on the 350D and about 400 on the D300.

Note however if one wants to compare camera noise between models, one should use the "print" tab from DxO rather than the "screen" tab as you have done. The latter disadvantages the D300 by about a third of a stop due to its higher resolution. The graph qualitatively says that the D300 is a better low ISO performer, while the 350D is slightly better at high ISO. However, this is where my caveat comes in -- Canon cameras exhibit more pattern noise than most other brands, so there is more to it than is simply shown in the graph -- the pattern noise will limit the image quality at high ISO, and so one may prefer the D300 still at these ISO even though it does not show as well on this particular performance metric.
Right, and of course there are other image quality parameters than just maximum signal to noise ratio of the green pixels which is plotted there. If you click the color sensitivity tab you can see that the Nikon's better color filters results in about 1/3 stop better color sensitivity than the 350D even at high ISO.
 
Maybe because chuckup considers himself to be a pro.

You should worry, from the title, he clearly intends there to be a part 2, maybe even 3, 4, 5....
--
thomas
 
[snip]
Fine for determining the point of diminishing returns. Shows it to be about 1600 on the 350D and about 400 on the D300.

Note however if one wants to compare camera noise between models, one should use the "print" tab from DxO rather than the "screen" tab as you have done. The latter disadvantages the D300 by about a third of a stop due to its higher resolution. The graph qualitatively says that the D300 is a better low ISO performer, while the 350D is slightly better at high ISO. However, this is where my caveat comes in -- Canon cameras exhibit more pattern noise than most other brands, so there is more to it than is simply shown in the graph -- the pattern noise will limit the image quality at high ISO, and so one may prefer the D300 still at these ISO even though it does not show as well on this particular performance metric.
Right, and of course there are other image quality parameters than just maximum signal to noise ratio of the green pixels which is plotted there. If you click the color sensitivity tab you can see that the Nikon's better color filters results in about 1/3 stop better color sensitivity than the 350D even at high ISO.
The increased resolution by itself is an important image quality parameter. With the better colour sensitivity and 22% better linear resolution, there's little doubt that the D300 has advantages.
--
thomas
 
In one of those threads (which I was looking for, but couldn't find) John Sheehy points out that 'overexposed' JPEGs pull nicely, with the same benefits. Like film, the S-curve limits the pull possible without messing the contrast, but the technique can still be used with benefit. A model I did a shoot with produced a stunning result for her web site from one of my JPEG index files - to my chagrin, better than my effort from the raw.
you'll have to forgive me, but i'm highly skeptical of this. every time i overexpose a JPEG, the highlights are trashed, and there's not much i can do with the picture afterward. with raw, it's of course a different story.
 
Yes, the condition for this discussion has always been that we compare the same exposure at different ISO's. If you adjust the exposure with the ISO, the higher ISO's going to get less exposure and thus more visible noise. I like to avoid 'correctly exposed' or 'properly exposed', exposure really is a choice.
quite. however, in the real world, people do this the other way around. most people are really only using higher ISOs when they are forced to, generally because of less available light -- either the ambient light in the scene, or because they are forced to drop exposure for artistic or technical reasons.

so i'm not really sure how useful the demonstration is, regardless of its accuracy. and it's only seemed to confuse people.
No one is.
well, you never know. i've had some pretty strange arguments on this site. i once spent several posts trying to convince someone that focal length had nothing to do with perspective, except as an indirect result of working distance. this is also perhaps one of those technical and counter intuitive kinds of discussions.
I've come across some. I'd just like people to stop using the adjective 'correct' with respect to exposure.
agreed. and especially when you start adding lighting to the scene yourself, "correct" just goes right out the wind. there are myriad ways to expose something, all of which can be perfectly acceptable depending on your goals.

i suppose what i meant by "correct" above was "neither clipping the shadows nor the highlights." there are, of course, reasons you might want to one or both of those.
 
In one of those threads (which I was looking for, but couldn't find) John Sheehy points out that 'overexposed' JPEGs pull nicely, with the same benefits. Like film, the S-curve limits the pull possible without messing the contrast, but the technique can still be used with benefit. A model I did a shoot with produced a stunning result for her web site from one of my JPEG index files - to my chagrin, better than my effort from the raw.
you'll have to forgive me, but i'm highly skeptical of this. every time i overexpose a JPEG, the highlights are trashed, and there's not much i can do with the picture afterward. with raw, it's of course a different story.
I think a lot has to do with the amount of 'over exposure' and the degree to which the highlights have been squeezed. Certainly, the pull range is not as great as with raw, but it is still there.
--
thomas
 
Yes, the condition for this discussion has always been that we compare the same exposure at different ISO's. If you adjust the exposure with the ISO, the higher ISO's going to get less exposure and thus more visible noise. I like to avoid 'correctly exposed' or 'properly exposed', exposure really is a choice.
quite. however, in the real world, people do this the other way around. most people are really only using higher ISOs when they are forced to, generally because of less available light -- either the ambient light in the scene, or because they are forced to drop exposure for artistic or technical reasons.

so i'm not really sure how useful the demonstration is, regardless of its accuracy. and it's only seemed to confuse people.
What's surprised me is not that people are confused - I expect that because the idea does go against the grain of the 'virtual film' paradigm that digital photography has developed. It's just the level of hostility amongst some, of which chuxter is the most extreme example, and has now made it his mission to expose my 'false religion'. It's not even as if anyone says that photographers must do it this way - we just say if you know this, you can do it this way, if you like.

On the confusion, I think it is because it goes against some deeply ingrained myths. One is that the high noise seen in high ISO images is electronic noise due to high amplification.

The other is that there is some 'correct' exposure, and that it is imperative to image quality to find that 'correct' exposure.

The hostility comes from some self proclaimed experts who have been going around promulgating those myths - they just can't stomach being wrong.

As for how useful it is - it depends on what your priorities are. However, if you want low noise, then knowing that noise is dependent on exposure tells you that you should never unnecessarily reduce exposure. That in turn leads to a different way of working, one where if the image is 'too bright', you don't reduce exposure to make it darker, you do that in processing, whether by reducing ISO or, better, taking down the brightness in processing (so long as the highlights aren't clipping). I started going on about this after conversations with a few friends (who are photographers who know about the technology) and found we'd all drifted into working that way.
No one is.
well, you never know. i've had some pretty strange arguments on this site. i once spent several posts trying to convince someone that focal length had nothing to do with perspective, except as an indirect result of working distance. this is also perhaps one of those technical and counter intuitive kinds of discussions.
Another deeply ingrained myth there. And I have seen similarly hostile responses to that.
I've come across some. I'd just like people to stop using the adjective 'correct' with respect to exposure.
agreed. and especially when you start adding lighting to the scene yourself, "correct" just goes right out the wind. there are myriad ways to expose something, all of which can be perfectly acceptable depending on your goals.

i suppose what i meant by "correct" above was "neither clipping the shadows nor the highlights." there are, of course, reasons you might want to one or both of those.
Exactly, which is why I qualify my advice about the highest possible exposure with 'which doesn't clip the highlights'.
--
thomas
 
I think a lot has to do with the amount of 'over exposure' and the degree to which the highlights have been squeezed. Certainly, the pull range is not as great as with raw, but it is still there.
i mean, exposing to the right generally works pretty well. even doing that, i tend to try to leave a little bit of a buffer right at the edge of the histogram to avoid clipping.

but every time i've over exposed even just a little, those highlights are gone.
 
What's surprised me is not that people are confused - I expect that because the idea does go against the grain of the 'virtual film' paradigm that digital photography has developed. It's just the level of hostility amongst some, of which chuxter is the most extreme example, and has now made it his mission to expose my 'false religion'. It's not even as if anyone says that photographers must do it this way - we just say if you know this, you can do it this way, if you like.
he seems to have misunderstood what the demonstration was about. i looked at the example and immediately said, "that's not what it shows." it pretty clearly shows why it's better to boost ISO in-camera than it is to correct it after the fact.

now, much of his OP is about how "technologists" (you, et al?) need to explain better. so perhaps by his own admission, he doesn't get it. and that's okay. this is pretty complicated stuff. i can't say i even get it completely after reading your posts.
On the confusion, I think it is because it goes against some deeply ingrained myths. One is that the high noise seen in high ISO images is electronic noise due to high amplification.
but isn't that some factor in the noise? the sensor has a weaker input, and it becomes harder to tell the stray photons and other interference from the actual signal input?
The other is that there is some 'correct' exposure, and that it is imperative to image quality to find that 'correct' exposure.
"quality" is purely subjective. on this site, it seems to mean "maximum sharpness, lowest noise." but clearly lighting, ambience, mood, subject, artistic composition, etc, can all be counted as factors contributing to "quality." there might well be a reason to under expose an image by four stops, and clip all your shadows.
The hostility comes from some self proclaimed experts who have been going around promulgating those myths - they just can't stomach being wrong.
personally, i can get over being wrong about things. but i would like to understand what's actually going on.
As for how useful it is - it depends on what your priorities are. However, if you want low noise, then knowing that noise is dependent on exposure tells you that you should never unnecessarily reduce exposure. That in turn leads to a different way of working, one where if the image is 'too bright', you don't reduce exposure to make it darker, you do that in processing, whether by reducing ISO or, better, taking down the brightness in processing (so long as the highlights aren't clipping). I started going on about this after conversations with a few friends (who are photographers who know about the technology) and found we'd all drifted into working that way.
what you're saying isn't really all that different from the standard mantra. and it is, indeed, what i do. keep the exposure itself to the maximum, expose to the right, and keep the ISO as low as possible.

the only times i reduce the exposure are:
  • when i'm already at base ISO, and it's just too bright. ie: in the sun.
  • when i need to stop motion (and i'm willing to make the trade-off with noise, but not flash)
  • when i find it really hard to get the DOF or the focus i want with a lens wide-open. for instance, with my MF fast primes, i can sometimes be tricky to get accurate focus where i want it with shallow DOF, and i have to stop down slightly.
...and that's pretty much it, i think?
 
I think a lot has to do with the amount of 'over exposure' and the degree to which the highlights have been squeezed. Certainly, the pull range is not as great as with raw, but it is still there.
i mean, exposing to the right generally works pretty well. even doing that, i tend to try to leave a little bit of a buffer right at the edge of the histogram to avoid clipping.

but every time i've over exposed even just a little, those highlights are gone.
I'm not going to argue with that, I'd guess it depends a lot on the specific camera and JPEG settings.
--
thomas
 
What's surprised me is not that people are confused - I expect that because the idea does go against the grain of the 'virtual film' paradigm that digital photography has developed. It's just the level of hostility amongst some, of which chuxter is the most extreme example, and has now made it his mission to expose my 'false religion'. It's not even as if anyone says that photographers must do it this way - we just say if you know this, you can do it this way, if you like.
he seems to have misunderstood what the demonstration was about. i looked at the example and immediately said, "that's not what it shows." it pretty clearly shows why it's better to boost ISO in-camera than it is to correct it after the fact.
That's right. And the reason for that is that high ISO settings add less visible read noise to the image.
now, much of his OP is about how "technologists" (you, et al?) need to explain better. so perhaps by his own admission, he doesn't get it. and that's okay. this is pretty complicated stuff. i can't say i even get it completely after reading your posts.
Actually, I don't think it is complicated, but I do think I have difficulty getting it across. One reason is probably that I don't communicate as well as I might. Another though is that the facts get blurred amongst the hostile and devious debates which inevitably seem to go with it. Knowing that the debate is bound to come I try to phrase what I say carefully so that it isn't vulnerable to simple attacks. So I wouldn't say 'high ISO reduces noise', what I'd say is that 'high ISO reduces visible read noise'. However, this language doesn't really help people that much, and gets dismissed as technobabble. I think when I reduce the subject to its basics, it's pretty clear.
On the confusion, I think it is because it goes against some deeply ingrained myths. One is that the high noise seen in high ISO images is electronic noise due to high amplification.
but isn't that some factor in the noise? the sensor has a weaker input, and it becomes harder to tell the stray photons and other interference from the actual signal input?
In electronic terms it isn't a noticeable factor at all, contrary to what people think. The front end electronic noises are a small contributor to the overall noise, so although they do get amplified, the removal of the much bigger back end noises, which get swamped by the amplification have a much bigger effect.

The relative electronic contribution to the noise almost invariably goes down as ISO is raised, in some cameras by a large amount. The extra visible noise you see in a low light image is almost entirely photon shot noise. You see it because the dynamic range of the display medium exceeds the dynamic range that the camera can give with that little light going into the sensor.
The other is that there is some 'correct' exposure, and that it is imperative to image quality to find that 'correct' exposure.
"quality" is purely subjective. on this site, it seems to mean "maximum sharpness, lowest noise." but clearly lighting, ambience, mood, subject, artistic composition, etc, can all be counted as factors contributing to "quality." there might well be a reason to under expose an image by four stops, and clip all your shadows.
I can't see why you'd want to do that, unless you were looking for high noise in your image. Otherwise, if you're looking for a dark image with plugged shadows, you're etter darkening ind adjusting the shadow curve in processing. In noise terms, there is never a reason to reduce the exposure.
The hostility comes from some self proclaimed experts who have been going around promulgating those myths - they just can't stomach being wrong.
personally, i can get over being wrong about things. but i would like to understand what's actually going on.
Me too. generally it's being wrong and learning that helps one understand. Being wrong is only embarassing if you been wrong with a whole load of bravado and derision directed against those who are right.
what you're saying isn't really all that different from the standard mantra. and it is, indeed, what i do. keep the exposure itself to the maximum, expose to the right, and keep the ISO as low as possible.
If you're exposing to the right, you're keeping the ISO as high as possible with that exposure. Where I think what I'm saying is radically different is that the consequence of what I say is don't use exposure to adjust image density. That cuts right across the way most people work withb their cameras, and the way that manufacturers set up the meters.
the only times i reduce the exposure are:
  • when i'm already at base ISO, and it's just too bright. ie: in the sun.
Got to then
  • when i need to stop motion (and i'm willing to make the trade-off with noise, but not flash)
That, as I say, is a case when your maximum exposure is constrained by your pictorial requirements
  • when i find it really hard to get the DOF or the focus i want with a lens wide-open. for instance, with my MF fast primes, i can sometimes be tricky to get accurate focus where i want it with shallow DOF, and i have to stop down slightly.
And that too.
...and that's pretty much it, i think?
That's pretty much what I do too. Except I've come round to just setting the exposure I want, set the ISO to get it to the right and shoot away (in M), just checking the meter in case I need to change the ISO. I just wish I had auto ISO (and that auto ISO's were properly designed as 'exposure priority' mode) it would make life simpler.
--
thomas
 
What's surprised me is not that people are confused - I expect that because the idea does go against the grain of the 'virtual film' paradigm that digital photography has developed. It's just the level of hostility amongst some, of which chuxter is the most extreme example, and has now made it his mission to expose my 'false religion'. It's not even as if anyone says that photographers must do it this way - we just say if you know this, you can do it this way, if you like.
he seems to have misunderstood what the demonstration was about. i looked at the example and immediately said, "that's not what it shows." it pretty clearly shows why it's better to boost ISO in-camera than it is to correct it after the fact.
I understood. I very much agree that the caption to Guillermo's crops is, as you say. I even suggested to Emil that a good one line summary of his verbose text might be:

" Analog gain results in less apparent noise than digital gain. "

I still think that is a good generalization, but Emil didn't reply. :-(

I react strongly to what Thomas said because I have heard it too often. I have gotten sensitized to messages like that...they immediately get my attention. Just as you immediately said (to your self, I presume...not having any other intelligent life-form handy), " that's not what it shows. ", I immediately thought, "here they go again trying to confuse everybody."
now, much of his OP is about how "technologists" (you, et al?) need to explain better. so perhaps by his own admission, he doesn't get it. and that's okay. this is pretty complicated stuff. i can't say i even get it completely after reading your posts.
So far, Thomas has never written anything that helped me understand. He doesn't write in a way that helps me...it's like he's more interested in using impressive words and complicated constructions (perhaps to impress others in his group) than making a serious attempt to help me and others improve our knowledge. I have learned from others, though.

--
Charlie Davis
Nikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D50, Nikon D300
HomePage: http://www.1derful.info
“...photography for and of itself – photographs taken
from the world as it is – are misunderstood as a
collection of random observations and lucky moments...
Paul Graham
 
I would be interested to see your proof that a 350D is better than the D300 at higher ISO'S though as that is counter to everything I have experienced.
I'd be curious as to how you drew that conclusion from what I wrote.
Yes, that will be interesting. I'll bet it has something to do with this sentence of yours:

" For Guillermo's 350D, that point of diminishing returns is somewhere between ISO 800 and 1600; for the D300, it's considerably lower. "

That doesn't say that the 350D has better high-sensitivity results than the D300. Honestly, I'm not sure what it says? It is probably some esoteric message? I'm not trying to be mean or nasty, Harry and I just don't understand what you wrote! I was kinda hoping when you shared your secret method I'd understand:

" ...I'll tell you how to determine this max useful ISO for any given camera without having to conduct a whole bunch of tests. "

Honestly, your writing does sorta imply that the D300 has a max useful ISO considerably lower than 800 . I can see where Harry got confused... ;-)
Just because camera A has a lower max useful ISO than camera B says nothing about whether camera A has a higher or lower noise than camera B at any given ISO of interest. Thus there is nothing in what I wrote that makes any implication about how different cameras compare. Rather the statements are purely concerned with the noise performance of a given camera , and that the ISO characteristics vary among different camera models .
I agree, but Harry didn't get it. He interpreted you statement literally . Read that way, you said the D300 doesn't have "useful" results (for some reason) above 800 ISO. By leaving "useful" undefined and up to the reader to guess what that means, you allowed Harry to think that the reason the D300 was non-useful above 800 ISO, was noise...that is kinda what we were discussing. Perhaps you can now explain to Harry in what way the D300 is non-useful above 800 ISO?

Note that you don't have to tell me ...I understand what you were saying. Harry, I presume, doesn't yet understand.

--
Charlie Davis
Nikon 5700, Sony R1, Nikon D50, Nikon D300
HomePage: http://www.1derful.info
“...photography for and of itself – photographs taken
from the world as it is – are misunderstood as a
collection of random observations and lucky moments...
Paul Graham
 

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