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How much is this lens worth?
- Thread starter Gazooma
- Start date
Peter Jonkman
Senior Member
I have that lens too and it's easily worth 300 euros (if in good condition).
By the way: buy it too if it has a sticky diaphragm. This lens is super easy to disassemble, even by people with two left hands
By the way: buy it too if it has a sticky diaphragm. This lens is super easy to disassemble, even by people with two left hands
Thanks, Peter. I have seen some of your beautiful photos taken with this lens. Can you help with some information about it? It does not come with any instructions. The pin is spring loaded when on A and just free moving when on M. Is that normal? So, would it still work when on Manual, to allow changing of apertures? I do not have an adapter to try it.
Peter Jonkman
Senior Member
So you already have the lens. Congratulations!
On my copy, the pin behaves exactly like yours, so it's normal. Of course, it will still work in M mode, provided that the diaphragm is not sticky. Is the diaphragm closed if you have it in M mode and at f/16?
On my copy, the pin behaves exactly like yours, so it's normal. Of course, it will still work in M mode, provided that the diaphragm is not sticky. Is the diaphragm closed if you have it in M mode and at f/16?
Peter,
I have not used screw mount lenses before and I do not have an adapter yet. Maybe today.
The pin barely extends beyond the rim of the back element. As it mentioned, it is loose when on M. The diaphram does not move at all when I turn the aperture ring to f/16 or anywhere, whether set to M or A. Is this easy to fix?
I have been told that when mounted on a Nikon, using an el cheapo adapter, it was always on max aperture. So it is not closing.
I have not used screw mount lenses before and I do not have an adapter yet. Maybe today.
The pin barely extends beyond the rim of the back element. As it mentioned, it is loose when on M. The diaphram does not move at all when I turn the aperture ring to f/16 or anywhere, whether set to M or A. Is this easy to fix?
I have been told that when mounted on a Nikon, using an el cheapo adapter, it was always on max aperture. So it is not closing.
Coldamus
Senior Member
Gazooma,
I can't speak with any authority in regard to that lens, but the M and A switch arrangement may be similar to the Asahi Optical Co. (Pentax) Super-Takumars.
With a Super-Takumar, if the switch is in the Manual position, the pin is loose but the diaphram visibly stops down or opens up as the aperture ring is turned.
With the switch in the Auto position, the pin has tension on it but the diaphram remains wide open as the aperture ring is turned. It only stops down to the selected f-stop when the pin is pushed in.
In M42 mount cameras such as the Spotmatic, this allowed the user to focus and compose with the aperture wide-open (for brighter viewfinder and more precise focus). The camera pushed in the pin at the moment of shutter activatation to stop down to the selected aperture. On the Spotmatic there was also a spring-loaded switch on the camera that activated the pin and turned on the meter. This allowed the user to manually stop down for metering and depth-of-field preview.
On my Super-Takumar 55/1.8 there is another hardly noticeable pin that just barely protrudes through the flange. For reasons unknown to me, it prevents the Auto/Man switch being moved when the lens is not mounted on a camera.
regards, Coldamus
Here is a quote from Jim King, "Also, check your M42 lenses to see whether or not they have an auto/manual stopdown switch on the side like the Pentax M42 lenses. If they do, then a standard Pentax mount adapter will work; if not, you will have to figure out a way to keep the stopdown pin depressed so you can use the lens at other than full aperture."
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=34245072&q=m42+pin+glue&qf=m
Some folks use a modified M42-K adapter to keep the pin in.
Some folks glue the pin in.
Some folks remove the pin completely.
Here is a search I just did that gives some of the answers.
http://search.dpreview.com/?forumid=1036&scope=Forums&sort=date&q=m42+pin+glue&submit.x=3&submit.y=6
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
Ron
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'The first thing I do each morning is grab one of my Pentax DSLR cameras and stroll to the mirror just so I can start the day off with a double dose of beauty.' ~ brandrx
'Keep your eyes looking forward. However, glance back now and then to see where you've come from. It will put a smile on your face.' ~ brandrx
Y
Yanko Kitanov
Guest
Congratulations with this lovely lens, it's a great one imho.
Please post some images(it's great for portraits and portraits are a great source to check sharpness wide open and general IQ)
I am really interested in how does it perform, as I am looking to buy a 77-85mm range, cheaper, but fast portrait glass on M42.
Cheers!
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1/25sec. and thats all...anything can fit in it
Yanko Kitanov
Янко Китанов
Please post some images(it's great for portraits and portraits are a great source to check sharpness wide open and general IQ)
I am really interested in how does it perform, as I am looking to buy a 77-85mm range, cheaper, but fast portrait glass on M42.
Cheers!
--
1/25sec. and thats all...anything can fit in it
Yanko Kitanov
Янко Китанов
Irek J
Veteran Member
Indeed, this lens is a beauty and looks as nice as a 77 LTD. Btw, would you share a link (if you do have it) regarding photos taken with this lens?
Thanks, if not then no worries
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Irek J.
Thanks, if not then no worries
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Irek J.
Peter Jonkman
Senior Member
Then I know what's wrong with your lens. It should work perfectly with a normal M42 to PK adapter with the lens on M. However, your Pancolar has a common problem: stikcy diaphragm blades. Each and every Pancolar will exhibit this problem sooner or later due to grease from the focusing helicoid entering the diaphragm mechanism. I believe Carl Zeiss Jena back then used inferior grease because almost 80% of my CZJ lenses show this problem.
Where do you live? If you didn't pay much then a CLA would be the best advice. The Pancolar is worth it... It's easily on the same level as the 77mm f/1.8 Limited, but with less CA.
Thanks so much to all of you. Now, since the diaphragm does not close down at all either in M or A, when I turn the aperture ring, whether the pin is pushed in or not, it seems the diaphragm is jammed, as diagnosed by Peter. I will get it repaired. I assume this is what a "CLA" is. Is it worth $100 for this job? or is it really a simple task that I should do myself, if the repair job is going to cost more? Now, hopefully, it will after the un-jamming work without any modification to the pin on a K-x or a Nikon like the D60 or D300. Please advice. I appreciate all the help and I will post some pictures when it is working.
Here are some of Peter's shots using this lens.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=30828746
Yes, it does look like a great little lens, very little in fact for a big calibre 80mm lens, and that so nice as it is in keeping with the small sized Pentax cameras.
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1036&message=30828746
Yes, it does look like a great little lens, very little in fact for a big calibre 80mm lens, and that so nice as it is in keeping with the small sized Pentax cameras.
I can't see any stop-down button on the lens. Is there one on your lens, Peter?
Thanks a lot, Brandx, for all the info you came up with. I will wait and hear what Peter says as he knows this particular lens inside out. Hopefully, he will confirm that no modification is necessary regarding the pin, which is what I think he said.
Peter Jonkman
Senior Member
Indeed, it's one of the smallest 80mm f/1.8 lenses I know of. But that's by no means a drawback!
One more example to show how well it behaves in a strong backlit condition. This was shot wide open; in front of the subject was a white table. Note the absence of CA...
Another wide-open shot:
Peter Jonkman
Senior Member
The 80mm Pancolar does not have to be modified in any way to make it usable on our Pentax cameras. A regular M42 to PK adapter will do, with the aperture switch in M mode. Of course, this will only work after the blades have been cleaned. The diaphragm pin is not important; it was meant to be loose in M and spring-tensioned in A, so that's normal. No pin needs to be depressed by the adapter as that's what the M setting on the lens is for.
I'm not sure about the costs for a repair (or better: cleaning because nothing is broken). To disassemble it to the bare focusing helicoid and diaphragm mechanism:
1. Remove the three largest flat-head screws on the back and lift the back part off. Keep this in a safe place. Those are the only screws you will ever remove on this lens. While lifting it the back part off please watch how the aperture linkage works (two pieces of metal that should slide into each other).
2. Focus the lens to the closest position (it then extends to its longest size). Now grab the back part firmly and unscrew the front part (the part with the lens information ring. Don't be afraid to break anything, the front part should easily come off. Don't be afraid of lens elements falling out - this won't happen. The front lens group will stay in place; it's just the outer shell you are removing.
3. Now you have the lens with the lens elements still in place. The back lens group can easily be unscrewed too; this will come off in one piece (again no lens elements are going to fall out). Store this in a safe place.
4. Do the same with the front group; this will come out as one piece also. Store this too in a safe place.
5. Now we have only the focusing helicoid left with the diaphragm mechanism. Get the focus back to infinity and look at the back side of the lens. Look around the helicoid; you will notice a small spring-loaded lever hidden there. Grab a small screwdriver and try to push this lever to the side. It won't need much force and you'll notice that the diaphragm will close! You may need to move the large, loose lever a bit to have it close to f/16 (this large lever is in fact the diaphragm stop - it will close only to the f/stop this lever is at).
6. What I did afterwards is just a temporary solution: I cleaned the blades with a cotton swab dipped in pure naphta (or lighter fluid). This is a somewhat tedious job because the blades will never get 100% clean, but the lens may work long enough (several months) so that you can decide if it's worth to pay for a full CLA. You may need several cotton swabs before the blades are clean. Also close and open the diaphragm very often while cleaning... They may look wet but the naphta will quickly evaporate, leaving a dry diaphragm. You will need to clean both sides of the blades, fortunately those are easily accessible now.
7. By now you should know how to get the lens back into a whole piece
note: you should always store this lens with the diaphragm fully closed to f/16. If you do that then it will keep working for a long time).
What can I say? Such detailed and hard to find information. Such great advice - keeping it set at f/16 when not used! You obviously love this lens so much, Peter. Getting a bit excited myself and waiting anxiously for the repair job to finish. Will let you all know how it goes.
The portrait you just posted looks so nice. Such a gentle and soft graduation. What do you think, Yanko?
The portrait you just posted looks so nice. Such a gentle and soft graduation. What do you think, Yanko?
This is getting serious. Your photos are great and not just technically speaking, Peter. This little girl. What a fine example of what portraits should be like! So natural and beautiful, and that of course is not just due to the lens, no matter how good it is.
Irek J
Veteran Member
Wow, that's one fine lens. I might look for one that might replace my DA 70 eventually.
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Irek J.
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Irek J.
Irek J
Veteran Member
Hey Peter, it's incredible that there is no distortions visible. I'm starting to really be amazed by this classic, it's a hidden secret
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Irek J.
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Irek J.
Ressurrecting a very old thread.
My Pancolar had suffered the dreaded stuck aperture for a while and I've been letting it sit in my dry cabinet for the past few months. Till I found this thread and Peter's comment that even someone with 2 left hands (I qualify) can disassemble and clean this lens.
I followed the instructions and pictures and managed to clean the stuck apertures. Took a while to put the rear assembly back to get the aperture mechanism to work properly. It's working great just now. I hope I don't have to do this again anytime soon.
Thanks, Peter!
My Pancolar had suffered the dreaded stuck aperture for a while and I've been letting it sit in my dry cabinet for the past few months. Till I found this thread and Peter's comment that even someone with 2 left hands (I qualify) can disassemble and clean this lens.
I followed the instructions and pictures and managed to clean the stuck apertures. Took a while to put the rear assembly back to get the aperture mechanism to work properly. It's working great just now. I hope I don't have to do this again anytime soon.
Thanks, Peter!
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