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E-PL1: Fill-In flash + bright background = overexposure... how to deal with this

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kenwchan

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Hi there,

I'm trying to get some tips in how to shoot a person against a bright background.

If I turn on force-flash with the built-in flash I thought the flash is supposed to meter for the subject and the camera will meter for the background. But when using the flash, you're limited to max 1/160 shutter speed, resulting in everything pretty much blown out. And I wanted to shoot in Aperture priority mood with a large aperture to boot. Would you lock the exposure for the background using AEL and then take a picture with fill-in flash?

It is because of this 1/160 limitation? What else could I do? I guess I would have tried spot metering on the subject and not using flash at all, but that still results in an overly bright background...

Thanks for any tips.
Regards
Ken
 
You're being limited by the flash sync speed - you can't up your shutter speed over 1/160s. You need an neutral density filter. Shoot without the flash and note what aperture gives you 1/160s shutter speed or lower, then calculate how many stops you need. That will tell you which ND filter to use, an ND8 is 3 stops (1/8th the light). An ND16 is 4 stops. And so forth.
 
I had the same problem with my GF1, since the 1/160 sync speed for the internal flash was too limiting for fill flash. The flash would horribly overexpose nearby subjects, even when dialled down to -2 EV and shooting in M mode.

I ended up getting an external FL360 flash for outdoor portraiture, and that fixed all my problems.
 
kenwchan said:
how to shoot a person against a bright background.
I wanted to shoot in Aperture priority mood with a large aperture to boot
Click to expand...
I'd say give up the Aperture priority unless you're going after a specific look with indoor subject motion blur semi frozen with slow sync flash against a well exposed bright outdoor background.

What you want to do is meter for the background (outdoors in bright daylight?) and get the flash output to match that.

Use Shutter priority instead and set the speed at 1/180, when the flash pops up the speed will automatically go to 1/160.

Set the camera [+/-] to -1 so that the background is a little darker and doesn't divert attention from the subject.

If you want a wide aperture then use an ND filter as suggested in previous posts. E.g. If your outside scene meters at 1/160 f/11 ISO 200 and you want to use f/2.0, you have to stack enough ND filters on the lens to cover that 5 stop difference to get an effective f/11. Now the little pop up flash has to work hard to output light equivalent to f/11 so get closer to the subject. Disable Auto ISO and use a low fixed ISO (ie 200) so as not to overtax the flash.

Check that the Flash compensation is decoupled from AE compensation. In Custom Menu F, set the x-sync at 1/160 and the "Flash [+/-] + [+/-]" setting to OFF

Do some tests with flash compenstion at 0, +1, +2, +3 to see what works for you at a consistent flash to subject distance. (Menu item #2).
 
About using the FL360 - what is it specifically that helped? Is an external flash still limited to 1/160? Or is it because you're using it off-camera or something?

If I get a Nissin DI466 for M43, that will help? I actually have a FL14 but happened not to bring it with me that day

Rgds
Ken
 
Using the FL-36R and FL-50R you can activate the Super FP mode. This will allow for any shutter speed, up to 1/2000".

Cheers,
Jeff.

PS:I tried it, it works.
 
tinternaut said:
Possibly stupid questions but: Is the maximum flash sync speed a limitation of the camera or a limitation of the flash? Would an external flash help?
Click to expand...
The limitation is the Focal Plane shutter in the camera. To overcome it, a flash with FP (high speed strobe) capabilities is the answer. The FL-36R and FL-50R are capable of this. Also these units are TTL enabled, making the whole process painless.
tinternaut said:
Sorry if the questions are a bit silly but I shoot almost exclusively with available light.
Click to expand...
The FL-36R is a no brainer

Jeff.
 
Flash + outdoor + A-mode = bad results. The shutter speed maxes out too quickly and the camera does not have enough control over exposure. I think you would be better off with either P mode or S-mode, because the camera will select the right F-stop and right amount of flash to fill that F-stop. Or you can shoot manual, but wide open outside without FP flash or stopping down (on lens or ND filter) will surely overexpose your photo.
 
A> Use P mode. The only downfall is that you cannot control the DOF or the aperture size. It's short of using a full auto mode. Since the EPL1 can only sync upto 1/160, when shooting a bright scene, it automatically sets the shutter speed to 1/160, and the camera adjusts the aperture accordingly. It's up to the photographer to use + or - compensation depending on the metering mode used, as well as + or - flash power for fill (both are basics of photography).

B> ND filters are also a good solution, however, it will also affect the flash power/brightness, hence you have to adjust the output accordingly at the expense of recycling time and battery's charge duration.

C> The best solution by far is use an EXTERNAL FLASH GUN using these precepts:

1. Still use P mode (as if using the built-in flash), and use TTL or auto (and don't forget to adjust output power). As mentioned, the camera will automatically limit the shutter speed to 1/160.

2. If you still want DOF control and use A mode, adjust the flash gun's power to make it almost equal to the brightness of the scene. Use the flash' FP mode.

3. Use M mode, and do the sunny 16 rule. ISO 100, f/16, 1/125 sec.; use the flash gun's TTL or manual mode and adjust output accordingly. But since the EPL1 can sync to 1/160 sec, which is 1/3 stop lower, you may then increase your aperture to f/14 giving you a shallower (although unnoticeabe) DOF.

Basically, all the precepts are similar, but at least you have a choice on what mode to use. :D
--
I just can't seem to leave Olympus... :D
 
If you're shooting people, turn off face detect. Lots of my flash shots overexposed due to this.
 
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