Stop the lens down at least one stop, turn shutter speed down to 1/25, decrease ISO to 200. I'll assume you are using the tripod collar for that lens and you have it balanced on the tripod head. Depending upon how sturdy your tripod is, you may want to retract the legs so the camera is only a little off the ground. It makes it more difficult to focus but vibrations will damp out more quickly.
Jay is correct. This is the best I could do with my 300 and two 1/4 converters. 588mm. Quite heavily cropped and I just gave up last year. I just ordered two 2X converters which will put me at 1200. I'll see what I can come up with.
Nice clean shotsMy Lunar Eclipse shots with a Canon 400mm 5.6 and stacked 1.4 Kenko and Canon TCs. No clock drive and windy as the devil on ocean front..
http://jaysott.smugmug.com/Bonaire-Vacation-2008/Total-Lunar-Eclipse-from-Lac/4595818_k22iZ#271016255_5xjYn
--
Jay S.
Fuji 7000 / Canon 20D / Canon 40D / Canon 7D
http://jaysott.smugmug.com
Try it stopped down by 2/3 to 1 stop from wide open. Use a lower ISO (100 or 200) so you can sharpen up without too much artifacting, 1/25 sec is fast enough to freeze the moon even at 1600 mm. Do some exposure test shots first, once you get your desired exposure settings, do many individually focused shots. It's easy to choose the sharpest captures - just look at the file sizes and the one with the largest size is the most detailed, exposure parameters being the same.
Thanks for the tips.Try it stopped down by 2/3 to 1 stop from wide open. Use a lower ISO (100 or 200) so you can sharpen up without too much artifacting, 1/25 sec is fast enough to freeze the moon even at 1600 mm. Do some exposure test shots first, once you get your desired exposure settings, do many individually focused shots. It's easy to choose the sharpest captures - just look at the file sizes and the one with the largest size is the most detailed, exposure parameters being the same.
Most importantly, shoot when the seeing conditions are very clear.
--
Romy
PHILIPPINE WILD BIRDS
Photo Gallery - http://www.pbase.com/liquidstone
HD Bird Videos - http://exposureroom.com/members/RomyOcon.aspx/videos/
(Over 260 species captured in habitat, and counting.)
Nope, 1/25th isn't too slow. I just took this one tonight using 1/15 second and my 70-200 F2.8 IS II zoom:
I have read that full moon was not the best time so I was planning to wait until a half moon. I noticed on your recent moon shot you were at F16. I wrote those settings down and was going to try them.My take on the subject, the first evening when I received the lens - 7D + 70-200 f/2.8 @ 200mm, f/5.6, 1/100sec, ISO100, Manual mode.
The moon is a surprisingly lit night object, so no need to keep lens wide open. Better set to the lens' sharpest aperture.
Evidently, without TC the moon's FOV is quite small but yet, image came out pretty detailed. The two most important tips in moon photography would be to shoot when skies are absolutely clear (even faint clouds will smear your details) and to shoot when moon is in half phase, so craters and mountain shadows are most apparent.
The full moon looks flat b/c the sun casts no shadows then (high noon on the moon...). When in the 1st or 3rd quarters, shadows at the day-night boundary are maximized, hence most detailed.
