Beginning Macro (maybe?) with my D90, so im lens shopping. Which one?

I know the topic of macro lenses has been covered a thousand times, but as a beginner i have no clue what yall are talking about half the time. (1:1 1:3 11" working distance etc.....)

Im def. a beginner so all information is welcome to help me learn what im doing. With all the flowers about to bloom im looking to walk around and take closeups of flowers. I currently have the kit 18-105, the 35mm f1.8 DX, and the 70-300 f/4. None of which let me really get in there close to the flower and focus very well. Im told macro involves tripods, slides and flashes, so ill just call what I want to do Close Up photography, because the setup of all that seems like a ton of work if im out walking around a garden or something like that. I dont have a way to try them out before I buy something, so im just kinda going on yalls opinions. In a nutshell im just wanting to walk around and take handheld closeups of flowers.... I think that can describe it best, and maybe one day ill move to the whole tripod setup.

What would be a good lens to start off learning my way around close up pictures? Im looking around the $500 price rance so that puts me with the:

Nikon AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/3.5G ED VR Lens
Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D Lens
Sigma Telephoto 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Autofocus Lens
Tamron SP AF90mm f/2.8 Di 1:1 Macro Lens
Tokina Telephoto 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D Macro Autofocus Lens

If yall need more information on what im looking for so yall can help me out better just ask and ill be here lurking like normal.....

And as normal..... Thanks guys!

I have the 105mm VR but, in your case would look to the Nikkors as a matter of personal preference. The 60mm if you ever want to go to FX or the 85mm if you plan on stayind DX.

THe numbers like 1:1 1:3, etc are pretty easy to understand. Just change the ':' to a / and you have what fraction of the original size will be on your sensor. 1:1 means that the image will be the same size as the subject and 1:2 means it will be half the size, 1:3 one third, etc.

Working distance means the distance from the front of the lens when focussed to the subject. That measurement includes any hoods, ringlights, etc, hanging on the front of the lens. Flowers don't spook like bugs so, don't worry about it too much. Focus distance is measured from the image plane to the subject and, in this age of automation, isn't considered much anymore.

Most manufacturers macro lenses are just about their best. All are geared to close focus work and work well there. The differences show up at middle and longer focus distances, buikld quality, etc. When I can afford it, I go with Nikkor if only b ecuase my lenses thend to produce the same sort of things like color rendition, microcontrast, etc. WHen I see a review that says a lens has a slight yellow cast or makes pictures a little cool, I know it wll annoy me when trying to put together a slide show or package of pictures so, that lens gets skipped.

If you are going to take this seriously, you will need at least an off camera flash becasue the getting in close often means casting shadows. You might not actually notice them when focussing intently on a subject but they'll be there. Even an SB-400 on an SC-28 or 29 cable makes a huge difference in the apertures that will be available to you for DOF control and oblique lighting to gain texture on the petals.
--
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Chance13 said:

I know the topic of macro lenses has been covered a thousand times, but as a beginner i have no clue what yall are talking about half the time. (1:1 1:3 11" working distance etc.....)

Click to expand...

1:1, 1:3 etc. refers to the magnification at closest focusing distance. At 1:1, a subject is projected at life size onto the sensor, so for a DX sensor, an object 24mm X 16mm will completely fill the frame. 1:3 is 1/3 life size. A true macro lens can focus to 1:1 on its own, closer with accesories such as bellows, tubes, close up filters etc. Some zoom lenses are described as "macro" but cannot do 1:1 and are just marketing speak.

Working distance is the distance between the front of the lens and the subject at 1:1 magnification. Generally a longer focal length (higher mm number) gives you more working distance, useful if your subject tends to scare off easily.

Chance13 said:

Im def. a beginner so all information is welcome to help me learn what im doing. With all the flowers about to bloom im looking to walk around and take closeups of flowers. I currently have the kit 18-105, the 35mm f1.8 DX, and the 70-300 f/4. None of which let me really get in there close to the flower and focus very well. Im told macro involves tripods, slides and flashes, so ill just call what I want to do Close Up photography, because the setup of all that seems like a ton of work if im out walking around a garden or something like that. I dont have a way to try them out before I buy something, so im just kinda going on yalls opinions. In a nutshell im just wanting to walk around and take handheld closeups of flowers.... I think that can describe it best, and maybe one day ill move to the whole tripod setup.

Click to expand...

With some practice you should be able to get keepers at 1:1 handheld with the lenses you have listed. Shooting macro means you get very shallow areas in focus (called Depth of Field or DOF), so you usually need to close down the aperture to maximise DOF. This means you need good light to get sufficient shutter speed to avoid shake, hence the need for flash and/or tripod if the light is dimmer. Longer focal length requires more shutter speed and therefore more light or tripod for a sharp shot.

Chance13 said:

What would be a good lens to start off learning my way around close up pictures? Im looking around the $500 price rance so that puts me with the:

Nikon AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/3.5G ED VR Lens
Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D Lens
Sigma Telephoto 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Autofocus Lens
Tamron SP AF90mm f/2.8 Di 1:1 Macro Lens
Tokina Telephoto 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D Macro Autofocus Lens

Click to expand...

All of these would be good for what you want to do. I shoot bugs and flowers and use a Tamron 90mm Di macro. All macro lenses are sharp. The Nikons tend to have better build quality and faster focus for the AF-S types. VR is not required for macro as it is not effective at 1:1, but handy for eg. portraits in low light. Your choice is up to your budget.

Chance13 said:

If yall need more information on what im looking for so yall can help me out better just ask and ill be here lurking like normal.....

And as normal..... Thanks guys!

Click to expand...

--
Mike

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95274920@N00/

http://www.flickr.com/groups/closer_and_closer/

Then click discussion to post/read threads.

Its also not the only macro forum there. While there do a search for macro or whatever else interests you. It has a good D90 forum too (If thats what you have).

Steve

bgD300 said:

Working distance means the distance from the front of the lens when focussed to the subject. That measurement includes any hoods, ringlights, etc, hanging on the front of the lens.

Click to expand...

The focus distance in lens literature/specifications is quoted from the camera's image plane which is inside of the camera, not the front of the lens. The best way to determine where the camera's image plane is, look at the tripod mount point under the camera. For Nikons, it is usually 45mm from the image plane to the lens mount.

If the distance is quoted as 11" (roughly 0.30m or 300mm) and the lens is 6" (roughly 0.15m or 150mm) long, add 45mm (150+45=195mm) take away 195 from 300 for distance from front of lens, so 300 - 195 = 105mm (roughly 4.1"). The subject will be 4” or 105mm from the front of the lens ( the working distance ).

Working distance (WD) focus distance specs for various macro lenses here:

http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/macro-lens-calcs.html

SiPat said:

bgD300 said:

Working distance means the distance from the front of the lens when focussed to the subject. That measurement includes any hoods, ringlights, etc, hanging on the front of the lens.

Click to expand...

The focus distance in lens literature/specifications is quoted from the camera's image plane which is inside of the camera, not the front of the lens. The best way to determine where the camera's image plane is, look at the tripod mount point under the camera. For Nikons, it is usually 45mm from the image plane to the lens mount.

If the distance is quoted as 11" (roughly 0.30m or 300mm) and the lens is 6" (roughly 0.15m or 150mm) long, add 45mm (150+45=195mm) take away 195 from 300 for distance from front of lens, so 300 - 195 = 105mm (roughly 4.1"). The subject will be 4” or 105mm from the front of the lens ( the working distance ).

Click to expand...

--
Mike

http://www.flickr.com/photos/95274920@N00/

I shoot a lot of flowers. I use the Tamron 90 but also enjoy using the Nikkor 60 very much. With flowers outdoors, there are sometimes insects and it is often preferable to get the insect in the shot. The Tamron 90, with its longer working distance, makes getting the insect in the shot easier.

This image was taken with the D50 and the Tamron 90 and then cropped. Originally, the flower was the subject but flies can be hard to shoot and so I made it the subject of the photo. I don't know that I could have gotten the shot with the Nikkor 60 because I would have had to get too close.

Also, since the shot was taken at 1/1000s, VR would not have been much of a benefit but it surely is at lower, handheld shutter speeds. You won't go wrong with whatever you choose. All good lenses.

http://www.dpreview.com/galleries/8943369663/photos/206196/290121133_fly-5955

Chance13 said:

I know the topic of macro lenses has been covered a thousand times, but as a beginner i have no clue what yall are talking about half the time. (1:1 1:3 11" working distance etc.....)

Im def. a beginner so all information is welcome to help me learn what im doing. With all the flowers about to bloom im looking to walk around and take closeups of flowers. I currently have the kit 18-105, the 35mm f1.8 DX, and the 70-300 f/4. None of which let me really get in there close to the flower and focus very well. Im told macro involves tripods, slides and flashes, so ill just call what I want to do Close Up photography, because the setup of all that seems like a ton of work if im out walking around a garden or something like that. I dont have a way to try them out before I buy something, so im just kinda going on yalls opinions. In a nutshell im just wanting to walk around and take handheld closeups of flowers.... I think that can describe it best, and maybe one day ill move to the whole tripod setup.

What would be a good lens to start off learning my way around close up pictures? Im looking around the $500 price rance so that puts me with the:

Nikon AF-S DX Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/3.5G ED VR Lens
Nikon AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D Lens
Sigma Telephoto 70mm f/2.8 EX DG Macro Autofocus Lens
Tamron SP AF90mm f/2.8 Di 1:1 Macro Lens
Tokina Telephoto 100mm f/2.8 AT-X M100 AF Pro D Macro Autofocus Lens

If yall need more information on what im looking for so yall can help me out better just ask and ill be here lurking like normal.....

And as normal..... Thanks guys!

Click to expand...

--
OK, not so purely a hobby.

Chance13 said:

Im told macro involves tripods, slides and flashes, so ill just call what I want to do Close Up photography, because the setup of all that seems like a ton of work if im out walking around a garden or something like that.

Click to expand...

Everyone already did a good job answering your questions, so I'll just add that I never use a tripod or focus rail while out chasing little critters in the garden, but I usually shoot "Close Up", as you want to do, rather than having a bugs eye filling up the frame.

Not using that equipment gives me much better mobility, but of course I also get a lot of shots with missed focus and motion blur. The easy solution is just shoot a lot of pictures ;-)
Tamron SP Di 90mmi:









--
Patco
A photograph is more than a bunch of pixels

--
OK, not so purely a hobby.

You worked some magic with the lens.
--
OK, not so purely a hobby.

Thank you very much!

I've seen a lot of other shots by others on these forums I'd call magic before mine, though

winparkman said:

You worked some magic with the lens.
--
OK, not so purely a hobby.

Click to expand...

--
Patco
A photograph is more than a bunch of pixels

You would have seen the identical definition of focus distance. It is NOT the same as working distance. Working distance is the distance you have to work with in front of the camera. The published working distance is usually from the front of the lens but, if you put a hood on or use a ringlight or R1 kit, it uses up some of the space between the front of the lens and the subject.
--
WSSA* 51 as bg5700
EXIF is embedded in photos
Zenfolio site - http://www.puntagordanaturally.com
RF Stock Portfolio - http://www.dreamstime.com/resp129611

Thank yall for all the awesome info!!! Ive learned alot just from yalls replies. Do you think its worth my time to try a close up filter before i just go out and buy a macro lens or will the results just be terrible and steer me away from Macro stuff?

Ill be looking to get the SB-29 for my sb400 for some extra light if i need it. Im looking toward the Nikkor 85mm, the Tamron 90 or the Tonika 100 to give myself some extra working distance for more natural light. Just curious if i should try a close up filter first to see if i even like shooting close up, which im pretty sure i will, since i like the work you guys have shown me and it changes it up from the normal stuff I shoot which is just general walk around stuff.... http://www.flickr.com/photos/calexan/

As for the 85mm i dont know if id ever move to an FX so thats not really pushing me away from it, just dont really like that f3.5. I know i wont be shooting close ups at that app, but if i ever needed a portrait lens with some range, it seems kinda slow.

My first shot using my D90 and the Tokina 100mm f2.8 AT-X Pro D

The good ones have two elements and aren't cheap. The Canon 250 and 500 and the Nikon 4T, 5T, 6T are not cheap but do a good job.

They are a potential solution but, the cheap sets on EBAY are usually single element and do have an impact on IQ.

I had a decent set for my Mamiay 645 which was useful for occasional use and not to difficult to lug about in the camera bag.

If you are just gauging your interest long term in Macro, they might be a good solution. If you plan on moving ahead with it there are better uses for the money like focus rails/stages and lighting gear.
--
WSSA* 51 as bg5700
EXIF is embedded in photos
Zenfolio site - http://www.puntagordanaturally.com
RF Stock Portfolio - http://www.dreamstime.com/resp129611