And your point is?
okay, I'm getting ready... but...
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okay, I'm getting ready... but...
For the longest time I had only a Tokina ATX 28-70 f/2.6-2.8 for my
Nikon N70. I still use this as a prime lens on my new D100. It
seems to me that some of the suggestions in this thread have been
for relatively slow lenses.
I now have the Tokina 28-70, Nikon 70-300 f/4-5.6G. I need to get a
Nikkor 17-35 f/2.8 and a Nikkor 50 f/1.4 to complete the set.
--Dave
--okay, I'm getting ready... but...
Right now I can get only afford one lens.
Which lens do you all recommed?
The lens will be used on a D100.
I like to photograph landscapes and nature and always use a tripod.
I figure I will replace this lens eventually but it might be three
or four years till then. I'm looking in the $350-$650 range. I want
to blow up, frame, hang and display (maybe sell but don't we all)
my photos.
Thanks
Mark
Dave
[email protected]
http://www.dchung.com
Hi John,Joe,
What method do you use to convert your images to black and white?
John
In four years you'll have to replace the D100 too.I figure I will replace this lens eventually but it might be three
or four years till then. I'm looking in the $350-$650 range.
If you can't afford more than one inexpensive peice of glass, you
should consider another camera. You may have overlooked all the
other items you will need or want.
Memory cards can bemore expensive than lenses and you need more
than one or two.
Computer - needs to be better than you might have today
Batteries, foolish to use only one, you need a second
Camera bags - most use more than one
tripod, need a decent one to hold this much weight
Filters - another expense
Software, you won't get the results with what comes with the
camera. Count on spending $500 more
You probably don't have the experience or skill set for the D100
yet.
You would be better suited to a high end P&S like the CP5000 or
CP5700. Almost eerything you need is in the box, it's half the
price and you can afford to add extra batteries, lens attachments,
etc for way less than the cost of the D100 and it's toys
My 2 cents worth.
DBK
I've loaded some samples at
http://www.pbase.com/a5m/tokina_28200_xr that were taken with a
Tokina 28-200 XR lens. I got it to try since it's small. Over all,
I like it. It's faster focusing than my VR and it's easy to hold
steady since it balances well on both my D1H and the D100. I also
like the Tamron 24-135 SP.
![]()
How about the 28-200mm?You can't go wrong with the Nikon 28-105mm. It's a great all-around
lens, and is on my D100 95% of the time. It's even pretty good for
macro work.
Mark
--Thanks to everyone who commented.
I've decided on the 24-85mm 3.5/4.5G AF-S.
Also, I was just at a friends house and he has a Nikon 70-210mm
4/5.6 AF lens he want to sell me for $175
Thanks again,
Mark
--Thanks to everyone who commented.
I've decided on the 24-85mm 3.5/4.5G AF-S.
Also, I was just at a friends house and he has a Nikon 70-210mm
4/5.6 AF lens he want to sell me for $175
Thanks again,
Mark
Dan Hammontree
http://www.danhammontree.com
It's amazing how a "two thousand" dollar camera ends up costing four thousand dollars, isn't it?Budget $3,500-4,000 right off the bat.
You have been warned.
--Thanks to everyone who commented.
I've decided on the 24-85mm 3.5/4.5G AF-S.
Also, I was just at a friends house and he has a Nikon 70-210mm
4/5.6 AF lens he want to sell me for $175
Thanks again,
Mark
--How about the 28-200mm?You can't go wrong with the Nikon 28-105mm. It's a great all-around
lens, and is on my D100 95% of the time. It's even pretty good for
macro work.
Mark
I'll be getting two lenses. The 24-85mm and the 70-210mm, used from a friend for $110.So, Mark, did you buy two lenses or just the one? Couldn't tell
from the posts.
Hi John,Joe,
What method do you use to convert your images to black and white?
John
I shoot in NEF 90% of the time, so I make sure my exposure is good
to go in Bibble. I like a higher contrast image usually, with the
exception of an occasional medium to high key image (like the eye.)
I bring an 8bit Tif into PS and I usually start with a simple
desaturation and I'll pull the levels a bit. This does the job for
my most of the time. I've also found that a method similar to
Fred Miranda's DRI action is very useful to expand the images
dynamic range a bit. This involves 2 images from the raw file, one
exposing for the highlights, one for the shadows, then by combining
them, I get a much nice image.
--
Regards,
Joe H.
PPA
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