John Kirby
Member
Can any users of the GF1 and the LX3 tell me if it's possible to capture RAW plus a Jpeg at the same time, or is this feature something you only find with DSLRs?
Thanks.
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John Kirby
Thanks.
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John Kirby
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Simultaneous RAW + Jpeg on GF1 & LX3?
- Thread starter John Kirby
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JortS29
Senior Member
Every Panasonic from the past few years that supports RAW, allows you to shoot RAW+Jpeg too, as far as I know. The cameras you mentioned in any case.
Regards,
Jort
John Kirby
Member
Thanks, Jort; do you happen to know if there are size options with the jpegs (L,M,S, etc.) with the dual capture or is there just the one fixed size?
John.
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John Kirby
John.
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John Kirby
kernow
Forum Pro
If it is like my Panasonic models you can adjust the size and quality of the JPEG.
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Oll an gwella,
Jim
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Oll an gwella,
Jim
danielsonkin
Forum Pro
On the LX3 you can set to Std JPG, Fine JPG, RAW, RAW + Std JPG, and RAW + Fine JPG.
Daniel
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http://danielsonkin.smugmug.com/
Daniel
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http://danielsonkin.smugmug.com/
John Kirby
Member
Thanks everyone for your information. I'm making camera recommendations to someone who wants to get big prints from travel shots, so I'm obviously saying shoot RAW. But I want him to have the capability of being able to email home/post on the web progress shots of his trip, so the need for a Jpeg is just to avoid the need for any RAW processing in transit; he'll be away for some time.
John.
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John Kirby
John.
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John Kirby
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
Yes, you can set the LX3 at least to a, say, 2 megapixel setting (in my case 16:9 ratio) with 192x1080 resolution for the jpegs and also get a full resolution RAW stored.
But for big prints a clean jpeg works fine. Just use maximum resolution fine jpegs and set Noise Reduction to minus 2 to retain detail and stop smearing, and set Sharpness to minus 2 to yield clean images with no edge halos. That way the image can be carefully resharpened in post process and will print just fine at large sizes. Using that jpeg setting there seems to be no advantage in using RAW, particularly nice to avoid the extra storage needed if on a long trip.
For the LX3 stick in the ISO 80-200 range and the camera works just fine in P mode at f/2 if it needs to. Avoid f/5.6 and f/8 if after best quality as diffraction starts to set in then for the LX3.
The LX3 works fine for travel, very convenient in a belt pouch. But of course the user must be able to be happy with the 24-60mm equivalent zoom.The only add-on that I recommend is a BoxWave anti-glare filter for the LCD.
Regards......... Guy
LX3 info.... http://homepages.tig.com.au/~parsog/panasonic/01-intro.html
John Kirby
Member
Thanks Guy,
How effective are those anti-glare screens? Being a long-time 35mm film then DSLR user myself, the lack of a viewfinder is anathema to me, especially in bright light. Holding the camera out in front, as you must, doesn't help holding it steady either.
I was going to recommend getting a hot-shoe optical finder, such as the Voigtlander to cope with those situations, but they're not cheap especially for the number of times you'd need to use it.
Whilst I would imagine the camera brilliant for landscapes and the wide end of things, the 60mm is indeed a major drawback as a general travel camera; not much opportunity of candid portrait/ lifestyle shots.
John.
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John Kirby
How effective are those anti-glare screens? Being a long-time 35mm film then DSLR user myself, the lack of a viewfinder is anathema to me, especially in bright light. Holding the camera out in front, as you must, doesn't help holding it steady either.
I was going to recommend getting a hot-shoe optical finder, such as the Voigtlander to cope with those situations, but they're not cheap especially for the number of times you'd need to use it.
Whilst I would imagine the camera brilliant for landscapes and the wide end of things, the 60mm is indeed a major drawback as a general travel camera; not much opportunity of candid portrait/ lifestyle shots.
John.
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John Kirby
Strange, I regularly need to compensate exposure on mine. I thought that it was in iA mode that the camera made decisions about correcting exposure. Does it do more decision making than just 18% in P mode? Do I have a setting wrong?
One method for steadier shooting holding the camera one-handed is to install the neckstrap and hold the camera in front of you with the neckstrap fully tensioned and taught against your neck muscles. I have a long arm and can hold it with my elbow bent in this way and it seems to work well for me.
You are right in saying that they are expensive for what they are.
For most travel photography the 60mm equivalent upper zoom limit is not really an obstacle. You can always crop a good image in post processing to zoom in further, or dare I say it perhaps use your feet!
The 24mm equivalent wide end of the lens is far more important than the perceived lack of telephoto capability. If your friend needs that long zoom perhaps she/he should consider a camera such as the TZ7/ZS3?
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
Exposure compensation in P mode goes without saying. It's something that always needs to be done with any camera that I've come across. My cameras seem to live mostly at minus 0.33EV. Sometimes going as far as maybe minus 2 EV in odd conditions, or maybe plus 2 if it ever snowed here in Sydney. Don't know about iA mode as I never use it.
Best to set the LX3 to flashing highlight on review and the 2 second review after shooting is enough to see if things are on track, easier than inspecting histograms and you see which areas may be sacrificed.
Regards............ Guy
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
Quite good, the Panasonic use of LCD screens that are highly reflective is a pain, this dampens that effect and makes them usable. The alternative is Gary's ClearViewer but that does add a little bulk.
Well, it's not really an arm's length thing that many people seem to rave on about. The camera is about maybe about 8" to 10" from the face and the elbows can be easily held to the sides for steadiness. But most times the Mode 2 OIS does what you need, 1/8 sec at 24mm is easily attainable.
I see them as a cumbersome idea. Easier to look at an LCD and not hide your face from the subjects and it also enables you to look over the camera and see potential intrusions that would be out of frame if peering though a viewfinder. I've used LCDs so much now that using the DSLR and viewfinder feels totally unnatural to me.
Yes, 24-60mm needs a rethink of the way you look at things. Great to fit building and street scenes and markets etc and interiors, but picking off people from a distance is not available, you need to get close and personal and involve the subject. I do carry a small camera with more telephoto available but only very rarely use it.
Before the LX3 my 95% used lens was the 11-22mm lens (22-44mm equivalent) on my Oly DSLR, that was good training for the slightly expanded zoom of the LX3.
Regards........... Guy
Perhaps yours in mainly minus because you're fortunate enought to live in such a lovely climate? I wonder how much inter-camera difference there is from batch to batch with a camera like the LX3?
Fred K
Forum Enthusiast
You can do this on both LX3 and GF1.
Guy, there is an incoherency within the above text. 8-10" in front of the face in no way improves peripheral vision or eye contact with a subject. It severely impedes it. No?
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
Well it may depend on your glasses prescription but that around 10" distance works fine. Usually the camera is in a lower position than when holding to the forehead so you actually look over the camera to the scene and then check the framing on the LCD. I sort of see both the LCD and the real scene together.
Usually the shutter speeds are normal and the camera can be held anywhere. That is high up over the heads in front and you can still see the LCD at an odd angle but enough to frame, or hold the camera down low near waist level and ditto can still see to frame. The 10" view distance does only really hold true for when the camera is near face level.
When shutter speeds get low and there's no tripod or wall handy to steady things, the best stance is the same as it always has been.... elbows tight into body sides but now with LCD screens the camera is held automatically at a more comfortable level near chin height but out enough in front to easily see the LCD.
I shoot without thinking (most of my life is without thinking) but just then I checked my normal natural stance and the LX3 ends up at about a bit below chin level, elbows more or less close to my sides but not pressed in, forearms out at a comfortable angle to hold the camera at a normal close viewing distance and it ends up about about 10" or so away from my chin, so a bit further from my eyes. That stance is very comfortable and easy to see the scene and possible intrusions, and more importantly does not hide your face from the subjects.
My LX3 is silenced so no sounds at all when a shot is taken and people are unaware of what is happening and when it happens.
Now when I go to use my old Oly DSLR it feels totally unnatural to hold the darn thing against my forehead, it's not a comfortable stance at all for me now that I've been retrained to the more natural LCD use.
It's what you get used to of course but after nearly 50 years of eyepiece viewing I am really happy to be freed up from a head held camera to a free stance camera like the LX3. It's like using my old KowaSix 6x6cm film camera in the old days - you held it usually a bit above waist level in that case to see its view screen. Those old view screens were a comfortable break from the in-your-face 35mm film SLRs.
Manufacturers need to get their act together and make a better LCD that is easier to see in direct sunlight, maybe the OLED style eventually will solve that one. It is definitely worth persevering with LCD viewing as it frees up the ways that you can hold the camera, just like the old medium format view screens (but now on the LCD the scene is the correct way left to right).
Regards........ Guy
Guy Parsons
Forum Pro
No, the minus 0.33EV for the LX3 was really established on my Japan trip where the pollution and skies look about the same as UK, but that adjust still holds true for Aussie conditions.
I go by the flashing highlights on review and at minus 0.33EV there's still always some little bits that are nearly always sacrificed.
All the cameras in the house over the years have responded better to a basic setting of minus 0.33EV, Olympus compacts and DSLR, Pentax compact, Casio compacts, Ricoh compacts and now Panasonic LX3. In fact I used to use Fuji Sensia 100 slide film in my Nikons and guess what, they were always at 125 ISO = sort of minus 0.33EV for best results.
Regards............ Guy
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