Hobbiecolors ink, Spyder3 profiles - issues.

My concern now that I think about it more is that no one knows how much OEM ink was left in each used cartridge.
There is a significant amount of ink left in the sponges of the Canon cartridges eve after they are declared empty. You can flush most of it out by filling the cartridge with the new ink, and squeezing the sides (while covering the top vent); repeat a few times.
Yes, I have run quite a lot of ink throught them so far for the testing. I do tape off the vent and squeeze them for 10 drops at each refill. I just read a nice article about back flushing but will try that some other month!
However, I don't think ink contamination was the cause of the problem, as you have been getting consistent results. With all the testing you've been doing, I would expect the residual ink to have been used up.

Not sure why Dave recommends against his own cartridges. I have used the Hobbicolors BCI-6 cartridges (with a screw plug) and find them to work well.
Xilvar above has offered to run a profile for me. That is a good idea to see if my problem is just a profiling issue on my part of the Spyder system. I will load the new empty HC cartridges for this profile to have virgin ink for the best shot at getting a great profile from him.
 
Petruska

A website you should go to is http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/ . They are the most through and complete forum on ink refill and printers. Your question on flushing will be answered there and instructions from several sources will guide you thru the process. What knowledge you can gain at nifty-stuff along with this website will go a long way to a pretty complete knowledge of basic inkjet printing.
--
David Brady

Critiques of my images are always welcome



My Gallery: http://dbrady.zenfolio.com/
 
Petruska

A website you should go to is http://www.nifty-stuff.com/forum/ . They are the most through and complete forum on ink refill and printers. Your question on flushing will be answered there and instructions from several sources will guide you thru the process. What knowledge you can gain at nifty-stuff along with this website will go a long way to a pretty complete knowledge of basic inkjet printing.
--
David Brady
Dave, thanks for the link. I have read the site many times in the past and yes it is a great site. That's where I found the flushing technique of attaching tubing to the output port and reverse flushing the cartridge. I like what I saw but I also like to engineer a nice system to perform it with ease. In March I will do that!

Thanks again,

Bob P.
 
Bob,

I forward flush my empty Canon cartridges. I remove the small plastic ball and have a metal tube that fits tight into that hole with some plastic tubing that connects to a faucet adapter. Somewhere on the Inkjet Forum are the details of my method. Some have disputed my method saying there could be a buildup of ink in the outlet hole, but I have never had a problem with this method - been using it for several years now. Actually think it might be better in that the water flow is not trying to push the sponge back from the outlet hole as it does with the back flush method. Had that happen to me with two of the larger PGI-5 cartridges and bumping them as suggested didn't work. My forward flush is easier and less messy (not trying to fit a tube on the outlet port tiny flange) but I still wear plastic gloves. Works for me.

Steve W.

PS: We sure are having another monster snow storm right on top of last weekend's almost 2 footer.
 
Somewhere on the Inkjet Forum are the details of my method. Some have disputed my method saying there could be a buildup of ink in the outlet hole, but I have never had a problem with this method - been using it for several years now. Actually think it might be better in that the water flow is not trying to push the sponge back from the outlet hole as it does with the back flush method.
I haven't tried the forward flushing, but do agree that back flushing may push the sponge back, which would prevent a good contact with the print head when inserted.

In either case, I am not quite sure how one removes the water that would remain in the cartridge. Even though it won't "react" with the ink, it will dilute the ink and throw off the colour balance.
 
In either case, I am not quite sure how one removes the water that would remain in the cartridge. Even though it won't "react" with the ink, it will dilute the ink and throw off the colour balance.
In my case I have a second tube device, very similar to the one that does the flushing, that I connect to a compressor I have. This blows out the excess water. Then I let the cartridge air dry for a few days before refilling. Actually in the case of the PG3eBK or PGBK5 cartridges (pigment ink) they seem to refill better when the sponge is still damp.

You could probably also use one of those compressed air cans by putting the nozzle extension tube into the cartridge to blow out excess water. Some even blow into the top hole and force out some of the water - it works if you have good strong lungs.

Steve W.
 
Bob,

I forward flush my empty Canon cartridges. I remove the small plastic ball and have a metal tube that fits tight into that hole with some plastic tubing that connects to a faucet adapter. Somewhere on the Inkjet Forum are the details of my method. Some have disputed my method saying there could be a buildup of ink in the outlet hole, but I have never had a problem with this method - been using it for several years now. Actually think it might be better in that the water flow is not trying to push the sponge back from the outlet hole as it does with the back flush method. Had that happen to me with two of the larger PGI-5 cartridges and bumping them as suggested didn't work. My forward flush is easier and less messy (not trying to fit a tube on the outlet port tiny flange) but I still wear plastic gloves. Works for me.

Steve W.

PS: We sure are having another monster snow storm right on top of last weekend's almost 2 footer.
On the snow I do have over 24" right now. I love the bad winters as it gives me all the time in the world play with refilling and profiling!

I'm using BCI-6 and CLI-8 cartridges. What plastic ball? To forward flush another hole would need to be drilled over the sponge to forward flush, can be done. I agree that the forward flush would keep the sponge in the proper position. I will play with this in due time.
 
Somewhere on the Inkjet Forum are the details of my method. Some have disputed my method saying there could be a buildup of ink in the outlet hole, but I have never had a problem with this method - been using it for several years now. Actually think it might be better in that the water flow is not trying to push the sponge back from the outlet hole as it does with the back flush method.
I haven't tried the forward flushing, but do agree that back flushing may push the sponge back, which would prevent a good contact with the print head when inserted.

In either case, I am not quite sure how one removes the water that would remain in the cartridge. Even though it won't "react" with the ink, it will dilute the ink and throw off the colour balance.
http://www.nifty-stuff.com/canon-BCI-6-cartridges.php

I read this back flush method and he used a shop vac to remove most of the water. Plus the shop vac pulls the sponge forward towards the outlet hole. I have an oil furnance that is quite warm to lay the cartridges on to finish off the drying for a few days.
 
I'm using BCI-6 and CLI-8 cartridges. What plastic ball? To forward flush another hole would need to be drilled over the sponge to forward flush, can be done. I agree that the forward flush would keep the sponge in the proper position. I will play with this in due time.

Bob,

The plastic ball I am referring to is over the spongeless chamber - you will see a WHITE circle with the word PUSH in it. Under there is the plastic ball. Peal off part of the tape seal to expose the ball. I use a small diameter drill to put a small hole in the ball - not all the way through. Use a small eyelet screw and pull the ball out. That hole is where I flush through. Used to fill through there until I finally tried the so-called German refill method. I seal the hole with a #8-32 Flat Head machine screw. I found some 3/8" long Stainless Steel screws on E-Bay. I would not recommend drilling a hole over the sponge chamber. There is a vent maze over that area that you don't want to mess with - make sure the tape remains covering that area. Might sound difficult but after one or two you get the hang of it.

Snow is finally slowing down around here but it will be days until the roads are passable. On Monday I ordered some Red River paper. It is hung up in the weather somewhere between TX and here in PA. Don't know when I will finally get it.

Steve W.
 
wow! you guys sure go to quite the lengths to avoid the refillable carts. theyre really that bad? the ones i have on my epson 2200 and 7800 have happily performed for me over the years. i guess not so much to do with all that snow around?

xilvar
I'm using BCI-6 and CLI-8 cartridges. What plastic ball? To forward flush another hole would need to be drilled over the sponge to forward flush, can be done. I agree that the forward flush would keep the sponge in the proper position. I will play with this in due time.

Bob,

The plastic ball I am referring to is over the spongeless chamber - you will see a WHITE circle with the word PUSH in it. Under there is the plastic ball. Peal off part of the tape seal to expose the ball. I use a small diameter drill to put a small hole in the ball - not all the way through. Use a small eyelet screw and pull the ball out. That hole is where I flush through. Used to fill through there until I finally tried the so-called German refill method. I seal the hole with a #8-32 Flat Head machine screw. I found some 3/8" long Stainless Steel screws on E-Bay. I would not recommend drilling a hole over the sponge chamber. There is a vent maze over that area that you don't want to mess with - make sure the tape remains covering that area. Might sound difficult but after one or two you get the hang of it.

Snow is finally slowing down around here but it will be days until the roads are passable. On Monday I ordered some Red River paper. It is hung up in the weather somewhere between TX and here in PA. Don't know when I will finally get it.

Steve W.
 
wow! you guys sure go to quite the lengths to avoid the refillable carts. theyre really that bad? the ones i have on my epson 2200 and 7800 have happily performed for me over the years. i guess not so much to do with all that snow around?
Many of us Canon refillers prefer the Canon OEM cartridge mainly because of the two layer sponge design. The ink flow with that design seems better. I don't think Epson cartridges have a sponge, so a good quality off-brand cartridge should work the same as the OEM. Several Canon refillables require you to transfer a chip from a Canon cartridge - or have chips that are not compatible with some of the chip resetters. Actually flushing and reusing Canon OEMs isn't as difficult a chore as the directions seem to imply. As I said - after doing one or two the job is a piece of cake!!

Steve W.
 
Hi Bob

I made a call and received some Kodak Ultra Premium Photo paper for testing. Really nice finish and it can take a full load of ink without bleeding. The paper does swell quite a bit and is wavy until dry but it is still dry to the touch as soon as it comes out of the printer. I read the target five minutes after printing and the resulting profile is pretty much what I'd expect from a gloss paper. I'll read it again after 24 hours or so and compare the results and let you know if there is any color shift.

My initial impression is very positive for a gloss stock. I will still do most of my printing on mat paper but will probably buy some for RGB black and white prints.

I'll be checking the test print at work for gray balance, metamerism and density readings and will give a follow up on that as well.
So far I can't fault this paper.
Bob
 
Hi Bob

I made a call and received some Kodak Ultra Premium Photo paper for testing. Really nice finish and it can take a full load of ink without bleeding. The paper does swell quite a bit and is wavy until dry but it is still dry to the touch as soon as it comes out of the printer. I read the target five minutes after printing and the resulting profile is pretty much what I'd expect from a gloss paper. I'll read it again after 24 hours or so and compare the results and let you know if there is any color shift.

My initial impression is very positive for a gloss stock. I will still do most of my printing on mat paper but will probably buy some for RGB black and white prints.

I'll be checking the test print at work for gray balance, metamerism and density readings and will give a follow up on that as well.
So far I can't fault this paper.
Bob
Bob, I'm glad that you got to try the Ultra. I too thought that it was a nice paper at about 75 sheets of 8.5x11, or 200 4x6, same price of $20 at Sam's Club. The fast dry was what really turned me on to this paper. Prior to Ultra I was using Kodak's Ultima and that took 24 hrs. to dry. I still have about 300-400 sheets of Ultima (I must stop going to Sam's) Kodak stopped the Ultima and then brought out the Ultra which I immediately liked.

I noticed that the Ultra also curled with HC inks, not much so with Canon OEM inks.

Also I just printed a few minutes ago using HC inks on Ultra, Ultima, Canon Platinum, and Red River Artic Polar Luster. During printing the Ultra and RR APL were odorless, the Ultima odor was high, and with the Platinum I needed to leave the room! Now that indicates a lot of ink/paper chemistry is going on.

Yes, please keep me informed on the gray balance.

Bob P.
 
Hi Bob

I just finished a short test with the Kodak Ultra. I think I just may have found a new favorite gloss paper while printing this stock.
I'm using OCP brand dye ink in a epson 4800 printer.
I created a custom profile using Profilemaker 5 and a i1iO.

This paper has some OB's in it but it is more of a warm white, and the spectral data shows a very flat spectrum. In other words it has no blue spikes that you would see in a bright blue white sheet. The finish is high gloss but not a mirror finish and holds that gloss very well when printed.

One of the most unexpected characteristic features of the paper is the very low gloss differential (as in none). I've seen high end proofing paper that does not have as low of a gloss differential that this stock has, it just blew me a way. I've been mixing my light colors with a gloss base trying to get zero gloss differential in various gloss papers and have gotten pretty close with RR and inkpress. But using my best mix with this sheet and there is absolutely zero gloss differential.

The dMax of this sheet is high at about 1.987. Anything over 1.8 is gravy for me.

Gray balance is one of the most neutral I've profiled due to the fact the sheet is pretty neutral. Visually the gray balance is a bit on the warm side due to the paper color.

Profiling the paper was normal. Comparing two reads of the target, one within 15 minutes of printing and another at 24 hours after printing, Showed a maximum of 3 deltaE and an average of .4 delta. The variance was in less than a dozen colors which were mostly dark shadow type colors. Examining two printed files (Bob Atkins Lab test image) and I really couldn't see any difference between the 15 minute and the 24 hour profiles.

Printing a RGB black and white image was very nice. No gloss differential made the contrast and shades of gray very smooth with no distractions.

So in the end I can find no fault with this sheet and really can't see why the spider is having problems profiling it. But two things come to mind that might be giving you the results you have. The Kodak paper does have OB's in it, but at very low levels so maybe the software is over compensating for that. And then of course the next would be my initial impression is the ink is not gray balanced.
Thanks for the lead on the paper. I love it.
Bob
 
Hi Bob

I just finished a short test with the Kodak Ultra. I think I just may have found a new favorite gloss paper while printing this stock.
I'm using OCP brand dye ink in a epson 4800 printer.
I created a custom profile using Profilemaker 5 and a i1iO.

This paper has some OB's in it but it is more of a warm white, and the spectral data shows a very flat spectrum. In other words it has no blue spikes that you would see in a bright blue white sheet. The finish is high gloss but not a mirror finish and holds that gloss very well when printed.

One of the most unexpected characteristic features of the paper is the very low gloss differential (as in none). I've seen high end proofing paper that does not have as low of a gloss differential that this stock has, it just blew me a way. I've been mixing my light colors with a gloss base trying to get zero gloss differential in various gloss papers and have gotten pretty close with RR and inkpress. But using my best mix with this sheet and there is absolutely zero gloss differential.

The dMax of this sheet is high at about 1.987. Anything over 1.8 is gravy for me.

Gray balance is one of the most neutral I've profiled due to the fact the sheet is pretty neutral. Visually the gray balance is a bit on the warm side due to the paper color.

Profiling the paper was normal. Comparing two reads of the target, one within 15 minutes of printing and another at 24 hours after printing, Showed a maximum of 3 deltaE and an average of .4 delta. The variance was in less than a dozen colors which were mostly dark shadow type colors. Examining two printed files (Bob Atkins Lab test image) and I really couldn't see any difference between the 15 minute and the 24 hour profiles.

Printing a RGB black and white image was very nice. No gloss differential made the contrast and shades of gray very smooth with no distractions.

So in the end I can find no fault with this sheet and really can't see why the spider is having problems profiling it. But two things come to mind that might be giving you the results you have. The Kodak paper does have OB's in it, but at very low levels so maybe the software is over compensating for that. And then of course the next would be my initial impression is the ink is not gray balanced.
Thanks for the lead on the paper. I love it.
Bob
Bob,

Thanks for performing the test. It does prove a fact that the Ultra paper is fine indeed, not matter what printer and inks are used.

You are using pigmented inks, how would that compare to dye based which I'm using? Would the expected gray scale linearity results be the same?

To go backwards a little here, I had no problems with print quailty, including gray scale, using the Ultra along with the Canon OEM inks and using the standard Canon driver. When I attempted to use the Spyder3Print system on the same Ultra and OEM inks I did not have good results. I spent over 2 weeks one on one with Datacolor's people and forum members trying to reproduce the Canon driver IQ results. The Spyder was giving me less gamut in the prints and it was very noticeable with fine details missing. It was hard to believe that the Spyder profiles were so lacking. It was suggested that I use the 225 patches for the profiles and all discussion was centered around that profile. On my own I decided to do the 729 patches and BINGO, the profile was as good as the Canon standard driver and had the the same gamut and details. I was a little shocked that the Datacolor people never suggested to try the 729 patches as it would have saved a lot of time and discussions. I also suggested that I send them my printed targets and printed photos to see if my Spyder colorimeter was not fuctioning properly but they never accepted that suggestion.

I do have some faith in the Spyder3, from what I achieved with the OEM inks and Ultra paper. Xilvar, above is going to generate profiles for me using a few thousand patches on his high priced system. That will prove if my problem is the Spyder or not.

I'm like you though pointing towards the fact that my gray scale problem is the HC inks. If it is the inks then I will try some MIS inks, I know that their Epson refill ink is IS brand, but not so sure if the Canon refill is IS? I'm going to send them an email to find out.

Seeing that you like the Ultra paper, if you go online various vendors are selling 50 sheets of 8.5x11 for approx. $27, even Sam's Club lists it online for 25 sheets at $20. I buy 65 sheets 8.5x11, or 200 sheets 4x6 in the Sam's store for $20. I don't know why there is such a difference between the Sam's online versus Sam's in store prices, unless they meant to state 65 sheets for the online product.

Well now it's a wait until Xilvar receives my targets (they are in the mail PA to CA)and gets the profiles back to me before we can go any further with this post.....

Bob P.
 
Actually my ink is dye based (non OEM). I've tried many different inks over the years and just like the way dye prints both in detail and color gamut.

The target you use does make a difference and I've use everything from 400 to 5000 and I keep coming back to 700 to 800 for RGB and 1600 for CMYK. It seems that my prints do not reflect a big increase above a certain number of patches. Something that I do pay attention to is the color patches used. When I find a color zone that is not working I add that color plus one or two lighter and darker to my target. Over the last few years I have been able to fine tune my target and profile editing to give me just about the color and detail that I'm looking for. Its been a fun and enjoyable part of the hobby as I'm not the best photographer in town but given a good start I can manage a pretty good print.
This has been a good thread and I appreciate the things I have learned from it.
Best wishes to you,
Bob
 
So you use OCP dye inks and like them. I definitely respect your selection of ink knowing that you are like me a so-so photographer but looking for perfection with printouts!

I see that they offer the Canon CLI-8 compatible CLI-8 ink at $12-14 per 16oz bottles which looks like very good prices.

I'm going to try these over the IS inks for my next go at refill/profile tests.
 
I appreciate your offer on generating a profile for the Kodak Ultra paper using Hobbiecolors ink. It looks very important at this point to have another profile generated by a different system to eliminate any error of the Spyder3Print profiling system.
Any updates on this comparison?
There is a slight probblem generating the scans. I sent the targets to Xilvar last week and he received them. Unfortunately the little alignment dots on one side of each sheet are mssing due to the fact that the Canon I950 has 0.250 inch margins and cut some of the dots off. Reducing the print size to show the dots also reduces the patch sizes which would affect scanning. He is going to try and cut the paper edges with dots from some sheets and attach them to hopefully allow the scanning to function properly. We haven't given up yet!

Bob P.
 

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