What the ZS3 can do in *low* light

Indeed, agree that it is not primarily the camera. Though the camera does make some difference, I find that MOST cameras today are adequate for most situations if one knows how to use the tool and will print normally full page sizes. I'm not longer pixel peeping a whole lot. There's a lot more that goes into the emotional impact of a photo which is one reason why I'm probably replacing one of my Panasonic digicams with the Sony HX5 when it comes out. Still keeping the Panny LX3.

MTMT
 
Your shots are quite good, the iso's look really clean too. I've seen some others compare the ZS3 to other small cams and their ZS3 shots didn't seem so clean, are you getting those nice shots with a high percentage of 'snaps' or do you adjust and take some test shots until things 'get right'?

Also, you don't happen to have any samples of mid isos, like 400 or 800 in full sized out of cam do you?

Great shots as always!

--
Photography shots
http://www.flickr.com/photos/invisodude/

Snap shots
http://s618.photobucket.com/albums/tt266/randsphoto/
 
Very nice...incidentally, I never use the scene modes. I always shoot in Auto (not iA) without a flash, and set the ISo to 1600 max. The camera does it's thing beautifully. Most recent (again, all handheld, all in Auto):
RonAnn,

When the camera is set to Auto, it doesn't choose the ISO. Only when you shoot in iA does the camera set the ISO.

So I take it that you are manually setting the ISO, while the camera does the rest? I understand that you set the ISO to 1600 max, but you make it sound like the camera is changing the ISO to suit the scene.

--StevenN
 
I am not sure that's true.

In Auto Mode (not IA), you have the choice (Via the quick menu) between Auto ISO were it will choose the ISO, or a fixed ISO value.
 
I am not sure that's true.

In Auto Mode (not IA), you have the choice (Via the quick menu) between Auto ISO were it will choose the ISO, or a fixed ISO value.
Thanks, scrambler, I did not know that. I should read the manual more carefully!

--StevenN
 
And another good thing to be aware of is that one can set a "maximum iso" that the camera will not exceed while in auto iso mode. That is what was being referred to above. The person set the maximum iso to 1600 but was using Auto ISO. However even when 1600 is allowed as the maximum setting, the camera will rarely select that high of an ISO setting while in Auto ISO.
--
Peter
 
Exactly correct.

On the ZS3, there is very little difference between A and iA, which is why I set my A to always have flash off, and take all photos in A.

The ZS3 is, by design, created to take excellent photos out of the camera with no input necessary from the user to change any settings.

By setting the ISO to 1600 max, it allows the camera, if necessary, to pick 1600 ISO automatically if that is ever needed. It usually selects between 200 - 400 for most shots.
 
Your shots are quite good, the iso's look really clean too. I've seen some others compare the ZS3 to other small cams and their ZS3 shots didn't seem so clean, are you getting those nice shots with a high percentage of 'snaps' or do you adjust and take some test shots until things 'get right'?
.

You don't quote anyone so I'm not sure whether you're addressing me or someone else.

Assuming it's me, then first of all thanks for your appreciation and re your question, yes, I usually do several shots for any given photographic opportunity, say about 4 or 5 ( "better safe than sorry" ) but matter of fact, usually all of them come out right so the percentage is close to 100% and no test shots plus subsequent adjustments (i.e., "trial and error") are necessary.
Also, you don't happen to have any samples of mid isos, like 400 or 800 in full sized out of cam do you?
Yes, I do. There are a number of them at my Flickr pages (link below, in my signature) but only resized versions from 900 up to 1280 pixels wide can be downloaded, I never make full-size pics freely available on line.

If you're interested in pixel-peeping (which is a grossly useless error IMHO), tell me which images would you like to defile that way and I'll post here a number of 100% crops featuring actual pixels from them but never the full-size original pictures, sorry.

Also, in page 3 of this very thread you can find an ISO 400 , high- macro test shot I made of a group of pyrite crystals, together with a 100% crop showing real pixels, it might give you an idea of the IQ at that ISO setting.

-
See my Lumix ZS3 (TZ7) pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mirepapa/

.
 
Ron,

Just wanted to clarify, in A mode, do you set iExposure to on or off?

Btw, they are beautiful night shots.
Very nice...incidentally, I never use the scene modes. I always shoot in Auto (not iA) without a flash, and set the ISo to 1600 max. The camera does it's thing beautifully. Most recent (again, all handheld, all in Auto):
--
Madhabi
 
I have to say that I second the motion for a website, or at least a post on this forum containing a distillation of your knowledge and techniques, much as your post on this thread detailing the slow shutter choices - it was brief, and to the point. And clear .
.

Thanks a lot for your kind comment, Erik , much appreciated. I try to be as clear as possible to save time and minimize complexity but I plead guilty to being verbose at times.

.
You do have a way of cutting through the junk, and delivering clear explanations. I have been in Photography professionally and amateur for over 50 years, yet I find "Aha!" moments from time to time in your posts, much as I do in Isola Verde's posts.
.

Glad to help. And I concur about Isola Verde 's posts, many of which are both interesting and informative to all kinds of readers.

.
Perhaps you came to this forum after it was under discussion, but a year or so ago, someone working with RAW files from an FZ-18 noticed that the RAW files did have the various aberrations, but the jpeg files do not .

It turns out that on these recent Panasonic cameras, the characteristic aberrations: CA, Purple fringing, and barrel/pincushion distortion are corrected by the firmware, at all zoom ratios, in real time - "straight out of the camera" as you are fond of pointing out.
.

I'm indeed quite new to the forums, just a few months here, but I was aware beforehand than Leica's partnership with Panasonic implied that Leica would impose some definite limits on the amount of firmware corrections to be applied in cameras fitted with their lenses, which would have to be minimal (if at all) lest it would cast a shadow of suspicion, so to say, on the outstanding reputation of their lenses.

That being so, Panasonic models including Leica lenses would perform very little firmware corrections of CA, distortion, etc, if at all, while models including Lumix lenses would feature much heavier, extensive firmware corrections.

Over time, Panasonic got fed up with Leica's imposition and has decided that their Lumix lenses plus heavy firmware corrections delivers similar quality while being much cheaper and less committed so that's the way to go.

That would explain why none of the newest Panasonic models are fitted with Leica lenses and perhaps only a handful of future models will, if at all. But this is gossip town, just an educated guess on my part, who knows ...

-
See my Lumix ZS3 (TZ7) pics at http://www.flickr.com/photos/mirepapa/

.
 
I love these photos, and especially the technical detail behind them.

However, I would be interested to know the settings that some of the techxperts here ( Trensamiro, RonAnnArbor, Isola Verde etc ) are using on their ZS3.

Things such as:
ISO (Auto or Intelligent)
Min Shutter Speed (1/8?)
iExposure
Flash mode
Compression vs MP (ie. 7MP Standard or 5MP Fine? Bearing in mind SD capacity)

I started out using iA but found it would mess me around a bit on occasions choosing the wrong mode, and in particular wouldn’t recognise when a Macro shot was needed.

So on Normal mode (and iA too) one issue that came about straight away is the over eager tendency of the camera to use the flash. Even outdoors at the beach, if the subject is in the shade the flash will go, giving an unnatural appearance to the image, something I hate. Indoors and outdoors in morning light I found that the same would happen, casting the unnatural lights and colours of the flash on the image.

I found that the best way to get rid of this was set Intelligent ISO to ON, and get rid of the AutoISO setting. This means you can’t control the shutter speed, but I now find that unless it is genuinely dark, the flash won’t go off and I will get a much more natural lighting look (true to life). ISO isn’t bumped up too high, generally 100-125 so IQ is fine, and makes me wonder why the camera thinks it needs the flash in the first place.

Where light is low enough to think you would need a flash, I find the slow synch flash setting produces the best results – shutter speed slows slightly and the flash lights the image more evenly and again with better colour. BUT if there is a light source (eg a lamp in the corner) in the room, the slower shutter speed can enhance this a bit unacceptably.

I also find that the iExposure option is useful to have on. It rarely activates (goes orange) but when it does I always notice an improvement in the image.

However, I’m still not entirely convinced that I have the best settings, nor that iAuto isn’t the best option to go with.

Any tips?

Cheers,
Jeremy

(ps. It was a bit of a journey getting here from my old Panasonic LZ2, which was a great fun camera, then to the disastrous Olympus Fe-5020, the nowhere-near-as-good-as-reviews-say Canon SD880 / Ixus 870, a brief trial of the FX-35 then finally the ZS3. The features that have been packed into the ZS3 are just too good to turn up, in spite of the slightly larger size, and I am amazed at the video!)
 
OMG ... how horrible! Do you see what this camera does to people's eyes and faces? All pixelated and white boxes, etc. What a flawed camera... heh heh...
 
OMG ... how horrible! Do you see what this camera does to people's eyes and faces? All pixelated and white boxes, etc. What a flawed camera... heh heh...
Thats the "Face Destruction" feature - partner to "Face Detection".

;)

-Erik

--
DP Review Supporter.



'He who hesitates is not only lost - he's miles from the next Exit.'
http://www.flickr.com/ohlsonmh/
 
"Face Destruction." I should try it for my next self-portrait...would be an improvement.
 
The ZS3 (TZ7) just has a "knack" of making the right choices for most shots out of the camera, and is the perfect companion for those who don't want to putz with post processing. By the way, I shoot in Auto mode (not iAuto, which adds flash too many times) and I keep the flash off, unless absolutely necessary.

Shooting in Auto, by the way, except for one situation in which I needed some front lighting on a person with the eiffel tower in the background, the ZS3 has ALWAYS made the right choice automatically in-camera. When I first got it, I compared the scene mode photos with those you get with Auto, and they were virtually identical.
Hi Ron,

They are really nice shots, I think I need to go out experimenting as I'm still learning what all these settings can do.

I assume by Auto that you mean Normal Picture mode but with some Auto settings?

Within this mode, do you tend to do a lot of tweaking, or just stick to AutoISO, 1/8 min shutter speed, and Multiple/matrix metering (and keep that flash off!). Looks like in that light the min shutter speed might need to go down to 1s?

Cheers,
Jeremy
 
And another good thing to be aware of is that one can set a "maximum iso" that the camera will not exceed while in auto iso mode. That is what was being referred to above. The person set the maximum iso to 1600 but was using Auto ISO. However even when 1600 is allowed as the maximum setting, the camera will rarely select that high of an ISO setting while in Auto ISO.
By my reading, the Max Setting is only available on Intelligent ISO, and this then disables shutter speed and Auto ISO menu options. Hence you cannot actually set a maximum ISO and use Auto ISO (although I figure that you might have meant Intelligent ISO rather than Auto ISO).
By setting the ISO to 1600 max, it allows the camera, if necessary, to pick 1600 ISO automatically if that is ever needed. It usually selects between 200 - 400 for most shots.
Ah Ron, given the above, this then suggests that you would be using Intelligent ISO rather than Auto ISO in normal mode?
 
Interested in what kind of shutter speed the camera was selecting for these shots? You must have a mighty steady hand!
 
RonAnnArbor,

Great pics of Disney World. You were/are using the ZS3 correct? Do you have a link to more of your Disney shots?
 
That being so, Panasonic models including Leica lenses would perform very little firmware corrections of CA, distortion, etc, if at all, while models including Lumix lenses would feature much heavier, extensive firmware corrections.
Simply untrue.

My LX3 has a Leica branded lens...and have CA and barrel distortion correction,applied.

This is well known and documented,on various websites,starting with DPReview

"At first glance, the distortion results are stunningly low - a camera this small with a 24mm equivalent lens would be expected to produce significantly more distortion than the barely noticeable 0.6% we measured. We wouldn't be surprised to find that a lot of clever processing is going on in the background."

"The Panasonic's correction of chromatic aberration can be seen in the label of the Martini bottle, which the Canon doesn't do."

Here's a quote from the Imaging Resource review,of the FZ35:

"And while there's most likely barrel distortion at wide-angle, you don't notice any because Panasonic likes to correct such distortion in the camera (even on Raw shots, for converters that officially support the camera's RW2 images)."

Please do some reading,before making comments...that folk here,might believe.

Opinions...and facts,are two different things,as you know

So.....Panasonic camera's ,with Leica branded lenses do have CA and barrel distortion correction applied.

this is easily noticed , on all recent Panasonic camera's ,that shoot RAW.

Our ZS3 (TZ7) also has this barrel correction , and CA removal ....but there's no RAW format,to see the difference.The jpegs,in many Panasonic camera's (with Leica branded lenses),are corrected , for CA and barrel distortion.

Not my opinion,but proven facts.

Just wanted to make that clear,to the readers here,at DPReview.

ANAYV
 

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